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Введение

Use this guide to bring life back to your iPhone 7 Plus with a new battery. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

This guide instructs you to completely detach the display assembly; this is intended to prevent damage to the display cables. If you feel comfortable removing the battery without putting undue strain on the display cables, you can skip the steps for disconnecting the display.

For optimal performance, after completing this guide, calibrate your newly installed battery: Charge it to 100% and keep charging it for at least two more hours. Then use your iPhone until it shuts off due to low battery. Finally, charge it uninterrupted to 100%.

Видео обзор

  1. Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    The recommendation of discharging the battery is completely unnecessary. Even a 25% charged battery can explode. Completely ridiculous suggestion.

    pargoff - Ответить

    The risk of thermal runaway on these batteries decreases with the battery's SOC (state of charge). Below 50% charge the risk is fairly low, and at 25% charge the risk of a thermal event is near zero. If I recall correctly, the same suggestion appears in Apple's official (non-public) service manuals for the iPhone.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    @jeffsu Yes, that is correct. Apple does require all certified staff to discharge the battery below 25%. This is an industry standard for all LiION batteries. If you don’t want to do this, just make sure to not puncture the battery and disconnect it first thing.

    Ben Meinhart - Ответить

    Hang on a second here, doesn’t the Ifixit part I ordered come with the seals? The display assembly? It doesn’t. Now I have to wait another week?!

    Vanessa Pinter - Ответить

    How do you turn off if the screen isn’t responding to touch?

    adam - Ответить

    The replacement battery came with the seal—but how do you put it on???

    lkollar - Ответить

    Instructions for replacing the seal are here: iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement

    bester - Ответить

  2. Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    How long should I use a hairdryer for?

    Warren Binder - Ответить

    I used it until it was hot to the touch but not too hot where you burn yourself.

    gczarny -

    Hey, I just took apart my first iPhone 7 plus today, and it was easier for me to use guitar picks and a magic glass tool. I did tear the home flex on the screen—now I know to be more careful of that on disassembly—-~Katrina of iPad Rehab Microsoldering

    jessabethany - Ответить

    First I tried to remove the screen with the hot iOpener, but it doesn’t worked, the day after I putted the Iphone in the sun for a while and then used the hot iOpener, then the screen was easy to remove :-)

    Marc Boon - Ответить

    Get a T-shirt add heat to a lil corner of it, with either a hair straighter or an Iron , touch the T-shirt if it’s seems hot but doesn’t burn u hold that lil hot piece of T-shirt against the edge ur trying to pry open , if it’s still not opening add a I’ll more heat,

    www.tertlegerl - Ответить

    I don’t think the iOpener was effective at softening the adhesive. Using a suction cup and the spudger is good enough.

    Mac - Ответить

    I took a hot water bottle and layed it on the display of the iPhone for a minute, because I did not have an iOpener. That worked for me perfect.

    Michael Maier - Ответить

  3. Apply a suction cup to the lower half  of the front panel, just above the home button. Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.
    • Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

    • If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

    Hi! My suction cup doesn’t work. It won’t strongly suck on my screen. Does anyone have any advice?

    kaiminliu119 - Ответить

    Heat it up just a little with a hair dryer make sure it’s flat , let it coo a bit now try it??

    robertread - Ответить

  4. Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case. Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap. The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.
    • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

    • Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.

    • While pulling up on the suction cup, twist the spudger to widen the opening between the screen and rear case.

    Be very careful not to pull up with too much force. My screen just shattered while I was pulling up with my suction cup. (There were no previous cracks or chips or anything).

    Benjamin Pounds - Ответить

    I’m stuck on this part. I’ve heated the bottom up and attached the suction cup right above the home button, but I can’t pull it apart. I feel like I’m going to break the glass display. Tips?

    whtafrcn420 - Ответить

    Someone mentioned above, using strong tape helps .

    MajorCouillon - Ответить

    You won’t be able to put the spudger into the gap unless the phone is in a vertical position (speaker side up) in your hands.

