Get quick access to guides, parts, and answers for your devices
Похоже, что ваша корзина пуста
If the thermistor was burnt, the power wouldn’t be cut. The iron would still be on but with no steam. So you should look for other causes. Such as other components on the power and control board.
Sorry I can’t help more without more details and access.
Sorry for the late response.
Unfortunately I can’t speak Dutch ; But from Google translate, this is what I understood:
“Hi Omid, I have the Philips GC9224 / 20. If it has just warmed up, the steam function will still work. After a few minutes, the steam function stops working, but the boiler continues to heat. The steam then comes out through the side of the station. Do you think this is the thermistor?Thank you very much for your answer!Gr. Ben “
If the steam has low pressure and volume it can be the thermistor.
But if steam after coming out “through the side” still has high pressure/volume; then no it is not the thermistor. It can be the safety mechanism(or valve). If broken it leaks before the pressure has built up enough to come out and steam will go back to the water tank and maybe the sides.
I will try to post a picture of it.
Sure, ask your question and I’ll help, if I know about it.
Thanks for the effort. I already have a lot of them: 10k 20k 30k 100k.. since I work in electronics. I don't need to buy one and I don't have access to a Philips spare parts.
My problem is I don't know which one to use; so that the iron won't overheat and break or degrade its performance.
I've seen the manual. Unfortunately it doesn't state the value of the thermistor and I don't have another unit to open and measure it.
If you have access to one; could you kindly measure its value by an Ohm Meter? just putting the probe across it terminal or in the connector on the main PCB.
I added a replacement guide detailing it with pictures. We can publish its value for others to use too.
Philips Pressurised Steam Generator Iron GC8220 and Similar Models' Temperature Sensor (NTC Thermistor) Replacement
(I used the boiler picture from your guide if it is OK. I have linked to your guide as the main teardown guide)
Your model is different, but if it is similar to the pictures above this may help:
After ensuring there is no problem with calc. in the valve or pump; it may be the electronics. If so and the warranty is no more helpful:
A TRIAC (Z0103 or BT13x) drives the valve(It is on the power supply board). Check if its burnt. If good; check its driving signal all the way to the control board. Also make sure the power supply is stable. It the biggest capacitor and resistor and the diodes around them. its around 20~24V and the control board's supply is 5V.
Or some related component may be at fault.(all the cap and other transistors...)
The original Philips spare boards may be hard to find but;
The components on the PCB's are familiar and can be found and replaced easily(except for the uC IC) if you find the fault. Someone with electronics education can do it.
Hope it helps
Thanks for the helpful guide. I joined this website to ask you a question.
I have opened mine and successfully found the source of my problem( steam function's stopped working.. ). It is the temperature sensor below the boiler unit(by the 2 thermal fuses) that is damaged. It is an NTC thermistor that looks like a glass diode and it is connected to the control board via a connector.
These thermistors don't have a any markings, And I don't have access to any Philips rep.
I have the components available but they come in a range of values (10k ... 100k); wondering which one to use.
Could you please tell me its value? If you don't already know and have access to an opened unit, It can be measured with an Ohm meter.
These values (10k ... 100k ) are at 25 C temperature. So if it is 30+ degree C where you are; it must read a bit lower than them.
I'd really appreciate it.