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Введение

Is your phone not detecting your charging cable? Does your charging port feel loose? Has the microphone gone deaf? It might be time to replace your Lightning connector assembly. Use this guide to replace the Lightning connector assembly which includes the lower microphones, antenna cable, and Lightning connector.

Note that this repair does require a fair amount of disassembly, and it will require time and caution.

Видео обзор

  1. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, Pentalobe Screws: step 1, image 1 of 1
    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    Can anyone confirm 7/7P's pentalobe screws have a ring of seal near the screw head?

    Cooper Chase - Ответить

    Confirmed, the screws have a black ring seal around the head.

    rcheing - Ответить

    Can’t get the display front

    Bernadette Pfeifer - Ответить

    From personal experience, I highly recommend before doing this procedure or any other, that you do a backup of your phone (preferably local) in case your procedure goes south.

    ballina5ny - Ответить

    I purchased the repair tools with the replacement battery from iFixit. The tools include a screw driver and three heads none were labeled 3.4 mm. I think the one that fit the pentalobe screws was labeled Y000. The guide should identify the screw driver head supplied by the kit not 3.4mm.

    Mark Lieberman - Ответить

    in the iphone 7 replacement battery kit from iFixit, the screwdriver that fits the 3.4 mm pentalobe screws is labeled P2 (and not Y000)

    Jan-Tijn Oppermann -

    3.4 mm is the height of the screw and is not related to the screw driver code.

    Ahmad Vaziri -

    the screwdriver PH000 does not work i wasted two screws and now they dont have the 4 cross mark they are now a circle, i buyed it all from Paraguay and it doesnt work, had to assembly back the parts because i got stuck like i mention with some screws, well im just going to send to a professional to install, thanks

    Martin Frutos, Nuñez - Ответить

    The bottom screws are Pentalobe, not Phillips.

    Bram Driesen -

    Before starting, I would recommend backing up your Iphone’s data just in case.

    Jon Moylan - Ответить

    If you managed to make it to this section, just send the phone into apple for 50 + 6 dollars shipping. The ribbon cables on the screen are designed to break. I can literally twist on the rest of the cable and it won’t fall apart but there is a diagonal section where it snaps. This is the fault of apple and the fault of ifixit for misrepresenting the fragility of the cables.

    Ryan Huebert - Ответить

    Had to reheat it a few times for a minute each with a hairdryer to get the seal to break after pulling and rocking the suction

    Cynthia Lamb - Ответить

    I’m technically challenged. Is there a premier national service who can professionally install a replacement battery got my 7 +?

    Richard - Ответить

    Do the screws come out in total?

    YVES THEUGELS - Ответить

    Is it the P2 you should use for the bottom??

    YVES THEUGELS - Ответить

    I heated the bottom of the phone with a hairdryer and then used a syringe to put a couple of drops of acetone directly into the bottom two screw holes. I GENTLY pulled on the screen with the suction cup and used the pry tool to GENTLY separate the screen. The sealant is applied around the entire display so be very careful pulling it off so you don’t break the fragile display cables.

    Anthony Scaminaci - Ответить

  2. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, iPhone 7 Opening Procedure: step 2, image 1 of 1
    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    ¿Cuántos segundos son los recomendados?

    joscarlos91 - Ответить

    Sesenta segundos

    Krutav Shah -

    It is a process. I heated the lower area of the phone with a hair dryer on and off (1min each) about 3-4 times before I was able to get the provided tool in.

    Dan - Ответить

    I suggest using a hairdryer. I used the iOpener for maybe 30 mins to no avail. However, when I used the hairdryer the screen came of much quicker.

    Michael - Ответить

    I totally Mr. Myagi’ed it, by rubbing my hands together until they burned, then held the phone un my hot hands. I did this 5-6 times over a couple of minutes. It was a good zen way to get started!

    Ark - Ответить

    Can a heat gun be used?

    Lee - Ответить

    Absolutely. Just don’t overdo it—the adhesive usually softens up pretty easily. If you are experienced with a heat gun, you’ll have no problem. (If you are inexperienced, it’s easy to cook the display or cause other damage.)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If i use this process, will iphone 7 still be sealed, water/ splash resist after that?

    Marius Serban - Ответить

    Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    Angel Hermida -

    Can I use a cpb heating pad to soften the adhesive ? If yes how much time and temperature ?

    davidecongiu - Ответить

    Will doing this compromise the screen protector (Zagg) that I have on my phone?

    Eric Nance - Ответить

    Hairdryer worked for me but I needed to use a razor to pry it open at the bottom then used the spudger

    Gina Torres - Ответить

    Is there a reason why you wouldn’t put the iopener over the entire length of the phone, instead of just the bottom corner?

    BPX - Ответить

    The motherboard is extremely sensitive to heat.

    Neal Reasland -

    Hello can the head damage the id touch bottom?

    After heating opening it stoped working.

    Qrizmasex @ gmail . Com

    aratovski - Ответить

    It definitely can. That happened to me.

    Steve Naylor -

    mine didnt come with a heat pack do i use a hair dryer

    Shy Rose - Ответить

    I just threw a hand towel in hot water, and then stuck it into a plastic bag. Dryers work fine, too.

    hiroo yamagata -

    Thanks for this, the other instructions make it seem SOOOOO simple to open up the case with the suction cup! It actually is hellish. The instruction here about the pre-heating and the required patience really helped!

    hiroo yamagata - Ответить

    For those of you who don’t have an iOpener or a girlfriend, I used a ziplock bag with some instant mashed potato inside. It worked perfectly first time and you can fold the bag around the ID button in order to prevent damage to it.

    You also get to celebrate by eating the mash afterwards, HUZZAH!

    Adrian - Ответить

    🤣 You made my day Adrian, thank you!

    Jicey -

    I found this to be completely useless. It didn’t help at all. I had to use a heat gun instead. Waste of money.

    David Gordon - Ответить

    I’ll experiment with leaving the phone in the sun until the Temperature Warning comes up so the phone tells me when it’s too hot to be safe.

    Maybe it will be hot enough, maybe it won’t—

    edmk5000 - Ответить

    I use a rice pack in the microwave. White dry rice in a sock sown or tied, then microwave (1 minute +/-). The dry rice heats and retains heat for a long time. My kids loved them in in bed during cold winter nights.

    Todd Oeftger - Ответить

    I have changed now Iphone 5 Battery, IPhone 7 front camera & another iPhone 7 rear camera. The instructions along with the comments are really important. Be patient & read them several times. By using your heated gel pack 3-4 times for 2 mins or so on the bottom end near the touch button you will be able to pry with your razor & then you can use your spudger. Thanks for this great guide.

    Kala - Ответить

    I would DEFINITELY recommend to NOT use direct heat (hair drier, etc.) on the phone. I used a hair drier to help heat the phone and ended up damaging the home button (would not work after the replacement and I did not touch or take apart the home button). Note that a damaged home button cannot be replaced so I will end up using the alternative “screen” home button going forward with my phone. Instead I would recommend preheating something else (example - metal / coins / ceramic / beads / glass stones / cookware / etc..) to a warm-to hot (but not burning hot) touch and place the heated items on the IPHONE (or visa versa) to heat and soften the adhesive.

    Ed Scannell - Ответить

    I used 1-gallon Ziploc back and poured 1qt of boiling water into it. I placed my iPhone on a corkboard and the bag on top for 120 sec.

    It worked like magic. I just pooled the screen with the suction cup, and it got loose from the case. No heat damage. Everything works.

    it500 - Ответить

    I placed the iOpener heat bag over the bottom of the phone, disregarding the home button. Now it doesn’t work. All subsequent procedures went well as I was very careful. I should have read all the posts! Protect the home button from direct heat. Fortunately, now using the Assistive Touch feature is better than buying a new phone or replacing the home button.

