The front portion of the side of the cover with the vents was kind of stuck on mine. There’s a little rubber piece in there that was the cause of this. But that same rubber piece also makes up the little handle-shaped nub that sticks out of the side there. (There’s also one at the back of the same side, but that one didn’t stick for me.) Lifting also using the little handle made it easy to remove the cover.
When you reassemble the eye relief mechanism, there’s an important protrusion on the gear wheel (center piece in the third photo). The center gear is raised on a smooth circle; there’s a small protrusion on this circle that acts as a stop. It’s barely visible at the 3 o’clock position in the third image here, and in about the 1 o’clock position on the second image. The socket it meshes with, visible in the second image, has a corresponding raised ridge that limits the wheel to only a half turn overall, just enough to get it from the minimum relief setting to the maximum. When you’re reassembling it, it’s best to slide the piece to the minimum eye relief setting (since gravity will keep it there) and align the protrusion with the bottom edge of the ridge in the socket. If you don't pay attention to this and just slap the thing together, you’ll have a reduced range of eye relief adjustments.
The Torx screw is a T6.
You also should not yet remove the two screws on the top of the lens side that are slightly further out than the ones connecting the shell. The ones you need to remove on the top side are quite far forward; the ones you do not are roughly on the same plane as the near side of where the cable covering clips on.
The screws you need to remove at the sides on the perimeter are quite recessed, behind the sensors that stretch back from the front shell. There are indentations in the plastic near these screws to accommodate your screwdriver, which should help you find them.
The sensor array is held on by 13 phillips screws: 8 around the perimeter (see the brass inserts in the third photo), one dead center, and four sort of half way between the corners and the center. The ones around the perimeter are accessed from the lens side of the headset; the other five are accessed from the sensor shell side. There are also two plastic tabs to press down while removing it; these are at the bottom, near the microphone. You can barely see them at the bottom of the third picture. When you are looking for the perimeter screws on the lens side of things, there will be two phillips screws visible near these tabs--these should *not* be removed at this time. The perimeter screws on the bottom are further out. There are only two perimeter screws on the bottom to remove now.
You will not be able to remove the press-fit connector until the plate is partly removed, so be careful while you lift it off. It should come gently; if it doesn't, you've missed a screw or tab.
Pulling back the shell is considerably easier said than done. If you can stick a spudger under the front just above the midline, you can break the grip that some glue has on the shell, which makes it much easier to remove. I got pretty nervous pulling these sections off, given the array of delicate ribbon cables hiding under them.
Однажды Они, Вы смогут просмотреть график вашего рейтинга, накопленного за всё время.
Репутация еще не заработана.