    Mac - Ответить

    read steps 4-9 before attempting. I cracked my glass because I didn’t

    David Lei - Ответить

  5. Insert the flat end of the spudger between the front panel and the rear case at the lower left edge of the iPhone. Slide the spudger up the left edge of the phone starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place. Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.
    • Insert the flat end of the spudger between the front panel and the rear case at the lower left edge of the iPhone.

    • Slide the spudger up the left edge of the phone starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.

    • Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.

  6. Remove the spudger from the left side of the phone and insert the flat end into the bottom right corner. Slide the spudger up the right edge of the phone to the top corner, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.
    • Remove the spudger from the left side of the phone and insert the flat end into the bottom right corner.

    • Slide the spudger up the right edge of the phone to the top corner, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.

  7. Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone. Do not raise the display more than 10º as there are delicate ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.
    • Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone.

    • Do not raise the display more than 10º as there are delicate ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.

  8. Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel. Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
    • Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

  9. Slide an opening pick underneath the display along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive. Slide an opening pick underneath the display along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.
    • Slide an opening pick underneath the display along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.

  10. Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case. Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book. Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
    • Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    So if I broke the cable that connects the display to the logic board. What replacement part would I need to order now?

    Robert Danson - Ответить

    Probably the screen

    Christian Sirolli -

  11. Remove the following four tri-point Y000 screws securing the lower display cable bracket to the logic board:
    • Remove the following four tri-point Y000 screws securing the lower display cable bracket to the logic board:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 2.6 mm screw

    Is it really safe to lay the device fully open like a book? The cable leading to the LCD gets stretched across the sharp edge of the aluminum edge of the back cover.

    u204863 - Ответить

    Generally I'd say no, it's not safe. In reality I've seen a bit of variance in the cable length, and sometimes it'll be fine—but mostly I'd be prepared to prop the display up or hold it in place at a slight angle so it doesn't put too much stress on the cables. On prior iPhones it was easy to rubberband the display to a box or a can of soda, and something like that would probably work well here too. Use your own judgment.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    You could stick the suction cup back on, near the right side of the phone, with the blue hook oriented in such a way that it becomes a stand for the screen. That way it won’t open much more than 90 degrees, and leaves both your hands free.

    Mark -

    The tri wing screws are so hard to remove. What's the trick?

    shannon caldwell - Ответить

    At first I think I was being too careful and was getting no where. I got better results by pressing down on the screwdriver with more pressure while turning and those little screws came right out.

    LadyTech - Ответить

    I cannot remove one of the corner screws in this step and i have used the tweezers and the y000 tri tip and i am afraid that it is stripping it. is there a work around for this step?

    Katherine Monday - Ответить

    @katmonday1 No workaround unfortunately. Make sure the driver tip is in good condition and fits the screw correctly. Seat it in the screw, hold the driver perfectly vertical, press down hard (and maintain it), and turn. It’ll come out. If it’s really stripped you’ll have to get more aggressive—try one or more of the techniques in this guide or get some help. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    my screwdriver will only remove the 2.6mm screw and not the others, what shall i do?

    AubreyG1 - Ответить

    A tip to remember which screw is which as the differences are pretty tiny: I used different colored sharpie fine-points and made a mark on the top of the screws before removing. I thought about having strips of tape that I stuck similar sizes to, but the coloring seemed to work more easily. I only did this for step 11 and it saved me down the road when trying to differentiate the 1.2 and the 1.3mm screws!

    Trey Smith - Ответить

  12. Remove the lower display cable bracket. Remove the lower display cable bracket.
    • Remove the lower display cable bracket.

    I am confused, please help. LOL the bracket, the very first one being removed. I see it has three screws the same size and one a different size? I've been trying to fix my daughter's phone and ordered a 0.6 mm Tri Wing screwdriver for iPhone 7 plus /Apple watch. It seems to fit the screws and it seems to be turning them although I can't see that well but they're not coming out. However when I used it on a smaller bracket with two screws they came right out so I'm thinking I don't have the right screwdriver I am at my Wit's End!! I have been working on this phone or attempting to for a while now. I cannot find a list anywhere of the exact size screwdrivers needed to Take apart an iPhone 7 plus. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    chris west - Ответить

    If your tri-wing screwdriver worked for other tri-point screws in the phone, then it should work for the screws you are struggling with! If it feels like the screws are spinning but not coming out, try to use tweezers to pull them out. I often struggle with tri-point screws, and need to apply some downward pressure to remove them. This can be risky though, as you do not want to strip the screw or damage components underneath the bracket. If you continue to struggle, you can give this driver and this bit a try.

