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Введение

Is your phone not detecting your charging cable? Does your charging port feel loose? It might be time to replace your Lightning connector assembly. Use this guide to replace the Lightning connector assembly which includes the lower microphones, antenna cable, and Lightning connector.

Note that this repair does require a fair amount of disassembly, and it will require time and caution.

  1. Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    Can anyone confirm 7/7P's pentalobe screws have a ring of seal near the screw head?

    Cooper Chase - Ответить

    Confirmed, the screws have a black ring seal around the head.

    rcheing - Ответить

    Can’t get the display front

    Bernadette Pfeifer - Ответить

    From personal experience, I highly recommend before doing this procedure or any other, that you do a backup of your phone (preferably local) in case your procedure goes south.

    ballina5ny - Ответить

  2. Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    ¿Cuántos segundos son los recomendados?

    joscarlos91 - Ответить

    Sesenta segundos

    Krutav Shah -

    It is a process. I heated the lower area of the phone with a hair dryer on and off (1min each) about 3-4 times before I was able to get the provided tool in.

    Dan - Ответить

    I suggest using a hairdryer. I used the iOpener for maybe 30 mins to no avail. However, when I used the hairdryer the screen came of much quicker.

    Michael - Ответить

    I totally Mr. Myagi’ed it, by rubbing my hands together until they burned, then held the phone un my hot hands. I did this 5-6 times over a couple of minutes. It was a good zen way to get started!

    Ark - Ответить

    Can a heat gun be used?

    Lee - Ответить

    Absolutely. Just don’t overdo it—the adhesive usually softens up pretty easily. If you are experienced with a heat gun, you’ll have no problem. (If you are inexperienced, it’s easy to cook the display or cause other damage.)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If i use this process, will iphone 7 still be sealed, water/ splash resist after that?

    Marius Serban - Ответить

    Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    Angel Hermida -

    Can I use a cpb heating pad to soften the adhesive ? If yes how much time and temperature ?

    davidecongiu - Ответить

    Will doing this compromise the screen protector (Zagg) that I have on my phone?

    Eric Nance - Ответить

    Hairdryer worked for me but I needed to use a razor to pry it open at the bottom then used the spudger

    Gina Torres - Ответить

    Is there a reason why you wouldn’t put the iopener over the entire length of the phone, instead of just the bottom corner?

    BPX - Ответить

    The motherboard is extremely sensitive to heat.

    Neal Reasland -

    Hello can the head damage the id touch bottom?

    After heating opening it stoped working.

    Qrizmasex @ gmail . Com

    aratovski - Ответить

  3. Attach a suction cup to the lower half of the display assembly, just above the home button. Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.
    • Attach a suction cup to the lower half of the display assembly, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

    The glass is completely cracked and the suction cup doesn't work because it gets air in between. any tip?

    Display is glued and doesn't come off.

    support - Ответить

    A wide, single strip of packing tape, well placed, will solve this for you. :)

    Mimic44444 - Ответить

    Last comment works well. Thank you !

    Using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in the description in Step 3.

    Cracked screen is most probably the reason you are replacing it.

    Arni Benediktsson - Ответить

    I agree that using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in this steps description. I don’t have wide but turned mine horizontal and that worked great.

    Mary Knapp - Ответить

    Bekomme die Oberschale einfach nicht runter! Trotz mehrmaligem erwärmen durch den iOpener und seitlichen bewegen! Weiß nicht mehr weiter!

    Stephan Lienhard - Ответить

    Wouldn’t that screw up the Touch ID?

    Rexx Havok - Ответить

  4. Pull up on the suction cup to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case. Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap. The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong, and creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.
    • Pull up on the suction cup to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

    • Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong, and creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.

    This was SO hard for me to do with the spudger. I couldn’t get a gap to insert it because my phone was so cracked (even though I used tape on the front) to get a solid seal with the suction cup. I ended up taking a VERY thin knife and inserting it straight down to make the initial break that allowed me to insert the spudger.

    jessica harlow - Ответить

    I’ve given up using a plastic spudger to try to open any of these phones. I use a metal one with a flat base and a very sharp end…close to a razor. As long as I’m careful, it won’t slip and scratch the base. It’s much easier than using these plastic spudgers.

    mcr4u2 -

    I confirm that the plastic spudger it’s not the best tool for this operation. I suggest to use a larger metal tool like a “Jimmy” or “iSesamo open tool” (I used the first one)

    Cristef -

    Im trying to get the screen off right now and my phone is not cracked and its still a pain

    Jordon Johnson - Ответить

    Using a blow dryer was extremely helpful and using the suction cup towards one of the lower edges was also helpful

    Jordon Johnson - Ответить

    This is not working for me. How long does the heat need to be applied? Still trying right now…. =/

    Chris Gallego - Ответить

    Apply hair dryer for at least 1 minute. I inserted the tip end of a thin mini screwdriver and with some force, pryed it open and inserted my plastic spudger to continue the separation process. It worked, just be patient.

    Please wear protective glasses! My iPhone glass was severely cracked, when separating the glass a corner area of broken glass exploded in my face. Apply transparent tape over the broken glass to contain the shards.

    amberron - Ответить

    I second Jessica’s January 8 comment.  I just finished a battery replacement on my iPhone 7 and this step was the most nerve-wracking part.  I ended up using a sharper (but not razor-sharp) metal object to get this done with confidence (tried the spudger and guitar pick but not thin enough).  The tool I used was the exact duplicate of what iFixIt calls “iSesamo Opening Tool” in their tool selection.  I did the heat up with a hair dryer (after attempts with an iOpener hot pad) and the secret (as Jessica also noted)  was to not use the angle of attack shown in the pictures, but to push it in more vertically along the bottom edge while pulling up on the suction cup.  From there you can easily lever the tool to the lower angle-of-attack (as shown in the picture).  I actually used the metal tool for most of the perimeter as well, just don’t go deep (you don’t need to).  Notes: my display was intact, and I was able to pull up fairly hard with a glass screen protector still on it.

    Ted - Ответить

    This is frustrating. I heated the lower edge with a hair dryer for 1 min on high about 3-4 times. In between each heat cycle, I rocked the suction cup back and forth. I was eventually able to create significant space for the provided tool. This takes a lot of patience. Once the space was created, it was very easy to remove the screen.

