iBroke

Samsung Galaxy phones have a long, torrid history of USB port failures. We repair more USB charge ports on Galaxy phones than we do even broken screens. This is a repair that is best left to a reputable shop, unless you are 100% confident you know what you’re doing. Your galaxy S7 device is too expensive to be a DIY guinea pig.

If the SIM reader is in fact damaged, a reputable repair shop can easily solder in a new SIM card reader. We get 2-3 devices with similar issues every month.

You’ve detatched the wifi antenna lead from the motherboard. The antenna is built into the top (black/brown) plastic shroud on the S7. You’ll have to open the phone again, and make sure it has no signs of damage, and is properly attached to the logic board.

Looks like the proximity sensor filter. It goes in the proximity sensor spacer - beside the white filter.

The iPad home button is only affixed to the screen by double-sided adhesive tape on each side of the home button bracket. It is very probable that just wear and tear has degraded the adhesive tape, and it is beginning to let go on the top edge of the bracket mounting pads. When i replace a screen, I will remove the adhesive tape on the home button bracket, clean the surface the bracket mounts to with isopropyl alcohol, and then reinstall the button using B7000, as this will be far more secure than double-sided PSA tape. Unfortunately, there is no way to rectify this without opening the iPad. Opening and properly re-sealing an iPad, is not a job for the faint of heart, so if you don’t know what you’re doing, take it to a reputable repair shop.

Any update on this? I am curious if the new screen worked?

What model iPhone is this? If it is an iPhone 6, Then I would bet dollars to donuts they damaged the backplate flex cable that connects the home button to the motherboard. This cable is very sensitive in most cases your home button will still function but the touch ID will stop working if this cable has been damaged at all. Replacing the back plate with touch ID flex cable will 99% of the time correct this problem.

This issue sounds to me like you have accidentally popped the backlight fuse. This most typically happens with the iPad 4 and iPad Mini, and is caused by removing/reconnecting the digitizer and/or the LCD without first disconnecting the battery (notching a guitar pick and jamming it into the battery connection after removing the single screw is the easiest way to ensure the power is disconnected.) and creating a voltage surge in the logic board. This fuse is very fickle, and will pop very easily. Shining a bright LED flashlight on an angle at the LCD, should allow you to see the Apple logo, so you know it is indeed the backlight fuse. If you determine your issue to be the backlight fuse, you are going to have to either jump/bypass the fuse (not really recommended, but a fast fix), or replace it. There are many articles online with close up pictures to allow you to identify the faulty part.

If you are doing this as more than a hobby, then get into the habit of double-checking and re-applying the tape on EVERY iPad digitizer before you install it. It's going to take you a few tries and re-tries to get it down to a science, but once you do, the 5 minutes that you take to inspect and (if needed) re-tape the digitizers, will save you a ton of stress and going crazy AFTER the digitizer has been installed. I love my screen supplier, and they generally have very good parts, but I have found that iPad screens are very fickle, and need to be inspected/fixed before you try to install them. No exceptions!

** also remove the small Phillips screw fastening the WiFi antenna to the top rear casing of the phone

is this bracket a must replace part, or if damaged/removed, will the camera still function? My only option to replace seems to order from HK and wait 20-50 days ....

If the ESD plate covering the connectors is properly re-attached to the phone, you should not have to do this. The cover holds all the connectors in place just fine.

In reference to your #1 point, this is very good example of why a SCREW-MAT or iCracked Part Chart come in very handy!

Especially in repairs like the 5s ... some screws look the same, but are .01" different ... enough to scratch/break the trace underneath on the logic board .... adding another $100 (and a week travel time by mail, if you cannot do the repair yourself), to your repair - to have it micro-soldered.

With Screw-Mats or iCracked Part Charts, every screw is placed on it's corresponding marker, so you know exactly which screw is which.

If you are in a pinch, and do not have a Screw Mat, you can draw little diagrams on a piece of paper or a dry erase surface, and mark out where each and every screw goes, as sometimes there is that .01" difference in screw sizes, that can really screw up (no pun intended) your repair.

Cheers!