    Kurt Bee - Ответить

    It’s better to choose an iPhone back case to cover and protect your phone from bumps and scratches. Choosing premium cases is the best option for long-term safety. If you need ***iPhone 7 phone cases*** then you can check them out!

    FLAUNT - Ответить

  3. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 3, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 3, image 2 of 2
    • Attach a suction cup to the lower half of the display assembly, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

    • If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

    The glass is completely cracked and the suction cup doesn't work because it gets air in between. any tip?

    Display is glued and doesn't come off.

    support - Ответить

    A wide, single strip of packing tape, well placed, will solve this for you. :)

    Mimic44444 - Ответить

    Last comment works well. Thank you !

    Using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in the description in Step 3.

    Cracked screen is most probably the reason you are replacing it.

    Arni Benediktsson - Ответить

    I agree that using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in this steps description. I don’t have wide but turned mine horizontal and that worked great.

    Mary Knapp - Ответить

    Bekomme die Oberschale einfach nicht runter! Trotz mehrmaligem erwärmen durch den iOpener und seitlichen bewegen! Weiß nicht mehr weiter!

    Stephan Lienhard - Ответить

    Wouldn’t that screw up the Touch ID?

    Rexx Havok - Ответить

    The suction cup that is. supplied with the essentials kit doesn’t work that well.

    Laurence - Ответить

    Agreed, the iFixit suction cup was useless. I borrowed one from the sponge holder in my kitchen sink. It lacked a grip so I held it with needle-nose pliers, resting them on a bit of wood to keep pressure off the phone.

    ephraim -

    I am not getting this open at all! Why an I provided with tools that can't help me ??‍♀️

    Bray Joseph - Ответить

    I couldn’t get the bottom to lift first, but the left side did, so I started there and worked my way around the horn.

    selimnairb - Ответить

  4. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 4, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 4, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 4, image 3 of 3
    • Pull up on the suction cup to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

    • Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong, and creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.

    This was SO hard for me to do with the spudger. I couldn’t get a gap to insert it because my phone was so cracked (even though I used tape on the front) to get a solid seal with the suction cup. I ended up taking a VERY thin knife and inserting it straight down to make the initial break that allowed me to insert the spudger.

    jessica harlow - Ответить

    I’ve given up using a plastic spudger to try to open any of these phones. I use a metal one with a flat base and a very sharp end…close to a razor. As long as I’m careful, it won’t slip and scratch the base. It’s much easier than using these plastic spudgers.

    mcr4u2 -

    I confirm that the plastic spudger it’s not the best tool for this operation. I suggest to use a larger metal tool like a “Jimmy” or “iSesamo open tool” (I used the first one)

    Cristef -

    Im trying to get the screen off right now and my phone is not cracked and its still a pain

    Jordon Johnson - Ответить

    Using a blow dryer was extremely helpful and using the suction cup towards one of the lower edges was also helpful

    Jordon Johnson - Ответить

    This is not working for me. How long does the heat need to be applied? Still trying right now…. =/

    Chris Gallego - Ответить

    Apply hair dryer for at least 1 minute. I inserted the tip end of a thin mini screwdriver and with some force, pryed it open and inserted my plastic spudger to continue the separation process. It worked, just be patient.

    Please wear protective glasses! My iPhone glass was severely cracked, when separating the glass a corner area of broken glass exploded in my face. Apply transparent tape over the broken glass to contain the shards.

    amberron - Ответить

    I second Jessica’s January 8 comment.  I just finished a battery replacement on my iPhone 7 and this step was the most nerve-wracking part.  I ended up using a sharper (but not razor-sharp) metal object to get this done with confidence (tried the spudger and guitar pick but not thin enough).  The tool I used was the exact duplicate of what iFixIt calls “iSesamo Opening Tool” in their tool selection.  I did the heat up with a hair dryer (after attempts with an iOpener hot pad) and the secret (as Jessica also noted)  was to not use the angle of attack shown in the pictures, but to push it in more vertically along the bottom edge while pulling up on the suction cup.  From there you can easily lever the tool to the lower angle-of-attack (as shown in the picture).  I actually used the metal tool for most of the perimeter as well, just don’t go deep (you don’t need to).  Notes: my display was intact, and I was able to pull up fairly hard with a glass screen protector still on it.

    Ted - Ответить

    This is frustrating. I heated the lower edge with a hair dryer for 1 min on high about 3-4 times. In between each heat cycle, I rocked the suction cup back and forth. I was eventually able to create significant space for the provided tool. This takes a lot of patience. Once the space was created, it was very easy to remove the screen.

    Dan - Ответить

    use a fingernail, then the blue tool, then the spudger

    Therese Peffer - Ответить

    The iOpener worked just fine for me. Had to keep it on for a few minutes. I also was able to get the suction cup seal right close to the edge, over top of the home button for added leverage. Used the blue tool and transitioned to the spudger. Slow, steady pressure…and patience. ;)

    johnhall918 - Ответить

    Unable to open an iPhone 7 display assembly. Used gell pack at 150 degrees F. The phone wouldn’t budge when I used the iFixit suction cut. Part of the problem is that the cup doesn’t adhere for long before it looses suction. I suspect it would work better on unbroken glass, but that doesn’t help me now. After spending a lot of time at this, I changed heating methods to a hot air heater. I raised the temp of the bottom end of the phone to, ultimately, 175 degrees, and used a variety of tools to try to pry the glass apart enough to get a spudger (or anything) in, but it didn’t even lift enough for a double-edged razor blade to get in. I’ve been trying this for hours now, and about to give up and throw a lot more money at this to have a service perform the work. I figured that 175 was as high as I should need to go to soften the adhesive without damaging the electronics. Should I have gone higher? I see no mention of measured temps in any instructions or comments.

    ted - Ответить

    Have you tried applying tape to the broken screen? This will help a lot with keeping the suction cup on it.

    Christian Groothuis -

    It doesn’t need to get very hot; pulling up on the display is mainly what does the trick. Make sure the two pentalobe screws have been removed and then try the tricks in this step. If all else fails, superglue the suction cup to your display and let it cure, and then pull. Keep in mind you only need a tiny gap to insert a plastic pick and start cutting the adhesive. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Just a question. After this operation the impermeability function was compromitted?

    bentek86 - Ответить

    The trick I found, was to add packing tape right across the bottom over the home button then use hairdryer on the end, then suction cup on the very bottom and it lifted enough to get a gap. No one mentioned how it would be impossible to handle the phone after the hairdryer ;)

    Andrew Lansdowne - Ответить

    Didn’t have an iOpener and 60 seconds on a hairdryer wasn’t doing it for me. Still wouldn’t budge. I had to take a very sharp razor along the seam at the bottom between the speakers. It took about 20 passes for it to separate enough to get the spudger in. Make sure you keep the razor at a 90-45˚ angle and that it goes no more than 1-2mm into the phone. The bottom of the phone is metal, but the casing for the screen is plastic. So if you cut lower than a 45˚ (flat with the phone) you risk cutting into the casing. Apply light pressure when making the passes. I would just do the razor on the flat part on the bottom.

    minimalist - Ответить

    I used a hair drier while lifting up at the same time until I could get the too inside. The seal is pretty finicky. Just take your time and you should be fine. Work the hair drier and the tool all the way around before lifting the screen up and off. There will likely be sealant stuck between the screen and phone. You can just break it with the tool.

    Ray Bieze - Ответить

    This step was impossible for me despite using a blow dryer and having no cracks on the screen. I finally took it to a local repair place and had them do battery replacements for two iPhone 7’s. The girl let me watch her do it. She used a razor blade (just until she had a small opening that she could hold open with her fingernail) and confirmed that she too would have difficulty opening it with a plastic tool and suction cup. The plastic tool was great for prying the rest of it open once a crack was there, but she said she would never try to use that as the tool to initially open it. The tools provided for initially prying open the screen are inadequate.

