The display enclosure ranges from $11 to $40 on eBay and Amazon (The entire display assembly including the LCD panel, etc. is $120-$180). To replace it requires the entire display assembly to be removed and disassembled, which means the laptop has to be disassembled as well. This is a time consuming repair and likely labor expensive. This PDF, http://www.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c03943414.p..., has the directions for disassembly (pages 55-63 for the display assembly itself). I can't tell if any other parts were cracked from your question, but replacing any other parts such as the palm rest (which wraps around on many models) isn't likely to add much if any to the labor cost. Some local computer repair shops will do this type of repair, I do this type of repair myself. The labor costs vary so much I can't guess at an estimate of the labor in your area. I think $150 is fair, but is likely much more.

It's usually not very difficult to insert the keyboard ribbon cable. The hardest part is usually getting a grip on the ribbon cable itself, or seeing exactly where to slide it in. The one in the photo, however is a little more difficult since there isn't a "tab" on the ribbon to "angle" and pull or push the end of the ribbon cable into the connector. If you're a little older like I am ( early 40's), reading glasses are a big help. I got the most powerful common kind of $10 reading glasses I could find (I only use them for computer repair or looking at fine details on my iPhone 5). They have a "power" of +3.00. Reading glasses (cheap ones) usually come in +1.00, +1.25, +1.5, ... up to +3.00 power (strength/magnification). After looking closer at the photo, and looking at the same connector on one of my 15" MacBook Pros (they look the same as the 13" MacBook Pros), it looks like the retaining flap is in the down/locked position. This flap is very short (thin) and runs the entire length of the connector on...

I use a Swiffer duster from above at the last moment before I let the magnets grab the glass cover. This has worked so well the last dozen or so times I’ve replaced a glass cover since I never have access to a “clean room” and don’t wear a “bunny suit”.

Also, more dust will shed from your skin if you’ve just taken a shower, so I like to finish these repairs in the morning before a shower.

I had that problem, the Volume, Power button flex cable got a small tear in it somewhere, I couldn't find tears in the copper traces, but there was. I had to change the flex cable, and it's the hardest job I ever did. Any iPhone job is a piece of cake compared to this!

Follow the directions for replacing this Sleep/Power button flex cable in the ifixit guide. It requires taking just about everything apart and most of it's glued on! The battery was the hardest part, don't worry, it'll deform, but you can flatten it back out, just don't puncture it! Also, you have to solder the flex cable onto four solder pads on the logic board. If you watch a couple of videos of how to solder and USE FLUX, you'll be surprised how well solder flows exactly they way you want.

Good luck with it, don't bend the board too much, but it's still tougher than it looks. After I replaced this cable, I thought for sure after the abuse and soldering and bending, it was done for. Seeing sleep button WORK was glorious sight to see!

I have to add to my previous comment about switching a mid-2009 15 inch MacBook Pro display to a late 2008 MacBook Pro. The reed switch that causes the computer to sleep when closing the display is on the other side. I tested this by holding a broken display (which has lots of magnets across the top) near the right side and this 2.53 GHz late-2008 Unibody MacBook Pro went to sleep. The magnet for the reed switch on the mid-2009 display is about halfway up the left side of the display. So I didn't notice this until I tried to close the MacBook and the backlight stayed on.

So while the display works perfectly and the hinges, camera cable, and LVDS cable match, the reed switch magnet is on the left side now (that meets the ExpressCard/34 slot, instead of the SD Card slot) instead of on the right (near the security slot) where the actual reed switch is for the late-2008 MacBook Pros.

I can just choose sleep from the Apple Menu every time, or put a tiny "refrigerator" magnet on the right side of the display.

This is a great guide. I also read the guide pertaining to the 2.53 GHz Mid-2009 MacBook Pro Display Assembly.

I wanted to report that I successfully removed the display assembly from a Mid-2009 MacBook Pro (2.53 GHz - no discrete graphics) and installed it on the Late-2008 MacBook Pro (2.53 GHz with dual graphics).

Everything appears to be identical, except (strangely) the screws, that are generally captive in the camera cable and the LVDS cable, need to stay with their original MacBook Pro. Meaning, keep all the screws with the same MacBook Pro. The other screws did appear to be identical though.

Bottom line, keep the screws to the same MacBook. That's easy enough, just remove the captive screws from the cables to keep them with the same MacBook Pro they were from.

(Also, the camera cable where it attaches the logic board was slightly closer to the optical drive and seemed to overlap it slightly when transferring the Mid-2009 display to the Late-2008 MacBook Pro. This didn't seem to pose a problem.)