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This is the first generation of the Ford Escape, a compact crossover SUV. Production started in 2000 for the 2001 model year.

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Removing the ac compressor from my Ford Escape?

How do I replace the ac compressor on my 2004 Ford Escape?

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oldturkey03 has you covered if you can follow all of that, it looks like its right out of the Ford shop manual. You don't say why you are replacing your compressor. I would like to stress the safety issue with the pressurized system. To do it by the book the freon should be captured and reused but there are so many after market DIY a/c repair products and so much counterfeit freon on the market I prefer to replace the freon with new gas and hope it is actually the real stuff and if it isn't it will at least be all the same type!

You need to be sure there are no debris lose in the system. If the compressor suffered a mechanical failure there could be pieces of metal hiding anywhere in the system and just flushing the system may not get them out. You need to break the system down in order to flush, under pressure, the different sections in both directions. If the desiccant bag inside of the receiver/dryer has ruptured the entire system could be full of tiny little resin beads that could have caused the compressor failure and all of them have to be removed. Thats why you need to replace the receiver/dryer when ever you open the system.

After cleaning I always add a high side filter in the line between the compressor and the condenser to catch any beads that may be left behind. These filters a small and inexpensive and there is plenty of room on most vehicles to locate one easily. I also follow the lead of most appliance refrigeration techs and give the vacuum pump plenty of time to do it's job of removing all of the moisture from the system. Its not unusual for them to let the vacuum pump run overnight or even 24 hours or more! to make sure it has had time to boil all of the moisture out. I've seen automotive techs just pour the new oil onto the end of an a/c line and let it sit there while they finish up connecting the rest of the components then run the vacuum pump for 15 to 20 minutes before adding the freon! I can assure you that the oil has absorbed a lot of moisture and it takes a lot longer than that to boil it out! Again I like the refrigeration tech's method better. They reconnect the system, then evacuate it with the vacuum pump. Let it set for as long as they can but at least a couple of hours to check for any vacuum loss caused by leaks. Then they use an injector and let the oil get sucked into the system by the vacuum. That way the oil has minimum exposure to the atmosphere where it can absorb moisture. After that they start installing the new freon before the engine is started so they do not have to jump the pressure switch very often.

If you have access to recovery equipment that cam remove any contamination and all of the old dirty broken down oil from the freon then by all means use it and reuse the freon. If you have doubts about the equipment then you will have to decide if you would rather risk venting the gas into the atmosphere and having an agent from the EPA walking into your shop and catching you or suffocating from breathing contaminated air because you released a few little cans of freon or using new refrigerant in your rebuilt system.

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Opening up an AC system requires a number of special tools to really put it back together and have it work correctly. Here are the instructions for the Ford Escape

2.0L Engine

CAUTION

Before beginning this procedure, refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section. Only a MVAC-trained, EPA-certified, automotive technician should service the A/C system or its components.

WARNING

To prevent refrigerant system contamination, if you are installing a new A/C compressor because the A/C compressor has failed internally, you must use the following procedures:

NOTE

Installation of a new suction accumulator is not necessary when repairing the air conditioning system except when there is physical evidence of system contamination from a failed A/C compressor or damage to the suction accumulator.

NOTE

If an A/C Flusher is available, carry out the air conditioning (A/C) system flushing general procedure.

NOTE

NOTE: If the A/C Flusher is not available, carry out the refrigerant system filtering following air conditioning (A/C) component installation general procedure.

Install a new A/C evaporator core orifice.

Remove the drive belt.

Disconnect the A/C clutch field coil electrical connector.

WARNING

Plug all ports to prevent contamination from dirt or moisture.

Remove the A/C manifold and tube assembly bolt and disconnect the A/C manifold and tube assembly.

Remove the bolts and the A/C compressor.

To install:

Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting the following:

Tighten the A/C compressor bolt to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).

Tighten the A/C manifold and tube bolt to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).

Lubricate the new A/C compressor with the correct amount of PAG Compressor Oil YN-12-C or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSH-M1C231-B.

Lubricate the new A/C manifold O-ring seals with PAG Compressor Oil YN-12-C or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSH-M1C231-B.

Apply Pipe Sealant with Teflon® D8AZ-19554-A or equivalent meeting Ford specifications WSK-M2G350-A2 and ESR-M18P7-A to the threads of the A/C manifold and tube assembly bolt.

2.3L Engine

Except Hybrid

CAUTION

Before beginning this procedure, refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section. Only a MVAC-trained, EPA-certified, automotive technician should service the A/C system or its components.

WARNING

If installing a new A/C compressor due to an internal failure of the old unit, carry out the following procedures to remove contamination from the A/C system.

