Введение
Replacing the battery requires a fine tip soldering iron and is a difficult job that only experienced solderers should attempt.
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Insert the edge of an iPod opening tool into the gap between the outer case and the top bezel.
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Pry the top bezel off the adhesive securing it to the display retainer.
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Remove the two angled Phillips screws from the two corners of the display retainer.
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Insert an iPod opening tool between the outer case and the display retainer.
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Use the tool to slide the display assembly out of the case slightly.
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Slide the display out of the Nano. It will move about .5" until the display data cable limits its travel.
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With the display pulled out of the case as much as possible, gently press on the lower edge of the glass panel until it pops in slightly (~1 mm).
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Use your thumbs on the lower edge of the glass panel to slide the glass down and into the case until the top edge pops up out of the case.
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Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to separate the hold switch from the adhesive securing it to the top edge of the display.
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While holding the light colored socket down with one finger, use the tip of a spudger to flip the ZIF cable lock up toward the bottom of the Nano.
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Use an iPod opening tool to peel the display data cable off the thin metal plate attached to the display.
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Pull the display out of the Nano, minding the hold switch cable that may get caught.
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Insert an iPod opening tool between the bottom bezel and the dock connector.
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Separate the bottom bezel from the adhesive securing it to the Nano and set it aside.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to separate the battery from the adhesive securing it to the outer case.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to push the logic board assembly and battery slightly out of the bottom of the Nano. Stop once it pops out a little bit.
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Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to peel the click wheel ribbon cable and its ZIF socket off the dock connector.
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Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to flip the ZIF cable lock up toward the headphone jack.
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Use a pair of tweezers to slide the click wheel ribbon cable out of its socket.
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Peel back the cable on both ends!
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Pull the logic board assembly out of the outer case, minding the hold switch and click wheel cables that may get caught.
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Peel the hold switch cable from along the edge of the battery and lay it aside. The hold switch cable is not attached to the battery.
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Pry the battery off the adhesive securing it to the metal tray on the logic board.
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Start working from one side of the battery ribbon cable. In our case, we started on the left. Heat the leftmost solder pad while gently prying up from under the ribbon cable to free it from the board.
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Repeat the previous step for each of the two remaining pads, working either right to left or left to right.
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Lift the old battery out of the nano and set it aside.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order, while being careful not to damage the iPod.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order, while being careful not to damage the iPod.
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161 участников успешно повторили данное руководство.
34 Комментариев
There is one small point which is worth a mention here.After disconnnecting the screen by flicking up a little black bit on the ZIF Connector, I went on to open the next ZiF (The Click Switch)
Yes- bits of ZIF connector everywhere.I actually had to examine a new Click Switch circuit carefully to find that this one is different.
Yes - you flick the White bit. Do apple do this just to keep us on our toes?
I tried what Bradley suggested because it really seems easier than to solder the new battery to the iPod circuit board, which is really tiny. Still I couldn't do it. The battery pads are very fragile and I had an hard time folding the leads and the battery circuit board so that it looked the way it originally was. This was the part where I failed because afterwards I wasn't able to insert the battery plus the iPod circuit board inside its case again and ended it breaking it.
When I soldered my battery in I first touched the top and bottom of the pads on the new battery with flux and then added a little solder to the top and bottom of the pads. When I put the pads in place I only had to apply a quick touch and it soldered on perfectly.
Overall it was a real pain! :)
After 3 hours of hard work I did it !
It's the first time I try such a job, and I found it "quite easy" to change the battery with the guide. Just follow the pictures and you'll be done.
The hard work for me was the solder part - and a friend of mine gave me a hand as he was more used to do this.
You can do it, it worth a try :)
