Перейти к основному содержанию

Введение

Use this guide to replace the Lightning connector assembly in your iPhone 8 Plus, which can resolve many charging and connectivity issues.

  1. Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.5 mm pentalobe screws from the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    what do I do about super stripped screws?

    Ean Palacios - Ответить

    I’m sorry, your comment slipped past my radar earlier. For future fixers that might see this and ask the same question, you can check out our stripped screw guide for some detailed advice.

    Adam O'Camb -

    Do you need a toolkit like the essential toolkit

    Adam Palmer - Ответить

    Hi Adam. Having a tool kit with all of the listed parts above is best. The screw heads are very small and each set of screws needs a very specific type of driver to remove them without stripping any of them.

    Kyle Luksa -

  2. Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about 90 seconds in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

  3. Apply a suction cup to the lower half  of the front panel, just above the home button. Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.
    • Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

    • If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

    Warning ! If you pull too hard (reheat the underside of the display again), you create an gap of air between the glass and the lcd display !

    When you replace the display assembly you end up with gray stains on the display.

    Result: you have to buy a new display (assembly).

    Arnoud - Ответить

    Using just the single suction cup that is included in the battery replacement kit probably wouldn’t open the device. An iOpener and an iSlack should be the recommended method. However, you can get it open with just the single suction cup and iOpener, but does take a lot of time.

    Get an iOpener and iSlack with the battery replacement kit.

    Chris - Ответить

    I used a flat x-acto (#18) blade knife tool to gently pry back the screen enough to allow me to insert the pick near the bottom corner. I then worked the pick under the screen as mentioned in steps 5 & 6 below then. This worked really well for me.

    Kyle Luksa - Ответить

    I used the suction cup without heating the phone - the adhesive came away quite easily without applying any heat. Maybe due to age of phone (nearly 4 years old). Worth trying.

    Ben Vinnerd - Ответить

  4. Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case. Insert an opening pick or other thin pry tool a few millimeters into the gap. The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.
    • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

    • Insert an opening pick or other thin pry tool a few millimeters into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

    After multiple tries and using a very hot iOpener, it will not open.

    Kenneth Ewald, Sr. - Ответить

    In sheer frustration, I pulled out my trusty pocket knife and managed to lift the bottom of the screen slightly, but in the process, cracked the glass from the bottom to the home button. The case is open now.

    Kenneth Ewald, Sr. - Ответить

  5. Slide your pick around the corner and up the left edge of the phone, moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place. Stop near the top left corner of the display. Stop near the top left corner of the display.
    • Slide your pick around the corner and up the left edge of the phone, moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.

    • Stop near the top left corner of the display.

  6. Re-insert your tool at the lower right corner of the iPhone, and slide it around the corner and up the right side of the phone to separate the adhesive. Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel. Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.
    • Re-insert your tool at the lower right corner of the iPhone, and slide it around the corner and up the right side of the phone to separate the adhesive.

    • Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

    I had really good luck using a hairdryer on some of the more stubborn portions of adhesive.

    Jessica Kirsh - Ответить

  7. Gently pull up on the suction cup to lift up the bottom edge of the display.
    • Gently pull up on the suction cup to lift up the bottom edge of the display.

    • Do not raise the display more than 15º or you'll risk straining or tearing the ribbon cables connecting the display.

  8. Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
    • Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

  9. Slide an opening pick underneath the display along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive. Slide an opening pick underneath the display along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive. Slide an opening pick underneath the display along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.
    • Slide an opening pick underneath the display along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.

  10. Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case. Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.
    • Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

  11. Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book. Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board. Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    • Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    Das “links” ist auf dem Foto rechts.

    Matze Diamond - Ответить

    Das ist falsch. Wenn man auf das iPhone sieht, ist der Home Button unten. Auf dem Photo ist deutlich sichtbar, dass die linke Seite angehoben wird.

    Hans - Ответить

    • Remove four Phillips (JIS) screws securing the lower display cable bracket to the logic board, of the following lengths:

    • Two 1.3 mm screws

    • One 1.4 mm screw

    • One 2.7 mm screw

    • Throughout this guide, keep careful track of your screws so that each one goes back where it came from during reassembly. Installing a screw in the wrong place can cause permanent damage.