    Scott Havard - Ответить

    Also be aware that the battery connector might stick to the bottom of the steel bracket. This part had me a bit puzzled at first. lol

    Just gently pry the connector off the steel bracket to release it and be sure the connector isn’t allowed to accidentally reconnect to the board.

    jeffrey griffith - Ответить

    I had to use a fingernail to dislodge the bracket. As Jeffrey said, it was apparently stuck to the connector.

    lkollar - Ответить

  13. Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board. Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to  the phone. Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to  the phone.
    • Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone.

    You could cover the battery socket with a small piece of tape to make sure that it doesn’t accidentally re-connect. It’s not likely to, but I liked the peace of mind.

    Mark - Ответить

    on reassembly, make sure that the connector cable is back in place, along side the battery, and not up, or on top in any way.

    Sarr Sheffer - Ответить

    I slipped a small piece of paper under the flap.

    MajorCouillon - Ответить

    After this step it is worth jumping to step 36 and disconnecting the lighting connector assembly (indicated with the orange rectangle) and connecting the new cable to test it out. After attaching the new lightning connector assembly, reattach the battery, and try plugging it in to see if the new assembly works correctly. If it does, then power down the phone, disconnect the battery, and disconnect the new lightning connector assembly. Then continue. If it doesn’t work, this check will save you a couple of hours of work.

    Evan O - Ответить

  14. Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step. Use the flat end of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board. To re-attach press connectors, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.
    • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board.

    • To re-attach press connectors, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

    • If you have a blank screen, white lines on the display, or partial or complete lack of touch response after reassembling your phone, try disconnecting and carefully reconnecting both of these cables and make sure they are fully seated.

    The note about the danger of pressing on the connector incorrectly is very legitimate. Though I find it more practical to use a wide (1.5 cm) case opener tool to press it down all at once. Minimizes risk of bending the connector.

    Talon - Ответить

    What can happen if the battery is not disconnected before the two lower display connectors?

    Alextay - Ответить

    Hello, by my expierence and what i have learned iphone repair videos you can ‘blow up’ capacitors which one in logic board, screen is sensetive with voltages and etc….

    Darius Varanavičius -

    what are my options if the display connector broke? can it be replaced or do I need to get a whole new screen?

    matomach - Ответить

    When I removed the lower display cable bracket in step 12, the top connector stuck to the bracket and became disconnected.

    Grant Crawford - Ответить

    My replacement screen wouldn't sit in the display connector properly, (wouldn't clip in both sides at same time) so I made sure it sat on one and it was lined up and got a thin piece of dense sponge and placed that over the connector, then proceeded to install the connector shield and screen works perfectly fine without a hitch. Very good tutorial just earnt me £25 lol

    Joshua Driscoll - Ответить

    have the same issue, sometimes it doesn’t sit on the left side, other time not on the other, the difference is iphone not starting at all or looping with apple logo reboot…

    ibisiki -

  15. Remove the three tri-point Y000 screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector: One 1.3 mm screw Two 1.0 mm screws
    • Remove the three tri-point Y000 screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector:

    • One 1.3 mm screw

    • Two 1.0 mm screws

    • Remove the bracket.

    Posted a comment above on the first step. The screwdriver that I ordered Works taking out these two screens shown in the picture. However it does not work on the first bracket that needs to be removed. It seems that all screw sizes are somewhat different but I'm not finding a list showing different screwdriver sizes needed. Does this make sense? Could anybody please give me some advice on this thank you much.

    chris west - Ответить

    I know your comment was posted a long time ago but just in case someone else has the same problem, the only difference in the screws are the lengths. The ends are the same.

    mcr4u2 - Ответить

    What happens if you break “tear in half” the black tape stuff?

    assweeetasyou - Ответить

    Unfortunately if you tear the black cable you will need to replace it !!!

