Steve Godun

Have an Asus G75VW that presented itself with a non-bootable system. Booted from a Win10 USB and chkdsk found a crapload...

I have an HP Envy x360 “convertible” that has a damaged POWER and VOLUME UP switch on the motherboard. The VOLUME DOWN...

A friend of mine upgraded his phone and is giving his old iPhone 6 to his kid, so he asked me to clean it up and check it...

Laptop came to me with the issue of “randomly turning off”. After some experimentation I was able to confirm this. It...

I installed Windows 10 on this laptop a few months ago and everything was fine. It came back to me a couple of days ago...

The watch wasn’t dropped or submerged or anything radical like that. One day the watch was working fine, the next day it...

I’ve replaced dozens and dozens of Samsung screens and have ONLY have a problem with the S5. I have one here with a broken...

Starting with a dead (battery discharged) LG Aristo 2: Plug it into a charger and no LED appears on the phone and the...

Vintage monitor in need of a replacement power button (the actual switch, not the cosmetic button). Every Google result I...

Got a ZTE ZFive 2 in very good condition. The phone has never been opened up (security stickers over the screws still in...

I don't see any video. So far it sounds like you bought a really cheap replacement screen.

First confirm whether this is a hardware or software problem. Take note of the physical spot where that key appears on your screen, then launch several apps and see if that specific physical spot recognizes your touch in those apps. (A drawing or doodling app works great for this.) If it DOES then you have a software issue; if it DOES NOT then you've got a hardware issue.

I think you're talking about one of these (the black part): https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig... If that is indeed what you're talking about, it's not a separate part. It's part of the socket that the ribbon cable fits into. Best case scenario is you only broke the black plastic piece and the rest of the socket is intact, in which case you can try to find the same socket elsewhere, pull the black plastic piece off, and push it into place on your iPod. If the socket itself is damaged, however, the proper repair is to replace the whole socket. Otherwise, look for ways to rig a fix. Put some kapton tape on one side of the cable to provide pressure, slide/press it into place, then some more tape to hold it in place and hope it doesn't come loose. Polyimide Tape

Rice won't work and often causes more harm than good; rice flour (caused by friction between the grains) gets inside the phone and hardens around the components, plus at best rice is only going to absorb about 7-10% of the water at most. Best results: Open it up, remove the display, disconnect and remove the battery. Give everything else a bath in 99% isopropyl alcohol; this will displace the water that's still inside. If you have access to a sonic cleaner (e.g., a jewelry cleaner), even better. Blow out most of the alcohol with compressed/canned air and let it dry for maybe an hour in a dehydrator if you have one, otherwise in front of a fan overnight. In the morning reassemble with a new battery and (most likely) a new display.

Short of taking the whole thing apart, I would shut it down, disconnect the battery, and suspend it keyboard-side-down between a couple of blocks or cans or something. Then spray 99% isopropyl into the keyboard to wash out as much of the syrup as you can. Aim a small fan upwards to help it dry; let it sit (always keyboard-side-down so the liquids can't drip further into the computer) overnight to make sure it's completely dried out, then try the keyboard. If it still sticks, repeat. If not, reconnect the battery and give it a go.

Microsoft Surface Pro 3 Display Replacement Be VERY CAREFUL; this is not a repair for clumsy hands as the LCD panel is extraordinarily fragile and will crack under very, very little pressure. Adhesive tape (iFixit sells Tesa) is all you need to reattach the display. Make sure the display and frame are both perfectly clean or the tape won’t hold. Tesa 61395 Tape

It's likely a shorted resistor. This video is for the 6 but the 6 Plus is very similar. I had a 6 Plus with exactly what you're describing and replacing the resistor (my first microsolder repair!) fixed it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4AJK4mIF...

The one marked just “Screen” comes as a “Part Only” or a “Fix Kit”. The “Part Only” includes (in addition to the screen) a pre-installed earpiece, bracket, front camera/flex cable assembly, and LCD backplate, which means the only thing you need to move over from your current screen is the home button. The “Fix Kit” includes all of that plus the tools you’d need to do the repair. The one marked “LCD and Digitizer” is just the screen. You will need to move the earpiece, bracket, front camera/flex cable assembly and LCD backplate over from your current screen, in addition to your home button. It does not include any tools. The easiest way is the “Screen” option but that might mean buying things you don’t need, and really it only removes about 5-10 minutes from the repair process if you’ve never done it before. If you already have the tools then you’re just paying for tools you don’t need. If your existing earpiece, flex cable, etc are good then you’re paying for parts that you don’t need.

Rice and similar home remedies don't work, and in fact often cause more harm. Right now you have Schrodinger's Phone; it's both broken and not-broken. Its destiny depends a bit on luck and a lot on what you do next. The PROPER thing to do is a COMPLETE disassembly, inspection, and cleaning of the motherboard. Reassemble using new ancillary parts (new charging port, new home flex cable, new rear camera, etc), install a new screen and battery, and hope for the best. The good news is if the phone turns on and functions properly after doing this, the odds are very high that there are no secret/unknown problems with the phone and it will likely have a normal lifespan. If you cut corners (e.g., just replace the screen) then you run the risk of allowing corrosion, contamination, or electrical issues to affect your phone in possibly strange and/or phone-damaging ways. A tiny bit of contamination or oxidation under the wrong part of a chip can be a phone-destroying issue.

Nope. This is like the home button on the iPhones; Apple puts in a hardware lock as a “security measure” (which, conveniently, only Apple can circumvent). If you want the screen replaced AND retain NFC functionality, you must pray at the Altar of Fruit.

I believe a revision needs to be made to this guide.

I have a Beats Studio headphone with a “v1.8” revision motherboard, and there is an additional wire in play. Look at the picture of the motherboard in step 14 of this guide. In the upper-right “corner” is one of the screw holes that holds the motherboard to the housing, and directly above it is a large round solder pad. On the v1.6 motherboard this pad is empty, but on the v1.8 motherboard there’s a single-conductor wire that goes from that pad to the very tip of the metal “spring band” that goes over your head while wearing the headphones. Yes, it’s soldered directly to that “spring band”. I suspect this is some kind of grounding wire.