    Chad Twedt - Ответить

    Hopeless - no chance to get the screen off without any damage. No matter what tools, heat etc.

    Anatole Beams - Ответить

    I second what others have said, definitely use a razor blade to break the seal! Heat helps some, but too much direct heat is bad for the screen. Would have been impossible if I hadn’t read the comments, thanks everybody!

    Kit - Ответить

    Use extreme caution on this step. I was just replacing my battery and now i’m buying a new screen. The screen was very stuck, I pulled to hard and it popped off suddenly, completely destroying the screen.

    moose - Ответить

    When the right heat is reached, the easiest way is to use a metal iFlex to create the initial gap, then insert the Jimmy or iSesamo next to it so the gap gets bigger, at this point you can get in with the flat edge of a plastic spudger and slowly slide it in the borders to cut the adhesive. You will still need to force a bit the upper end to separate the screen by pulling it down while keeping up the screen, and twist to the right. I hope this is clear enough. Never apply too much strength too quickly anyway.

    Stefano Restuccia - Ответить

    I used the short blade of my swiss knife to make an initial opening. Using the sharp edge, inserting about 1 mm straight down and twisting down into a 45° angle. Then I was able to insert the spudger.

    John van de Loo - Ответить

    This is a difficult step. Fortunately, I had another suction cup from an earlier repair available, so I applied one to each side of the phone. After warming with a hair dryer, I was able to pull the two suction cups far enough away that another person could easily insert the spudger.

    The third hand was essential.

    Mark - Ответить

    I found this tactic to be the best solution for us. I used two suction cups, one on each side of the phone, and another set of hands to get a pry tool under the display. We still had to take our time prior while heating the adhesive, but were able to pry the display fairly easily using the two suction cup method.

    Lucas -

    It was a really excruciating process of heating, lifting with the suction cup, trying to slide in the spudger/pick, and repeating the process for 20 times or so. But in the end, my patience paid off!

    hiroo yamagata - Ответить

    I used a hair dryer, then used a safety razor blade parallel to the bottom edge to push straight down (from the glass side, towards the back) while lifting with the suction cup. I wiggled the blade (top to bottom) while pressing down gently, until I saw a gap that would accept the spudger. It did not take much force on the blade or much wiggling, just patience.

    Gene Merritt - Ответить

    Followed Gene’s approach with heat and a razor blade. I was nervous, but went slow; it was very easy and effective. Great tip. Just be patient and don’t rush yourself.

    Michael J - Ответить

    I would skip right to using a single edge razor blade and a hair dryer to create the gap needed for the spudger.

    Logan Brown - Ответить

    Think plunging the toilet - it did not work for me for a long time. the suction cup would not stay held on a long pull. I found that tiny push-pull repeated motions, reseating the suction cup with each push slowly overcame the adhesive, and contributed heat :). I had it after about 50-70 cycles

    Andrew Balanda - Ответить

    seconding this comment from Ted ~~~ “the secret (as Jessica also noted)  was to not use the angle of attack shown in the pictures, but to push it in more vertically along the bottom edge while pulling up on the suction cup.  From there you can easily lever the tool to the lower angle-of-attack (as shown in the picture).”

    natjpollard - Ответить

    I echo what everyone is saying here, the spudger just isn’t good enough for this and neither is a pick. The razor is the best way to go. I tried using a very sharp penknife blade and managed to damage my LCD (somehow!) and the bezel so I ended up having to buy a new screen display as well as a new battery. Think twice before doing this. Be prepared to shell out for a new screen just in case it goes wrong. You’ll also need the heat gun (the iopener was useless). If you do need to buy a new screen, make your life easier and get one with the speaker, forward-facing camera, home button, etc., already attached (you can then replace the home button) or you’ll end up having to transfer all these from your old display.

    David Gordon - Ответить

    I finally got the screen up but shattered it in the process. I was replacing it anyway but if the screen is not what you’re replacing, take EXTEME caution. The suction cup and spudger were not working for me to get it started. Thanks to the comments, I used a razor blade and a heating pad and went back and forth, back and forth, between heat and pressure from the blade. Once you get a gap, the spudger works great and the screen comes up easy.

    Nick Nave - Ответить

    The suction cups that iFixit sells are crap. They don’t stick at all. Glass on the phone is pristine.

    Nick - Ответить

    More feedback on this “guide”:

    “Pull up on the suction cup.” What does this mean? If I just pull up on the suction cup (with a real one that actually sticks) it just lifts the phone off the table. You need a description of what you are pulling against. Do I try to hold the frame of the phone? Do I try to stick something in the lightning port to pull against? Do I try and get something against the edge of the rounded metal on the edge of the phone (this usually just slips off). What am I pulling against???

    Nick - Ответить

    I found a combination of iOpener, suction cup and razor blade, all applied at the same time, worked for me and I didn't need to use a hairdryer.

    Peter Gray - Ответить

    Dumbly, I thought that with the Spudger I'd had to hold the phone from the charging hole while pulling the screen. .. In the end I inserted the two ends of the tweezers(bends the tweezers and may damage it) in the screwdriver holes and pushed the screen out upwards so that I could insert the sharp side of a knife.

    Claudiu Cezar - Ответить

    This was my first iPhone battery replacement and I can say this was the hardest part.

    Be wise, go for a hair dryer and heat up the phone bottom (long enough). iOpener did not work at all for me. Heat up, use the suction cup and push the opening pick under the frame as soon as you see movement along the frame.

    Then use the spudger to wander around the whole frame (leaving the pick where it is). Done!

    Guenter - Ответить

  5. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 5, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 5, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 5, image 3 of 3
    • Slide the spudger to the left along the lower edge of the iPhone.

    • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case.

    Didn’t have an iOpener and 60 seconds on a hairdryer wasn’t doing it for me. Still wouldn’t budge. I had to take a very sharp razor along the seam at the bottom between the speakers. It took about 20 passes for it to separate enough to get the spudger in. Make sure you keep the razor at a 90-45˚ angle and that it goes no more than 1-2mm into the phone. The bottom of the phone is metal, but the casing for the screen is plastic. So if you cut lower than a 45˚ (flat with the phone) you risk cutting into the casing. Apply light pressure when making the passes. I would just do the razor on the flat part on the bottom.

    minimalist - Ответить

    I used a hairdryer and a razor

    Gina Torres - Ответить

    The photos are a con. You cannot get a spudger in unless you can lift the screen. You cannot lift the screen because of the adhesive. Using a anything metal will damage the paintwork or the glass edge.

    Anatole Beams - Ответить

    I agree, these guides are half imaginary idealism it seems. A thin metal edge pushed vertically down just a fraction of a mm will cause the adhesive to weaken better than any amount of heat, but affects the final appearance sadly.

    Jesse de Vries - Ответить

  6. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 6, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 6, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 6, image 3 of 3
    • Slide the spudger up the left side of the iPhone, starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch.

    • Do not pry along the top edge of the phone, you risk damaging the plastic clips securing the display.

    Be VERY careful on this next step going up the right side of the phone. There is a ribbon cable 1/3 of the way up from the bottom that is very close to the edge. Do NOT use the blue triangle!!!! Just lightly rotate the spudger to get separation on the edge.

    Timothy Varvais - Ответить

  7. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 7, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 7, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 7, image 3 of 3
    • Insert the flat edge of a spudger into the bottom right corner of the device.

    • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

    • Slide the flat end of the spudger up the right side of the phone to break up the adhesive holding the display in place.

    • Do not insert the spudger further than the adhesive to avoid damaging delicate ribbon cables along the right edge.

