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Введение

Use this guide to replace a broken display.

    • Before proceeding, power down your MacBook. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface, top-side down.

    • Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove ten screws securing the lower case, of the following lengths:

    • Two 9 mm screws

    • Eight 2.6 mm screws

    Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

    allison - Ответить

    Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

    bwgvanderveer - Ответить

    I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

    ola m - Ответить

    Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

    andrew - Ответить

    It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

    Larry Smith - Ответить

    tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

    Thank you

    ilyabuhov - Ответить

    Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

    anne uhlir - Ответить

    im looking for a Logic Board for a

    Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

    Any help is appreciated.

    Jamie Comstock - Ответить

    P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

    William Skinner - Ответить

    I had same experience (with MacBook Air 13-inch Mid-2012) … had to get P4, which worked swimmingly

    eric -

    Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

    Dennis Eaton - Ответить

    My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

    Pennny Beach - Ответить

    The supplied kit and instructions worked perfectly!

    Nikolay Andreev - Ответить

    Comments that the P5 pentalobe are too large are absolutely spot-on. There is no way the P5 pentalobe bit I have will work with the MacBook Air without destroying the screws. Hard target search for P4 pentalobe bit in progress…..

    joemoog - Ответить

    Bonjour j’aimerais changer mon SSD de 128 Go pour en mettre un de 512 Go. Je ne sais pas ce qu’il faut prendre car il faut qu’il soit compatible avec le macbook air A1466. J’aurais vu un Samsung Evo 970 500 Go mais si je ne me trompe pas, il faut un adaptateur.

    Merci pour votre aide.

    chicco33 - Ответить

    oui, vous aurez besoin d’un adaptateur, pour completez le changement.

    Dan -

    The tool kit should include tweezers for re-inserting the battery connector.

    Andre Clement - Ответить

    P5 pentalobe worked perfectly for me. Instructions were spot-on. Antenna connections were a bit fiddly to refit but got them in ok.

    michaelquinnell - Ответить

    Maybe the problem some are experiencing is that the designations are confusing (blame Apple rather than iFixit). the P2 is also known as PL1. The P5 is also known as PL4. The P6 is also known as PL5. So it is possible to mistake the P6 (PL5) for the P5 (PL4), meaning it (P6-PL5) will be too big, while the P5 (PL4) will be just right. Sort of a 3 Bears explanation, but it is very confusing.

    Thomas Lewis - Ответить

    To add to this. In searching for the P5 screwdriver to buy in UK, as far as I can tell, it is also known as

    Pentalobe 1.2(mm)

    also

    P4 = 0.8

    P6 = 1.5

    Just unscrewed the back case of MacBook Air 13” mid 2011, with no problems using Pentalobe 1.2

    nijafe -

    I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?

    Sean Love - Ответить

    Did mine today - but new battery wasnt charging. Went back in and noticed the battery connector cable was not quite 100% “seated. It was sticking out by less than a millimetre! - you need to give it quite a firm push in to get it seated properly. Otherwise - all ok .

    John Brennand - Ответить

    Just installed on a MacBookAir6,2 (13-inch, Early 2014).

    Was very easy.

    New iFixit battery looks great so far:

    Full Charge Capacity (mAh): 4922 -> 7333

    Jonathan Cross - Ответить

    can you tell me which size of screwdrivers you’ve used to crack it up, please? I have the same model and size,

    hawk_lpc -

    Screw P5 Pentalobe 1.2

    Mario Verlent - Ответить

    Install went flawlessly. Only challange was reattaching blue tooth antennas. Those sockets are so tiny.

    Joel Sebastian - Ответить

    Installation was a little challenging at first because the instructions on this site did not perfectly match my model (late 2013 to early 2015).

    Found this video on YouTube which described the procedure perfectly https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lue6lVWh...

    Also the Ifixit kit I received was well put together with everything I needed and more. The calibration went perfectly and I am very pleased. Will buy again!!

