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I could easily have skipped the full teardown, but I decided to do so for the extra room to manipulate the batteries. I didn’t use the adhesive remover, just shoved the cards under the batteries and worked them free. Isopropyl 91% to clean up the residue. Some makeup remover pads were useful as well to let sit on the remaining residue to help saturate them before scrubbing clean. Re-assembly took about 1 hour carefully. Removed a lot of dust along the way. :-) Now the machine is in tip-top shape. Thanks for the guide! Even though it’s a little ambitious just to get the speakers out of the way, you did outline the worst case scenario and give adequate direction along the way to prevent anyone from getting lost.
As said by others, you would probably be fine to skip the teardown steps and just go for a battery removal with the logic board in place.
Yes, lift about 5-10 degrees first, then pull out. If you do not release the adhesive, it may be stuck in place and you could damage the card trying to pull it out.
Sockets are ZIF with releasing levers on the top. If you pull up on the top padding, you will reveal silver lever handels facing the rear of the machine. Pry up on the LEVER to release the pressure, then pull the lever straight up to release the connector from the socket. DO NOT pry under the edge of the connector to remove these or you may damage the ZIF socket. They may have changed these connectors between models, otherwise I don’t know how this was overlooked in the guide.
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Successfully completed MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement.
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Liked MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Late 2013 Battery Replacement.
Liked MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2009 Heat Sink Replacement.
Liked MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2009 Logic Board Replacement.
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