    Wayne Lyell -

    Chris West the screwdriver that probably came with the kit was pentalobe to get the first two screws out to open the case. you need a .6mm Y tip driver for internal. its deceptively Phillips looking but is not it only has three blades in a Y, not 4 in a +

    Jeremiah Kjensmo - Ответить

    I called the y tip a triangle tip until I read these comments. Thanks for the correction

    Kayla Tobin -

    Hello is it if I put wrong screw can damage the board?

    alicenine84 - Ответить

    Care should be taken while removing the last 1.0mm screw, on the far right in the picture. This screw is screwed into another screw (or standoff) beneath the bracket. This standoff may come unscrewed and upon removing the bracket you may find the screw and standoff are still attached to the bracket. Do not lose this part if you decide to separate them , the standoff is not a normal phillips, and may require a special driver to reinstall. I used the phillips to start it back in, and relied on the screw to tighten it upon reassembly.

    Benji - Ответить

    I know this is late bit a trick I use to put the standoffs in (had to do 2 cause someone lost the screws I was replacing) is to take the screw that goes in it srew them together loosely to give it a fake phillips head then gently screw both into the spot the standoff goes in. you can then take the phillips out (may need to put a spudger between the screw and standoff to keep the standoff down then use a tiny flathead to gently tighten the standoff down. its a few steps but makes life easier if you need to replace it quickly.

    Stephen Patterson -

    I was able to remove the first 1.0 mm three tri-point Y000 screw from the bracket but I cannot for the life of me get the other 1.0 mm screw undone or the one 1.3 mm screw undone. Any tips?

    I tried pressing down a bit harder and I even put the first screw back in to see if it helped me loosen the other two but it did not work.

    My screwdriver was doing the job up until this point, and I’m worried I’ll strip the screw if I keep trying.

    Would appreciate any advice!

    jrosegoep - Ответить

  16. Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board. This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.
    • Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.

    Make sure that the orientation of the cable when you attach is correct! See the picture for the correct orientation. If it gets installed 180 degrees out(i.e., the ribbon goes up instead of down, then the earphone, front camera, and Home button will be inoperative. Ask me how I know!?! Worked great when installed correctly!

    Kevin Reilly - Ответить

    I also made this mistake! Thank goodness it didn’t break anything.

    That Guy - Ответить

  17. Remove the display assembly.

    When removing the old adhesive from the edges, duct tape can be useful. Simply use small strips of duct tape and your spudger to press the tape’s adhesive side carefully into the edges of the phone’s display and slowly peel the duct tape away from the display. The duct tape should pick up the remaining adhesive and carry it away from the edges. use the tip of the spudger to gently scrape away any remaining dirt or film from the crease around the edge and repeat the action with a new strip of tape to pick up any dirt, adhesive or grime from the surface. This should save considerable time.

    Benji - Ответить

    Thank you for including a link to the iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement guide, this was very helpful!

    Robert O'Brien - Ответить

  18. Remove the following two Phillips screws securing the barometric vent to the rear case:
    • Remove the following two Phillips screws securing the barometric vent to the rear case:

    • One 2.9 mm screw

    • One 2.1 mm screw

    I skipped this step and go straight to step 25. I skipped it because I couldn’t get the screws to come off. But skipping those step did not prevent me or has any detrimental effects on performing step 25.

    Jamie Liao - Ответить

    I agree, I don’t see any reason to remove the Taptic engine to remove the battery…It seems like more of a chance of screwing something else up…keep it simple…

    William Karis - Ответить

    If you’re replacing the battery, removing the Taptic Engine gives you a much better chance of removing the battery adhesive strips successfully. To keep them from snagging and breaking, you want to pull them from as low an angle as possible. With the Taptic Engine in the way, you have to pull them at almost 90 degrees, or risk snagging them on the Taptic Engine.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    i can’t get the 2.1 screw 2 come out pls help anyone

    John Bryce - Ответить

    I agree with Jamie Liao above. Skips steps 18-24 as described. Before proceeding with step 25, I heated a microwavable hot/cold compress (used to treat muscle strains). I set the iPhone back casing on the heated compress before pulling out the adhesive strips.

