Michael

Not sure tbh! It is quite a tight fit inside, the output ports of the H170n might be too deep - the iMac MB is obv designed to specifically fit the space. Potentially the existing PSU might power the MB? Good luck!

Hi there,

Sounds like a gamma profile issue - have you tried different profiles?

Or calibrating manually? http://osxdaily.com/2015/10/14/access-ex...

The brightness is something never managed to adjust properly, but find using Shades as a passable alternative http://www.charcoaldesign.co.uk/shades

Hope this helps!

There is actually way less space available than it would appear and the whole structure of the MacBook is based around its unibody frame - without that, you would need a whole lot of mounting posts etc, need sufficient cooling etc - not worth the effort when all I wanted was a cheap fix - I also use the screenless MacBook with other monitors at times too.

I can imagine standard components to make a Hackintosh inside an iMac case would be easier, especially if using a 24” case - check our this epic build https://www.tonymacx86.com/threads/erste...

Just search on eBay! Many for sale from China - you may need to change the “Item location” filter to “Worldwide”.

Please note that I note that that probably isn’t your screen’s full model number - it should be suffixed with four characters like (SL)(C1) or (SL)(A3) - make sure to note this and order the correct controller board. Good luck!

Glad you find it useful! And thanks for adding some tips - good point about the screens, different variants have different screens - always search for the model number wrote on your screen as a different driver board will not work.

I hadn’t thought about a DVI cable, but great info and workaround. I had thought about mounting the buttons at the RAM slot, but for some reason decided aganst it but glad it worked for you.

On my screen the buttons do work, but it stays lit up even when it has gone to sleep - I also just unplug.

Glad this guide has been useful to so many people over a year since I wrote it :-)

Hi Luis,

This build is a 20”, not 24”. Well done on getting the original inverter to work, it isn’t something I looked into much as seemed problematic to get working right - and my kit came with an inverter, but I see your kit seems different and doesn’t - does it look something like this - http://www.b2cqshop.com/yourqshop/Q06215... ?

I presume you have been referring to the service manual for pin outs and such? http://www.beyondinfinite.com/lcd/Librar...

Seems to be someone with a similar problem maybe - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3LGwZq_... ?

Sorry I can’t be of any further help, good luck!

If it lights up, it sounds like the inverter is working fine,

Is the OSD appearing on the screen “saying no signal” or anything if you press the buttons on the driver?

If not, I would check the LVDS connection:

- is it in the correct way round at the screen and / or the driver side? (Normally fits in either way, but should be marked with a dot to indicate)

- check it for any damage to the cable - the pins at the monitor side on my cable were actually bent and I needed a replacement cable initially.

Hope this helps!

Mike

Hi Steve,

The black tape is just standard electrical tape.

Although the inverter and LCD driver board are mounted on posts, away from the EMI, I used electrical tape to insulate under the LCD driver board, just to be safe. I didn't need to do this, as with my inverter, as it came contained within a clear plastic case.

I also used electrical tape to attach the controller board to the back of the iMac directly - I possibly cut away the EMI, but I can't say for sure - however the button side of the controller board doesn't have any contacts that could short anyway.

I just used standard aluminium foil tape - the thicker the better, my stuff was very thin, so I used a couple of layers, didn't need much though.

Hope this helps!

It would probably be possible, but would not make sense to do so - the LCD driver boards normally come with an inverter.

To use the original inverter, you would need some way to power it - maybe the driver board could do this, but if it has different power requirements, you will need a separate power supply for the inverter. And a way to control it. And a way to power it on and off...

I can think of no reason for wanting to do this.

These are the posts I used in 9.5mm height - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162113127488 but any self-adhesive posts around 9.5mm would work.

For insulation underneath it and other areas, I used plain black insulation tape. For any EM shielding repair, I used some aluminium foil tape.

Tips? Just follow the instructions carefully, and be delicate with the LVDS cable, it is delicate. As it is a larger monitor, it is possible you might need to position components slightly differently to ensure cables reach.

Good luck! :-)