  12. Remove the lower display cable bracket.
    • Remove the lower display cable bracket.

  13. Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board. Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to  the phone during your repair.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

    When I reassembled the iPhone 8 Plus, I had to plug it into a Lightning cable to wake it up (just pushing power button wasn’t sufficient).

    browniestarmite - Ответить

  14. Use the tip of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the large lower display connector by prying it straight up from its socket. To re-attach press connectors like this one, press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.
    • Use the tip of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the large lower display connector by prying it straight up from its socket.

    • To re-attach press connectors like this one, press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

    I got hold of a iPhone 8 Plus with cracked screen that I am planning to fix.

    Here is my problem:

    When I tried to take out the screen from my phone, (step 15-18) I was curious about the new screen, so I tried to connect it. It was completely dead! Then I tried the old cracked one, and suddenly that was dead to! This is a phone that some fool has been inside earlier and changed battery, but I suspect he has done some more really stupid things. The Taptic Engine is living its own life and vibrating every time I slightly touch the home button. (I have a new Taptic Engine) The phone is also full of dust and small particles that does not belong there. One tri-point Y000 screw (step 18) is even missing! Now the biggest problem is that both screens are black! I know the phone is on, because I hear voice command speak when I turn on the power. The screen worked before I tried to change it? And one last thing: My new LCD screen came with new flex cables. Is it possible to switch over, so I can use the old ones?

    smikalsen - Ответить

    Hi,

    Is your problem solved?

    Daniel Leprince -

  15. Disconnect the second lower display cable connector, directly behind the one you disconnected in the previous step. Disconnect the second lower display cable connector, directly behind the one you disconnected in the previous step.
    • Disconnect the second lower display cable connector, directly behind the one you disconnected in the previous step.

    I used the other end of the spudger on this connector and it seemed to work a little better for me. I came in from underneath the top-right edge instead of the bottom right.

    Jessica Kirsh - Ответить

  16. Remove the two tri-point Y000 screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector: One 1.0 mm screw
    • Remove the two tri-point Y000 screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector:

    • One 1.0 mm screw

    • One 1.2 mm screw

    una vite da 1mm e due viti da 1.2 mm???

    Matteo Carachino - Ответить

    Ciao Matteo! Grazie per l’osservazione. Ho appena modificato il testo :) La traduzione è aperta a tutti. Hai quindi la possibilità di fare le tue suggestione direttamente nel testo e sei il benvenuto se vuoi usare di questa possibilità nel futuro. Grazie ancora per la vigilanza! Saluti, Claire

    Claire Miesch -

    The tool kit does include a 1.0 or1.2mm screwdriver! How am I supposed to remove those screws?

    peter frommer - Ответить

    Bought the screwdriver that supposedly fits these screws and it still doesn’t work.

    hypercarduser - Ответить

    My bracket looks different. Can’t get these screws out.

    Ray Rushing - Ответить

  17. Remove the bracket covering the front panel sensor assembly connector.
    • Remove the bracket covering the front panel sensor assembly connector.

  18. Use the tip of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket. Use the tip of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket.

  19. Remove the display assembly.
  20. Remove the two Y000 screws securing the rear camera connector cover bracket: One 1.4 mm screw
    • Remove the two Y000 screws securing the rear camera connector cover bracket:

    • One 1.4 mm screw

    • One 1.4 mm (nonferrous) screw

    • This screw tends to not be attracted to a magnetized screwdriver. Make sure to reinstall it in the correct place—a magnetized screw may interfere with the compass.

  21. Remove the bracket.
    • Remove the bracket.

    • Remove the two screws securing the rear camera module cover plate:

    • One 1.8 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.7 mm (nonferrous) standoff screw

    • Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage nearby components.

    Yeah, the flathead screw driver is not really a good option for the standoff screwdriver bit. I managed to remove the standoff screws easily enough, but replacing them with the flathead was laborious.

    andystills - Ответить

  22. Remove the cover plate from the rear camera module.
    • Remove the cover plate from the rear camera module.

  23. Use an iFixit opening tool or a fingernail to disconnect the two camera cable connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets. Use an iFixit opening tool or a fingernail to disconnect the two camera cable connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets. Use an iFixit opening tool or a fingernail to disconnect the two camera cable connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets.
    • Use an iFixit opening tool or a fingernail to disconnect the two camera cable connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets.

