Steve Godun

Got a Brother PT-10 that has worked fine for literally decades, until someone who shall not be named accidentally plugged...

I've inherited an HP Color LaserJet Pro M277dw with two issues. First, if I put more than about 30-40 sheets of paper in...

This is a craptastic tablet and I’m quite frankly shocked that there are literally zero references to it on iFixit and...

Customer brought in a Power Mac G5 with a failed HD, and for reasons decided to upgrade to an SSD. I put an Samsung PRO...

Have an Asus G75VW that presented itself with a non-bootable system. Booted from a Win10 USB and chkdsk found a crapload...

I have an HP Envy x360 “convertible” that has a damaged POWER and VOLUME UP switch on the motherboard. The VOLUME DOWN...

A friend of mine upgraded his phone and is giving his old iPhone 6 to his kid, so he asked me to clean it up and check it...

Laptop came to me with the issue of “randomly turning off”. After some experimentation I was able to confirm this. It...

I installed Windows 10 on this laptop a few months ago and everything was fine. It came back to me a couple of days ago...

The watch wasn’t dropped or submerged or anything radical like that. One day the watch was working fine, the next day it...

Just because of the "turn off after a small bump" issue I'm going to say that the battery and/or logic board are not fully in place. Bumping as you describe would shift the electrode contact just enough to turn the unit off and on again. Your application of pressure near the location would also go with that.

Define "copying". By default, the Windows version of iTunes behaves differently than the Mac version. On a Mac, when you drag-drop files into the iTunes window, iTunes copies -- makes a duplicate -- the file into the iTunes folder stored inside the user's home folder. If you then delete the file you just dragged into iTunes, the copy that iTunes made still remains and is playable. On Windows, iTunes does not make a duplicate; it only adds the reference to the file to the iTunes music list. If you delete the file you just dragged into iTunes, iTunes will report the song as being not found. Both of these default behaviors can be changed by the user. So when you say "copied" are you saying "cannot be added to iTunes" (the default Windows behavior) or are you saying "iTunes is unable to make a duplicate" (the optional Windows behavior)? Where did these MP3 files come from? Do you have ANY music in iTunes? If so, can you export one, delete it from iTunes, then re-import it?

Two two screws are just Philips #000. Assuming you're using the correct screwdriver and you haven't stripped the screws, a good way to get a tight screw loosened is to actually tighten it a tiny bit first. This "breaks" the seal that the screw may have with its matching thread, making it much easier to loosen and back ou.

"I also noticed the adhesive on part of the battery came loose and I can hear it flopping around as I take my MacBook out of its case. Is it normal for this to be happening this early?" It is not normal for the adhesive to come loose. You'll want to secure that as a loose battery can damage the internal wiring and possibly cause Bad Things to happen. I have yet to find a quality aftermarket battery for an Apple laptop that lasts more than a year. Most of the ones I've encountered fail after 3-6 months. YMMV, of course; that's just my experience.

It randomly starts working and then it doesn't because you broke your iPod's screen in such a way that there's now a damaged circuit that randomly connects and shorts.

Given no other information, I would go with "failed hard drive".

Remove the keyboard cable, clean the contacts with IPA, reassemble and give it a try. If it persists you may need a new top housing.

Reseat the cartridge. Clean the contacts on the cartridge and the cartridge carrier. Use an OEM Epson cartridge.

"The motherboard gets hot when I press the power button to turn the phone on but the screen is black." This is motherboard damage, specifically the power IC. Repair requires microsoldering skills. I recommend iPadRehab’s mail-in service.

Unless your “humidity” is the rough equivalent of leaving your MacBook inside your bathroom with a hot shower running all day, the odds are very against humidity being the culprit. My first guess would be a failing SSD. Several of the symptoms you’ve mentioned — slow boot, slow login, etc — are indicative of this. I would try opening the bottom case and removing the SSD drive inside. Then close it up, connect a USB3 drive to your MacBook, launch internet recovery (COMMAND-OPTION-R at startup), then install the OS to the USB3 drive and boot from that. If your performance issues go away then you may be looking at a failing SSD. If you’re lucky then replacing the SSD would solve your problem, but there’s also the possibility that the motherboard itself is having an issue communicating with the SSD drive in which case replacing the SSD would not solve your problem.

I’ve added a new, better picture with additional clarification. Hope this helps.

Step 17 shows the logic board being removed with the port cover intact. Step 30 shows the logic board without the port cover. There’s no mention in between of how that cover comes off. Anyone?

This is unnecessary. You need only open the tan cable release latch from either end of the cable, remove the cable from the socket, and move the cable out of the way.

I believe a revision needs to be made to this guide.

I have a Beats Studio headphone with a “v1.8” revision motherboard, and there is an additional wire in play. Look at the picture of the motherboard in step 14 of this guide. In the upper-right “corner” is one of the screw holes that holds the motherboard to the housing, and directly above it is a large round solder pad. On the v1.6 motherboard this pad is empty, but on the v1.8 motherboard there’s a single-conductor wire that goes from that pad to the very tip of the metal “spring band” that goes over your head while wearing the headphones. Yes, it’s soldered directly to that “spring band”. I suspect this is some kind of grounding wire.