I just wonder whether any of you here experience same issue. So i got two customers come to my place, with their iPhone X...

Hi Guys, so i got this iPhone 6+ that the screen suddenly gone blank, i thought it was the LCD, so i bought new LCD and...

Hi, so i actually accidently broke my iPhone 4 battery connector, it ripped off from the board, but since all soldering...

So, the problem is as I mentioned above, I simply can't hear anything from earpiece receiver, I can only make calls using...

Kioxia Exceria Plus.

People always said that Sintech & Sabrent is the best combo, while for most of cases in A1708, it's not. Well, in fact for most of cases Sintech is no longer relevant, since other makers already catch up with the wiring map, and do even better with the PCB cutting and connector plating. for A1708 (or even A1502, A1398, A1465 and A1466) the key is always on the SSD Controller and Firmware. The one with custom/in house controller like Samsung and Western Digital will have more tendency to have compatibility problem compared to the one using a more universally adopted controller (named Silicon Motion and/or Phison), combined with the firmware, will decide whether those SSD can provide sleep and power management on your macOS or not. The one using less popular controller (like Realtek - mostly used by ADATA) might also causing issues. I've been using this SSD bellow for around 3 years, and so far having no issues related to sleep, energy drain, restart, update (installed it back in Catalina days, and am on...

The key is choosing right SSD and Adapter. Pick one with Silicon Motion Controller, and 99.99% you will be fine. Other controller like Phison, WD, Samsung, etc not always playing nice with A1708. If you happen to face the question mark upon reboot. Key is, not to reboot, but shutdown instead. It will detect the SSD just fine when turning on.

So i managed to install a new SSD to A1708 2017 MacBook Pro using this adapter. The catch is, just like i mentioned before, u need 2230 or 2242 SSD for a perfect fit. If you really like to bet, 2280 is actually work as well, but you gonna need to insulate it with either kepton tape or insulation tape so that it wont touch any other components directly on the motherboard. Procedure is quite straight forward, you open up the bottom cover, disconnect battery, take off left speaker (it blocking the way to slide out the original ssd), unscrew the original ssd, take it out and put the new one inside. In my case, i already preinstalled the OS using an NVME to USB C adapter, so i just need to hold ALT on boot to speed up the macbook in finding OS drive. But if you can’t do preinstallation, you can simpky use USB installer. Of course at least Mojave is recommended. The SSD i tried is BC511 512GB from SK Hynix with 2230 form factor. Speed wise, it’s not bad, hitting 2Gigs per sec on sequential. If i were to use pro...

There’s few things u need to take a look and try at : (1) BootRom Version, some EFI Bootrom version is simply buggy in relation with NVME support. I would suggest you to either installing latest Catalina (10.15.3) to push your BootRom to newest possible. or use the standalone BootRom Updater by dosdude1 here : https://ipfs.io/ipfs/QmZ5KmpG4SeHF8gWrHm... (guy who made catalina and mojave patcher and make it possible to install on older mac) (2) Adapter revision (if you are using NVME adapter for your SSD), but if you are on OWC Aura, then you can either check whether there is firmware update for your drive or get back to their support team. What is your adapter maker, most used and trusted is SinTech, but even they have many revisions since 2013 till now (some of their versions have an exposed metal part that might cause short with the SSD socket on the mainboard. Chenyang is also well known maker and have similar to same performance with SinTech. Both rarely caused panic with any NVME Stick. Other than...

Try putting back your old battery first and see whether it boot. It might be just the replacement battery was a bad quality one.

Try wireless charging it. Does it charge up ? If yes, at least you know that the charging IC doesnt broke. Also, try to recheck your insttalation. Whether there is any loose connection. The fact that your phone only stay on for few minutes is quite worrying though

all we can say is that all iphone battery was made in china... :) btw, here's the company list that manufactured iPhone's part (according to reuter data) : According to Reuters, Jyly 2, 2007 Following are some of the key parts and their makers that have been identified so far: 1. South Korea's Samsung Electronics Co. Ltd. (005930.KS: Quote, Profile, Research) makes the main processor as well as the flash memory chips that store music, photos and other user data * 2. The processor is based on an architecture licensed from Britain's ARM Holdings Plc (ARM.L: Quote, Profile, Research) # 3. Germany's Infineon Technologies (IFXGn.DE: Quote, Profile, Research) supplies the phone's transceiver and baseband processor # 4. Britain's Wolfson Microelectronics Plc (WLF.L: Quote, Profile, Research) makes the audio processing chip. Wolfson already supplies audio chips for Apple's popular iPods * 5. U.S.-based Marvell Technology Group Ltd. (MRVL.O: Quote, Profile, Research) makes the Wi-Fi chip that allows the iPhone to...

just to make sure, try to use voice recorder, if u can record ur voice properly, means no prob with the microphone... and probably the problem is with software or the proxim sensor...

Unlock would be the solution....

This step need a better picture of how the speaker and microphone looked from beneath the board, so people can understand where they should pry with the stick tool to wiggle the adhesive. In my case, it was the microphone that stucked, luckily the connector of the mic itself wigle off when i pull the board sideway. N fortunately the connector wasnt torned.

For any of you have difficulty in this step i would suggest to actually disconnect the socket of the mic from the board first, and then only pull the mic itself from the upper case.