    Dan - Ответить

    use a fingernail, then the blue tool, then the spudger

    Therese Peffer - Ответить

    The iOpener worked just fine for me. Had to keep it on for a few minutes. I also was able to get the suction cup seal right close to the edge, over top of the home button for added leverage. Used the blue tool and transitioned to the spudger. Slow, steady pressure…and patience. ;)

    johnhall918 - Ответить

    Unable to open an iPhone 7 display assembly. Used gell pack at 150 degrees F. The phone wouldn’t budge when I used the iFixit suction cut. Part of the problem is that the cup doesn’t adhere for long before it looses suction. I suspect it would work better on unbroken glass, but that doesn’t help me now. After spending a lot of time at this, I changed heating methods to a hot air heater. I raised the temp of the bottom end of the phone to, ultimately, 175 degrees, and used a variety of tools to try to pry the glass apart enough to get a spudger (or anything) in, but it didn’t even lift enough for a double-edged razor blade to get in. I’ve been trying this for hours now, and about to give up and throw a lot more money at this to have a service perform the work. I figured that 175 was as high as I should need to go to soften the adhesive without damaging the electronics. Should I have gone higher? I see no mention of measured temps in any instructions or comments.

    ted - Ответить

    Have you tried applying tape to the broken screen? This will help a lot with keeping the suction cup on it.

    Christian Groothuis -

    It doesn’t need to get very hot; pulling up on the display is mainly what does the trick. Make sure the two pentalobe screws have been removed and then try the tricks in this step. If all else fails, superglue the suction cup to your display and let it cure, and then pull. Keep in mind you only need a tiny gap to insert a plastic pick and start cutting the adhesive. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Just a question. After this operation the impermeability function was compromitted?

    bentek86 - Ответить

    The trick I found, was to add packing tape right across the bottom over the home button then use hairdryer on the end, then suction cup on the very bottom and it lifted enough to get a gap. No one mentioned how it would be impossible to handle the phone after the hairdryer ;)

    Andrew Lansdowne - Ответить

    Didn’t have an iOpener and 60 seconds on a hairdryer wasn’t doing it for me. Still wouldn’t budge. I had to take a very sharp razor along the seam at the bottom between the speakers. It took about 20 passes for it to separate enough to get the spudger in. Make sure you keep the razor at a 90-45˚ angle and that it goes no more than 1-2mm into the phone. The bottom of the phone is metal, but the casing for the screen is plastic. So if you cut lower than a 45˚ (flat with the phone) you risk cutting into the casing. Apply light pressure when making the passes. I would just do the razor on the flat part on the bottom.

    minimalist - Ответить

    I used a hair drier while lifting up at the same time until I could get the too inside. The seal is pretty finicky. Just take your time and you should be fine. Work the hair drier and the tool all the way around before lifting the screen up and off. There will likely be sealant stuck between the screen and phone. You can just break it with the tool.

    Ray Bieze - Ответить

    This step was impossible for me despite using a blow dryer and having no cracks on the screen. I finally took it to a local repair place and had them do battery replacements for two iPhone 7’s. The girl let me watch her do it. She used a razor blade (just until she had a small opening that she could hold open with her fingernail) and confirmed that she too would have difficulty opening it with a plastic tool and suction cup. The plastic tool was great for prying the rest of it open once a crack was there, but she said she would never try to use that as the tool to initially open it. The tools provided for initially prying open the screen are inadequate.

    Chad Twedt - Ответить

  5. Slide the spudger to the left along the lower edge of the iPhone. Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case. Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case.
    • Slide the spudger to the left along the lower edge of the iPhone.

    • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case.

    Didn’t have an iOpener and 60 seconds on a hairdryer wasn’t doing it for me. Still wouldn’t budge. I had to take a very sharp razor along the seam at the bottom between the speakers. It took about 20 passes for it to separate enough to get the spudger in. Make sure you keep the razor at a 90-45˚ angle and that it goes no more than 1-2mm into the phone. The bottom of the phone is metal, but the casing for the screen is plastic. So if you cut lower than a 45˚ (flat with the phone) you risk cutting into the casing. Apply light pressure when making the passes. I would just do the razor on the flat part on the bottom.

    minimalist - Ответить

    I used a hairdryer and a razor

    Gina Torres - Ответить

  6. Slide the spudger up the left side of the iPhone, starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch. Do not pry along the top edge of the phone, you risk damaging the plastic clips securing the display. Do not pry along the top edge of the phone, you risk damaging the plastic clips securing the display.
    • Slide the spudger up the left side of the iPhone, starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch.

    • Do not pry along the top edge of the phone, you risk damaging the plastic clips securing the display.

    Be VERY careful on this next step going up the right side of the phone. There is a ribbon cable 1/3 of the way up from the bottom that is very close to the edge. Do NOT use the blue triangle!!!! Just lightly rotate the spudger to get separation on the edge.

    Timothy Varvais - Ответить

  7. Insert the flat edge of a spudger into the bottom right corner of the device. Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display assembly and the rear case. Slide the flat end of the spudger up the right side of the phone to break up the adhesive holding the display in place.
    • Insert the flat edge of a spudger into the bottom right corner of the device.

    • Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

    • Slide the flat end of the spudger up the right side of the phone to break up the adhesive holding the display in place.

    • Do not insert the spudger further than the adhesive to avoid damaging delicate ribbon cables along the right edge.

  8. Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone. Do not raise the display more than 10º as there are ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.
    • Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone.

    • Do not raise the display more than 10º as there are ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.

    do not pull up pull sideways it will brake

    Riley Patterson - Ответить

    Somehow my phone turned itself back on during the opening. Scared me a little, like a patient coming out of anesthesia during the operation. I was able to turn it back off. Gotta be more careful where you grab this thing.

    Bryant Larsen - Ответить

  9. Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
    • Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

  10. Slide an opening pick along the top edge of the iPhone, between the rear case and front panel, to break up the remaining adhesive holding the screen in place. Be careful not to damage the plastic clips on the top edge of the phone.
    • Slide an opening pick along the top edge of the iPhone, between the rear case and front panel, to break up the remaining adhesive holding the screen in place.

