Введение
Replacing the logic board assembly gives you new flash memory as well as a new battery.
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Insert the edge of an iPod opening tool into the gap between the outer case and the top bezel.
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Pry the top bezel off the adhesive securing it to the display retainer.
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Remove the two angled Phillips screws from the two corners of the display retainer.
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Insert an iPod opening tool between the outer case and the display retainer.
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Use the tool to slide the display assembly out of the case slightly.
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Slide the display out of the Nano. It will move about .5" until the display data cable limits its travel.
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With the display pulled out of the case as much as possible, gently press on the lower edge of the glass panel until it pops in slightly (~1 mm).
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Use your thumbs on the lower edge of the glass panel to slide the glass down and into the case until the top edge pops up out of the case.
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Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to separate the hold switch from the adhesive securing it to the top edge of the display.
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While holding the light colored socket down with one finger, use the tip of a spudger to flip the ZIF cable lock up toward the bottom of the Nano.
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Use an iPod opening tool to peel the display data cable off the thin metal plate attached to the display.
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Pull the display out of the Nano, minding the hold switch cable that may get caught.
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Insert an iPod opening tool between the bottom bezel and the dock connector.
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Separate the bottom bezel from the adhesive securing it to the Nano and set it aside.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to separate the battery from the adhesive securing it to the outer case.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to push the logic board assembly and battery slightly out of the bottom of the Nano. Stop once it pops out a little bit.
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Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to peel the click wheel ribbon cable and its ZIF socket off the dock connector.
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Use the edge of an iPod opening tool to flip the ZIF cable lock up toward the headphone jack.
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Use a pair of tweezers to slide the click wheel ribbon cable out of its socket.
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Peel back the cable on both ends!
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Pull the logic board assembly out of the outer case, minding the hold switch and click wheel cables that may get caught.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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6 Комментариев
Wouldn't it be easier to open the ZIF socket whilst it is still stuck down?
On step 11 I found that the cable was still stuck down by the bit under the metal case. The opening tool failed to get at this.
I cut the live head off a match and trimmed it to a long chisel edge.
Pine is soft,strong and non conductive.I was able to poke under the metal body and release the remaining adhesive seal.
Failure. Another broken iPod due to the incompleteness of step 20. I will add a step 21 with description but I will need some nice looking pictures.
TOOLS: I don't see any offset legs in the screws themselves, however either my 00 phillips is bigger than yours, or these screws are actually 000 phillips. In either case, I found that the heads were full of adhesive, and using a tiny flathead driver and a sharp knife I was able to clear it out just enough to get the screws out.
Your instructions are excellent up to steps 17-19. Up to that point they are better than any other instructions I found on the internet, but sadly they are spoiled because you are missing a photo in steps 17-19 to show that the cable coming from the click wheel has to be disconnected and freed. Following a lot of user comments on step 19 you have added text and red warnings to warn the user to disconnect the click wheel cable, but your photos show the wrong cable coming from the logic board as being freed. You talk about freeing both ends of the cable, but there are TWO cables, one coming from the logic board (which is not important) and one coming from the click wheel (which has to be freed. A shame on an otherwise excellent set of instructions.