    Donald Niamath - Ответить

    Gently pulled out connector of old battery, then pressed and held the power switch for 1 minute. Unscrewed and removed the old battery. Pressed and held power switch for 1 minute again. I know from previous work that this helps drain charge from spontaneous recharging as the dielectric recovers. Gently “fine tuned” leads from new battery to connector till connector stuck out at right angle to the edge of battery. Held the battery by the edges and let the connector slide into the socket. Set the battery down and put the screws in all the way. Then checked that the connector was completely seated before tightening the screws. The laptop come on immediately and showed 98% charge and registered normal (checked in “About this Mac”. Very happy to this point. Now for calibration.

    Amir Zaidi - Ответить

    Thank you very much for the guilde. My MBA2011 had reborn !

    Billy Wong - Ответить

    Allow for electrostatics, otherwise you may cook components on the logicboard /motherboard (like I did with one of these!)

    See great advice: Electrostatic Discharge

    Fletcher Cole - Ответить

    … und wenn du eines von diesen wirklich kleinen Schräubchen vermisst: bevor du den Boden aufkehrst oder mit einem starken Magneten absuchst, schau mal am seitlichen (magnetischen) Ladekabelanschluss nach … ?

    ... and if you miss one of these really small screws: before you sweep the floor or search it with a strong magnet, take a look at the (magnetic) charging cable connection on the side … ?

    Blatt - Ответить

  1. Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.
    • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

    • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

    There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

    Jeannie Crowley - Ответить

    To add - the slim 1cm tab “nub” is on the centre of the back cover & fits into a hole in the battery frame. I ran my fingers around the whole of the cover to eventually here it click out.

    nijafe -

    When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

    Gabriel - Ответить

    So this is a legit back cover for MacBook Air?

    ASHANTI SMITH - Ответить

    What about disconnecting the battery?

    Luke Grimes - Ответить

    I bought the part and tools from iFixit and followed the directions. The mechanical part went smoothly - maybe 10 minutes to disassemble/replace/reassemble.

    Getting Catalina (the current MacOS) to install was not working until I used Cmd-Opt-R (as noted in the OWC paper sheet that came in the box) which brought up the proper installer - I believe from a pre-prepared bootable SD card but it’s hard to say. From there the install succeeded taking ~1.5 hours.

    Beware that (a) the install requires a working internet connection for verification and updates, and (b) the system must have been running at least macOs 10.13 (High Sierra) before the install in order to have an EFI BIOS that recognizes the SSD.

    Lance Berc - Ответить

    As noted by others, be a bit careful removing the lower case. There is an oblong black plastic locator very near the center of the lower case. Unless you gently pry the bottom cover pretty much straight up, you will break the ends off of the locater.

    BobY - Ответить

  2. As a precaution against accidental discharge or shock, disconnect the battery connector from the logic board. Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.
    • As a precaution against accidental discharge or shock, disconnect the battery connector from the logic board.

    • Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.

    • Be sure to pull the connector horizontally toward the battery, and not straight up from the Air, or you may damage the socket on the logic board.

    The clear plastic tab is missing on mine. Whoever worked on my laptop before me seems to have ripped it off. Now what?

    mjmorawski - Ответить

    My plastic tab pulled off the connector. I worked the connection apart using two spurgers, slowly backing it out side to side.

    Ric Thistlethwaite - Ответить

    I don’t see my socket on logic board, how can I fix it

    QUYNH PHAM - Ответить

  3. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector upward out of its socket on the I/O board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector upward out of its socket on the I/O board.

    Be really careful when reconnecting the I/O board cable connector. The deep connector has a tendency to bend the pins with very little force applied. If this is the case, check to see if the gold pins are bent down, you may only see one row of gold pins vertically, or none.

    They can be lifted with a flat head screwdriver bit. Gently slide the bit under the pins, this may need a small amount of pressure depending on how far they are bent down. Lever the pins back to the vertical position.

    I found attempting to insert this connector was easier while holding the MacBook on a slight angle to see down the pins as I aligned the connector.

    Another way to tell if the I/O connector cable is in place correctly is to run an Apple Hardware Test. Hold down the letter D while booting the mac and follow the prompts. If no issues found, you're all good.