    • Be careful not to damage the plastic clips on the top edge of the phone.

    The plastic clips mentioned are on the top of the screen being replaced… so not sure why it matters not to break them. Trick here was to pull the screen downwards to open a gap at the top and then insert as shown and raise to break the seal.

    Andrew Lansdowne - Ответить

    This is relevant for other guides than the display replacement guide.

    jvalaamo -

  11. Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case. Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book. Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
    • Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    I just broke the cable to the battery!

    No Bama - Ответить

    same dude im such a freak lol omg haha

    Aiden Polaski - Ответить

    Are there replacements ribbons?

    Blax Bently - Ответить

    Has anyone else noticed very small squares of rubber with a circle cut through it (I think they fall off into the phone when dismantling)?

    I just replaced my screen and worked out that these are actually a wee pocket that slips over the pentalobe screw holes on the replacement screen. I’m not sure if it’s an additional water resisting mechanism or if it’s to add additional traction for the screws

    richarddillon - Ответить

    Thanks, I was wondering where those were from!

    Albert -

    I just broke cable connecting camera and earpiece speaker to logic board. Be careful with it.

    Natan Haładyn - Ответить

    This section is missing a critical step - to lay some Post-It notes or something below the right half of the phone when you swing it open, so the ribbon cables don’t get sliced by the sharp edge of the phone case. I broke the Home Button ribbon cable because there was no strain relief when I laid it open.

    neila - Ответить

    I also broke the home button cable and now I have to use assistive touch.

    Laurencio Gonzalez - Ответить

    Keep the suction cup on the display to keep it propped up while you disconnect the ribbon cables.

    minimalist - Ответить

    I broke the short ribbon cable that attaches underneath the lower connector bracket. Be SURE when you lift the display, you do it from left to right. I thought I had the phone oriented correctly in my hand, but I was mistaken.

    John Murray - Ответить

    Put the suction cup on the right side of the middle of the screen when you rotate it up and out. It serves as a nice stand to take the pressure off the connectors.

    Ray Bieze - Ответить

    no mention of what you do once u open the book. are the ribbons long enough to lie flat  or do we have to keep screen raised while removing screws,, like when we hold screen up 45 degrees while removing 5 screw plat when at top of phone. I only realised how fragile the ribbons are and how important it is to use suction  cup to rest screen on an angle so ribbons don't stretch or cut on frame.

    thanks for the above comments and probably the most important section. I just hope I closed t before I fdid any damage. its lke the fragility of iPhone 3’s all over again.

    scallyteacher - Ответить

    • Remove four tri-point Y000 screws securing the lower connector bracket, of the following lengths:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 2.4 mm screw

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

    Ahhh shoot! accidentally ordered tri-wing vs tri-point (must have just looked for y000).. It seems they only did this to annoy repair folks because not everything is tri-point on the phone...

    Steve - Ответить

    These screws just spin for me. They don't back out, but the heads aren't stripped either. I've tried applying backpressure to help lift the screws, but no luck

    Jeff Hurst - Ответить

    The Y000 took out one of the screws but not the other 3. I even tried the PH000 as suggested but nothing.

    dbright - Ответить

    What driver do I need to remove these screws i’m stuck

    Nasser Nader - Ответить

    i cant use, the Y000 it isnt working.

    joscarlos91 - Ответить

    What if I stripped a screw what do I do??

    Jacob Ramos - Ответить

    Yep, only the 2.4mm came out, other 3 won’t budge, and worried I’ve stripped the heads. Anyone got any ideas?

    Stephen Babbage - Ответить

    It’s the screwdriver bit that is the problem. I had the same issue with 2 Y000 bits not grabbing the screw properly. I fixed it by using a small 3 sided file to slightly grind the groves in the Y000 bit just a bit deeper. Then the bit worked like a charm on these screws.

    Jim Staples - Ответить

    Use Y000 on all 4. U have to be very sensitive on the 1.2mm screws. Put the bit in the screw, put the left pointing finger on top of the screwdriver and turn the driver carefully to the right until you feel a “bump”, thats the trick :-), then you are able to screw the screw out.

    Magne Eivindson - Ответить

    For me the key here was a LOT of downward pressure to ensure the Y000 bit caught in the screw. Not sure i can describe how much exactly, but is was significant. Otherwise the bit would not catch.

    Erik Fredriksen - Ответить

    What do I do if I Stripped one of them?

    Adam Corral - Ответить

    Can’t get them removed what to do ?

    cowling_luke - Ответить

    Managed to get the central one out. The upper one won't move, the lower one I've popped out with some force. This allows you to rotate the cover enough to unplug the various bits. Not ideal, but works. I've tried applying a lot of pressure, using the tighten/ loosen method, but the heads have just got mashed… no wonder Samsung are now No1, sigh…

    jimpoolio - Ответить

    You need to be careful when just rotating the cover as you can accidentally slice through the two black antennas! You only need to nip them…As you can tell I have done this in the past :/

    Kyle Webb -

    The first, longer screw came out fine, but the other three wouldn’t budge, regardless of more/less pressure or a slight angle or anything. I finally filed down the tip of the Y000 bit ever so slightly, and then it worked. Hope this helps someone.

    Harmony Vine - Ответить

    Filing down the bit worked for me. The tip about putting an index finger on the end of the screwdriver handles and then turning gently until it clicks into place was very helpful! Using these 2 tips I didn't need much downward pressure. Screws are out in a few turns.

    Chris Bennett - Ответить

    If you can’t get the bit to grip the screw properly, you can use a little bit of the water-proof sealing between the bit and the screw. That worked for me. Hope this helps anyone.

    jvalaamo - Ответить

    Mine came out easily. I placed the screws in the area where the bit goes in my kit so I can keep track.

    Gina Torres - Ответить

    I used a bunch of medicine cups to track my screws. You need like 12 if you want them all in cups. I ran out. There are so many different sizes that literally vary by 1mm. The tolerances on these things are tight.