  24. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the rear-facing camera assembly from the top edge of the iPhone. If you have trouble, switch to the point of your spudger and lever the camera out from its top right corner. If you have trouble, switch to the point of your spudger and lever the camera out from its top right corner.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the rear-facing camera assembly from the top edge of the iPhone.

    • If you have trouble, switch to the point of your spudger and lever the camera out from its top right corner.

  25. Remove the rear-facing camera assembly.
    • Remove the rear-facing camera assembly.

  26. Remove three Phillips screws securing the upper left antenna component:
    • Remove three Phillips screws securing the upper left antenna component:

    • Two 1.3 mm screws

    • One 3.1 mm screw

  27. Remove the 1.3 mm Phillips screw securing the antenna component to the top edge of the rear case.
    • Remove the 1.3 mm Phillips screw securing the antenna component to the top edge of the rear case.

  28. The screw boss at the top of the antenna component is tucked into a small recess in the top edge of the iPhone. Tilt the antenna component up towards the top of the phone. Slide the screw boss down and out of its recess.
    • The screw boss at the top of the antenna component is tucked into a small recess in the top edge of the iPhone.

    • Tilt the antenna component up towards the top of the phone.

    • Slide the screw boss down and out of its recess.

  29. Remove the top left antenna component.
    • Remove the top left antenna component.

  30. Remove the three screws securing the L-shaped bracket next to the Taptic Engine: One 1.3 mm Y000 screw
    • Remove the three screws securing the L-shaped bracket next to the Taptic Engine:

    • One 1.3 mm Y000 screw

    • One 2.6 mm Phillips screw

    • One 3.5 mm Phillips screw

    De Y000 schroef nam meteen ook de  2.4 mm standoff-schroef aan de achterzijde mee. Wat lastig om die uit elkaar te halen.

    nilsplackle - Ответить

  31. Remove the bracket.
    • Remove the bracket.

  32. Use an opening pick to gently separate the adhered portion of the antenna flex cable from the top surface of the speaker. This portion of the flex cable is lightly adhered in place. If necessary, apply a little heat from an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive. This makes it easier to separate (and re-adhere) the flex cable safely. This portion of the flex cable is lightly adhered in place. If necessary, apply a little heat from an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive. This makes it easier to separate (and re-adhere) the flex cable safely.
    • Use an opening pick to gently separate the adhered portion of the antenna flex cable from the top surface of the speaker.

    • This portion of the flex cable is lightly adhered in place. If necessary, apply a little heat from an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive. This makes it easier to separate (and re-adhere) the flex cable safely.

    should i be worried if the piece with the two holes broke off

    Robert Quinn - Ответить

  33. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna flex cable from the logic board. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna flex cable from the logic board.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna flex cable from the logic board.

  34. Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the other end of the antenna flex cable from its socket, next to the Lightning Port. Reconnecting this cable can be tricky. Make it easier by using your tweezers to hold the flex cable so the connector aligns with its socket. Then, gently press down on the connector with the flat of your spudger until it clicks into place. Reconnecting this cable can be tricky. Make it easier by using your tweezers to hold the flex cable so the connector aligns with its socket. Then, gently press down on the connector with the flat of your spudger until it clicks into place.
    • Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the other end of the antenna flex cable from its socket, next to the Lightning Port.

    • Reconnecting this cable can be tricky. Make it easier by using your tweezers to hold the flex cable so the connector aligns with its socket. Then, gently press down on the connector with the flat of your spudger until it clicks into place.

    I was unable to plug this back in when re-assembling. My home button doesn’t work anymore. The connector it was supposed to plug into seems to spin around.

    Dan Putnam - Ответить

    I had a similar experience during this repair. My problem was that the nib on the ribbon that actually connects in to the socket came off the ribbon cable when I initially detached the cable. I didn’t realize this until after the repair, but I also had to replace the Wifi Diversity cable entirely. A tell-tale sign is that you don’t receive good cell reception.

    Lucas -

    I did not notice until reassembly, but the antenna socket pulled off the board. I have no micro-soldering tools. The friction of the connector was greater than the solder holding it in place.

    David Hampson - Ответить

  35. Remove the Wi-Fi diversity antenna.
    • Remove the Wi-Fi diversity antenna.

    This had a little adhesive on the metal band. Couldn’t just pluck it out as shown. What I did worked but what I should’ve done is run my blue puck up and down the length.