    Shoot. I broke the sensitive ribbon cable because I didn’t quite understand what the instructions meant with not to insert the spudger further than the adhesive. It means depth wise, not up the side. Sigh.

    Leo Hwang - Ответить

  8. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 8, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 8, image 2 of 2
    • Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone.

    • Do not raise the display more than 10º as there are ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.

    do not pull up pull sideways it will brake

    Riley Patterson - Ответить

    Somehow my phone turned itself back on during the opening. Scared me a little, like a patient coming out of anesthesia during the operation. I was able to turn it back off. Gotta be more careful where you grab this thing.

    Bryant Larsen - Ответить

  9. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 9, image 1 of 1
    • Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

  10. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 10, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 10, image 2 of 2
    • Slide an opening pick along the top edge of the iPhone, between the rear case and front panel, to break up the remaining adhesive holding the screen in place.

    • Be careful not to damage the plastic clips on the top edge of the phone.

    The plastic clips mentioned are on the top of the screen being replaced… so not sure why it matters not to break them. Trick here was to pull the screen downwards to open a gap at the top and then insert as shown and raise to break the seal.

    Andrew Lansdowne - Ответить

    This is relevant for other guides than the display replacement guide.

    jvalaamo -

    プラスチックのクリップという

    表現に混乱しました。

    上部に食い込んでいる

    差し込みのことだったんですね。

    下に引っ張ったら抜けました。

    情報ありがとうございました。

    MARU - Ответить

    The opening pick is packaged with the battery, not the tools, so I didn’t find it until I was past this step. Made do with careful use of the spudger and a lot of wiggling the display to break the glue.

    ephraim - Ответить

  11. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 11, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 11, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 11, image 3 of 3
    • Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    I just broke the cable to the battery!

    No Bama - Ответить

    same dude im such a freak lol omg haha

    Aiden Polaski - Ответить

    Are there replacements ribbons?

    Blax Bently - Ответить

    Has anyone else noticed very small squares of rubber with a circle cut through it (I think they fall off into the phone when dismantling)?

    I just replaced my screen and worked out that these are actually a wee pocket that slips over the pentalobe screw holes on the replacement screen. I’m not sure if it’s an additional water resisting mechanism or if it’s to add additional traction for the screws

    richarddillon - Ответить

    Thanks, I was wondering where those were from!

    Albert -

    Same, I only had one fall out and I had no idea if important, and didn’t re-add - because I wasn’t sure where it fell from - but it was definitely from the home screen button….watch it be important. -__-

    Nicole Crome -

    I just broke cable connecting camera and earpiece speaker to logic board. Be careful with it.

    Natan Haładyn - Ответить

    This section is missing a critical step - to lay some Post-It notes or something below the right half of the phone when you swing it open, so the ribbon cables don’t get sliced by the sharp edge of the phone case. I broke the Home Button ribbon cable because there was no strain relief when I laid it open.

    neila - Ответить

    I also broke the home button cable and now I have to use assistive touch.

    Laurencio Gonzalez - Ответить

    Keep the suction cup on the display to keep it propped up while you disconnect the ribbon cables.

    minimalist - Ответить

    I broke the short ribbon cable that attaches underneath the lower connector bracket. Be SURE when you lift the display, you do it from left to right. I thought I had the phone oriented correctly in my hand, but I was mistaken.

    John Murray - Ответить

    Put the suction cup on the right side of the middle of the screen when you rotate it up and out. It serves as a nice stand to take the pressure off the connectors.

    Ray Bieze - Ответить

    no mention of what you do once u open the book. are the ribbons long enough to lie flat  or do we have to keep screen raised while removing screws,, like when we hold screen up 45 degrees while removing 5 screw plat when at top of phone. I only realised how fragile the ribbons are and how important it is to use suction  cup to rest screen on an angle so ribbons don't stretch or cut on frame.

    thanks for the above comments and probably the most important section. I just hope I closed t before I fdid any damage. its lke the fragility of iPhone 3’s all over again.

    scallyteacher - Ответить

    I just broke one of the cables… yeah, it is not nice… I’m lucky in the sense the screen is still working, but the button is not.

    Trying a cheap screen on Ebay (that contains the cable) do 20$, after that, it’s a new cellphone…

    Vincent Poirier - Ответить

    Be EXTREMELY careful when you lift up the screen. I broke 3D touch cable, and the home button stopped working. Had to replace the whole display.

    Sizun Cho - Ответить

    Attention ! J’ai cassé la nappe de la caméra avant !

    arnauldjouanny - Ответить

  12. Ahhh shoot! accidentally ordered tri-wing vs tri-point (must have just looked for y000).. It seems they only did this to annoy repair folks because not everything is tri-point on the phone...

    Steve - Ответить

    These screws just spin for me. They don't back out, but the heads aren't stripped either. I've tried applying backpressure to help lift the screws, but no luck

    Jeff Hurst - Ответить

    The Y000 took out one of the screws but not the other 3. I even tried the PH000 as suggested but nothing.

    dbright - Ответить

    What driver do I need to remove these screws i’m stuck

    Nasser Nader - Ответить

    i cant use, the Y000 it isnt working.

    joscarlos91 - Ответить

    What if I stripped a screw what do I do??

    Jacob Ramos - Ответить

    Yep, only the 2.4mm came out, other 3 won’t budge, and worried I’ve stripped the heads. Anyone got any ideas?

    Stephen Babbage - Ответить

    It’s the screwdriver bit that is the problem. I had the same issue with 2 Y000 bits not grabbing the screw properly. I fixed it by using a small 3 sided file to slightly grind the groves in the Y000 bit just a bit deeper. Then the bit worked like a charm on these screws.

    Jim Staples - Ответить

    Use Y000 on all 4. U have to be very sensitive on the 1.2mm screws. Put the bit in the screw, put the left pointing finger on top of the screwdriver and turn the driver carefully to the right until you feel a “bump”, thats the trick :-), then you are able to screw the screw out.

    Magne Eivindson - Ответить

    For me the key here was a LOT of downward pressure to ensure the Y000 bit caught in the screw. Not sure i can describe how much exactly, but is was significant. Otherwise the bit would not catch.

    Erik Fredriksen - Ответить

    What do I do if I Stripped one of them?

    Adam Corral - Ответить

    Can’t get them removed what to do ?

    cowling_luke - Ответить

    Managed to get the central one out. The upper one won't move, the lower one I've popped out with some force. This allows you to rotate the cover enough to unplug the various bits. Not ideal, but works. I've tried applying a lot of pressure, using the tighten/ loosen method, but the heads have just got mashed… no wonder Samsung are now No1, sigh…

    jimpoolio - Ответить

    You need to be careful when just rotating the cover as you can accidentally slice through the two black antennas! You only need to nip them…As you can tell I have done this in the past :/

    Kyle Webb -

    The first, longer screw came out fine, but the other three wouldn’t budge, regardless of more/less pressure or a slight angle or anything. I finally filed down the tip of the Y000 bit ever so slightly, and then it worked. Hope this helps someone.

    Harmony - Ответить

    Filing down the bit worked for me. The tip about putting an index finger on the end of the screwdriver handles and then turning gently until it clicks into place was very helpful! Using these 2 tips I didn't need much downward pressure. Screws are out in a few turns.

    Chris Bennett - Ответить

    If you can’t get the bit to grip the screw properly, you can use a little bit of the water-proof sealing between the bit and the screw. That worked for me. Hope this helps anyone.

    jvalaamo - Ответить

    Mine came out easily. I placed the screws in the area where the bit goes in my kit so I can keep track.

    Gina Torres - Ответить

    I used a bunch of medicine cups to track my screws. You need like 12 if you want them all in cups. I ran out. There are so many different sizes that literally vary by 1mm. The tolerances on these things are tight.