    A common error for a misconnected I/O Connector is 4SNS/1/C0000008:TS0P--124. This means the system cannot read the palm temperature sensor. Fix the cable and you're good

    Ben - Ответить

    Hi, Can the 13” Logicboard of 2012/2013/2014 or 2015 be compatible in the 2011 model?.

    verma1986 - Ответить

    This is ridiculous.

    From this point, skip ahead to step 18. There is no need to perform steps five through 17.

    AnnoniMoose - Ответить

  4. Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the top of the fan.
    • Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the top of the fan.

  5. The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it. While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the tip of a spudger to pry upward on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.
    • The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it.

    • While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the tip of a spudger to pry upward on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.

    • Remove the I/O board cable.

    This step can be skipped, not required for removing the fan.

    yurkennis - Ответить

    Agreed, there is no need to remove this cable.

    David Robillard - Ответить

  6. Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    It is not necessary to remove the fan cable.

    ezequielaceto - Ответить

    It's certainly necessary to remove the fan cable, as you won't be able to remove the fan in Step 10 if you don't!

    Goth70 Fuzed - Ответить

    If you break the ZIF socket, it could be a bad day.... It happened to me. Not one to throw in the towel, I fashioned a hold-down with a length of paperclip held in place by the nearby screw. So far, it is working like a charm. Hopefully, it continues to work and this helps some other poor soul.

    Lester Newsom - Ответить

    I also haven't removed the fan cable. No need for this step IMHO. Just let the fan on the side instead of completely remove it.

    David Robillard - Ответить

    Trouble putting the cable back in the ZIF socket?

    Get some electrical tape and cut it down the the width of the ribbon cable fold over one end to create a pull tab. Now place the tape onto the ribbon to give yourself something to pull either in or out as needed. Then you can peel off the tape.

    Don't forget the unlatch the connector first!

    Source: Re-connecting fan ribbon cable

    Adam Banko - Ответить

    The hardest part is to put the fan cable back in the ZIF socket.

    (Why do people say you don’t have to unplug the cable? that makes no sense)

    Digital Blended - Ответить

    after putting the cable back in the fan is very loud, can someone help?

    Ramon majem - Ответить

    Be very careful when locking the ZIF connector during reassembling. This was my first time seeing a ZIF connector, the retaining flap plastic bounced when I was reassembling the I/O board ( I didn’t pushed so hard though) and a struggled nearly 1 hour to reassemble it. Same connector, be careful. It was a nightmare, thank god it didn’t broke!

    Berkin Birol - Ответить

  7. Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.
    • Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.

    Note how the “ears” of the gasket are routed

    davecortesi - Ответить

    Where can I purchase a replacement gasket? It’s missing after the repair place opened my computer

    Erin Kaspar-Frett - Ответить

    Should I put some adhesive back when reasembling?

    Marco - Ответить

  8. Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:
    • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:

    • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw with a short head

    When reinstalling, start all three screws before tightening down. There’s some play in these holes, and you will have trouble lining them up if you tighten one down first.

    Curtis Kline - Ответить

    I just replaced the the i/o board and it went fine, but I think I broke the screw holder on the top left side of the fan, and now can get the screw out - the computer still runs - i was wonder can I get a way with that one screw not holding it down?

    ilarkin1 - Ответить

  9. Lift the fan out of the upper case and carefully pull the fan ribbon cable out of its socket as you remove it from the Air.
    • Lift the fan out of the upper case and carefully pull the fan ribbon cable out of its socket as you remove it from the Air.

    Would like more detail about removing the fan cable. Looks like it just pulls out to the right. I thought I ripped it off.

    kennyavis81 - Ответить

    On re-installation of fan cable cable no tool required - just wiggle it in from from side/above (side force aided by bend of cable)

    Super easy - my first computer repair..hope all is well

    paul deacon - Ответить

    The ribbon connector held in the socket by a tiny square on top, which enters a square hole in the top of the socket. An xacto blade used to pry the top of the connector gently up will help release the connector.

    peteragries - Ответить

    This helped me no end, I agree with the people above that it's worth explaining how the ribbon cable is held in and that

    it's simple to remove and reinstall. Thank you for a brilliant guide.

    leesparey - Ответить

    Year, from the top, the ribbon appears to be just the plastic strip. Copper connectors are on the bottom but at first glance it looks like I pulled the connector off the ribbon. Mine pulled straight out away from the connector, no upward angle needed or desired.