    Again, there is no need to do steps 18 through 24.

    Thomas Young - Ответить

  19. Gently push the barometric vent in the direction of the Taptic Engine to separate the adhesive securing it to the bottom edge of the iPhone. Gently push the barometric vent in the direction of the Taptic Engine to separate the adhesive securing it to the bottom edge of the iPhone.
    • Gently push the barometric vent in the direction of the Taptic Engine to separate the adhesive securing it to the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    Adhesive may require a tiny amount of tugging of the barometric vent to free it…

    Sarr Sheffer - Ответить

  20. Remove the vent.
    • Remove the vent.

  21. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine connector from its socket on the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine connector from its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine connector from its socket on the logic board.

  22. Remove the three 1.5 mm Phillips screws securing the Taptic Engine to the rear case.
    • Remove the three 1.5 mm Phillips screws securing the Taptic Engine to the rear case.

    what do you do if the top left screw is not coming out?

    Karrington Dowe - Ответить

  23. Remove the Taptic Engine. Remove the Taptic Engine.
    • Remove the Taptic Engine.

  24. Peel back the three adhesive strips on the lower edge of the battery. If possible, use your fingernails or blunt tweezers. Be careful not to poke the battery with any sharp tools. If possible, use your fingernails or blunt tweezers. Be careful not to poke the battery with any sharp tools.
    • Peel back the three adhesive strips on the lower edge of the battery.

    • If possible, use your fingernails or blunt tweezers. Be careful not to poke the battery with any sharp tools.

    Use a fingernail to get one corner started, then the flat end of a spudger does a good job of getting the rest.

    lkollar - Ответить

  25. Try to keep the strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly. Slowly pull one battery adhesive tab away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone. Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip until it slips out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strip at a 60º angle or less.
    • Try to keep the strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly.

    • Slowly pull one battery adhesive tab away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.

    • Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip until it slips out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strip at a 60º angle or less.

    • The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling and re-grab the strip near the battery if necessary.

  26. Repeat the previous step for the second and third strips. Hold down the battery as you remove the final strip, or the strip may fling the battery when it separates from the case.
    • Repeat the previous step for the second and third strips.

    • Hold down the battery as you remove the final strip, or the strip may fling the battery when it separates from the case.

    • If you removed all adhesive strips successfully, skip the next step.

    • Otherwise, if any of the adhesive strips broke off underneath the battery and could not be retrieved, continue with the next step below.

  27. If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, remove it by adding a few drops of isopropyl alcohol (90% or greater) underneath the battery near the stuck strip(s). After about a minute, gently lift the battery. Do not insert your spudger in the area between the volume down (-) button and the top edge of the battery, or you may damage the volume control cable lying underneath.
    • If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, remove it by adding a few drops of isopropyl alcohol (90% or greater) underneath the battery near the stuck strip(s).

    • After about a minute, gently lift the battery.

    • Do not insert your spudger in the area between the volume down (-) button and the top edge of the battery, or you may damage the volume control cable lying underneath.

    • Do not pry against the logic board or you may damage the phone.

    • Don't try to forcefully lever the battery out. If needed, apply a few more drops of alcohol to further weaken the adhesive. Never deform or puncture the battery with your pry tool.

    • If the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery. It should be slightly too warm to touch comfortably.

    • Overheating the iPhone may ignite the battery.

    • A piece of dental floss may be used to separate the battery from the rear case. A stronger alternative to dental floss is an unwound guitar string, such as a 0.009 E string from a 12-string set. Thread the floss or string behind the upper battery corners, bring the ends together, wrap them around a folded cloth, and pull evenly.

  28. Remove the battery.
    • Remove the battery.

    • If your replacement battery came in a plastic sleeve, remove the sleeve before installation by pulling it away from the ribbon cable.

    • If there's any alcohol solution remaining in the phone, carefully wipe it off or allow it to air dry before installing your new battery.

    • Before you adhere the replacement battery, temporarily reconnect the battery connector to the logic board socket. This ensures that the battery is properly aligned in its recess.

    • Adhere the battery, disconnect it, and continue reassembling your device.