    Ray Bieze - Ответить

    I use a 28 day pill box and keep every screw separate and reburn to exact slot because they all vary in length, width and can really damage u phone if too long and nt secure if to small.  use a magnetised screwdriver,  or make the cheap freebees magnetic for a short period by rubbing it up an a magnet. lol

    scallyteacher - Ответить

    Absolutely ridiculous had to go get a different one just stupid

    mark golling - Ответить

    I couldn’t get the lowest one out and just turned the metal bracket out of the way and replaced battery.

    qwerty77x - Ответить

    Was able to get the outer bracket screws out using fine needle nose pliers 90 degrees straight down for the outer ones by pressing down a little and using medium gripping force. Had to take these out first before i could use tweezers on the middle one, for which I had to use tweezers to hold the screw, then rotating the bracket (not the screw) counter clockwise a few mm many times over to slowly unscrew it 1/32th of a turn at a time, repeat. (this loosened middle screw). Think ‘rotating bracket 3minutes/degrees counterclockwise at a time while holding screw in place.) You are gonna need really small/fine pliers and tweezers for this because the heads are countersunk into the bracket.

    Galen Wollenberg - Ответить

    The top screw in the step was much longer than 1.2mm. It has the same head as the 1.2mm, but different than the 2.4mm. It’s good to keep track of where they came from.

    All are so small that I thought I’d lost one, when it was still sitting in the phone.

    Mark - Ответить

    To help tell if the screw is turning, put a small dot from a marker on the head of the screws.  This helped me to know I wasn't just stripping the head.

    Darren Thibodaux - Ответить

    try heating the iPhone with a hairdryer or a bag of rice or about 60 degrees in an oven for 3 minutes . It has worked for me. If the screws don’t come out while hot the will come out as the iPhone cools.

    David Howard - Ответить

  13. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 13, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the lower connector bracket.

    my battery cable connector was stuck to the bottom of this metal bracket plate so be careful when you lift it off

    Josh Martin - Ответить

    This may have been intentionally done by Apple to make sure the battery gets disconnected before any other connector is disconnected. So always make sure to disconnect the battery before disconnecting and reconnecting the connectors for the display.

    Oscar Moreno - Ответить

    So…I forgot to put this bracket back on when reassembling. Now I’ve adhered the display to the case and don’t have another adhesive strip…so I’m wondering: what purpose does this bracket serve? The phone is powering on and seems to work okay.

    Am I going to run into trouble with this bracket missing?

    Ian Fritz - Ответить

    Well, that didn’t last long. The phone shuts down without warning. So I guess that plate is important…

    Ian Fritz -

    I also forgot to put the battery shield in, and adhered the display. I’m tempted to leave it like that. However, your negative experience is a good data point telling me to not be cheap.

    Ordered a new adhesive , under $2 shipped from eBay.

    Yishai Sered -

    Thanks, Josh Martin! Mine was stuck too, so I lifted carefully.

    Cynthia Lamb - Ответить

  14. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 14, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 14, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 14, image 3 of 3
    • Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone.

    Was kann passieren wenn man diesses Kabel vergessen hat zu entfernen `?

    Julian Eltrich - Ответить

    Reconnecting the battery poorly can cause the iPhone to appear to be properly powered and functional, but then suffer a reboot loop.

    I had difficulty after a screen replacement, and the Console app on my Mac showed that the ‘thermalmonitord’ process was throwing lots of errors from not getting any sensor readings from the battery. It would never charge past 1% and just kept rebooting.

    The contacts on this conector looked fine so even though I had reseated this connector several times already, I reconnected it very firmly using my thumb and a spudger to really press all the corners and middle and really gave it a good massage and then finally it showed the normal dead battery screen and started properly charging and eventually booted back up to normal functionality.

    It seems the battery has to be able to transmit data to the phone to say it’s not overheating or iOS will not allow any current into the battery to recharge it, and the kernel will panic from the null readings and just reboot over and over again.

    jason - Ответить

    In my case, the battery connector was attached to the bracket. We just left it connected bracket when we pryed it up.

    Dave Miller - Ответить

    Reconnecting the battery connector was a bit difficult in my case. The cable that comes out of the battery was a tiny bit too long, or that I placed the battery a bit too high (i.e., too close to the top of the phone). It took me several frustrating minutes of fiddling with the connector for it to sit right into the socket. I was not sure if that was connected correctly but, alas, the phone came back to life when it was turned back on.

    Tomoharu Eguchi - Ответить

    VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: Please READ the reply here by jason.

    It is very easy to knock off or nudge the little pins near the battery socket, see https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/... and https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/....

    Those pins are the data lines to extract battery info: temperature, charge, etc. If you accidentally nudge/knock off them the phone could appear to work normally, even for a few days. But then you will start getting wrong battery reads and then after that it may suffer a reboot loop. If you enter settings > privacy > analytics & improvements and you scroll down you will find panic errors from thermalmonitord that there are missing sensors (TG0B or TGXXX) and you will have to micro solder them. DO NOT NUDGE THEM and double check the socket connector when reconnecting the battery.

    PJM - Ответить

  15. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, Display Assembly: step 15, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, Display Assembly: step 15, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, Display Assembly: step 15, image 3 of 3
    • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.

    • Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board.

    • To reconnect these cables, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the opposite end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

    • If you have a blank screen, white lines on the display, or partial or complete lack of touch response after reassembling your phone, try disconnecting and carefully reconnecting both of these cables and make sure they are fully seated.

    To be honest you don’t really need to disconnect the display cables in step 15 or 16 to get the battery out. Just keep the suction cup on the screen to keep it propped up and to give the cables some slack. The only reason to take these cables off is that it’s a pain to apply the replacement display adhesive with those cables in the way. If you’re not re-waterproofing your phone just leave these attached.

    iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement

    minimalist - Ответить

    MAKE SURE you hold the top screen when dislodging the cable connections. I let the screen lie flat down and ended up tearing one of the cable connections, now my touch ID does not work at all! I’m going to have to order a whole new screen.

    Arjun Nagarajan - Ответить

    Don’t miss that SECOND CONNECTOR like I did. It will break very easily if not disconnected :(

    garrett peek - Ответить

    An earlier comment said to re-apply the suction cup to the right side of the display so that it acts as a stand when the phone is partially opened. That’s a great idea, and helps a lot for this step and the next.

    Mark - Ответить

    Hey – I broke one of these flex cables and I cant find them to purchase anywhere. Can somebody help me? It’s the LCD connector first and what is the second flex cable for? Thanks!

    Chan Ty - Ответить

    I broke the second (smaller) display connector flex cable.

    1) Is it replaceable or repairable?

    2) Where can I get the replacement?

    Ben Blom - Ответить

    I replaced the screen and have ended up with a blank screen. Touch control seem to work (touch button works and I can shut down the phone by pressing power button for some seconds and then swipe left to right in the upper part of the screen). But the screen is blank. I’ve tried to disconnect and connect the two connectors in step 16 but with the same result (blank screen). What do I need to do?

    Thanks for advice!

    Bjorn - Ответить

    this point is the most important in the whole manual.

    Please pay attention not to strain the flex cables or they will end up breaking

    Jose Joaquín Sanz Iniesta - Ответить

    I should have been more careful - the second cable tore off.

    My own fault after having done this replacement about four times previously without any issues, I clearly got cocky and didn’t pay enough attention.

    Be VERY CAREFUL and remember to unplug those cables. Don’t skip steps.

    I’ve now had to order a replacement screen.

    Stuart - Ответить

    Echo minimalist’s comment here. Prop the display up and skip to step 19 to save time and remove risk.

    .A. - Ответить

    If you replace the screen and there is no display apply io propyl alcohol 99.9 & purse to both connectors on the screen and on the iPhone with a clean toothbrush and let them dry for 45 minutes and then fit the screen and reassemble the iPhone..