    Mark Hintze - Ответить

    • Remove the three screws securing the Taptic Engine:

    • Two 1.5 mm Phillips screws

    • One 2.4 mm standoff screw

    • Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

  36. Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable. Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable.
    • Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable.

  37. Remove the Taptic Engine.
    • Remove the Taptic Engine.

  38. Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray. Press firmly to eject the tray. Press firmly to eject the tray.
    • Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

    • Press firmly to eject the tray.

  39. Remove the SIM card tray from the iPhone. The SIM card will fall out of the tray easily.
    • Remove the SIM card tray from the iPhone.

    • The SIM card will fall out of the tray easily.

    • When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

    • A thin rubber gasket around the SIM tray provides water and dust protection. If this gasket is damaged or missing, replace the gasket or the entire SIM tray to protect your iPhone's internal components.

  40. Use the point of a spudger to push the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board's way. Use the point of a spudger to push the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board's way. Use the point of a spudger to push the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board's way.
    • Use the point of a spudger to push the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board's way.

  41. Remove two Phillips screws securing the bracket over the upper cable connector:
    • Remove two Phillips screws securing the bracket over the upper cable connector:

    • One 3.1 mm screw

    • One 1.3 mm screw

    • Remember, the longer screw goes on the left.

    the right screw is 1,33mm, not 3,1mm.

    Boni Zei - Ответить

  42. Remove the upper cable connector bracket.
    • Remove the upper cable connector bracket.

  43. Remove the two 1.2 mm Phillips screws securing the grounding clip at the top left edge of the logic board. Remove the two 1.2 mm Phillips screws securing the grounding clip at the top left edge of the logic board.
    • Remove the two 1.2 mm Phillips screws securing the grounding clip at the top left edge of the logic board.

  44. Remove the grounding clip.
    • Remove the grounding clip.

  45. Remove the 1.2 mm Phillips screw securing the antenna flex cable to the top edge of the iPhone's rear case. Remove the 1.2 mm Phillips screw securing the antenna flex cable to the top edge of the iPhone's rear case.
    • Remove the 1.2 mm Phillips screw securing the antenna flex cable to the top edge of the iPhone's rear case.

  46. Use a fingernail or the sharp end of an iFixit opening tool to pry up and disconnect the antenna flex cable connector from the logic board. Use a fingernail or the sharp end of an iFixit opening tool to pry up and disconnect the antenna flex cable connector from the logic board.
    • Use a fingernail or the sharp end of an iFixit opening tool to pry up and disconnect the antenna flex cable connector from the logic board.

  47. Slide the flat edge of a spudger underneath the antenna flex cable to separate the adhesive holding it in place. Slide the flat edge of a spudger underneath the antenna flex cable to separate the adhesive holding it in place.
    • Slide the flat edge of a spudger underneath the antenna flex cable to separate the adhesive holding it in place.

  48. The screw boss at the top of the antenna flex cable is tucked into a small recess in the top edge of the iPhone. Tilt the antenna flex cable  up toward the top of the iPhone. Slide the screw boss down and out of its recess.
    • The screw boss at the top of the antenna flex cable is tucked into a small recess in the top edge of the iPhone.

    • Tilt the antenna flex cable up toward the top of the iPhone.

    • Slide the screw boss down and out of its recess.

    • Remove the antenna flex cable.

  49. Remove the three Phillips screws securing the lower speaker: Two 1.4 mm screws One 2.4 mm screw
    • Remove the three Phillips screws securing the lower speaker:

    • Two 1.4 mm screws

    • One 2.4 mm screw

    • During reassembly, press the speaker toward the bottom edge of the iPhone until the screw holes align, and hold it there while you install the screws.

  50. Remove the lower speaker.
    • Remove the lower speaker.

  51. Prying from the top edge, use your fingernail or a spudger to pry up and disconnect the upper cable connector. Prying from the top edge, use your fingernail or a spudger to pry up and disconnect the upper cable connector.
    • Prying from the top edge, use your fingernail or a spudger to pry up and disconnect the upper cable connector.

  52. Use the point of a spudger to carefully pry up and disconnect the wireless charging coil's flex cable. Use the point of a spudger to carefully pry up and disconnect the wireless charging coil's flex cable.
    • Use the point of a spudger to carefully pry up and disconnect the wireless charging coil's flex cable.