    Allen - Ответить

    Question: Is the ribbon connector a part of the fan, so that the new fan has its own ribbon connector? Apologies if this sounds trivial, but I could not tell from the wording/picture.

    jerry bennett - Ответить

  10. Disconnect the I/O board by pulling the power cable away from its socket on the logic board.
    • Disconnect the I/O board by pulling the power cable away from its socket on the logic board.

    • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the right edge of the Air.

  11. Pull the camera cable parallel to the face of the I/O board toward the corner of the Air to disconnect it from its socket, using the tip of a spudger to help push the connector out of its socket.
    • Pull the camera cable parallel to the face of the I/O board toward the corner of the Air to disconnect it from its socket, using the tip of a spudger to help push the connector out of its socket.

    • Do not lift upward on this cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.

    Mine was very reluctant... couldn't get any purchase with a spudger, had to use flat tweezers to get enough grip on the cable. Exerted slowly increasing pull, but when it came out, it broke loose suddenly.

    Allen - Ответить

    My Macbook Air (2013) didn't have this cable.

    Phillip Remaker - Ответить

    Mine too, only a slot where a cable was passing,

    Gianni Borghesan -

  12. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board. Pry up from beneath the wires.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.

    • Pry up from beneath the wires.

    • De-route the left speaker cable from its retainer on the I/O board.

    On re-assembly, I haven't gotten the speaker or microphone to work. Must have broken the connection, but it looks fine. Ran the hardware diagnostic (holding down "D" at start up) and got the following error code - 4MOT/4/40000002:Exhaust-0

    Anyone know what this means.

    Daniel Thomas - Ответить

    I recommend for the two speakers & mic connectors place thumb nail on top while prying up so you can gauge the upwards pressure better.

    also generally before trying anything scary double click the picture & zoom in so you can see better what you’re dealing with. Or even get your phone magnifier to zoom in on to your tricky parts.

    nijafe - Ответить

  13. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the microphone cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the microphone cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.

    • Pry up from beneath the wires.

    Be very careful: it is quite easy to accidentally pry the whole cable connector from the I/O board.

    Dallas Guy - Ответить

    What do you do if this happens? Buy a whole new I/O board?

    adamwitz -

    I agree, I found this to be the only critical step of the entire disassembly procedure: I snapped the microphone connector socket off the board despite applying a relatively gentle pull on the cables. Fortunately I did this on a dead MBair from which I wanted to get the display, but now I'm afraid of doing the same damage while installing the display on the target MBair!

    Any tricks/tips would be most welcome.

    Lorenzo

    Lorenzo Cangiano - Ответить

    Following up on my previous post I'd like to share how I eventually circumvented the risk of snapping the microphone connector socket on the I/O board. Instead of attempting to disconnect the mic (as suggested in this guide, step 14), I did the following: a. remove the battery, b. detach the right speaker, c. detach the microphone from the outer case (for steps b and c I followed the iFixit guide on how to replace a MacbookAir microphone). The advantage is that the microphone can now remain safely connected to the I/O board. Of course when reassembling the mac one has to reverse these extra steps (the microphone can be easily reattached to the case as it has a sticky side). I would strongly advise iFixit to revise this guide accordingly!

    Lorenzo Cangiano -

    I don't think this step is necessary if you aren't seeking to fully remove the I/O board - if you are seeking only to remove the heatsink, you can skip this step, leave this delicate cable attached, then in the next couple steps you'll end up "flipping" the board out of the way, while leaving this cable connected.

    coopermarcus - Ответить

    Maybe I just lucked out but removing the mic cable was about the same effort as the left speaker cable. I wasn't ready to try Lorenzo's workaround above without a photo guide, so took my chances. Your mileage may vary.