    Ray Bieze - Ответить

    I use a 28 day pill box and keep every screw separate and reburn to exact slot because they all vary in length, width and can really damage u phone if too long and nt secure if to small.  use a magnetised screwdriver,  or make the cheap freebees magnetic for a short period by rubbing it up an a magnet. lol

    scallyteacher - Ответить

    Absolutely ridiculous had to go get a different one just stupid

    mark golling - Ответить

  12. Remove the lower connector bracket.
    • Remove the lower connector bracket.

    my battery cable connector was stuck to the bottom of this metal bracket plate so be careful when you lift it off

    Josh Martin - Ответить

    This may have been intentionally done by Apple to make sure the battery gets disconnected before any other connector is disconnected. So always make sure to disconnect the battery before disconnecting and reconnecting the connectors for the display.

    Oscar Moreno - Ответить

  13. Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board. Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to  the phone. Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to  the phone.
    • Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone.

    Was kann passieren wenn man diesses Kabel vergessen hat zu entfernen `?

    Julian Eltrich - Ответить

  14. Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step. Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board. To reconnect these cables, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the opposite end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.
    • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.

    • Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board.

    • To reconnect these cables, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the opposite end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

    • If you have a blank screen, white lines on the display, or partial or complete lack of touch response after reassembling your phone, try disconnecting and carefully reconnecting both of these cables and make sure they are fully seated.

    To be honest you don’t really need to disconnect the display cables in step 15 or 16 to get the battery out. Just keep the suction cup on the screen to keep it propped up and to give the cables some slack. The only reason to take these cables off is that it’s a pain to apply the replacement display adhesive with those cables in the way. If you’re not re-waterproofing your phone just leave these attached.

    iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement

    minimalist - Ответить

    MAKE SURE you hold the top screen when dislodging the cable connections. I let the screen lie flat down and ended up tearing one of the cable connections, now my touch ID does not work at all! I’m going to have to order a whole new screen.

    Arjun Nagarajan - Ответить

  15. Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector. Remove the bracket. Remove the bracket.
    • Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector.

    • Remove the bracket.

    Has anyone had trouble getting these two screws off? I’ve been working on these for about 10 minutes and the LEFT screw wont spin. It seems like the little PH000 screwdriver bit won’t even grip it. (The one of the right comes off, no problem)

    It looks like I’ll have to pick this project up again with a screwdriver that will actually take off this piece.

    Makana Sylva - Ответить

    The right screw kept spinning, tried different levels of force but didn’t work. I left the screw on and bent the shield to get to the cable.

    s h - Ответить

    I used a #1 flat head tip to loosen.

    Peter Pearson - Ответить

    I couldn’t get the two screws out either—used the correct screw tip and everything. Stripped the screw. Will now attempt to just keep the cable attached…..

    Therese Peffer - Ответить

    Use the PH000 and apply a little more force before spinning, should come right out!

    Sierra Scolaro - Ответить

    ^To anyone having trouble, this is the correct answer. Put the phone on a firm surface, align your driver carefully, press down hard, and twist. As long as your driver is approximately the right size, it’ll come out.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    the two screw i have are stripped and i have n way of getting either screws off whats my next bet

    Alexis Marie Colon - Ответить

    The PH000 bit is to large. I can’t get the screws out either which really sucks…now I have to put everything back together, find another bit that will work and try this again another day. Not impressed with IFIXIT’s attention to detail so far :-(

    Ryan Welborn - Ответить

    Using iFixit’s driver kit, I prefer a PH00 for this, which is larger than the PH000. If you think the PH000 is too big, something is wrong.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I think part of the issue with the iFixit PH000 is that it is slightly too pointy. The PH00 fits better because the splines engage the slots of the screw before the point bottoms out. The PH000 tip bottoms out in the screw’s center point and the splines don’t engage as well. I have other PH000 tips that are more blunt nose and they work better than the iFixit bit.

    rcarswell - Ответить

    Use the J00 bit. Worked perfectly

    efazio588 - Ответить

    PH000 screwdriver didn’t work for any of these screws, or the barometric vent, or the taptic engine. It was too big. I had to use a different screwdriver from another kit I had.

    minimalist - Ответить

    I’d do this step before removing the ribbon cables by the battery connector. That way you can disconnect all of them at the same time.

    Ray Bieze - Ответить

    i used the little +-shape 30 mm screwdriver (not the Y…but the + shape).

    mason - Ответить

  16. Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board. This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.
    • Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.

    Das ist sehr mutig, das Kabel dort so zu strapazieren.

    Mich würde das Display daneben stellen und mit irgendetwas stützen, dass es nicht umkippen kann um Beschädigungen an dem Kabel zu vermeiden. Das reißt sehr schnell ein.

    Detlef Menninger - Ответить

    Is this the connector for the earpiece, as well? I did the screen replacement and everything worked, except now I can’t use my earpiece… I’m afraid I didn’t fully connect this particular portion.

    Victor Bui - Ответить

    @victorbui714 Correct, this is also the connector for the earpiece speaker. Check the flex cable carefully and make sure it wasn’t pinched or torn. Make sure the connector socket is clean (give it a blast with some compressed air if needed) and try reseating it. If that doesn’t help, you may want to remove the earpiece speaker and inspect the four springs on the back, and check that they’re intact and making good contact with the four circular pads on the flex cable. Give the pads a wipe with some IPA and try not to leave any skin oils on them. If none of that works, try replacing the entire flex cable/sensor assembly. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

  17. Remove the display assembly.

    When removing the screen, be aware of the two tiny square black rubber grommets on the Penelope screw brackets that secure the screen. They can fall off very easily and be lost without even knowing it (it happened to me, but was lucky enough to find them).

    Guy Cooley - Ответить

    Sorry, I’m so unclear about when to replace the Adhesive tape. Should I put the iPhone 7 Display Assembly Adhesive at this step, or after I’ve replaced the battery?

    Victor Bui - Ответить

    @victorbui714 Battery first, then adhesive during reassembly, as it says in the instructions. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This is the 3rd screen iv put in my phone and everyone them bust at the top by the camera every time iv bought one of these screen idk if it’s the manufactures fault or what?

    trent bost - Ответить

    @trentb28922 Ouch! That’s not normal. Is your phone’s frame bent? Are you having to use a lot of force when you install the display?

