Chris Leeds

Alright gang. I have a 2019 MacBook Pro that has one of the connectors burned. Please see photos. Disregard “battery...

I would like to upgrade the iOS on my iPhone X from 11 to 12, but it will not let me because it says it has not finished...

Look closely at the trackpad connector on the board. I only say this because upon close inspection of the board in my 2015...

I have a 2016 MacBook that I repaired after a customer stepped on it. The Mac was running fine, and the only damage was a...

Where is the location of the backlight fuse? On the MacBook Pro 15 inch unibody mid 2012 model, where is the backlight...

I have attempted to repair two 12-inch MacBooks, one 2015 and one 2016. Most recently a standard display assembly...

There is power flowing through the USB Ports. I tested that with a USB tester and am getting the standard 5v of power....

SITUATION I have a MacBook air 2013 13-inch i5 with slight liquid damage. Any residue and liquid has been removed as I...

I'm trying to determine cost if the backlight is out. Thanks, Chris

No new thoughts on this?

Same computer. Same problem. Brand new Trackpad cable. Made sure it was seated properly. However, when I returned the bottom panel, it pressed on the excess trackpad cable. The pressure was enough for it to kink near the connection to the board and sever the connection. Make sure to put the metal plate on top of the trackpad cable where it connects to the Logicboard. You’ll also want to use the adhesive on the bottom of the trackpad cable to adhere it to the battery preventing it from lifting and getting pushed by the bottom panel when reattached. I hope that helps. Chris Leeds Independent Apple Specialist http://www.wellconnectedlife.com

Cheryl, Thank you for your information. Presently, the best answer here as voted by others here is “micro soldering.” Based on my personal first-hand experience I must disagree. I took my client’s Mac Mini with its broken-off fan connector back to Apple. I explainED the situation that the customer had tried to upgrade the RAM and left it at that. Seeing as it was a pretty new purchase, Apple agreed to send it to Depot for repair. It came back fixed with its original warranty, completely free of charge. How’s that for an answer? Thank you. Chris Leeds Independent Apple Specialist Well Connected Life

I believe I had this problem based on the fact that I was getting a 4HDD/11/4000000 error message when running the Apple Diagnostic (hold D upon startup). This worked perfectly for my issue, and problem is resolved. NOTE: This should not delete your personal files, BUT make some kind of BACKUP UP (directions below). For the amount time you may be able to save, consider trying what I did. You’ll need an adapter or an enclosure that goes from Apple’s mSATA interface with a proprietary 7+17 pin Apple connector. I have included a photo to show the (likely PC only) associate at your nearest big box electronics store. Point out that it is Apple and won’t work with the PC adapter they hand you. Once you get the adapter or enclosure try this: (1) unplug the power, power off and remove back from the Mac (2) disconnect the battery (3) pull the hard drive carefully (4) insert or attach it to the enclosure or adapter (5) hold down command - option and R as you power on the mac. continue holding until the globe appears...

And if the boot disk menu does not appear when holding down the option key upon start up, what is the problem? When I hold down the option key upon start up, I get the Internet Recovery, and I am prompted to choose a network.

And the take away is? Thank you.

I wouldn’t believe it if I hadn’t done it myself. When I replaced the hard drive with an Apple hard drive, not one from a third-party, the machine boots. Beforehand I could press the power button and would get fans, but no image on screen and no chime. Sometimes with the third-party hard drive in the computer I could press the F1 or F2 button repeatedly upon start up and I could get an image—if I had the HDMI cord plugged in. I’m not sure the logic behind it, but I suspect it had to do with it trying to throw the image to the external monitor. I never did get an image to the external monitor, but having the HDMI cord plugged in in combination with the repeated pressing of F1 or F2 would make the image come up on the Mac’s display. Once I put the original hard drive back in or put in a Apple hard drive, everything worked fine. Good luck, and I hope this works for y’all. Chris Leeds Certified Independent Apple Specialist Well Connected Life Dallas, Texas