    It works for me . when I get a new screen I do t5his before fitting it.

    David Howard - Ответить

    I tried to save time by not removing the screen during battery replacement as some comment here, HOWEVER, I ended up having to use a little force to remove the battery and in the process broke the second, lower smaller cable, resulting in loss of home button function and needing to get a new screen. Next time I will follow these steps and completely remove the screen during a battery replacement

    chrislacey - Ответить

    There is a critical fact missing from the steps here, for reassembly: That bottom (underlying) cable is longer than it should be. Loads of people are reporting that the Home button is dead after this repair, but the cables aren't torn. I'm pretty sure this is why. Here is a picture of the problem.

    When reassembling the phone, you must poke this cable back into the body of the phone while you bring the halves together, or you will crush, crimp, and destroy the cable.

    Gavin Stokes - Ответить

  16. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 16, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 16, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 16, image 3 of 3
    • Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector.

    • Some phones could be Y000. Apple started using Y000 for these at some point in the middle of the product's lifecycle.

    Has anyone had trouble getting these two screws off? I’ve been working on these for about 10 minutes and the LEFT screw wont spin. It seems like the little PH000 screwdriver bit won’t even grip it. (The one of the right comes off, no problem)

    It looks like I’ll have to pick this project up again with a screwdriver that will actually take off this piece.

    Makana Sylva - Ответить

    If you’re having trouble removing these screws;

    the screw on the right goes into a standoff screw that is screwed into the frame.The left one goes into the logicboard.

    If your phone is used most likely it has been repaired in the past and the person that repaired it put the screws in way too tight.

    If your phone is brand new And you know 100% it is then the problem is your screwdriver.Stop before you strip it completely and buy a better screwdriver (EBAY).

    If you already stripped the screw head take the phone to a shop before you break it.

    there are ways to get them out but truthfully it’s extremely dangerous and sometimes your better off quitting while you are ahead.

    Vegeta Barrett -

    The right screw kept spinning, tried different levels of force but didn’t work. I left the screw on and bent the shield to get to the cable.

    s h - Ответить

    I used a #1 flat head tip to loosen.

    Peter Pearson - Ответить

    I couldn’t get the two screws out either—used the correct screw tip and everything. Stripped the screw. Will now attempt to just keep the cable attached…..

    Therese Peffer - Ответить

    Use the PH000 and apply a little more force before spinning, should come right out!

    Sierra Scolaro - Ответить

    ^To anyone having trouble, this is the correct answer. Put the phone on a firm surface, align your driver carefully, press down hard, and twist. As long as your driver is approximately the right size, it’ll come out.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    the two screw i have are stripped and i have n way of getting either screws off whats my next bet

    Alexis Marie Colon - Ответить

    The PH000 bit is to large. I can’t get the screws out either which really sucks…now I have to put everything back together, find another bit that will work and try this again another day. Not impressed with IFIXIT’s attention to detail so far :-(

    Ryan Welborn - Ответить

    Using iFixit’s driver kit, I prefer a PH00 for this, which is larger than the PH000. If you think the PH000 is too big, something is wrong.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I think part of the issue with the iFixit PH000 is that it is slightly too pointy. The PH00 fits better because the splines engage the slots of the screw before the point bottoms out. The PH000 tip bottoms out in the screw’s center point and the splines don’t engage as well. I have other PH000 tips that are more blunt nose and they work better than the iFixit bit.

    rcarswell - Ответить

    Use the J00 bit. Worked perfectly

    efazio588 - Ответить

    PH000 screwdriver didn’t work for any of these screws, or the barometric vent, or the taptic engine. It was too big. I had to use a different screwdriver from another kit I had.

    minimalist - Ответить

    I’d do this step before removing the ribbon cables by the battery connector. That way you can disconnect all of them at the same time.

    Ray Bieze - Ответить

    i used the little +-shape 30 mm screwdriver (not the Y…but the + shape).

    mason - Ответить

    the cable tore. is that it i need a new phone?

    patricia loving - Ответить

    You don’t need a new phone, but your selfie camera and phone speaker will not work. You can get replacements for that about $10.

    jack jones - Ответить

    Reconnecting this cable and coverplate took a good 20 minutes. O_O

    Nicole Crome - Ответить

    What can I do to remove the screw (I stripped it)

    Alex Vu - Ответить

    I also had issues to loosen up the screws, in two parts the right side up and the left side down, i think the PH000 is to pointy or something or its too hard for the srews of the iphone, i cannot take it off and know im regreting i bought i order all the way from Paraguay in south america and know so angry it doesnt work

    Martin Frutos, Nuñez - Ответить

    I skipped this step. Just be really careful not to pull on the screen.

    Takumi Arai - Ответить

    The guide says they changed these to the Y000 “at some point in the t middle of the product’s lifecycle”…

    That can’t be true, I have a *day one*, preordered iPhone 7, and mine had, unmistakably, Y000 screws!

    and also, I’m just faithfully following the guide here, but can anyone clarify *why* is is necessary to entirely remove the display AND the Taptic Engine at all? The battery seems accessible just fine… oh well

    PS- I’m doing this on an older backup iPhone 7. My iPhone 12 Pro just went berserk and stopped working completely a little over a year after I got it day one of its release… since the iPhone X I’ve only had easily breakable, overly sensitive phones. I’ve had every numbered iPhone except for the 8 (I got the X released at the same date) and the 11, and man, are these newer iPhones post X fragile!

    Cam F - Ответить

  17. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 17, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 17, image 2 of 2
    • Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.

    Das ist sehr mutig, das Kabel dort so zu strapazieren.

    Mich würde das Display daneben stellen und mit irgendetwas stützen, dass es nicht umkippen kann um Beschädigungen an dem Kabel zu vermeiden. Das reißt sehr schnell ein.

    Detlef Menninger - Ответить

    Is this the connector for the earpiece, as well? I did the screen replacement and everything worked, except now I can’t use my earpiece… I’m afraid I didn’t fully connect this particular portion.

    Victor Bui - Ответить

    @victorbui714 Correct, this is also the connector for the earpiece speaker. Check the flex cable carefully and make sure it wasn’t pinched or torn. Make sure the connector socket is clean (give it a blast with some compressed air if needed) and try reseating it. If that doesn’t help, you may want to remove the earpiece speaker and inspect the four springs on the back, and check that they’re intact and making good contact with the four circular pads on the flex cable. Give the pads a wipe with some IPA and try not to leave any skin oils on them. If none of that works, try replacing the entire flex cable/sensor assembly. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This is the only connector that is quite easily possible to put back in the wrong way. If you do so, the phone will just get into a continuous loop where it shows the boot screen, goes blank and then shows the boot screen again and again. If this happens, do not despair-just put it back in the right way.

    Roy Mathew - Ответить

    After putting together, I had a continuous loop boot up (as noted above). I saw articles where this (front panel sensor connection) was the reason. I disconnected this connection and the boot up loop stopped. I tried reconnecting several times but had the same problem (boot up loop). However, it turns out that I needed to apply extra pressure when installing until a heard a (faint) second click when pressing down. Note - before I was using the spudger to press the connection together, which didn’t do the job. I ended up using my finger to press harder to get it to click in. Solved that issue.

    Ed Scannell - Ответить

    The ribbon cable on this step is torn. Is this something that can be replaced? Is this only to the earpiece?

    John Daily - Ответить

    The ribbon cable on this step is torn. Is this something that can be replaced? Is this only to the earpiece?

    Sarah Valencia - Ответить

  18. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 18, image 1 of 1

    When removing the screen, be aware of the two tiny square black rubber grommets on the Penelope screw brackets that secure the screen. They can fall off very easily and be lost without even knowing it (it happened to me, but was lucky enough to find them).