  53. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the Lightning connector assembly's flex cable from the logic board. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the Lightning connector assembly's flex cable from the logic board.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the Lightning connector assembly's flex cable from the logic board.

    I did this repair and I followed it too a T, but when I reassembled, the flex cable for the Lightning connector assembly keeps popping out. Ive replaced it twice and followed your guide exactly. No mistakes. But when I go to clip it back in, it always does that….

    12 oz Willie - Ответить

  54. Remove the five screws securing the logic board: Two 1.8 mm Phillips screws
    • Remove the five screws securing the logic board:

    • Two 1.8 mm Phillips screws

    • One 2.3 mm standoff screw

    • One 2.4 mm standoff screw

    • One 2.7 mm standoff screw

    • Standoff screws are best removed using an [связанный продукт отсутствует или отключен: IF145-343-1] and driver handle.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

    My repair kit from iFixit included a standoff screwdriver bit. I do not recommend trying this without one.

    jefflongcore - Ответить

  55. Lift the logic board from the bottom edges and slide it toward the bottom of the iPhone to remove it. Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables. During reassembly, note the position of the black grounding clip at the top right edge of the logic board, near the rear cameras. The logic board should slide underneath the clip.
    • Lift the logic board from the bottom edges and slide it toward the bottom of the iPhone to remove it.

    • Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables.

    • During reassembly, note the position of the black grounding clip at the top right edge of the logic board, near the rear cameras. The logic board should slide underneath the clip.

  56. Remove the two Phillips screws securing the barometric vent at the bottom left corner of the iPhone: One 3.2 mm screw
    • Remove the two Phillips screws securing the barometric vent at the bottom left corner of the iPhone:

    • One 3.2 mm screw

    • One 1.8 mm screw

  57. Gently push the barometric vent in the direction of the battery to separate the adhesive securing the vent to the bottom edge of the iPhone. Gently push the barometric vent in the direction of the battery to separate the adhesive securing the vent to the bottom edge of the iPhone.
    • Gently push the barometric vent in the direction of the battery to separate the adhesive securing the vent to the bottom edge of the iPhone.

  58. Remove the vent.
    • Remove the vent.

  59. Remove the five Phillips screws securing the Lightning connector assembly to the rear case:
    • Remove the five Phillips screws securing the Lightning connector assembly to the rear case:

    • Two 1.2 mm screws

    • Two 2.4 mm screws

    • One 2.5 mm screw

  60. Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the Lightning port to the bottom edge of the iPhone.
    • Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the Lightning port to the bottom edge of the iPhone.

  61. Use the sharp edge of an iFixit Opening Tool to pry the two microphones free from the adhesive securing them to the lower edge of the iPhone. Don't try to completely remove the microphones; just separate the adhesive as shown. Don't try to completely remove the microphones; just separate the adhesive as shown.
    • Use the sharp edge of an iFixit Opening Tool to pry the two microphones free from the adhesive securing them to the lower edge of the iPhone.

    • Don't try to completely remove the microphones; just separate the adhesive as shown.

  62. Apply an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case behind the Lightning connector flex cable. This will soften the adhesive securing the flex cable, making it easier to separate.
    • Apply an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case behind the Lightning connector flex cable. This will soften the adhesive securing the flex cable, making it easier to separate.

  63. Use the flat edge of a spudger to gently fold the battery flex cable connector away from the upper portion of the Lightning connector assembly.
    • Use the flat edge of a spudger to gently fold the battery flex cable connector away from the upper portion of the Lightning connector assembly.

    • In the following steps, as you separate the Lightning connector assembly, be careful not to accidentally damage the battery flex cable.

  64. Slide an opening pick or thin pry tool underneath the top portion of the Lightning connector assembly flex cable. Gently slide the pick toward the outside edge of the iPhone (away from the battery). Part of the wireless charging coil lies directly underneath this portion of the Lightning connector flex cable. Aggressive prying may damage the coil.
    • Slide an opening pick or thin pry tool underneath the top portion of the Lightning connector assembly flex cable.

    • Gently slide the pick toward the outside edge of the iPhone (away from the battery).

    • Part of the wireless charging coil lies directly underneath this portion of the Lightning connector flex cable. Aggressive prying may damage the coil.

