Michael Walsh

I have a Macbook Pro mid-2009 15”. My question is this: Where is the cicuitry that drives the backlight display located?...

Macbook Pro, mid-2009, 15” - screen repair In this ifixit repair image the person is shown using a blue pry-device to...

To all. I bought a faulty Mac with this problem and I’m about to fix it using an epoxy resin glue. I won’t know how well it works for a few months but I’ll report back if I remember. But for anyone about to attempt this repair job be aware that aluminum is a highly-reactive metal that reacts with oxygen very quickly and forms a very thin, nearly invisible layer of aluminum oxide on its surface that protecst it from further oxidation (the aluminum’s equivalent of rust). However, and most importantly, the Al Oxide surface layer is very resistant to glues, and epoxy resin will NOT adhere to it very well. I tried it and found that I could peel the epoxy off the aluminum shell easily after 48 hours. The aluminum surface needs to be properly prepared for the epoxy by sanding it down to clean shiny metal, then applying the epoxy resin glue very quickly afterwards. “How quick is quickly?” you might ask. I have not determined the time yet but by practicing on an old aluminum sardine can I found that if the cleaned...

There is another flat black rectangular heat sink between the heatsink listed above and the speaker/microphone bracket.

It is worth replacing the thermal paste under it too. It is held in place by two T6 torx screws.

As a couple of others have mentioned (above), I too had trouble getting these two screws out too. My problem was that they had corroded and locked into their threaded sockets. Also, the corrosion had rotted out the inside shape of the Phillips slots so that no screwdriver would fit properly.

I had to cut the cover down the middle and bend it up and out of the way.

Aaron. The small black piece of plastic is one of two clips. The other is to the left of the one you mention. On the inside of the bottom case there are two small metal tabs that slip into these two black plastic clips.

In my opinion the RAM should be removed first - i.e., before the battery is removed.

The RAM DIMMS are just in the way if they are left in their sockets on the logic board until step 33.

I cannot see any useful reason to not remove them very early in the sequence.

The BATTERY MUST BE DISCONNECTED - it is NOT OPTIONAL if you are going to remove the logic board.

These instructions are for Removing The Logic Board, so if that is what you are going to do the battery MUST be disconnected.

The informational item beginning with the words “For certain repairs (e.g. hard drive), disconnecting the battery connector is not necessary … “ is NOT applicable to a set of instructions on removing a logic board and it should be deleted from this otherwise excellent set of instructions.