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Введение

Cracked screen? Touch not working? Bad OLED display? Use this guide to restore your iPhone X to working order with a new OLED screen and digitizer. Trying a new screen may also help if your iPhone X seemingly won’t turn on.

Note: The combined earpiece speaker + sensor assembly affixed to the back of the display is paired to your individual iPhone from the factory, so you must transfer it from your old display to your new one as instructed below during any display replacement. It contains the flood illuminator, which is part of the biometric Face ID security feature. If it is damaged or replaced, Face ID will cease to function, so take extra care not to damage any of these components during this procedure. If damaged, only Apple can restore Face ID function.

Note: If your iPhone’s auto brightness feature does not work properly after your screen repair, make sure your iPhone is updated to iOS 12. True Tone functionality is disabled after a screen replacement, even when using an original Apple screen.

Video Overview

  1. Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 6.9 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • If the screws are stripped or damaged, replace the screws.

    • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

  2. If your iPhone has a cracked screen, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass. Lay overlapping strips of packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered. This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
    • If your iPhone has a cracked screen, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

    • If the broken glass makes it difficult to get a suction cup to stick in the next few steps, try folding a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lifting the display with that instead.

  3. Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    General tip regarding heating necessary to remove adhesive:

    consider using a heated tip of a small screwdriver or metal spudger (not the one made of plastic, provided in kit), rather than to heat the device itself.

    Uri - Ответить

    You then need to be careful about the temp of the tool which if hot enough can melt plastic components or harm them. Keeping the heat source (heat gun) far enough away from the object that you’ll eventually melt the glue but would be much harder to melt components. I try to keep 4” or 5” gap between the source & object

    Sandman619 -

  4. The next two steps demonstrate the iSclack, a handy tool that we recommend for anyone doing frequent repairs. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip down two steps for an alternate method. If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger phones like the iPhone X.
    • The next two steps demonstrate the iSclack, a handy tool that we recommend for anyone doing frequent repairs. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip down two steps for an alternate method.

    • If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger phones like the iPhone X.

    • Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.

    • Press both suction cups firmly into place.

    • If your display or back glass is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cups to adhere. The iSclack also includes two pieces of tape for this purpose.

  5. Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to slightly separate the screen from the rear case of the phone. Don't try to completely separate the screen; a small opening along the bottom edge is all you need. Insert an opening pick into the gap.
    • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to slightly separate the screen from the rear case of the phone.

    • Don't try to completely separate the screen; a small opening along the bottom edge is all you need.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • Skip the next two steps.

  6. If using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass. If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.
    • If using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.

    • If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

  7. Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case. Insert an opening pick into the gap. The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.
    • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

  8. Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place. Don't insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components. Don't insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components.
    • Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.

    • Don't insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components.

  9. Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive. Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel. Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.
    • Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.

    • Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

  10. The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips. Slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or wiggling the display down in the direction of the Lightning port. The clips will break if you use too much force. Work carefully and be patient.
    • The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips.

    • Slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or wiggling the display down in the direction of the Lightning port.

    • The clips will break if you use too much force. Work carefully and be patient.

    • Again, don't insert the pick more than a few millimeters—about the width of the display bezel—or you may damage the front panel sensor array.

    • Slide the pick to the opposite corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.

    These are the best instructions I’ve ever read for anything.! Thank you!

    Peter Andrew - Ответить

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  12. Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
    • Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

    • If you used an iSclack and it's still affixed to the iPhone, remove it now.

  13. Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book. Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board. Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    • Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn't click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren't bent.

    • Remove five Y000 screws securing the logic board connector bracket, of the following lengths:

    • Three 1.1 mm screws

    • One 3.1 mm screw

    • One 3.7 mm screw

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

  14. Remove the bracket.
    • Remove the bracket.

    • The bracket may be lightly adhered in place. Lift gently but firmly to separate it.

    • During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

  15. Use the point of a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board. Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.
    • Use the point of a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    • Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.

    • Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

  16. Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector. Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.
    • Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.

  17. Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the OLED panel cable connector. To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.
    • Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the OLED panel cable connector.