    • If needed, use your hair dryer or iOpener repeatedly to re-heat the area behind the Lightning connector assembly flex cable in order to make it easier to separate.

  65. Continue separating the upper portion of the Lightning connector flex cable, being careful not to damage any other components along the way. Keep the battery connector gently folded to the side so as not to damage it. Be very careful not to damage the battery itself. A punctured battery can leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire.
    • Continue separating the upper portion of the Lightning connector flex cable, being careful not to damage any other components along the way.

    • Keep the battery connector gently folded to the side so as not to damage it.

    • Be very careful not to damage the battery itself. A punctured battery can leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire.

  66. Continue separating the Lightning connector assembly's flex cable until you pass the lower edge of the battery. Continue separating the Lightning connector assembly's flex cable until you pass the lower edge of the battery. Continue separating the Lightning connector assembly's flex cable until you pass the lower edge of the battery.
    • Continue separating the Lightning connector assembly's flex cable until you pass the lower edge of the battery.

  67. Carefully slide your pick from the corner of the battery to the corner of the iPhone to separate the  portion of the flex cable adhered to the outer frame. Carefully slide your pick from the corner of the battery to the corner of the iPhone to separate the  portion of the flex cable adhered to the outer frame.
    • Carefully slide your pick from the corner of the battery to the corner of the iPhone to separate the portion of the flex cable adhered to the outer frame.

  68. Slide your pick across the width of the iPhone to separate all the remaining areas of the Lightning connector assembly from the rear case. Slide your pick across the width of the iPhone to separate all the remaining areas of the Lightning connector assembly from the rear case. Slide your pick across the width of the iPhone to separate all the remaining areas of the Lightning connector assembly from the rear case.
    • Slide your pick across the width of the iPhone to separate all the remaining areas of the Lightning connector assembly from the rear case.

    What purpose do the ribboned screw brackets or bosses have

    Hunter Shaver - Ответить

  69. Remove the Lightning connector assembly. Before installing or replacing the Lightning connector assembly:
    • Remove the Lightning connector assembly.

    • Before installing or replacing the Lightning connector assembly:

    • Use a plastic tool to scour any bits of adhesive residue from the rear case.

    • Thoroughly clean any remaining residue from the surface with isopropyl alcohol (90% concentration or greater) and a lint-free cloth. Wipe in one direction only, not back and forth.

  70. A rubber gasket on the bottom of the Lightning connector protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. If you are installing a new Lightning connector assembly, you may need to carefully remove and transfer the gasket to the new part. The small adhesive patch on the bottom of each microphone also protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. For best results, replace the two adhesive patches before installing your Lightning connector assembly. Important: During installation, correctly position your new Lightning connector assembly so that the cutouts in the cable are exactly centered around the four screw bosses in the rear case. Otherwise, the flex cable will be misaligned and you won't be able to reconnect it to its socket on the logic board.
    • A rubber gasket on the bottom of the Lightning connector protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. If you are installing a new Lightning connector assembly, you may need to carefully remove and transfer the gasket to the new part.

    • The small adhesive patch on the bottom of each microphone also protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. For best results, replace the two adhesive patches before installing your Lightning connector assembly.

    • Important: During installation, correctly position your new Lightning connector assembly so that the cutouts in the cable are exactly centered around the four screw bosses in the rear case. Otherwise, the flex cable will be misaligned and you won't be able to reconnect it to its socket on the logic board.

    Dopo la sostituzione non funziona più il microfono, ma se non ho capito male i microfoni sono integrati nel gruppo connettore di ricarica giusto? Questo significa che è difettoso? Non mi pare sia possibile montarli male (dato che appunto in effetti non sono da montare). Potrebbe essere qualche impostazione nel sistema operativo per abilitare i nuovi microfoni?

    giulio carlini - Ответить

    Correctly positions the new Lightning connector assembly is very important! I found that event the slightest misalignment will prevent you from easily reconnecting the flex cable to the logic board. I had to remove the logic board and peel back some of the new adhesive on my replacement Lightning connector a few times in order to get the proper alignment. I found it useful to plug in the flex cable prior to mounting the logic board so that you have at some leeway when lining up the connectors.

    Lucas - Ответить

Заключение

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

57 участников успешно повторили данное руководство.

