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Введение
The iPhone XS uses both the primary loudspeaker and the earpiece speaker together to produce stereo sound. Use this guide to replace the primary loudspeaker at the bottom of the phone only. Replacing this speaker can help resolve issues such as loss of sound, poor sound quality, and distorted sound.
Выберете то, что вам нужно
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Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
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Remove the two 6.9 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.
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If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.
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Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
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Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
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Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.
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Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
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Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
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Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
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Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
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Heat an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.
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Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
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Skip the next three steps.
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Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.
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If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.
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Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
It seems like I need a third hand to do this. To hold the phone; hold the suction cup; and push the pick in the space.
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Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.
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Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.
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Slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or wiggling the display down in the direction of the Lightning port.
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Slide the pick to the opposite corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.
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Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
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Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
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Remove five screws securing the logic board connector bracket, of the following lengths:
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Three 1.0 mm Y000 screws
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One 1.3 mm Y000 screw
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One 3.7 mm Phillips screw
FYI: I used a tiny piece of scotch tape to hold those 1mm screws in place while aligning the magnetic screwdriver. Otherwise they are so tiny the magnetic bit pulls them right out the hole.
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Remove the bracket.
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Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
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Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.
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Use a spudger or a fingernail to pry up and disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.
In my phone the connector made poor contact with the socket resulting in no sound audible through the phone receiver/headset. There was an overhang of insulation close to the socket which I believe may have prevented a good connection. So if you have these kinds of audio problems you might see if this is the problem.
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Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the OLED panel cable connector.
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Use a spudger or fingernail to pry the digitizer cable connector up from its socket.
Reassembly: reconnecting the press connectors upon reassembly was so hard, even for the ones not seated in a recessed location !! It took me two days to get them reconnected. What helped me was to shine bright lights on all sides of the iPhone and then hold the iPhone vertically like a book and press it in that way. They are now all in, but the touchscreen functionality has disappeared :( so I will need to reconnect that one.
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Carefully lift the cable until the adhesive separates.
Will replacing camera and sensors fix damaged face I'd
No, FaceID will be disabled because the original sensors are paired with the logic board.
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Remove the display assembly.
Geez, I blazed right past that small line to replace the waterproof seal. Needs to be called out much larger.
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Remove the five screws securing the two brackets below the Taptic Engine and main speaker:
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One 1.0 mm tri-point Y000 screw
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Two 1.3 mm Phillips screws
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One 1.7 mm Phillips screw
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One 1.8 mm Phillips screw
Bonjour,
Plus pratique avec une Y000. Dans mon cas c’était impossible en Y00.
Bonne journée. :)
got stuck on the 1.8 mm screw and had to abort. The Phillips head provided “PH000” didn’t quite fit and stripped the screw.
I ended up skipping this step through 32. It’s not necessary to take the speaker and taptic thing off. I just used the thin black spudger flat edge and pried under the battery on the L-shaped edge and dislodged the adhesive and then did the same on the top edge. You will end up bending the old battery but that’s ok—just don’t poke it. keep poking the flat edge of the spudger in there kind of like a knife to break the adhesive. once you get at least two spots of the adhesive pulled, the rest comes up quite easily when you lift the whole battery.
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Gently lift to unstick and remove each bracket, being careful not to bend it.
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If necessary, apply a little heat with a hair dryer or heat gun to soften the adhesive. (Putting an iOpener on the brackets is not recommended, as this may bend the spring contacts along the top.)
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Remove the 1.9 mm Phillips screw securing the speaker connector cover.
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Insert a spudger under the top edge of the speaker, near the edge of the iPhone's case.
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Gently pry up and lift the top edge of the speaker slightly.
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While prying up the speaker, use tweezers to peel away the plastic bumper strip from the top edge of the speaker.
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Hold the speaker by its side edges and rock it side-to-side, separating the adhesive securing it to the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Pull the speaker away from the bottom edge of the iPhone until the adhesive gasket separates.
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Remove the speaker.
I thought my speaker gasket was also missing, however looking back into the part box I found it tucked under the flap at the other (unopened) side of the box. Glad I took a second (and closer) look. IFIXIT needs to do a better job securing very small parts as it is very easy for these types of parts to get jostled during shipping and then could fall out or stuck in the box unnoticed. I've purchased iFixit products for more than 10 years and am super satisfied their quality in parts and provided instructions. Hopefully they'll make some adjustments to their shipping containers as I'd love to continue using them.
My speaker gasket was stuck to the inside of the box also. Unfortunately it has the back peal removed and has stuck itself to the cardboard box. I tried to remove it but it was firmly attached. Bummer. This is my first iFixIt. Please package it more carefully as the other person said.
I can't find mine in the part box. Is it possible it was excluded?
It might have fallen out. Search in the crevasses of the box. If you still cannot find it contact iFixit.
Update to last comment, I looked again at the listing for the battery with and without the "fix it kit". I ordered without, and apparently, the speaker gasket is part of the kit. Will need to order separately and take the phone apart again and replace the seal and battery adhesive again to install the gasket.
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Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.
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2 Комментариев
hi there need a little help need the bracket part where the five screws go one of the tabs brock on the one i have
Had the same problem. One of the little tab / springs was damaged on the bracket below the main speaker. Didn't think it would be that much of an issue until I started using phone. On occasion, pressure on the lower part of screen creates crazy phantom touchscreen activity. Cannot locate a replacement anywhere on the site.
ELLO WEE -
Der Original Akku ist codiert. Egal, ob man einen zweiten Apple Original Akku oder einen neuen Fremdakku einbaut erscheint bereits in den Einstellungen eine "Wichtige Batterienachricht" mit einem roten Punkt. "Unbekanntes Bauteil" und die "Informationen zum Batteriezustand" sind nicht verfügbar. Diese Nachricht verbleibt immer und nervt auf Dauer immens.
Der Akku muss angelernt werden und dieses können von jetzt an nur authorisierte Apple Servicebetriebe und diesen ist es durch Apple verboten die notwendige Info weiterzugeben.
Dies ist nicht zu verwechseln mit der bereits bekannten Rekalibrierung seit iOS 14.5.
Seit dieser neuen Codierung kostet der Akkutausch bei Apple auch nicht mehr 75 € sondern aktuell 99 € (Stand Novmber 2023 in Deutschland).
Damit sind künftig alle nicht authorisierten Servicebetriebe raus - denn wer will schon dauernd diese Mitteilung auf dem Bildschirm haben?
Überlegt vorher, ob unter diesen Bedingungen ein eigener Akkutausch noch sinnvoll ist .....
Manfred Wachtel - Ответить
Lieben Dank @manfredwachtel ! Mehr Infos dazu haben wir auch in unserem Blog zusammengefasst: https://de.ifixit.com/News/78890/teileko...
Sandra Hiller -