    • To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

  18. Use the point of a spudger to pry the digitizer cable connector up from its socket. This connector's recessed location makes it tricky to reconnect. Take your time and align it carefully, then gently press it into place with your fingertip—first one side, then the other. You should feel it click into place.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the digitizer cable connector up from its socket.

    • This connector's recessed location makes it tricky to reconnect. Take your time and align it carefully, then gently press it into place with your fingertip—first one side, then the other. You should feel it click into place.

    • If any part of your screen doesn't respond to touch after your repair, disconnect the battery and then re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there's no dust or other obstruction in the socket.

  19. The front panel sensor assembly flex cable is lightly adhered in place. Carefully lift the cable until the adhesive separates. Carefully lift the cable until the adhesive separates.
    • The front panel sensor assembly flex cable is lightly adhered in place.

    • Carefully lift the cable until the adhesive separates.

    Do this sensor affect face id?

    bonglkv - Ответить

    It is part of the face id part so yes. This is the ear piece too so if the ribbon tears there is a chance the ear piece will stop working as well.

    Stephen Patterson - Ответить

  20. Remove the display assembly.
  21. Remove the 1.2 mm Y000 screw on the back of the display assembly, near the infrared camera port.
    • Remove the 1.2 mm Y000 screw on the back of the display assembly, near the infrared camera port.

    Not sure as of what to do now, I have stripped this screw.

    Kelvin - Ответить

    It might be your driver tip that is no good. Try a new driver tip Y000

    carol - Ответить

  22. Beneath the screw you just removed lies a small metal grounding clip. If it didn't already come out along with the screw, remove it now. During reassembly, orient the clip as shown. Hold the clip in position while you install and tighten the screw. During reassembly, orient the clip as shown. Hold the clip in position while you install and tighten the screw.
    • Beneath the screw you just removed lies a small metal grounding clip. If it didn't already come out along with the screw, remove it now.

    • During reassembly, orient the clip as shown. Hold the clip in position while you install and tighten the screw.

    I previously had my screen replaced at a shop but when I replaced it that gold clip was not there. Will it affect the phone if it’s not there?

    jerrod boetto - Ответить

    Did you encounter any issues before you realized it was missing?

    curious one -

    what issues do you mean? As soon as I took apart everything and got to the screen I noticed the bracket and that the new one was missing it.

    0perationguttertech - Ответить

    sin ese clip la señal wifi se recibe a duras penas

    Harizola Taberna Margari - Ответить

  23. Remove two more Y000 screws securing the speaker/sensor assembly:
    • Remove two more Y000 screws securing the speaker/sensor assembly:

    • One 1.6 mm screw

    • One 1.3 mm screw

    What do you do if the 1.6mm tripoint screw won’t come out…? I think it may be stripped :(

    Salvatore Boenzi - Ответить

    You could try using an old screwdriver & carefully adding a dab of superglue to the screw to attach it to the screwdriver, Then the screw may come out, Superglue’s strength is holding 2 pieces together when the stress point is pulling the 2 pieces away from each other. Superglue becomes surprisingly easy to break when twisting the 2 pieces. So be careful since the rotation of the screw will put the stress point at the weakest of the glue’s strength.

    Sandman619 - Ответить

  24. The earpiece speaker is lightly adhered in place. Using a spudger, gently pry under the top edge of the speaker assembly, and flip it over—down and away from the top edge of the display.
    • The earpiece speaker is lightly adhered in place.

    • Using a spudger, gently pry under the top edge of the speaker assembly, and flip it over—down and away from the top edge of the display.

    • The speaker remains attached via a very thin flex cable. Be careful not to strain or damage the cable.

  25. Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the top front of the display for about a minute, in order to soften the adhesive securing the sensors.
    • Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the top front of the display for about a minute, in order to soften the adhesive securing the sensors.

  26. Carefully slide the flat edge of your spudger underneath the flex cable below the microphone. Twist gently to separate the microphone, while being careful not to strain or damage the flex cable. If needed, use the point of the spudger to finish separating the microphone from its notch in the front panel.
    • Carefully slide the flat edge of your spudger underneath the flex cable below the microphone.

    • Twist gently to separate the microphone, while being careful not to strain or damage the flex cable.

    • If needed, use the point of the spudger to finish separating the microphone from its notch in the front panel.