    • If your new battery doesn’t have adhesive preinstalled, refer to this guide to replace the adhesive strips.

    • Perform a force restart after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

    When it came time to adhere the new battery in place, I realized there was a little space on all sides of the battery. I wasn’t sure how to position it, so I just centered it. But when I went to reattach the connector back to the logic board, it wasn’t aligned. I had to remove part of the strips and was able to salvage enough adhesive to reposition it. It was frustrating and I think giving people a heads up in future would be helpful. Maybe this is noted somewhere, but if it is, I missed it.

    I’m super pleased with the process otherwise. And with a new battery, it’s like I have a new phone!

    Philip Kendall - Ответить

    If you bought the glue strip for the display, you have to place it before you reconnect the display to assemble the iPhone to the back shell. Be careful while removing the plastic protection, the glue will stick at the protection foil.

    Michael Maier - Ответить

Заключение

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or search our Answers forum for help.

276 участников успешно повторили данное руководство.

Scott Havard

Участник с: 27.06.2016

44 515 Репутация

Автор 33 руководств

Комментариев: 36

can the battery from iPhone 7plus fit in the 6s plus? looks to me like is the same type of connector and same dimensions so it would be an easy way to gain 150 extra mah by using the iphone 7 plus battery

Alex

alexandrupaulpopa - Ответить

No, because the size are diferents

JOSE RAMON -

Of course you can! WHY NOT?

Manuel Tugentman - Ответить

How can I attach the screen back to the body after replacing the old battery,do i need any adhesive to attach the screen to the body?

Kaustubh Iyer - Ответить

Not necessarily.

Anan Venasakulchai -

Do I need any adhesive to attach the screen back to the body after replacing the old battery with a new one?

Kaustubh Iyer - Ответить

The display is held in with screws and clips, so everything will work fine if you reassemble the phone without replacing the adhesive. That said, your phone won't be as waterproof as it used to be. We do have replacement adhesive available for you, but we're still working on putting together a clear guide on how to install it properly. (Stay tuned!)

Jeff Suovanen -

no, you can use the same, unless you dont use the hairdryer/iOpener, then you will have to use a special adhesive

Vitor Hugo Tramontini -

Yesterday I'm buyed new iPhone 7plus

I have kept 100%charging

I have not used the phone

The charging will decreasing automatically

Wt is the reason I want

Hanuman - Ответить

Will this break it’s water resistance?

AdamTGG - Ответить

Yep. It’s not worth the risk. Just take the device to an Apple Store and pay the $80. That way you not only have a water resistant device, you also have a 90 day warranty on the battery AND the work performed on it. So if the phone’s water resistance fails because of the adhesive, Apple will replace the device without any additional cost.

rifster2001 -

the glue around the body must be put before reassembling the connectors of the display unit or after ?

Giulio Montanaro - Ответить

Sooo…in Step 24, DO NOT use the metal-tipped tweezers to “jam” under the Battery and try to pry up on it. You WILL risk puncturing the battery and catching the iPhone on fire.

richhowell - Ответить

I’ve replaced the battery. But it won’t turn back on? I can’t force restart it because my fingerprint button doesn’t work? Can you help?

jordiehowes - Ответить

Mine did the same thing, what do I do?

Riley Clark -

I did it and now my Iphone shows No service and the cellular option in Settings is completly blank. Anyone knows what can I do?

eduardgr5 - Ответить

Excelente guia he completado el trabajo, muy util para no aprender hechando a perder los equipos, los soguientes seran pan comido, saludos muchas gracias

Sergio Villanueva - Ответить

Is the battery Apple genuine

Jordan Mohammed - Ответить

when you open up the phone you might think that you don’t need to remove the Taptic Engine for the battery change. But when the adhesive breaks and you will need more space to pull the remaining adhesive out.

Don’t skip the steps.