    Jeff Suovanen -

  18. Remove the two 1.9 mm Phillips screws securing the barometric vent to the rear case.
    • Remove the two 1.9 mm Phillips screws securing the barometric vent to the rear case.

  19. Remove the vent. Remove the vent.
    • Remove the vent.

  20. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine connector from its socket on the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine connector from its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine connector from its socket on the logic board.

  21. Remove the three 1.6 mm Phillips screws securing the Taptic Engine to the rear case.
    • Remove the three 1.6 mm Phillips screws securing the Taptic Engine to the rear case.

    My screws are stripped here. Please help, I don’t know what to do!

    Salva Alcón - Ответить

    My screws are also stripped here, but the phone has never been opened before!

    Kyle Webb - Ответить

    Hey Salva and Kyle, sorry to hear about all these stripped screws! For help with removing them, check out our guide.

    Adam O'Camb - Ответить

    I had a new phone. These screws were missing when I disassembled it. Not sure what QC Apple has, but it ain’t great. If they’re missing it’s not the end of the world. You can just disable taptic touch.

    Ray Bieze - Ответить

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  23. Remove the Taptic Engine. Remove the Taptic Engine.
    • Remove the Taptic Engine.

  24. Remove the Phillips screw securing the Wi-Fi diversity antenna to  the rear case:
    • Remove the Phillips screw securing the Wi-Fi diversity antenna to the rear case:

    • One 3.2 mm screw

  25. Remove the following three Phillips screws securing the speaker to the rear case:
    • Remove the following three Phillips screws securing the speaker to the rear case:

    • Two 1.3 mm screws

    • One 2.0 mm screw

  26. Use the point of a spudger to lift the two antenna cable connectors up off of the sockets on the logic board. Use the point of a spudger to lift the two antenna cable connectors up off of the sockets on the logic board. Use the point of a spudger to lift the two antenna cable connectors up off of the sockets on the logic board.
    • Use the point of a spudger to lift the two antenna cable connectors up off of the sockets on the logic board.

    Hey may i ask…what is the use of both of the antenna cables?i just opened my iphone 7 plus and i found both of the cables are broken.if both of the cables are broken,what does it effect on my iphone?

    Mohd Wazirul - Ответить

    Speaker and antenna?

    Keah Smith - Ответить

    I'm missing the black thing from my antenna and I have no signal, could this be the reason why? Is the black thing insulation?

    Keah Smith - Ответить

    These doodads are a pain to route and reconnect. I probably spent 15 minutes just on this part of reassembly. One of them is connected to the new part. It won’t have the soft grommet on top.

    Ray Bieze - Ответить

    One of these came away from its base. The one nearest the battery.

    When I reassemble it I’m thinking just a bit of glue at the side once re attached to base, so lomg as it touches the base contacts?

    Any comments?

    ANDREW - Ответить

  27. Use tweezers to derout the antenna cables from their bracket on the logic board. Use tweezers to derout the antenna cables from their bracket on the logic board.
    • Use tweezers to derout the antenna cables from their bracket on the logic board.

  28. Use tweezers to remove the antenna cables from the clip on the speaker. Make sure to grasp the cable near the clip in order to avoid damaging the cable.
    • Use tweezers to remove the antenna cables from the clip on the speaker.

    • Make sure to grasp the cable near the clip in order to avoid damaging the cable.

    They pull off to the side.

    Ark - Ответить

    They break very easily

    Josh Brito - Ответить

  29. Use the tip of a spudger to slide the speaker assembly towards the logic board and off of the rear case. Use the tip of a spudger to slide the speaker assembly towards the logic board and off of the rear case.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to slide the speaker assembly towards the logic board and off of the rear case.

  30. Remove the speaker.
    • Remove the speaker.

  31. Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray. Press to eject the tray. This may require a significant amount of force.
    • Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

    • Press to eject the tray.

    • This may require a significant amount of force.

    • Remove the SIM card tray assembly from the iPhone.

    • When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

    Received a sim card tray from IFIXIT for my iphone 7. I can’t seem to get it to close flush no matter how hard I try. Any suggestions?

    AJ Dereume - Ответить

  32. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera connector. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera connector.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera connector.

  33. Remove the following Phillips screws securing the rear camera bracket to the rear case: One 1.3 mm screw
    • Remove the following Phillips screws securing the rear camera bracket to the rear case:

    • One 1.3 mm screw

    • One 2.5 mm screw

    I couldn’t get my 1.3mm screw out. It’s not required thankfully as you can just bend the cover up and out of the way to complete the rest of the steps.

    Ray Bieze - Ответить

  34. Remove the bracket.
    • Remove the bracket.

  35. Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna bus connector, just left of the rear camera module. Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna bus connector, just left of the rear camera module.
    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna bus connector, just left of the rear camera module.

    There is one Step missing before removing the flash light cable: Remove Camera cable, right?

    Achim Breidenbach - Ответить

  36. Remove the two 1.2 mm tri-point screws securing the upper cable bracket.
    • Remove the two 1.2 mm tri-point screws securing the upper cable bracket.

  37. Remove the upper cable bracket. Remove the upper cable bracket.
    • Remove the upper cable bracket.

  38. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the upper cable connector. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the upper cable connector.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the upper cable connector.

  39. Remove the Phillips screws securing the Wi-Fi antenna: Three 1.2 mm screws
    • Remove the Phillips screws securing the Wi-Fi antenna:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 1.7 mm screw

    I lost one of these 1.2 mm screws. Will that affect the signal reception?

    Bethany Knaebel - Ответить

    There is another screw connecting the antenna to the case.

    tbaiello - Ответить

    How do you open the 1.7mm screw? LOL

    Kyle Victor - Ответить

    The screws are not threading in for some reason. I measured the screws to be exactly 1.2mm with a caliper.