Jeff Suovanen

Участник с: 06.08.2013

355 154 Репутация

Автор 258 руководств

Команда

iFixit Участник iFixit

Community

138 членов

Автор 16 457 руководств

Комментариев: 13

40 minutes seems crazy fast for this repair. If anyone can do this entire repair from beginning to end utilizing these steps in 40 minutes… they should spend a day or two practicing the Rubik’s cube and go smash the world record.

The guide helped me accomplish the repair. So, for that, thank you very much.

andystills - Ответить

Very well done and easy to follow. Great piece of work and I appreciate the time spent putting it all together.

Have repaired 2 other iPhones, 6 and 6S, using the guides found here. When confronted with the iPhone 8 plus repair this is the site I came to.

Again, very well done indeed.

Kudos

Rick W - Ответить

Where dose one find a new gasket for the lighting cable?

Joshua spaulding - Ответить

You will not find a more comprehensive or thorough or accurate guide to dismantling and replacing the charging port on an iPhone 8 Plus than this. Awesome guide, thanks for your attention to detail and thoroughness! Bravo!

Will White - Ответить

Thank you very much for the very detailed repair instructions. My microphone wasn’t working properly and I was able to get it fixed for just $12! (got the replacement from eBay)

Vishvaka Ranasinghe - Ответить

Dopo la sostituzione non funziona più il microfono, ma se non ho capito male i microfoni sono integrati nel gruppo connettore di ricarica giusto? Questo significa che è difettoso? Non mi pare sia possibile montarli male (dato che appunto in effetti non sono da montare). Potrebbe essere qualche impostazione nel sistema operativo per abilitare i nuovi microfoni?

giulio carlini - Ответить

Mi correggo, ho problemi solo durante le chiamate, se uso l’app note vocali o whatsapp o faccio video con entrambe le fotocamere non ho problemi

giulio carlini -

Why is removing the camera and antenna necessary for replacing the lightning port?

nvrm i see why

Miles Henry - Ответить

Buon pomeriggio, devo fare i complimenti al sito per come e dettagliato ogni guida e riparazione. adesso ho finito di riparare un iphone 8 plus e va una bomba

Rocco Granato - Ответить

Wish I had been told I would need a standoff screwdriver before I was halfway into taking the thing apart…

Nathaniel Moliterno - Ответить

This was not a quick job. It took me far longer than expected because the sound did not work the first time that I re-assembled it. I took the phone back apart far enough to remove the speaker and clean the contacts. On re-assembly, it would not boot cleanly. It continuously rebooted until I had to restore to factory settings and reload from save.

Make sure you have a current save _before_ you do this repair.

jefflongcore - Ответить

I want to let everyone know that it is absolutely unnecessary to remove the entire logic board when doing this repair. You only need to remove the SIM holder and the the 2 (or 3 on XR) logic board screws (2 saddle screws and 1 Phillips on XR, 2 saddles on 7/8 series) that hold the logic board down. Once those are removed, you can gently lift the lower end of the logic board up enough to slide the portion of the dock flex that is under the logic board out from under the logic board. A few things to keep in mind when removing the existing port are that once all screws and brackets and such are taken off, you need to start the pulling up and removal of the old charging port flex starting from the very bottom first, I start with the with the 2 microphones and then the lightning port itself. As you free the existing port from the bottom upwards, when you peel up the flex where it is held down with adhesive nearing the logic board, it will then simply slide out from under the logic board.

Show less

Chad McCollister - Ответить

Ran out of characters!..When you go to install the new port, you must START the process by sliding the new flex cable back up underneath the logic board first (you may need to hold the battery flex cable out of the way a bit and pre bend the new ports flex cable at the connector so that it will slide up easily) and then attach the new flex cable to the connector on the logic board FIRST before you do any other screw or adhesive installations. This way you don't end up struggling to try to get the connector to re-connect to the logic board at the end. If you don't do it this way and you start re-installing the new port from the bottom without pre-connecting it to the logic board, any slight misalignment may cause the connector to not line up properly when you go to connect it to the logic board. I feel on any iPhone component removal/replacement, the less extra parts and connectors you have to touch, pry on, disconnect and/or remove and then reconnect, the better. Good luck all! - Chad from GURUmicro.

Show less

Chad McCollister -

Добавить комментарий

Просмотр статистики:

За последние 24часов: 46

За последние 7 дней: 344

За последние 30 дней: 1,728

За всё время: 59,069