    Allen - Ответить

    I find it very helpful that you give directions on where to pry, and how to address each connection. I’m always hesitant for fear of snapping something off, so I appreciate this detail. Thanks.

    Adam Goldstein - Ответить

    I recommend for the two speakers & mic connectors place thumb nail on top while prying up so you can gauge the upwards pressure better.

    nijafe - Ответить

  14. Remove the single 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.
    • Remove the single 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.

    The screw was stripped and I couldn’t remove it, but it didn’t matter, I could complete removal of the logic board without removing the I/O board. I think the steps involved with disconnecting the I/O board are redundant.

    Nigel Anderson - Ответить

  15. Carefully lift the I/O board from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.
    • Carefully lift the I/O board from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

    When following these instructions in reverse, and reinstalling the I/O board, be sure to carefully check and adjust the alignment of the ports on the board with the holes in the case - it is especially obvious if the headphone port is mis-aligned with the case.

    coopermarcus - Ответить

    Also on reassembly, make sure the speaker and microphone cables are visible before securing the i/o board!

    davecortesi - Ответить

  16. Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:
    • Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:

    • Three 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws

    • Two 2.4 mm T5 Torx screws

    Be careful when screwing in again not to overtighten, the plastic of the battery breaks easily with tightening.

    Mike Dacre - Ответить

  17. When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the four exposed lithium polymer cells.
    • When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the four exposed lithium polymer cells.

    • Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

  18. Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
    • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket toward the front edge of the Air.

    Disaster strikes. I pulled away the socket itself (just like it says not to). Is there any possibility to re-connect it, or did I just ruin the whole logic board?

    Nigel Anderson - Ответить

    I lost the retaining flap so I don’t know if it can stay in place without the retaining flap

    SK Alias - Ответить

  19. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Use your spudger to help pull the cable out of its socket.

  20. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Pry up from beneath the cables.

    To snap back in, place speaker cable connector directly on top of socket and press down with your finger or tool.

    anonymous 6745 - Ответить

    This has to be done very gently. I only applied a mild lift and the socket broke off from the board. I had to say good-bye to the right speaker. :-(

    Kuro Kurosaka - Ответить

    Read my comment about using tweezers for the left speaker cable connector. But for some reason, the right connector was a little more tight and took more effort than the left speaker cable connector.

    Mark Kilpatrick - Ответить

  21. Gently push the tip of a spudger under the black plastic flap stuck to the display data cable lock to make the lock pop upward and away from the socket. While holding the lock away from the socket, use the tip of a spudger and your fingers to gently remove the display data cable from its socket. Do not pull upward on the display data cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.
    • Gently push the tip of a spudger under the black plastic flap stuck to the display data cable lock to make the lock pop upward and away from the socket.

    • While holding the lock away from the socket, use the tip of a spudger and your fingers to gently remove the display data cable from its socket.

    • Do not pull upward on the display data cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.

    Regarding the second photo on step 22, I believe the placement of the spudger is incorrect. If the second photo's purpose is to demonstrate the placement of the spudger described in the second bullet--"...use the tip of a spudger and your fingers to gently remove the display data cable..."-- then such placement could lead to damaging the connector. View this annotated screenshot to see what I'm trying to convey: https://www.evernote.com/shard/s4/sh/1f5....

    Christopher Fernandes - Ответить

    I agree, I used tweezers to pull it gently and it worked beautifully

    Gian Carlo -

    Agree. Use tweezers.

    sdcsoup -

    You should place the tip of the spudger on top of the connector and push out. At first I had the tip of the spudger on the bottom and tried to push up and that was incorrect.

    Mark Kilpatrick - Ответить

  22. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna cable connectors up and off their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna cable connectors up and off their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna cable connectors up and off their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

    When reconnecting, how will I know which cable connects to the connectors?

    Ringo CoC - Ответить

    Fits oneway only. See length of the cable connectors

    yuroen - Ответить

    I put a small piece of red tape on the right wire to identify.

    kcunningham - Ответить

  23. Gently de-route the antenna cables from the slot cut into the logic board.
    • Gently de-route the antenna cables from the slot cut into the logic board.