    Loopy75 - Ответить

    Yes there are 4 x screw 3 x 1.2mm and 1x 1.7mm securing the antenna to the case

    ANDREW - Ответить

  40. Remove the top left antenna. Remove the top left antenna.
    • Remove the top left antenna.

    ** also remove the small Phillips screw fastening the WiFi antenna to the top rear casing of the phone

    iBroke - Ответить

  41. Remove the following Phillips screws:
    • Remove the following Phillips screws:

    • One 1.3 mm screw

    • One 2.2 mm screw

  42. Remove the bracket. Remove the bracket.
    • Remove the bracket.

    What's this bracket called

    Cris Velasquez - Ответить

    %#*@, lost that part during the job, thought it’d be alright without it. Couple days later figured out NFC doesn’t work anymore. Any ideas on where to get this part from, colleagues?

    azowux - Ответить

  43. Remove the 2.2 mm standoff screw from the grounding bracket.
    • Remove the 2.2 mm standoff screw from the grounding bracket.

    • Standoff screws are best removed using an iPhone Standoff Screwdriver Bit and driver handle.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

    What bit is this? The link doesn’t use the same name.

    Mike Moran - Ответить

    I didn’t even have an eyeglass repair kit flathead, so I hit the end of a paperclip with a hammer to make a flathead, and it works!

    Ark - Ответить

    I hate getting the deep into a repair to find there’s a tool missing. This bit should be part of the toolkit!

    Ark - Ответить

    I received two boxes - one box contained the repair part, the other was the tool kit. I only opened the tool kit before disassembling the phone. The standoff screwdriver bit was not in there. Neither was the guitar pick. I used a real guitar pick and a small standard screwdriver from my toolbox. When I was ready to reassemble, I opened the repair part box and guess what was in there - the standoff screwdriver bit and guitar pick. So, I guess if you just order the part it will come with (at least) those two tools. The tool kit contains tweezers, suction cup, three screwdriver bits (tri-point, pentalobe, and phillips) and screwdriver handle, a long black spudger with a flat end and a pointy end, and a smaller, thicker spudger with a wide, flat ends.

    bronyaur - Ответить

    The flat end of the spudger works a treat too.

    Robert Trammel - Ответить

  44. Use tweezers to gently bend the logic board grounding bracket out of the way. Use tweezers to gently bend the logic board grounding bracket out of the way.
    • Use tweezers to gently bend the logic board grounding bracket out of the way.

    I accidentally broke the grounding bracket, is it very important to get a new one to replace? as I can't seem to find them for sale anywhere

    Mustifa shah - Ответить

    I also broke it. Did your phone work after?

    Did you find a replacement?

    Ben Schorr - Ответить

  45. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the lower cable connector. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the lower cable connector.
    • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the lower cable connector.

  46. Remove the following screws:
    • Remove the following screws:

    • One 1.4 mm Phillips screw

    • Three 2.2 mm standoff screws

    • Standoff screws are best removed using an iPhone Standoff Screwdriver Bit and driver handle.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

    The lowest standoff screw is different than others, so be careful when reinstaling them

    dominik.balasko - Ответить

  47. Use the point of a spudger to move the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board's way. Use the point of a spudger to move the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board's way.
    • Use the point of a spudger to move the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board's way.

  48. Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery connector end of the logic board up. Make sure you're not pulling against any cables. If you feel resistance, check all cables, connectors, and components are clear of the board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery connector end of the logic board up.

    • Make sure you're not pulling against any cables. If you feel resistance, check all cables, connectors, and components are clear of the board.

  49. Lift the battery connector end of the logic board and pull it up and out of the rear case. Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables. Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables.
    • Lift the battery connector end of the logic board and pull it up and out of the rear case.

    • Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables.

    Reassembly note: Remember to tuck the logic board under the logic board grounding bracket that we loosened in step #44.

    Ark - Ответить

    Remember to remove the SIM card eject plunger (see step 47) or you may loose it seeing as there is no longer anything to stop it dropping out.

    Alex Thompson - Ответить

    stick a small bit of sellotape over the sim card plunger hole to prevent it dropping out.

    ANDREW - Ответить

  50. Remove the 2.9 mm Phillips screw from the lightning connector.
    • Remove the 2.9 mm Phillips screw from the lightning connector.

  51. Remove the spring contact from the lightning connector. Remove the spring contact from the lightning connector.
    • Remove the spring contact from the lightning connector.

    What’s the purpose of this contact? Is it just a ground?

    Josh M - Ответить

    Not sure but dont forget to place it

    Josh Brito - Ответить

  52. Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips screws securing the lightning connector cable in place.
    • Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips screws securing the lightning connector cable in place.

  53. Remove the two stickers covering the screws that secure the lightning connector to the bottom of the rear case. Remove the two stickers covering the screws that secure the lightning connector to the bottom of the rear case. Remove the two stickers covering the screws that secure the lightning connector to the bottom of the rear case.
    • Remove the two stickers covering the screws that secure the lightning connector to the bottom of the rear case.

    This step makes the whole guide invaluable! Those sneaky devils hide the screws perfectly!

    Ron Stanford - Ответить

  54. Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws from the rear case.
    • Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws from the rear case.

    What are these connectors 4? I noticed a tiny chip next to the one on the right if you're looking at the phone face-to-face and on the backside of the charging port is some heavy circuitry for the left side... If the one on the right is broken what can a person expect their phone to do differently? Is this connector on the right hand side of the charging port attributed to anything specifically? Will my phone operate as normal without this?

    billybarter - Ответить

  55. Use the pointed end of a spudger to separate the two microphones from the bottom of the rear case. Use the pointed end of a spudger to separate the two microphones from the bottom of the rear case.
    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to separate the two microphones from the bottom of the rear case.

    When reassembling, the right microphone (the one on the left in the above picture) has a metal back that has two alignment tabs. One is on the bottom left, and if you just try to push the microphone down into position it will be held up by the tab. The tab is black plastic and not real apparent unless you have some decent light on it.

    bronyaur - Ответить

    Everything popped out when I disassembled mine. I was able to get the spacers apart after the lightning connector was out. My kit came with new ones, but I just used the old ones. As the above comment states, there are alignment tabs on each one that are hard to see. Be sure to use the adhesive strips that come in the kit.