I have two 15-inch MacBook Pros 2013 experiencing similar problems. One will start up with chime and fans with a completely black display no back light comes on. The other will turn on with a back light on without an image no chime and fans going full speed. all the usuals tried it with and without the charger, reset SMC, reset NVRAM. Still One with backlight and no image the other with no backlight or image. In determining if it’s the display or graphics card I plugged into the thunderbolt port nearest the Magsafe power port a Display port to HDMI adapter with an HDMI cable running to a TV. Recalling the F1 key was once used to throw a signal to an external monitor, I began tapping back to you as I turned on the Mac. Just the power cord and that mini display to HDMI adapter. In both cases the Macs turned on normally. I don’t recall seeing the image on the external monitor, but I was pleased with the fact that I finally had an image on each computer. Now on to troubleshooting the cause. At least I know how...

Try swapping out the ribbon cable that runs between the hard drive and the logic board. You can buy them here at ifixit, Powerbookmedic or Beetstech (if either of the latter two, tell 'em Chris sent you). A few of the MBP models around that era have notorious issues with that cable, which will run you around $20 delivered. One client has been back several times to have the same cable replaced, I'm guessing because he keeps crushing the notebook in his backpack. The fastest way to determine if it's the drive or the cable, is to begin by removing the bottom panel, unplugging the battery from the board and unscrewing the drive bracket. Remove the bracket and the drive, carefully disconnecting the sata ribbon cable from the drive. Using a $10 sata to usb adapter from your local computer parts store (I'm not pro-Amazon), connect the drive and lay it down circuit-side up. Plug in the battery. Carefully align the bottom panel with the case so as not to touch any metal on the board. Replace the screws after this...

Mr. Jessup, Hold down the shift key when you hit return to achieve a break between paragraphs. Chris L.

Yes, watch out for those little spacers. They are silver and blend right in with the bottom of the trackpad until you turn it upside down.

Tip: keep the six big lid anchor screws in place until after you remove the antenna bar. You may have to use your plastics spudger to wedge underneath the vents and get leverage off the underside of the lid along the hinge area. I also had to remove the Logicboard so I could get the plastic spudger underneath the antenna bar and lift it up. It felt like it was going to break. Did not want to have to remove the logic board, but seemed that was the only way I could get underneath and pry the antenna out.

Same problem. All but the very last one. Which now makes me think I should’ve left a few of the other ones in and taking it out first. Maybe it’s causing too much torque on that last screw. ?

Nicholas, any luck with fixing your display? Same problem here. Replaced the all-in-one cable without incident. Reassembled, and now it won’t power on using different:

• macs

• plugged and unplugged

• from on already and starting up

• outlets

• power cords

Help.

About to start the process over, suspecting to find a disconnected cable.

Good luck, and thanks for any input.

 Chris Leeds

Independent Apple Specialist

Well Connected Life

Thanks for the general repair guide. The last paragraph states that there are many resources for self-repair of liquid damaged MacBooks. However, none are presented.

Does any one have suggestions for repair guides, books or diagrams targeted for the more advanced independent Mac technician? Titles please?

Thank you.

Chris Leeds,

Well Connect Life

Independent Apple Specialist / owner

From my experience it’s important to carefully press and hold the small button above left of the Battery Discharge label. Use a plastic spudger or finger tip. The illuminated yellow LED to the right will go off. I believe this discharges remaining electricity from logic board protecting it during repair.

* I cannot find any documentation to support this, but I have damaged boards by not including this step.

IMPORTANT. You’re not removing the bottom, yet. This step is solely to separate the panel from its clips, permitting inside access.

Puncturing the battery’s protective covering can lead to release of caustic fumes or fire.

IMPORTANT: If you don’t press the yellow button before removing the trackpad cable on new models, it will KILL your Mac. This I’m reading from fellow contributors. Please tell me, I have not destroyed two MacBooks this way.