    Guy Cooley - Ответить

    Sorry, I’m so unclear about when to replace the Adhesive tape. Should I put the iPhone 7 Display Assembly Adhesive at this step, or after I’ve replaced the battery?

    Victor Bui - Ответить

    @victorbui714 Battery first, then adhesive during reassembly, as it says in the instructions. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This is the 3rd screen iv put in my phone and everyone them bust at the top by the camera every time iv bought one of these screen idk if it’s the manufactures fault or what?

    trent bost - Ответить

    @trentb28922 Ouch! That’s not normal. Is your phone’s frame bent? Are you having to use a lot of force when you install the display?

    Jeff Suovanen -

  19. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, Barometric Vent: step 19, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the two 1.9 mm Phillips screws securing the barometric vent to the rear case.

    The barometric vent seems to have some foam cushioning towards the bottom of the case? does this get damaged via removal I wonder?

    Phil - Ответить

    I’m stucked with the right screw, can't get it out. Any ideas?

    Racecar - Ответить

    Edit: I’ve lifted the taptic engine without unplugging it. Removing the battery stripes didn't cause any issues.

    Racecar -

  20. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 20, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 20, image 2 of 2
    • Remove the vent.

  21. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, Taptic Engine: step 21, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, Taptic Engine: step 21, image 2 of 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine connector from its socket on the logic board.

  22. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 22, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the three 1.6 mm Phillips screws securing the Taptic Engine to the rear case.

    My screws are stripped here. Please help, I don’t know what to do!

    Salva Alcón - Ответить

    My screws are also stripped here, but the phone has never been opened before!

    Kyle Webb - Ответить

    Hey Salva and Kyle, sorry to hear about all these stripped screws! For help with removing them, check out our guide.

    Adam O'Camb - Ответить

    I had a new phone. These screws were missing when I disassembled it. Not sure what QC Apple has, but it ain’t great. If they’re missing it’s not the end of the world. You can just disable taptic touch.

    Ray Bieze - Ответить

    I had my 7 battery replaced by an Apple Authorized dealer. Around 2 weeks after the taptic engine started to make a !&&* of a noise when it was activated (sounded as if it was loose)… then 1 month after that… it stopped working completely. fast forward 8-9 months later, the battery they had replaced just wasn’t holding its charge anymore (phone was spending more time plugged in charging and depleting very quickly = full charge lasted about 1-2 hours). Having bought the ifixit battery and have gotten as far as this step, I could see that all three of the 1.6mm screws were just floating around in the compartment and the taptic engine was just being held on via it’s ribbon lead. WTF?! Screws aren’t stripped and I managed to fix it in again. Why would these screws be floating around like this??

    Phil - Ответить

    another person checking in here to assure you that, if you find a stripped screw (or more) at this step, you’re not crazy. I have one as well! I’m in dis-effing-belief. This phone has NEVER been serviced by anyone, and was allegedly brand new when purchased.

    To the person suggesting a dremel tool to remedy this…. *blink**Blink*. Are you kidding me right now? *slap*. Vibrating the !&&* out of all those sensitive parts - not to mention what one slip could end in your phone being effectively sawed in half.

    Cunning Stunt - Ответить

  23. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 23, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 23, image 2 of 2
    • Remove the Taptic Engine.

  24. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, Speaker Assembly: step 24, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the Phillips screw securing the Wi-Fi diversity antenna to the rear case:

    • One 3.2 mm screw

  25. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 25, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the following three Phillips screws securing the speaker to the rear case:

    • Two 1.3 mm screws

    • One 2.0 mm screw

  26. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 26, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 26, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 26, image 3 of 3
    • Use the point of a spudger to lift the two antenna cable connectors up off of the sockets on the logic board.

    Hey may i ask…what is the use of both of the antenna cables?i just opened my iphone 7 plus and i found both of the cables are broken.if both of the cables are broken,what does it effect on my iphone?

    Mohd Wazirul - Ответить

    I'm missing the black thing from my antenna and I have no signal, could this be the reason why? Is the black thing insulation?

    Keah Smith - Ответить

    These doodads are a pain to route and reconnect. I probably spent 15 minutes just on this part of reassembly. One of them is connected to the new part. It won’t have the soft grommet on top.

    Ray Bieze - Ответить

    One of these came away from its base. The one nearest the battery.

    When I reassemble it I’m thinking just a bit of glue at the side once re attached to base, so lomg as it touches the base contacts?

    Any comments?

    ANDREW - Ответить

    I am having the worst time imaginable trying to reconnect the antenna cable coming from the lightening connector assembly to the logic board. It’s barely long enough and will not snap into place. There’s a minature gold pin sticking up from a circular gold ring on the logic board and I must have spent an hour on this one step. The antenna end has the female end. Everything else went well. The antenna connector from the old lightening assembly will connect relatively quickly. I’m beginning to think the new antenna connector female end might be defective. I’m ready to cut the black antenna wire and try to solder in a longer piece using the old connector assembly. Any ideas? HELP !!!

    David Sandrof - Ответить

    These can be tricky to reconnect. I found the best way is to hold the connector with tweezers and use the point of a spudger on top of the connector in the other hand. Slowly moving the connector with the tweezers while applying gentle pressure with the spudger, you will eventually feel the connector and its seat line up and you can snap into place. Don’t force it, when it is lined up it is easy so you have to patiently work on aligning it.

    David Ege - Ответить

    please say which antenna is which, impossible to know now

    Mitchell Thompson - Ответить

    Tip that helped me: remove the standoff screw next to the clip before derouting (or, upon reassembly, rerouting) the cables. This gives you a lot more space to work with! (Note: I only did this on reassembly, so I don’t know if there are any gotchas on disassembly.)

    T Murrills - Ответить

    Please pay close attention to witch one goes where or take a picture bad mistake made.

    michael - Ответить

  27. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 27, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 27, image 2 of 2
    • Use tweezers to derout the antenna cables from their bracket on the logic board.

  28. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 28, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 28, image 2 of 2
    • Use tweezers to remove the antenna cables from the clip on the speaker.

    • Make sure to grasp the cable near the clip in order to avoid damaging the cable.

    They pull off to the side.

    Ark - Ответить

    This was an oddly challenging step, lifting the speaker slightly from the top end allowed me to slide the tips of one side of the tweezers in between the cable and the speaker, prying it out rather than grabbing and pulling which feels dangerous.

    Jesse de Vries -

    difficile a retirer. Les 2 tables sont clipsés sur le haut parleur. Il m’a bien fallu 10 - 15 minutes pour arriver a les retirer. Aucune astuce a vous donner, a part de la persévérance.

    Guigui - Ответить

    One cable seems to stay attached to the speaker. Don’t try to pry it off the speaker! This is shown in the video but not in these photos.

    Cynthia Lamb - Ответить

  29. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 29, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 29, image 2 of 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to slide the speaker assembly towards the logic board and off of the rear case.

  30. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 30, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the speaker.

    Reassembly tip: after aligning the speaker with the bottom edge, instead of lowering the speaker into place, keep the speaker raised slightly and push the cables back into the clip (which were removed in step 28) with the flat end of a spudger. In doing so, though, make sure that the cable from the lightning connector piece remains above the flat metal piece protruding out the left side of the speaker.

    T Murrills - Ответить

  31. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, SIM Card: step 31, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, SIM Card: step 31, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, SIM Card: step 31, image 3 of 3
    • Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

    • Press to eject the tray.

    • This may require a significant amount of force. However, ensure the eject tool is properly aligned beforehand as to not damage the eject mechanism inside the phone.

    • Remove the SIM card tray assembly from the iPhone.

    • When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

    Received a sim card tray from IFIXIT for my iphone 7. I can’t seem to get it to close flush no matter how hard I try. Any suggestions?