    Ray Bieze - Ответить

    May I suggest not bothering to separate the microphone , and thus avoid dmage, ..juts release the rectangular foam as a complete assembly, its just stuck to the bottom of the case each side. less risky than trying to prize off the micro phones.

    issues so far

    Ive had one small glitch so far …one the anntenas, the one nearest the battery, came off its base. Im hoping to just reconnect to base to make a contact and secure after with a spot of glue each side…

    ANDREW - Ответить

  56. Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing Lightning connector cable, making it easier to remove.
    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing Lightning connector cable, making it easier to remove.

    • Use a hairdryer or reheat your iOpener to heat the lower edge of the phone.

    • Wait for about a minute, allowing the adhesive to warm up before proceeding to the next step.

  57. Starting from the middle of the phone, slide an opening pick underneath the lightning connector to separate it from the rear case. Starting from the middle of the phone, slide an opening pick underneath the lightning connector to separate it from the rear case. Starting from the middle of the phone, slide an opening pick underneath the lightning connector to separate it from the rear case.
    • Starting from the middle of the phone, slide an opening pick underneath the lightning connector to separate it from the rear case.

  58. Continue to slide the pick towards the lightning connector to further separate the assembly from the rear case. Continue to slide the pick towards the lightning connector to further separate the assembly from the rear case. Continue to slide the pick towards the lightning connector to further separate the assembly from the rear case.
    • Continue to slide the pick towards the lightning connector to further separate the assembly from the rear case.

  59. Continue to slide the pick underneath the lightning connecter assembly. Stop sliding the pick once it passes the battery.
    • Continue to slide the pick underneath the lightning connecter assembly.

    • Stop sliding the pick once it passes the battery.

  60. Starting at the corner of the phone, slide the pick underneath the assembly towards the  lightning connector. Stop sliding the pick when it is reaches the lightning connector. Stop sliding the pick when it is reaches the lightning connector.
    • Starting at the corner of the phone, slide the pick underneath the assembly towards the lightning connector.

    • Stop sliding the pick when it is reaches the lightning connector.

  61. Gently pull the lightning connector out of its hole on the rear case. Gently pull the lightning connector out of its hole on the rear case.
    • Gently pull the lightning connector out of its hole on the rear case.

  62. Slide a pick below the lightning connector to further separate the lightning connector assembly from the rear case. Continue to slide the pick until the lightning connector assembly is no longer adhered to the rear case.
    • Slide a pick below the lightning connector to further separate the lightning connector assembly from the rear case.

    • Continue to slide the pick until the lightning connector assembly is no longer adhered to the rear case.

    Getting this thing out really wasn’t that big of a deal. Of note, if you’re also replacing the batter this is a good spot to put the new one in.

    Ray Bieze - Ответить

  63. Remove the lightning connector assembly. Before installing or replacing the Lightning connector assembly: Use a plastic tool to scour any bits of adhesive residue from the rear case.
    • Remove the lightning connector assembly.

    • Before installing or replacing the Lightning connector assembly:

    • Use a plastic tool to scour any bits of adhesive residue from the rear case.

    • Make sure the Lightning connector assembly is correctly positioned so that the two white dots on the iPhone's rear case show through the two circular cutouts in the Lightning flex cable. If they don't, the flex cable will remain misaligned and you won't be able to reconnect it to its socket on the logic board.

  64. A rubber gasket on the bottom of the Lightning connector protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. If you are installing a new Lightning connector assembly, you may need to carefully remove and transfer the gasket to the new part. The small adhesive patch on the bottom of each microphone also protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. For best results, replace the two adhesive patches before installing your Lightning connector assembly. The small adhesive patch on the bottom of each microphone also protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. For best results, replace the two adhesive patches before installing your Lightning connector assembly.
    • A rubber gasket on the bottom of the Lightning connector protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. If you are installing a new Lightning connector assembly, you may need to carefully remove and transfer the gasket to the new part.

    • The small adhesive patch on the bottom of each microphone also protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. For best results, replace the two adhesive patches before installing your Lightning connector assembly.

    It would be nice to have tips for the best way to actually apply the adheasives on the lightning assembly to beat maintain proper positioning. Otherwise, great guide!

    Casey Morton - Ответить

    agreed!! I am staring at these tiny adhesive pieces and a bit stumped!!!

    info - Ответить

    So.. my new lightning assembly had a yellow piece of plastic over the right microphone. Wasn’t sure if it was blocking the opening, so I removed it. Found a small hole in the plastic. Anyone else get one like that?

    doubt it will affect it’s function, and since the old one was bad…. can’t be worse than it was before.

    i’ll double back once it’s back together.

    Dean Allan Land - Ответить

    Plastic liners—yellow or otherwise—should definitely be peeled off and discarded before installing any new parts. You done good. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    The gasket is a pain. I’m not even convinced I did it right. The guide stops here and lets you figure out the installation on your own. You can screw yourself if the new connector isn’t placed just right as the connector won’t align. Use the old adhesive areas as guides. I had to take my new part out and install it a second time to get the cable connected. I imagine the usual error is it is too high. The connector ribbon should bend down toward the case just above the connector. Seriously, millimeters count here.

    Ray Bieze - Ответить

    I reconnected the battery to when putting the new sealer in then disconnected it before I reconnected the screen. New batteries come with a charge. It’s best to connect that last.

    Ray Bieze - Ответить

Заключение

To reassemble your device, reapply the display adhesive and follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

146 участников успешно повторили данное руководство.

Scott Havard

Участник с: 27.06.2016

37 183 Репутация

Автор 33 руководств

Комментариев: 36

The old ones were so easy! Why did Apple have to put the thing under the board!!!???

Christopher Crawford - Ответить

Prob to discourage people from replacing it themselves instead of sending to apple

Elwen Omara -

I dunno. It was a pain, but surprisingly I got mine fixed. When I took it to the apple store they flat out told me that they wouldn’t fix it at all. I couldn’t even send it in to them. Something about no communication with the logic board and they refused to touch it. Thankfully the guides are detailed enough for goofs like me to be successful.

Ray Bieze -

Ho un problema dopo aver installato il nuovo connettore. Quando l’iphone e scarico, inserendo il cavo, appare sul display il simbolo batteria. Una volta acceso il cavo non viene più segnalato e la ricarica non continua. Cosa può essere?

Fabio - Ответить

Salve ho lo stesso problema,qual è il problema?

lorenzo Serra -

Can I use this one for the Iphone 8 too ? I havent found one for the Iphone 8.