  27. Working left to right, slide an opening pick beneath the flex cable and underneath the proximity sensor + flood illuminator module. Gently wiggle and lift to separate the module from its notch in the front panel. It's helpful to lift and hold the speaker out of the way for access. Just be careful not to pull on the thin flex cable while you work.
    • Working left to right, slide an opening pick beneath the flex cable and underneath the proximity sensor + flood illuminator module.

    • Gently wiggle and lift to separate the module from its notch in the front panel.

    • It's helpful to lift and hold the speaker out of the way for access. Just be careful not to pull on the thin flex cable while you work.

  28. Use tweezers to wiggle the ambient light sensor and lift it from its notch in the display. The sensor remains attached to the rest of the sensor assembly via a very thin flex cable. Be careful not to strain or damage the cable.
    • Use tweezers to wiggle the ambient light sensor and lift it from its notch in the display.

    • The sensor remains attached to the rest of the sensor assembly via a very thin flex cable. Be careful not to strain or damage the cable.

  29. If you successfully removed the entire ambient light sensor, as shown in the first photo, continue to the next step below. If the white diffuser strip detached and remains embedded in the display, as shown in the second photo, you will need to carefully lever it out along the top edge using a thin blade or pry tool. Re-applying heat first may make this task a bit easier. During reassembly, install the diffuser into the display first, making sure it faces the right direction (the front-facing side is shown in the first image, and the rear-facing side is shown in the third).
    • If you successfully removed the entire ambient light sensor, as shown in the first photo, continue to the next step below.

    • If the white diffuser strip detached and remains embedded in the display, as shown in the second photo, you will need to carefully lever it out along the top edge using a thin blade or pry tool. Re-applying heat first may make this task a bit easier.

    • During reassembly, install the diffuser into the display first, making sure it faces the right direction (the front-facing side is shown in the first image, and the rear-facing side is shown in the third).

    • Then, set the ambient light sensor on top of the diffuser. You will need to hold the sensor in position while installing the screws securing the earpiece/sensor assembly. Once the screws are tightened, the sensor will stay in place and work normally.

    quá rõ ràng, cảm ơn ifixit

    Dang Tuan - Ответить

  30. Remove the earpiece speaker and front sensor assembly. During reassembly, check the position of the black plastic module containing these components: Proximity sensor
    • Remove the earpiece speaker and front sensor assembly.

    • During reassembly, check the position of the black plastic module containing these components:

    • Proximity sensor

    • Flood illuminator

    • The module must be positioned so that these components are not obstructed by any adhesive.

    there was no bracket on my new screen I purchased from here.. am I supposed to heat up and remove the old one, or was their supposed to be one on the new screen ??

    0perationguttertech - Ответить

    @br0k3nilluzion If your new display didn’t come with a front camera frame, you can (and should) remove the old one from your broken display and transfer it over. Use heat and careful wiggling/prying to remove it—and if it’s stubborn, add a few drops of isopropyl alcohol. Hope this helps!

    Jeff Suovanen - Ответить

    Does face-id stop working if the black plastic separates from the flex(The orange and red dot)?

    tharshan91 - Ответить

    If the black plastic piece with the flood illuminator and the proximity sensor is separated from the flex cable, then Face ID will definitely not work. Be very careful not to damage any of the parts in the front sensor assembly.

    Adam O'Camb -

    There is some sort of a tape in front of the flood illuminator which is not present on the replacement screen! Is that gonna cause a problem too?

    BTW, it’s so difficult to position the front camera frame without glue. I guess it takes a few attempts of trial and error!

    shoeib - Ответить

Заключение

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

253 участников успешно повторили данное руководство.

Jeff Suovanen

Участник с: 06.08.2013

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Комментариев: 41

Great Guide, professional and honest to proper procedures, good work Jeff Suovanen.

Alec - Ответить

does a new display not come with faceid sensor? so you have to remove this and instal it again with the new glass?

Scott Miller - Ответить

yeah, also face id will not work if you don’t replace the flex. Just be careful

jump1n -

FaceID is diabled if the hardware detects a new FaceID module. Using the original parts avoids this issue so that the FaceID feature is’t disabled. This could prevent a FaceID module from being replaced with a doctored or unlicensed part which may fail to provide the same level of security than the Apple supplied part.