    AJ Dereume - Ответить

    Why would it require a significant amount of force? Is it because the iPhone 7 is water resistant? When I removed my tray it was like it was stuck in goop inside the phone and the tray had a glue like sticky substance on it? It did not ‘click’ back in smoothly like my other iPhones, I had to push it against the ‘goop’. Is this normal for iPhone 7??

    Rebecca Diakun - Ответить

    I used the tip of the super pointy tweezers, and it worked well.

    Cynthia Lamb - Ответить

  32. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, Logic Board Connectors: step 32, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, Logic Board Connectors: step 32, image 2 of 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera connector.

  33. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 33, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 33, image 2 of 2
    • Remove the following Phillips screws securing the rear camera bracket to the rear case:

    • One 1.3 mm screw

    • One 2.5 mm screw

    I couldn’t get my 1.3mm screw out. It’s not required thankfully as you can just bend the cover up and out of the way to complete the rest of the steps.

    Ray Bieze - Ответить

    i removed them with PH000

    Flavien - Ответить

  34. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 34, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the bracket.

  35. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 35, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 35, image 2 of 2
    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna bus connector, just left of the rear camera module.

    There is one Step missing before removing the flash light cable: Remove Camera cable, right?

    Achim Breidenbach - Ответить

    I broke this and can’t find it on amazon. Is it part of the volume control flash connector? If not, can you send me a link on where to find this connector,…and possible instructions on how to replace?

    Daniel Buhler - Ответить

  36. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 36, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the two 1.2 mm tri-point screws securing the upper cable bracket.

    these are too tight cant get rid off them from y000

    Narendra Mane - Ответить

    ok with Y000 from pro tool kit

    Flavien - Ответить

    Had to push down to get the Y000 in place

    Cynthia Lamb - Ответить

  37. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 37, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 37, image 2 of 2
    • Remove the upper cable bracket.

  38. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 38, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 38, image 2 of 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the upper cable connector.

    Este cable q funciona tiene porfavor lo desconecte y funciona normal

    Johnny Bolaños - Ответить

  39. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 39, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 39, image 2 of 2
    • Remove the four Phillips screws securing the Wi-Fi antenna:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 1.7 mm screw

    I lost one of these 1.2 mm screws. Will that affect the signal reception?

    Bethany Knaebel - Ответить

    There is another screw connecting the antenna to the case.

    tbaiello - Ответить

    How do you open the 1.7mm screw? LOL

    Kyle Victor - Ответить

    The screws are not threading in for some reason. I measured the screws to be exactly 1.2mm with a caliper.

    Loopy75 - Ответить

    Yes there are 4 x screw 3 x 1.2mm and 1x 1.7mm securing the antenna to the case

    ANDREW - Ответить

    Yes : 4 screws and not 3 !!

    sirthomasnardin -

  40. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 40, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 40, image 2 of 2
    • Remove the top left antenna.

    ** also remove the small Phillips screw fastening the WiFi antenna to the top rear casing of the phone

    iBroke - Ответить

  41. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 41, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the following Phillips screws:

    • One 1.3 mm screw

    • One 2.2 mm screw

  42. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 42, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 42, image 2 of 2
    • Remove the bracket.

    What's this bracket called

    Cris Velasquez - Ответить

    %#*@, lost that part during the job, thought it’d be alright without it. Couple days later figured out NFC doesn’t work anymore. Any ideas on where to get this part from, colleagues?

    azowux - Ответить

    • Remove the 2.2 mm standoff screw from the grounding bracket.

    • Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

    What bit is this? The link doesn’t use the same name.

    Mike Moran - Ответить

    I didn’t even have an eyeglass repair kit flathead, so I hit the end of a paperclip with a hammer to make a flathead, and it works!

    Ark - Ответить

    I hate getting the deep into a repair to find there’s a tool missing. This bit should be part of the toolkit!

    Ark - Ответить

    Its in the toolkit now. Looks like a Philips head but up close the end is squared off with a point in the middle.

    Jesse de Vries -

    I received two boxes - one box contained the repair part, the other was the tool kit. I only opened the tool kit before disassembling the phone. The standoff screwdriver bit was not in there. Neither was the guitar pick. I used a real guitar pick and a small standard screwdriver from my toolbox. When I was ready to reassemble, I opened the repair part box and guess what was in there - the standoff screwdriver bit and guitar pick. So, I guess if you just order the part it will come with (at least) those two tools. The tool kit contains tweezers, suction cup, three screwdriver bits (tri-point, pentalobe, and phillips) and screwdriver handle, a long black spudger with a flat end and a pointy end, and a smaller, thicker spudger with a wide, flat ends.

    bronyaur - Ответить

    The flat end of the spudger works a treat too.

    Robert Trammel - Ответить

    Thank you, bronyar. Since there is a box labeled “Repair Tools”, I never would have looked in the parts box for tools. I was able to use the standoff tool to takie the phone apart, not just to put it back together.

    Mike Ruzicka - Ответить

    I used standoff bit for iPhone from my pro tool kit

    Flavien - Ответить

  43. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 44, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 44, image 2 of 2
    • Use tweezers to gently bend the logic board grounding bracket out of the way.

    I accidentally broke the grounding bracket, is it very important to get a new one to replace? as I can't seem to find them for sale anywhere

    Mustifa shah - Ответить

    I also broke it. Did your phone work after?

    Did you find a replacement?

    Ben Schorr - Ответить

    Did your phone work ?

    Emin -

    also broken does it work without?

    Emin - Ответить

    I broke mine while doing this step. A bit confusing. You’re just supposed to bend it out the way, not pull on it entirely. Will the phone still work without this?

    Chandler Forrest - Ответить

    $@$*, i broke the grounding bracket

    Z1xus - Ответить

    I just didnt bend this one.. Ill tell you how it went

    Lauren Campbell - Ответить

  44. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, Lightning Connector Assembly: step 45, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement, Lightning Connector Assembly: step 45, image 2 of 2
    • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the lower cable connector.

    This is ‘hinged’ on the battery side.

    Eugene Gardner - Ответить

  45. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 46, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the following screws:

    • One 1.4 mm Phillips screw

    • Three 2.2 mm standoff screws

    • Standoff screws are best removed using an [связанный продукт отсутствует или отключен: IF145-343-1] and driver handle.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

    The lowest standoff screw is different than others, so be careful when reinstaling them

    dominik.balasko - Ответить

  46. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 47, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 47, image 2 of 2
    • Use the point of a spudger to move the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board's way.

  47. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 48, image 1 of 2 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 48, image 2 of 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery connector end of the logic board up.

    • Make sure you're not pulling against any cables. If you feel resistance, check all cables, connectors, and components are clear of the board.

    Assurez-vous à cette étape (au moment du remontage) que le connecteur de l'antenne (que vous voyez à l’étape 35) est bien par dessus votre carte mère et qu’l n’est pas passé dessous !!!

    Laurent LABRUNIE - Ответить

  48. iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 49, image 1 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 49, image 2 of 3 iPhone 7 Lightning Connector Assembly Replacement: step 49, image 3 of 3
    • Lift the battery connector end of the logic board and pull it up and out of the rear case.

    • Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables.

    Reassembly note: Remember to tuck the logic board under the logic board grounding bracket that we loosened in step #44.

    Ark - Ответить

    Remember to remove the SIM card eject plunger (see step 47) or you may loose it seeing as there is no longer anything to stop it dropping out.

    Alex Thompson - Ответить

    stick a small bit of sellotape over the sim card plunger hole to prevent it dropping out.

    ANDREW - Ответить

    Reassembly note:

    Peel up a couple centimeters of the lightening port and plug it in to the logic board *before* seating the logic board. Doing this, you can perfectly line up the connector and hold it to the board as you jimmy everything in to place. This makes the hardest part of the job a no-brainer.

    jason4 - Ответить