Manuel Gatti - Ответить

@manulkamul Not sure if you mean the guide or the part, but in both cases the answer is, unfortunately, no—the 8 is a different animal.

Jeff Suovanen -

broke the logic board grounding bracket on step44.. any way to replace the whole thing or fix it? the end part what you have to lift came off. thanks!!

ietse venhuizen - Ответить

I followed this guide and the microphone is still not working. Is it possible I have a bad part?

This is not my first technology fix, although first through here, and first iPhone 7.

Kristi Buysse - Ответить

Great guide, thanks for posting. Successfully changed out my lightning connector/microphone assembly.

Separate issue, the replacement part charging and microphone functions work OK, but taptic engine no longer works. (cheap eBay purchase),

Small trade off to actually be able to talk on phone calls now.

Thanks again!

ohendo - Ответить

Replaced it and now the charging port and mic don’t appear to be working. However, WiFi is working. Go figure. Any suggestions?

Noah Hayling - Ответить

Same problem

Dirk Remie -

hi there! first of all i want to say thank you, i do all my repairs through you guys, it truly helps! however, i do have an issue. after replacing the port and re assembled, my phone says unable to activate cause it needs an update, i restored it through itunes and it said unable to update because the update information could not be obtained. Im now sure if this was a problem before i replaced the port or not cause the iphone was not working. any information would be great! thanks so much!

dannythomasbooking13 - Ответить

I have an iPhone 7 and a 7 plus, does anyone know if it would be possible to take the connector from my 7 and put it into my 7 plus? I don’t want to start the process just to find out it doesn’t fit or something like it’s too small for the 7 plus?

Mekai - Ответить

Hi Mekai,

The parts are slightly different, and the iPhone 7 connector will most likely be too small to fit in your 7 plus. Here are some product links (with pictures) for the iPhone 7 and iPhone 7 Plus assemblies.

Arthur Shi -

Hello Mr.Harvard,

I recently replaced a lightning assembly on a iphone 7 plus and although I didn't feel to have run into any incidents, when I finished assembling everything, my phone stayed on “searching" for a good while and than just stayed saying ,”no service" when in fact it had no connection issues before the lightning port was replaced. What can I try to do to resolve this?

Amador Sandoval - Ответить

Hello Amador,

It sounds like an antenna issue. Make sure the antenna cables are properly connected in Step 26. Also check to make sure all connectors are seated.

Arthur Shi -

Arthur,

Thank you very much for the response. After more troubleshooting, I was able to determine that the replacement batch I received of lightning port replacements was the issue. Once I used a part from a different batch, the network issues were resolved. Thank you!

Amador Sandoval - Ответить

hi, after performing the procedure when the phone is switched on, it remains stuck on the apple. I thought it was a problem of the replacement taken on ebay, so I reassembled the old connector but does the same thing! Help me

Michele Rossi - Ответить

This is probs because there is a connector not connectie properly, I had the same problem. When I made sure I connector everything properly it worked again. There is a chance the connector on the logicboard is broken.

Dirk Remie -

I just replaced my charging port on a iPhone 7+ and it still won’t charge. Any suggestions?

Willy - Ответить

Y screw tip will work just as well as an iPhone StandOut.

Jonathan - Ответить

Your guide was thorough and got me through the difficult process of replacing an IPhone 7 charging port. I used labeled ziplock baggies for each step; attempting this complicated of a repair without labeled baggies would not have ended well. The whole effort took me about 4 hours, but the phone is back from the junk pile and works perfectly!

Jim Taksum - Ответить

Thank you! I just completed this repair in about two hours following this guide. It takes patience, but you can do it. A lighted headband magnifier is a HUGE help when I work on these kinds of things. Thanks again to ifixit for the quality parts, tools, and guides.

bronyaur - Ответить

Dopo aver rimontato tutto su un iPhone 7 tutto funziona perfettamente ma il telefono nn riesce ad agganciare la rete dal info generali riesce cmq a darmi tutte le info incluso IMEI e operatore della SIM a questo punto può essere il componente sostituito difettoso o devo pensare alla scheda madre guasta?

Angelo Grillo - Ответить

for all who’ve done these repairs, we have to All Hate & Love Apple at the same time, Hate because they do this $@$* on purpose just to be dicks, and love because they keep us in business. Sometimes I think I’d rather not be in business just because it makes people have to pay for something that can be made to be an easy fix for people… This is ALL Steve Jobs Fault Visionary and Dick to boot oh and pirate not the good kind.

Work - Ответить

Awesome guide as usual from ifixit .. Love you guys :)

Mostafa Mohammed - Ответить

Ok… so this guide is incomplete based on the repair kit I purchased. There is a bag of seals that comes with the lightning connector assembly, and most are not show in the instructions.

I’m trying to figure out where they all go…. and I’ll try and update this as I do.

Dean Allan Land - Ответить

@land08033 If you’re referring to these, it looks like they were added to the kit more recently, after the guide was published. None of them are necessary for the iPhone to function, but if installed correctly they may help maintain a higher level of dust and/or water resistance after the repair. Thanks for your comment!

Jeff Suovanen -

Great guide! This task is difficult but doable if you are careful and patient.

Hamza Taoufik Benchekroun - Ответить

Thanks for the great write up, my phone is working again now!

Phil Surtees - Ответить

Ciao, ho seguito la stessa procedura per sostituire il connettore di ricarica. Completato tutto, all’accensione l’Iphone si ferma al simbolo della mela e non va avanti. Perché? Avete esperienze in merito? Grazie

frimpa - Ответить

Bonjour,

J’ai bien suivi le tutoriel et mon soucis est que quand le iPhone est en charge, je peux prendre une petite châtaigne électrique en touchant légère ment le iPhone.

D’ou pourrais venir ce problème de terre ?

Merci

Thibault Cadet - Ответить

my connector seems too short to connect to connect to the reciever. as seen on step 45. Ive tried to slide the board but it doesnt seem to help.

cooldudefj - Ответить

First iPhone repair. Excellent instructions! Took me about 2 hours and everything works great!

Jacob Seay - Ответить

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