Sandman619 -

I have a jailbroken iPhone x and i have to replace my screen in an authorized apple service.

Is necessary after replacement to restore? Or i can stay in 11.3.1 ios which i need to be so i can jailbrake?

jdais2003 - Ответить

Hey guys,

I have just completed my third iPhone X screen replacement, but now the taptic engine no longer functions and the phone no longer detects wifi ssid’s.

Does anyone have any advice?

Alex Stewart - Ответить

Akex even though you were not working in the area of the Taptic Engine, it sounds like something has happened down there because the wifi long antenna flex cable is attached to the frame at the bottom of the phone that is secured with seven screws. That frame and wifi aerial cable glued to the underside runs right next to the Taptic Engine . The frame also carries three EMC Grounding Pads. Its shown in Step 23 of the iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement Guide but they dont mentions what the cable is. iFixit dont carry it as a spare part either.

Sean Wren - Ответить

So is the iPhone XS’s cracked screen replacement different from the iPhone X’s?

lucas mariani - Ответить

@lucasmar The procedure for the XS screen replacement is very nearly identical—you can find the guide for it right here.

Jeff Suovanen -

Does anyone of you know that when you replace iphone x display, you need to transfer codes from the old cracked display to work fine?

amar762 - Ответить

Yes, it is needed for TrueTone to work perfect. I guess Apple fixed it on newer updates, but i’m pretty sure there’s a tool to trasnfer the “serial number” of the old screen into your old one. I may get one for the shop soon!

Rafael B -

The codes are not transferred. Certain components are have an ID number similar to a MAC address. The components have unique IDs & are registered with the hardware at time of manufacture, When replacing some components, like an LCD display, the unique ID components are transferred from the old part, the LCD display, to the new part, This maintains the functionality of those components, Replacement components need software only available to authorized Apple repair centers to add the new component IDs to the unit. In features like FaceID, this increases the security of iPhones by making it much more difficult to exchange components used by FaceID with components which have been hacked to make it easier to corrupt the iPhone security or for less reputable sources to sell cheaper fake components,

Sandman619 -

Is it possible to separate the digitizer and OLED flex cables from the screen and just replace them?

A_Bortz - Ответить

Possible, sure. Practical, no. You’d need an expensive microsoldering rig and a fair bit of practice to pull it off, plus a donor screen to get the cables from. From a DIY perspective, it’s far faster and cheaper to simply replace the entire display.

Jeff Suovanen -

if you are replacing the iphone x screen with a screen from a different iphone X is everything the same

Luke Squire - Ответить

No, you need to transfer the earpiece speaker/ sensor flex cable in order for Face ID to work. If you break/ rip or forget to transfer it the display should still work fine… BUT…. no Face ID :(

Rafael B -

After replacing the display correctly, will the face id work?

Gavino Peluso - Ответить

Absolutely. If you did everything without mistakes you’re expecting the screen and all other functions to keep working.

Don’t forget to transfer the old earpiece speaker/ sensor flex cable from your broken screen so you can still use Face ID. That cable is paired by Apple to the logic board.

Rafael B -

Great work on the instructions on removing the lcd from my Iphone X. I ended up dropping it from my lap when I got out of the car and place a hairline crack but the screen still completely worked. I ended up purchasing a replacement oled and a glass to replace the cracked screen on a later time. All the info provided here is always right on point. I just want to let you know us techs appreciate a solid source of reliable detailed information with pictures as well. Thanks again and keep up the great work

john bell - Ответить

I just finished this repair.

My new screen is showing incorrect battery information.

1. Not showing charging when plugged in.

2. Showing 1% charge. Charge was 30% when I started.

Any help would be fantastic. Thank you.

David

David Ewen - Ответить

Battery needs to be recalibrated once the replacement is done, the wrong battery percentage is normal, but if is not charging should be also something else, have you disconnected the battery connector before any other operation?

Gabriel Vendrame -

i dont know what happened but im not getting poor WiFi and Bluetooth and cellular reception is there any thing wrong with the fame that comes with the new display replacement?

Mani Reddy - Ответить

Exceptionally detailed and clear guide.

