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The Samsung Chromebook XE303C12-A01US laptop features an 11.6" screen and a 16 GB SSD hard drive. This small notebook computer allows for easy access to the Internet and can run various web apps.

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Need help reconnecting trackpad ribbon cable to motherboard!

Hi. I replaced the battery on my 5-year old Chromebook. After it charged I had no cursor. I disconnected the trackpad and cleaned it with alcohol and replaced, replacing the ribbon cables, etc. Still no cursor. However, in the process of cleaning I disconnected ribbon cable port from the motherboard on the opposite end from the trackpad. I shouldn’t have done this. I thought it didn’t look like it was seated properly so I pulled up on it. Now I don’t know how to reconnect it. It doesn’t seem intuitive. Does it snap into place (doesn’t seem so)? Do I get it flush with the motherboard and push it forward toward the back of the computer? When I was playing around with it I noticed a tiny metal bracket or “arm” to the left of the place where the port should be seated. I inadvertently broke that off the board when I tried to bend it. I’m hoping that this can be fixed. The ribbon cable is securely clamped in the port, but the port is not connected to the motherboard. Also, still don’t know how I lost the cursor nor how to get it back. Thank you in advance for your great instructions and photos. I hope you can help me. I have the Samsung Chromebook 3. Thank you in advance!….elaine

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So the plastic port was ripped off the motherboard?

..... Uh ..... Unless you're good at soldering, and SMD reworking, there is no fix. Particularly not a simple one.

You (or someone handy with a soldering iron, and familiar with PCB modification) will need to inspect the port and ensure ALL of the pins are still in the port (that little metal arm is probably a pin that was ripped from the connector). If they are the next step is to inspect the PCB to see if the pads are still there, chances are they came off with the port and are probably still stuck to the pins. Next inspect the traces to the capacitors on the PCB. If they're not also ripped off you'll want to use an x-acto knife to scrape back the blue layer to expose the copper, then give them a little flux, and tin them with a layer of solder. You could also just go straight to the components down the traces from the pads.

Now, the fun part, supposing the pads are gone (otherwise just tin the pads and solder it back down with a quick touch of heat), if the pins are all still in place on the port, find a sacrificial USB cable, cut it open, and harvest the narrow gauge wires inside. Solder these tiny wires to the port, then super glue the port back were it was supposed to be. Now run the wires to where the pin traces are tinned or directly to the downstream components (the tiny SMD caps).

There is no handholding here, study the layout, take pictures (you'll probably need a macro lens, you need to see the traces and where they go), sketch out a map of what pins are connected to which component. You want to be so familiar with the layout BEFORE trying anything that you will naturally know exactly what attaches where, how you will move your arm, hold the wires (needle nose tweezers help, a lot), dont fight the board, make it sit where it is comfortable to work on it.

Also, ELECTRONICS DO NOT COME WITH EXTRA PARTS!!! Nor do they like being roughly handled. They are built to a price point and at best be worked on by technicians, at worst be tossed and replaced. If you're going to nose around inside them be careful, be mindful, take pictures, look around the board, don't get tunnel vision, and don't do anything until you know exactly what you're going to do, the dangers involved, how to mitigate them, and what you're going to do if it all goes wrong. Hoping for the best is good, but planning for the worst is better. People get into trouble ham handing something, sure they can see that needs to come off and such, but dont consider what happens when that stray wire ends up across a battery or power input, things spark, smoke, and they freeze. That's how buildings burn down. If you're not familiar with a task take the time to look it over, plan what you'll do for every step, and have contingencies for disaster modes. Everything I open that has a battery I know exactly what I'm going to do with it if it decides to go nuclear. It won't be pretty, I'll have to clean....everything....in my work area, there will be melted plastic, smoke, smells, and it'll look like a disaster area when all is said and done. But, I have a plan. I know what I need to do IF that happens. Eventually you'll get so used to thinking about mitigating issues, you won't have to spend time thinking about it beforehand and can just do a repair, it'll look like you just dive into it like every other repair person. But in reality we have glanced around the room, taken note of flammables, fire paths, metal containters, the length to the nearest sink, the nearest fire resistant surface where something could burn safely even if it does leave a scorch mark (better than lighting the whole room on fire. Between the two I'll take having to explain a smoldering hole over a towering inferno any day). Keep working at it. But cheap crappy items and take them to bits, things you won't miss. Build the second nature experience of electronics, and you'll be scraping traces and bodging down wires for all your friends in no time 😉

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Elaine Benjamin будет вечно благодарен.
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