If A/C flushing equipment is available, carry out flushing of the air conditioning system prior to installing a new air conditioning compressor.

If A/C flushing equipment is not available, carry out filtering of the air conditioning system after a new air conditioning compressor has been installed.

Install a new evaporator core orifice.

Install a new suction accumulator.

NOTE

Installation of a new suction accumulator is not required when repairing the A/C system except when there is physical evidence of system contamination from a failed A/C compressor or damage to the suction accumulator.

Raise and safely support the vehicle.

Recover the A/C refrigerant.

Remove the accessory drive belt.

Disconnect the A/C compressor electrical connector.

Disconnect the suction accumulator to compressor line.

Remove the suction accumulator to compressor line bolt.

Disconnect the compressor to condenser discharge line.

Remove the compressor to condenser discharge line bolt.

Remove and discard the O-rings.

Remove the 3 bolts and the A/C compressor.

NOTE

New O-ring seals lubricated with clean mineral oil must be installed before connecting any A/C fitting which has been disconnected.

Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Note the following tightening specifications:

A/C compressor mounting bolts: 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)

Compressor-to-condenser discharge line bolt: (15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)

Suction accumulator-to-compressor line bolt: 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)

If not filtering the A/C system, lubricate the refrigerant system with the correct amount of clean PAG oil.

Evacuate, leak test, and charge the refrigerant system.

Hybrid

CAUTION

Before beginning this procedure, refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section. Only a MVAC-trained, EPA-certified, automotive technician should service the A/C system or its components.

WARNING

If installing a new A/C compressor due to an internal failure of the old unit, carry out the following procedures to remove contamination from the A/C system.

If A/C flushing equipment is available, carry out flushing of the air conditioning system prior to installing a new air conditioning compressor. F

If A/C flushing equipment is not available, carry out filtering of the air conditioning system after a new air conditioning compressor is installed.

Install a new evaporator core orifice.

Install a new passenger zone valve.

Install a new battery zone valve.

Install a new thermostatic expansion valve and filter.

Install a new suction accumulator.

Raise and safely support the vehicle.

Recover the refrigerant.

Remove the drive belt.

Remove the compressor manifold and tube assembly bolt and position the A/C manifold and tube assembly aside. Discard the O-rings.

Disconnect the A/C compressor electrical connector.

Remove the 4 A/C compressor mounting bolts and the A/C compressor.

NOTE

New O-ring seals, lubricated in clean mineral oil, must be installed before reconnecting any A/C fitting which has been disconnected.

Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Note the following tightening specifications:

A/C compressor mounting bolts: 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).

Compressor manifold and tube bolt: 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm)

If not filtering the A/C system, lubricate the refrigerant system with the correct amount of clean PAG oil.

Evacuate, leak test and charge the refrigerant system.

3.0L Engine

CAUTION

Before beginning this procedure, refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section. Only a MVAC-trained, EPA-certified, automotive technician should service the A/C system or its components.

WARNING

To prevent refrigerant system contamination, if you are installing a new A/C compressor because the A/C compressor has failed internally, you must use the following procedures:

NOTE

Installation of a new suction accumulator is not necessary when repairing the air conditioning system except when there is physical evidence of system contamination from a failed A/C compressor or damage to the suction accumulator.

NOTE

If an A/C Flusher is available, carry out the air conditioning (A/C) system flushing general procedure.

NOTE

If the A/C Flusher is not available, carry out the refrigerant system filtering following air conditioning (A/C) component installation general procedure.

Install a new A/C evaporator core orifice.

Remove the drive belt.

If equipped, disconnect the engine block heater electrical connector.

Disconnect the A/C clutch field coil electrical connector.

WARNING

Plug all ports to prevent contamination from dirt or moisture.

Remove the A/C manifold and tube assembly bolt from the top of the A/C compressor and disconnect the A/C manifold and tube assembly.

Remove the bolts and the A/C compressor.

To install, reverse the removal procedure. Tighten the A/C compressor to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm) and the A/C manifold and tube bolt to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).

Lubricate the new A/C compressor with the correct amount of PAG Compressor Oil YN-12-C or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSH-M1C231-B.

Lubricate the new A/C manifold O-ring seals with PAG Compressor Oil YN-12-C or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSH-M1C231-B.

Apply Pipe Sealant with Teflon® D8AZ-19554-A or equivalent meeting Ford specifications WSK-M2G350-A2 and ESR-M18P7-A to the threads of the A/C manifold and tube assembly bolt. From here. Hope this helps, good luck.

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2001 ford escape v6 3.0l the mount for the air compressor thats on the motor broke off can it be fixed

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