I tried to clean off display adhesive right away upon opening. Found it’s much easier once the 4 connectors are detached and the display screen separated from the rest of the phone. As for the battery, OLED and digitizer cable connectors, a fingernail works best for me to catch the edges without harming the black silicone seal around each of the connectors. The spudger is a bit less precise and without the same tactile finesse.

Thanks, Jeff Suovanen.

Daryl Grove - Ответить

Pregunta: si reemplazo este repuesto por uno nuevo, sigue funcionando el Face ID? O deja de funcionar? Saludos

k-amilo - Ответить

You must transfer the original sensor onto the new screen.

Debe transferir el sensor original a la nueva pantalla.

Arthur Shi -

have they come out with a true tone fix for the IPhone X with a replacement screen yet? Have one with a cracked screen and was wanting to replace it, but not loose truetone feature. Thanks

Robert Briggs - Ответить

True Tone can be restored with a screen programmer, although the programmer itself costs ~$50 or more—so it’s more economical if you’re doing more than one screen repair. We’ll have a guide with instructions for using the programmer sometime in the next month or so. If that’s something you’re interested in, keep your old screen—you’ll need to use the programmer to clone some data from the old screen to the new one.

Jeff Suovanen -

Hi Everyone

Where can I get the apple genuine iPhone X screen replacement please advise thank you?

Remy - Ответить

Used this guide and perfectly replaced my first screen.. Thank a million

Louis - Ответить

Hi Jeff Suovanen,

Is there already a guide or a release date for the programmer you mentioned on previous comments? I would love to recover True Tone on my iPhone X :(

“True Tone can be restored with a screen programmer, although the programmer itself costs ~$50 or more—so it’s more economical if you’re doing more than one screen repair. We’ll have a guide with instructions for using the programmer sometime in the next month or so. If that’s something you’re interested in, keep your old screen—you’ll need to use the programmer to clone some data from the old screen to the new one.”

Thanks!

Hugo Verastegui - Ответить

Guten Tag, habe den goldenen Endungskontakt verloren. Nach dem Umbau, funktioniert mein Face ID nicht mehr. Gibt es Möglichkeiten den Endungskontakt zu kaufen. Habe im Internet nichts gefunden.

k.karaguelle - Ответить

salve, una domanda

perché dopo smontaggio e sostituzione dello schermo il riconoscimento facciale non funziona più?

Riccardo Mazzoni - Ответить

Perché il face id come il touch id è associato alla scheda madre, ora se ha portato tutte le componenti dallo schermo rotto a quello nuovo dovrebbe funzionare mentre se ha acquistato uno schermo pre assemblato chiaramente non funzionerà mai.

Se invece rientra nel primo caso e ancora non funziona i connettori potrebbero non essere connessi correttamente o uno dei componenti del face id danneggiati (la cosa più probabile sono i flex cable che si rompono con niente durante la sostituzione)

Gabriel Vendrame -

A certificated Shop told me that the displays have to be coded that the True Tone works, I see they use a special software, and then the True Tone works. Have someone Informationen about the software they used to code the display. The touch reaction after the coding work also exactly like the original. I need to know more about their calibration software.

Saman Razavi - Ответить

Fantastic! My battery swelled up and ruined my screen. Purchased a screen kit and battery and the repair went perfect. I originally was going to buy a screen and battery from amazon, but this kit was first class. The tools are very nice too. So in the end I’m glad I spent an extra $80 and got quality parts, great instruction, and nice tools. Best part is of course is my phone is aces again!

Ryan Roraback - Ответить

Does the replacement screen come with a new display module or is that a separate part??

Erik kurka - Ответить

As 1 part, no worries

Uri -

Beautiful. Amazed at myself and proud. I was also referring to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22_bONU0... and did it in 3 and a half hours today. Thank you!

Uri - Ответить

Does this repair make any conflict with True Tone setting? I’ve heard that if I don’t connect the replacement screen to certain apple machine the True Tone setting disappears or is no longer adjustable.

Joon Han - Ответить

That is correct. True Tone functionality is disabled after a screen replacement, even when using an original Apple screen.

Arthur Shi -

Does anyone know if after replacement the iPhone stays waterproof?

mitrofanid4 - Ответить

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