  24. Remove the single 2.85 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.
    • Remove the single 2.85 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

  25. To avoid damaging its socket, do not lift the end of the SSD excessively. Pull the drive straight out of its socket and remove it from the logic board.
    • To avoid damaging its socket, do not lift the end of the SSD excessively.

    • Pull the drive straight out of its socket and remove it from the logic board.

    • When reinstalling the SSD, be sure it is properly seated before reinstalling its retaining screw.

    Warning: there may be adhesive keeping the SSD in place. i got 1 with, and 1 without, both slightly different models (but still the same model name, A1466 )

    divinity76 - Ответить

  26. Remove the six 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.
    • Remove the six 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.

    Please Please Please remember to re-attach your antenna cables if you are replacing the upper case with a new or refurbished one. They have a way of slipping under the logic board.

    Timothy Button - Ответить

    These screws are easily stripped. If you accidentally push too hard, you will strip the screw when re-attaching. If that happens, get a pair of needle nose pliers and gently work the screw out taking care not to damage the board.

    Timothy Button - Ответить

    My screws were 4.xx mm

    Gabe - Ответить

    These screws are actually 3.6 mm T5 Torx. Please fix :)

    Doc Halstater - Ответить

    I’ll second this observation.

    sjosefw -

    When putting the logic board back, make sure the speaker wire isn't trapped under it

    Shiv Sikand - Ответить

    I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?

    Sean Love - Ответить

  27. Remove the inner two 4.9 mm T8 Torx screws securing the antenna cable retainer and left clutch hinge to the upper case.
    • Remove the inner two 4.9 mm T8 Torx screws securing the antenna cable retainer and left clutch hinge to the upper case.

    These are T9-sized torx screws, not T8.

    Hanii Puppy - Ответить

    This is good to know. I think I need to order a screwdriver set - all I have is the pentalobe and one other that came with my SSD replacement kit.

    forestsprite -

    I also had T9 screws on my device.

    I found it helpful to loosen the 3rd screw of the hinge already a TINY bit. The screws are quite tight so it´s easier to loosen them while the case is lying flat on the surface. This procedure comes in handy in Step 34 where you have to hold the case perpendicular with one hand, while unscrewing this screw with the other hand.

    wolfgang07 - Ответить

    Mine were T8 screws, but I was able to use a T9 torx with pressure and that worked.

    kcunningham - Ответить

    fyi, mine were T8

    jmull - Ответить

    My hinge screws were T9, and fit very snugly. If your screwdrivers are not a precision set, such that the T9 is too tight, you can use T8, but it won’t be good for the screw heads.

    Josh - Ответить

    Mine were T8 and my T8 bit worked fine.

    Mark Kilpatrick - Ответить

  28. Push the antenna cable retainer away slightly and remove the 3 mm T5 Torx screw securing the end of the heat sink to the upper case.
    • Push the antenna cable retainer away slightly and remove the 3 mm T5 Torx screw securing the end of the heat sink to the upper case.

    "remove the 3 mm T5 Torx screw securing the end of the heat sink to the upper case" -- an optional step when detaching components from upper case for cleaning, eg after a liquid spilled to keyboard.

    yurkennis - Ответить

    When I was re-assembling, the screw hole of the heat sink didn’t align. I applied a mild force then the edge of the heat sink broke off from the rest, losing the contact to the case. I am hoping the Air would work for a while during the test run (if it ever works) but I would buy a replacement heat sink for regular use.

    Kuro Kurosaka - Ответить

  29. Carefully remove the logic board assembly from the upper case, minding any cables that may get caught.
    • Carefully remove the logic board assembly from the upper case, minding any cables that may get caught.

    • Hold the antenna cables out of the way as you lift the heat sink end of the logic board out of the upper case.

    On reassembly, as you seat the board in place, make sure the keyboard backlight cable is not trapped under it.

    davecortesi - Ответить

  30. Gently de-route the antenna cables out of the channel cut into the upper case.
    • Gently de-route the antenna cables out of the channel cut into the upper case.

