Bernie

This Macbook Pro was given to me sans battery. Has a fractured LCD support frame but it works. I propped up the LCD lid on...

I was given a Macbook Pro mid2009 15” with fractured LCD supports near the base. Still works though, I propped up the...

MacAir 11'‘ Late 2010 with a bulging battery (keyboard puffed up). Charger cord shows a green light. It powers on with the...

Friend brought an early 13” 2015 Macbook Air to me. Dark screen but the image is there if I shine a flashlight to it. I...

I have been called upon to replace a bad 500 GB hard drive in a late 2012 Mac mini. I want to use an SSD as a drop-in...

Running Yosemite with a half terabyte HDD. Laptop sometimes hangs, apparently not heat related. I have tried repairing...

Power Adaptor is connected, charging is normal (orange light is lighted on the adaptor connector). No signs of life and no...

When I press the power button, the main fan starts and keeps on moving. But apart from this, nothing else happens No LED...

Original OS was 10.6 now updated to 10.9. How do I go about making a USB stick startup complete with Disk Utility and...

I have many white Macbook models and was wondering what the maximum capacity hard drives they can take.

Update: I removed the bloated battery but still can’t boot from the SSD. It’s probably corrupted. So I booted from the USB stick I had for late 2010 Mac Airs and formatted the main drive (Mac OS Journalled). I tried to restore the OS (using Disk Utilities) from the hidden partition containing the factory disk image in it but still no joy. I ended up installing the original Snow Leopard OS from the USB stick into the main partition and now everything works.

Sorry for the typo, it's 13" not 12".

Problem solved! I have done some more research in the past days and found that the format I did on the hard drive in target mode defaults to Master Boot Record (MBR). Powerbooks can boot only from drives formatted with Apple Partition Map (APM). So, I redid the erase command from Disk Utility and went into the Advanced options below the screen, selected one partition choice, clicked on APM, and proceeded to erase. A new cloning of the drive fixed the issue and now allows the Powerbook to boot from its own drive. Now to get a proper install disk. Yes, thanks for the tip, Mayer, I know iBooks and Powerbooks can be upgraded to Leopard if the processor runs 867 MHz or faster. RAM should be 1 GB or more to run them fluidly.

Sorry for your iPhone, but if any work on it is done by anyone not authorized by Apple, the warranty is automatically void.

Well, I did boot up my powerbook in target mode, connected it by firewire cable to the iBook, power up the iBook and immediately pressed <option> key. Shortly, the ibook screen showed the 2 bootable OS'es. I chose the powerbook hard drive, but there's no change. The iBook screen still goes dark and the machine goes into hibernation. Looks like it's really a logicboard problem.

Law of supply and demand. Black models were uncommon then, hence more demand when the lid and LCD inside need fixing. The innards, though, are no different than their white counterparts.

Most likely worst case scenario: dead device. Update: If you don't do it right, you could get the power leads or voltage to where they don't belong. Hence possibility of a dead device is strong.

Oui, iBook G4 utilisent généralement une carte Airport Extreme. Espérons que cela résout votre problème. Vous pouvez les trouver sur ebay. La batterie doit être retirée avant d'installer la carte.

Update: A 600 MHz G3 iBook was brought to me. Symptom was it gets perpetually stuck in the opening screen with the Apple logo and spinning wheel icon on boot. Hard drive problem with OS, I surmise. So I connect it to my Powerbook via a firewire cable and boot it in target mode. It doesn't mount. So I launch Disk Utility and the bad iBook HDD shows up in it. I erase it with the Utility tools, and everything seems good. I try to clone my Powerbook HDD to it with SuperDuper! but after 80% of the process is done I get an error message and the process aborts. Looks like the target HDD finally gave up the ghost.

Hmmmm, I've looked more closely at ifixit guides for upper case removal and the earlier keyboards don't seem to be the same as the later ones. For example, I've removed the top case in my 1.25 GHz model A1046 and, as the pictures in the guide show, the keyboard has TWO ribbon cables - a narrow amber and a thicker one-inch wide clear cable. Looking at the guides for the 1.5 and 1.67 GHz models A1106 and A1138, I see only a narrow amber ribbon cable. I don't see the inch-wide clear ribbon.

The Mac Mini 2012 needed a Torx 9 screwdriver. Torx 8 was too small. I agree, no need to do steps 10 and beyond. Also, no need to do step 5 (remove the fan cabling). I see step 5 as a dangerous move that can damage the socket esp if the solder underneath has weakened. I merely set the fan away from the area where I needed to work on the hard drive.