Francis Zhao - Ответить

on ios 13.4 after replacing the battery the phone is indicating recharging but the % never goes up try with and older apple original same thing reinstalled my battery that i wanted to replaced and it recharge % goes up

Michel Jauvin - Ответить

Procedure rating is difficult. Very capable person here. I used to replace cracked screens on the 3 and 3S all the time when I was a lower end SE at my old software dev employer. (I had replaced everything on the 3s, home button, camera, battery, screen, etc.) Granted it's a different phone today, but I'm cautious, careful, and patient. Off the bat I cracked the screen because the instructions said to "twist the spudger to widen the opening". Tuck me. Crack spread out from the home button to ear piece. I used a Dyson hair dryer for 45 seconds to heat up phone base. After the crack I taped the screen w box packing tape to keep glass from going all over. Removal was fine after that. Didnt need additional heat, but it doesn't matter. Separated the phone and didn't bother replacing the battery now that I need a $75 screen. Using work phone as only phone for now.

Michael Healey - Ответить

After almost 3 and 1/2 years my wife’s and my batteries were at 77% capacity. Fresh batteries installed in both.

Michael - Ответить

so i replaced the battery, speaker and front camera/proximity sensor and now my phone is acting crazy. It randomly shuts down, no vibration, no sound, no wifi, and cant hear anyone when i call. What did i do? I work at a computer repair shop so this is kind of embarrassing….

Anthony Fieno - Ответить

So….my experience: Completed installation, Home button didn’t work. <Reason: Installed the connector in Step 16 upside-down>. Now ok, but….Fingerprint ID doesn’t work. Any thoughts?

trajan68 - Ответить

Great guide I felt so accomplished after replacing my battery

germaine andrew - Ответить

I used 2 iFixit kits to replace batteries in an iPhone 7 Plus and an iPhone X this week. Both jobs went smoothly, thanks to these online guides. The batteries showed 100% capacity with 0 cycles in coconutBattery Plus readouts. The batteries even were recognized by iOS as “Apple” batteries in the Settings/Battery app. This is a huge change as previous iFixit batteries I have installed were not recognized by iOS. Both iFixit kits contained all the exact tools needed, plus perimeter gaskets to reseal the screen to the body. The iPhone X kit even contained a new speaker gasket. Wow! iFixit is the best resource for Apple do-it-yourselfers. Thank you!

jescott3 - Ответить

hi guys i just wanted to ask whether u need 2 have the battery below 25% or can i start before?

John Bryce - Ответить

I replaced my battery but after I could hear any incoming calls on the ear speaker, can anyone help?

Feria - Ответить

Replaced the battery and the rear camera module in 30 minutes, great guide and replacement parts. Thank you iFixit

Georgi Ivanov - Ответить

Replacement successful. Didn’t attach adhesive yet. But i replaced the battery. Tip. Removing screws is easy but putting back in is a pain. If the screw is not fitting on the end of your screwdriver. Your using the wrong screwdriver. Realizing this makes it way easier

athomas101 - Ответить

Guide is really clear, took a little bit of time to clean the gunk from the adhesive from the phone to get the phone back together, but the ifixit battery fell in place perfectly and I’m happy overall with how the phone got back together.

Sven Sanchez - Ответить

Thank you! Like a glove! Correction: STEP 15 - Need Phillips screw driver

Victor Sea - Ответить

Shouldn't we use the adhesive on the battery while reassembling?

ديفاسيا جون ديفاسيا - Ответить

I replaced my battery and now my phone is stuck in Reboot loop. What’s the issue?

alexander koburov - Ответить

Worked Perfectly!!! Thank you guys so much, $30 for a new battery AND tools, cannot beat that!

Dustin Steward - Ответить

I need some help, please. The battery on my iPhone 7 plus swelled (not original ) so I bought a replacement and I changed it, at first it wasn’t charging even though it was showing as it was, the percentage still the same, then it started to do some funny things like draining the battery, going from 83 to 20 in a minute, and then it was impossible to use as it was restarting all the time. I thought something wasn’t connected properly or maybe I damaged something when I replaced it, I tried many times but it was doing the same. I put back the old swelled battery and it was fine, so I realised the battery was faulty, so Ive got a new replacement and its doing the same…. the only difference that I can see between the new replacements and swelled one is the APN number being 616-00249 and the old one 616-00250 but i’m not sure if that has anything to do with this problem…

Sol Portanova - Ответить

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