  31. Remove the inner two 4.9 mm T8 Torx screws securing the right display hinge to the upper case.
    • Remove the inner two 4.9 mm T8 Torx screws securing the right display hinge to the upper case.

    • We intentionally have you leave the third screw in to aid in future steps.

    Again, these are T9 screws, not T8.

    Hanii Puppy - Ответить

    Dear all,

    on my Air I dropped water and now the display looks without backlight... I can type with no issue, as well the backlight of the keyboard is working fine, audio too but the display doesn't show the light also if boosted at top. What's happened?

    Thanks,

    sev7en - Ответить

    I also had T9 screws on my device.

    Like in Step28 I found it helpful to loosen the 3rd screw of the hinge already a TINY bit. Comes in handy in Step 33 where you have to hold the case perpendicular with one hand, while unscrewing this screw with the other hand.

    wolfgang07 - Ответить

    Does anyone know if it will work without the display assembly all together? I just want to remove it and plug into an external monitor.

    Andrew White - Ответить

    I recommend to loosen outward screws at this step, so it is easier to completely unscrew them on the next step.

    yurkennis - Ответить

    My tip is to open the case so the screen is 90º to the base and then lay the MBA down with the keyboard on the work surface with the screen hanging down the front of your work bench. This makes it much easier to work with and reassembly is much easier.

    If you follow this tip, go ahead and take all the remaining four hinge screws out now. You can now easily lift off the lid and set it aside. Now skip to step 36.

    Reassembly Hint: Use this method to get all 4 screws started and before you do the final tighten, back them off ¼ turn, close up the clamshell and lay it on your work bench screen side down Now make sure the top does not overhang the bottom and are aligned by running your fingers around the perimeter. When you are happy with the alignment, tighten all four screws.

    Hope that helps.

    Josh - Ответить

    I agree with Josh : makes it very easy to remove~replace the screen lid using one hand to stop it falling to the floor and the other to remove the last 2 screws and then to replace those 2 screws when re-assembling.

    Andrew Gordon - Ответить

  32. Open the display until it is perpendicular to the upper case and place it on a table as shown.
    • Open the display until it is perpendicular to the upper case and place it on a table as shown.

    • While holding the Air steady, remove the remaining 4.9 mm T8 Torx screw from the lower display bracket.

    During reassembly, once the two screws are in the left and right hinges, close the laptop and flip it over so that the display is down on the table. Run your fingers along the edge of the laptop where the display meets the lower assembly. If it is not flush, loosen the two screws in the hinges slightly and adjust, then retighten.

    Ethan Cross - Ответить

  33. Before removing the last display screw, be sure to hold the display and upper case steady with your other hand. Failure to do so may allow the components to fall onto the table, causing potentially expensive damage.
    • Before removing the last display screw, be sure to hold the display and upper case steady with your other hand. Failure to do so may allow the components to fall onto the table, causing potentially expensive damage.

    • Remove the last 4.9 mm T8 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

  34. Push the upper case slightly toward the display assembly, then rotate it away from the front of the display assembly.
    • Push the upper case slightly toward the display assembly, then rotate it away from the front of the display assembly.

    • Once the two display hinges have cleared the upper case, remove the display and set it aside.

    Reassembly Hint: My tip is to lay bottom case with the keyboard on the work surface with the rear edge hanging over the front of your work bench. Approach with the screen side of the lid facing the workbench and 90º to it. Lower the screen hinges into place. This makes it much easier to work with and reassemble.

    *

    Use this method to get all 4 screws started and before you do the final tighten, back them off ¼ turn, close up the clamshell and lay it on your work bench screen side down Now make sure the top does not overhang the bottom and are aligned by running your fingers around the perimeter. When you are happy with the alignment, tighten all four screws.

    Hope that helps.

