Hi Ross … YES … having experienced similar ‘errors’ on ours, I would say yes!!
Here are a few of my thoughts on this topic:
Narrow down the probability of “cap failure” (actually it’s often a gradual failure) would be to try the “old hairdryer trick”. Take your, or wife’s, hairdryer … blow over the control panel for approx 45 seconds to get the control board up to >68F (commonly quoted ‘temp’ above which failing caps can exhibit life. If no errors, follow direction above (w-helper), pull cooktop, unscrew cover, look at 2 large caps (see Picts of failed caps).
During our gradual ‘er- coding’, as room temp reached >68F the cooktop worked normally … for short time.
Plan, practice soldering on a junk PCB, read rec’s above, review pics, get tools & caps (mine Nichicon/Japan, or Panasonic/Japan) with temp of 105F or higher @ 35v … MIND THE CAP_LENGTH for fit (digikey.com specs)
‘New PCB’is $$$. Web-search “Repair of Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors’ on PCB’s, for more info!
Tools NOTE: I ordered and used the “AVEN 17010 Adjustable Circuit Board Holder” (Home Depot or Amazon or EBay or 100 other places) for about $12 … It worked extremely well to solidly hold the PCB while I worked on it. It was the cheapest and by far my favorite choice to adjust the position of the PCB as I removed and replaced the Capacitors!!
Dennis in Cupertino, CA
CORRECTION: For excellent information about CAPACITOR FAILURES, the correct link is:
… the site explains why many consumer products have experienced excessive rates of failure in these parts.
The "35v" caps, that I chose to install (Panasonic) continue to perform excellently ... NO issues at all with HEAVY USE! When picking a replacement it is important to carefully CONSIDER the overall dimension/SIZE of the replacement caps, available replacement space is limited (read "MASSIVE THANK YOU" (in this fixit thread). Also in my review I list two different "replacement" caps that I found readily available ... Both with much higher heat tolerances ... Their "heat tolerance" is a very important consideration, particularly when the cooktop is located above an oven ... The heat typically shortens the life of the Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors .... So check the overall dimensional size of your replacement caps against the "maximum" available space listed in my previous review, to insure the cap will fit without being too tight (squashed into the PCB). NOTE: original cap was by SAMWHA ( 'original' spec-sheet in my prior review), Look at: www.badcaps.org a education on cap-failure.
MASSIVE THANK YOU !
Fnd 2 blown Caps as in photo
OEM Bosch Cap:
10mm x 16mm
Max Cap size avail for replacements: 12.5 mm x 21.5 mm.
I used Nichicon VZ(M) Series, 470uF, 35v, 105c www.digikey.com ; possible rpl fit - Panasonic TP Series 470uF, 35v, 125c, 12.5mm x 20.55 mm.
-Enclosure TORX #20;
-Soldering temp 760-770 F;
* Big help: “micro-drills” for PCB $3 / Amazon Ebay; bits cleared solder in holes:
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