Chris Leeds

I would like to upgrade the iOS on my iPhone X from 11 to 12, but it will not let me because it says it has not finished...

Look closely at the trackpad connector on the board. I only say this because upon close inspection of the board in my 2015...

I have a 2016 MacBook that I repaired after a customer stepped on it. The Mac was running fine, and the only damage was a...

Where is the location of the backlight fuse? On the MacBook Pro 15 inch unibody mid 2012 model, where is the backlight...

I have attempted to repair two 12-inch MacBooks, one 2015 and one 2016. Most recently a standard display assembly...

There is power flowing through the USB Ports. I tested that with a USB tester and am getting the standard 5v of power....

SITUATION I have a MacBook air 2013 13-inch i5 with slight liquid damage. Any residue and liquid has been removed as I...

I'm trying to determine cost if the backlight is out. Thanks, Chris

Try swapping out the ribbon cable that runs between the hard drive and the logic board. You can buy them here at ifixit, Powerbookmedic or Beetstech (if either of the latter two, tell 'em Chris sent you). A few of the MBP models around that era have notorious issues with that cable, which will run you around $20 delivered. One client has been back several times to have the same cable replaced, I'm guessing because he keeps crushing the notebook in his backpack. The fastest way to determine if it's the drive or the cable, is to begin by removing the bottom panel, unplugging the battery from the board and unscrewing the drive bracket. Remove the bracket and the drive, carefully disconnecting the sata ribbon cable from the drive. Using a $10 sata to usb adapter from your local computer parts store (I'm not pro-Amazon), connect the drive and lay it down circuit-side up. Plug in the battery. Carefully align the bottom panel with the case so as not to touch any metal on the board. Replace the screws after this...

Mr. Jessup, Hold down the shift key when you hit return to achieve a break between paragraphs. Chris L.

Swapped out the io board with a new, known working one. Still no light or occasionally a VERY dim green. I tested it before I put it in the MacBook Air. Shouldn't I get some kind of response on the magsafe tip that lights up (on the end of the actual cord)? I'm starting to think that it's the power key and keyboard. Help? Thanks.

Sounds like the airport antenna (wires that run the bottom and side perimeters of the lcd) may have been left disconnected or been cut. My only thoughts are to remove the keyboard (following proper procedure) and confirm that your airport card has its cables connected - usually a white and black clipon pair of wires that lead up to the display. Also there's a possibility that these wires got pinched or severed when replacing the white hinge clutch cover.

Thanks for the swift reply. VERY reassuring that folks actually read these forums. Glad to know about the possibility of separate purchases. Anyway, I have not narrowed the problem down to the backlight or lcd. I simply replaced the entire screen - lcd with its original backlight intact. I need to break down the costs involved for this repair, so I can properly bill the client. The way it sounds, the labor involved for backlight replacement may outweigh the price for replacing the lcd, backlight and all. Chris Leeds, ACHDS Well Connected Life

Nicholas, any luck with fixing your display? Same problem here. Replaced the all-in-one cable without incident. Reassembled, and now it won’t power on using different:

• macs

• plugged and unplugged

• from on already and starting up

• outlets

• power cords

Help.

About to start the process over, suspecting to find a disconnected cable.

Good luck, and thanks for any input.

 Chris Leeds

Independent Apple Specialist

Well Connected Life

Thanks for the general repair guide. The last paragraph states that there are many resources for self-repair of liquid damaged MacBooks. However, none are presented.

Does any one have suggestions for repair guides, books or diagrams targeted for the more advanced independent Mac technician? Titles please?

Thank you.

Chris Leeds,

Well Connect Life

Independent Apple Specialist / owner

From my experience it’s important to carefully press and hold the small button above left of the Battery Discharge label. Use a plastic spudger or finger tip. The illuminated yellow LED to the right will go off. I believe this discharges remaining electricity from logic board protecting it during repair.

* I cannot find any documentation to support this, but I have damaged boards by not including this step.

IMPORTANT. You’re not removing the bottom, yet. This step is solely to separate the panel from its clips, permitting inside access.

Puncturing the battery’s protective covering can lead to release of caustic fumes or fire.

IMPORTANT: If you don’t press the yellow button before removing the trackpad cable on new models, it will KILL your Mac. This I’m reading from fellow contributors. Please tell me, I have not destroyed two MacBooks this way.