    Josh - Ответить

    I agree with Josh : makes it very easy to remove~replace the screen lid using one hand to stop it falling to the floor and the other to remove the last 2 screws or to replace those 2 screws

    Andrew Gordon - Ответить

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Комментариев: 23

Sure would be nice if you could either add to the guide or have a new guide that continued the process and actually disassembled the screen assembly. It is no more difficult to take apart the display than it is to take apart an iPad.

jonlobb86 - Ответить

Thanks a ton for this guide! I got my MBAir back in working order in about an hour. The only weird thing I noticed was my MBAir battery unexpectedly registering at 0% upon re-seating. But it's charging so I suppose all's well that ends well.

jasontomczak - Ответить

This guide is way more than needed for the display replacement. Until it gets edited down, all you need to do is steps 1-3, 12, 22-24, 28, 31-35 from the "upper case replacement" guide (which is apparently what this guide is right now, instead of a display replacement guide as it is labeled).

brentp - Ответить

This is a really great comment! Thanks, you've saved me lots of time!

Charles -

Thank you! Valuable comment!

pzhivulin -

That’s not entirely correct. If you skip the motherboard lifting steps, you’ll have to cut the plastic strips that keep the AirPort/BT cables in place, before you can deroute them (at least in my Mid-2011 Air). To deroute the cables you’ll also have to remove at least one motherboard screw, in order to slightly lift the area of the MoBo under which the AP/BT cables run.

Emanuele Fiorillo -

I fully agree!

Ramin Javid Milani -

I know I’m late to the party but just did this as brentp described and everything was good. A lot less steps and it’s working perfectly.

Tim Patterson -

I removed the display assembly even without removing the fan or the Logic Board. I don't see why it's necessary =)

Marhowl - Ответить

I just replaced my display. While some may complain about the details, I found it extremely helpful. It took my novice hands much longer than advertised, but I suspect my next time around, I will be able to do this in half the time. Thank you iFixit!!

macman2 - Ответить

The screw mat is missing some screws: the battery screws are not correctly identified on it. Other than that, excellent guide with very clear instructions and warnings. The whole process of replacing the display assembly took about 45 minutes, working carefully.

panaman - Ответить

It's not needed to remove any components besides disconnecting the battery and cables that connect to this screen. There are way too many unneeded steps here. Look at this guy replace the assembly: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EB3QGsp5...

Mike - Ответить

Hi! Thanks for the guide.

I was wondering if I can use the monitor of the MacBook Air 13" Mid 2012 to replace the monitor of my MacBook Air 13" Mid 2011.

Many thanks in advance.

Tai

k4noooooooooo - Ответить

2010-2012 compatible. 2013-present cables too long although screen will work.

RJ Smith -

very clean, sexy handzz :)

Aleksander - Ответить

This is the right guide for LCD replacement: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O3lhuy3s...

pzhivulin - Ответить

I have just done this, and all you need to do is take the display off, not remove the logic board. I did remove the fan for access, but I am not even sure that you need to do that. Very easy and straight toward job, only fiddly bit is reconnecting the two antennae connectors, but this is no different with the logic board in or out

chris haines - Ответить

I have a broken screen. Should I expect just to pay for a screen replacement and not the display assembly to get the screen happy?

Please confirm if I could use a screen from a mid-2012 MacBook Air to use on my mid-2011 MacBook Air. Thank you.

downdog89 - Ответить

we repair mac book in pune, india. DNA Computers..http://www.dnacomputers.in

DNA Computers - Ответить

Thanks for the write up. It was perfect to help change the display for 2011 13 inch macbook air

couple of connectors for antenna was bit tedious to reconnect. Rest isnt that difficult

g pb - Ответить

Great instructions. Used the iFixit Classic Pro Tech Toolkit, which has all the necessary tools (and then some). Thank you!

wednai - Ответить

I don’t need to replace my display, but I would like to adjust / tighten its hinge– it got rather lose and shaky over the years. Is this possible without disassembling it all? Anybody got experience?

Marco Binder - Ответить

Just finished this, forward and backward, display assembly works fine. Awesome guide, and very helpful. I ‘skipped’ one of the steps mentioning a screw under or near the fan, but ended up just removing it anyway to stay ‘on track’ with the guide (coming backward to finish). I’ve done many fixes with ifixit guides, and they’ve been awesome, helpful, super straightforward! Done in an hour. Probably could’ve done faster but The Office is playing.

Aaron Dimatulac - Ответить

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