The heat sink helps keep the processor cool and happy.

  1. Use a coin or spudger to rotate the battery-locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.
    • Use a coin or spudger to rotate the battery-locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.

  2. Lift the battery out of the computer.
    • Lift the battery out of the computer.

    • Unscrew the three evenly-spaced Phillips screws from along the rear wall of the battery compartment.

    • The screws are captive to the metal memory cover so you cannot lose them.

    • Rotate the L-shaped memory cover so it clears the battery compartment opening and lift it up and out of the computer.

    • Remove the following 3 screws:

      • One 11 mm Phillips#00 in the middle of the case. (Head: 5mm dia. x .75mm thick)

      • Two 14.5 mm Phillips #00 (Head: 5mm dia. x .75mm thick)

    • If the screws stick in the case, you can use a magnetized screwdriver to draw them out.

    • The shorter of the three screws goes in the middle.

    • Remove the following 3 screws from the rear wall of the battery compartment:

      • One 3 mm Phillips #0. (Head: 2.75 mm. dia.)

      • Two 4 mm Phillips #0 on the either side. (Head: 2.75mm dia.)

    • Take extra caution with these screws as they can strip easily.

    • Remove the two Phillips screws from either side of the right wall of the battery compartment (not the ones closest to the battery connector).

      • Two 6.25 mm Phillips #000. (Head: 4 mm. dia. x .5mm thick)

    • Remove the four indicated Phillips screws from the front wall of the battery compartment. When working from the left, remove the 2nd, 4th, 7th and 9th screw.

      • Four 3.25 mm Phillips #000. (Head: 4 mm. dia. x 4mm thick)

    • Remove the following 4 screws from the back of the computer:

    • The longer screws go on the inside, shorter screws on the outside.

      • Two 11 mm Phillips #00, with Shank (2.2mm dia. x 2 mm len.) (Head: 3.2 mm. dia. x .5mm thick)

      • Two 7.25 mm Phillips #00, with Shank (2mm dia. x 3.75 mm len.) (Head: 3.2 mm. dia. x .5mm thick)

    • Remove the two Phillips screws from the optical drive side of the computer.

      • Two 5.2 mm Phillips #00, with Shank (2.3mm dia. x 3.5 mm len.) (Head: 3.2 mm. dia. x .5mm thick)

    • It is not necessary to remove the similar screws on the other side of the computer.

    • There's a trackpad and keyboard ribbon connecting the upper case to the logic board, so don't pull the upper case off entirely just yet.

    • Starting near the display and working around to the front of the computer, pry up on the upper case. A plastic opening tool or a medium hard guitar pick may help you to do this.

    • The upper case is likely to stick at the connection above the optical drive. If this is the case, first free all other sides, then proceed to pull upward on the upper case from either side of the optical drive opening.

    • If you stand the base on end to get a better look you may displace the total of 4 grey plastic clips that hold the keyboard in place. Don't panic. They slide into slots at the top right-most edge near the CD drive.

    • While holding up the upper case, pull up the black tab of the silver cable away from its connector.

    • If there is no black tab, you can also use a spudger to gently pry the connector from its housing. This connector is tall, so be sure to pry straight up.

    • If you happen to break your upper case cable when removing the upper case, we stock the cable individually and we have a guide that makes replacing it easy.

    • While you have the upper case removed, you may want to take the opportunity to remove dust, hair, etc. It's best to use a can of compressed air, though if you use a brush, make sure that its bristles are made of a material (usually animal hair) that doesn't generate static electricity, which can destroy electronics.

    • Upon reassembly, there are 4 grey plastic clips on the optical drive side of the keyboard (refer to second picture). They must be installed in their slots for the keyboard to snap in properly.

    • To make the reassamble process easier, it's better to pull out the clips first by pulling it straight up gently. Be careful not to put too much strength because it will break.

    • Carefully peel up the black felt tape between the heat sink and fan.

    • Peel up the small black rubber cover from the right side of the heat sink.

    • Use a spudger to disconnect the two newly-revealed temperature sensor connectors from the logic board.

    • If you have a MacBook Core 2 Duo Santa Rosa/Penryn, there is only one temperature sensor.

    • Remove the four Phillips screws securing the heat sink to the lower case.

    • Be sure to secure the ground loop for the speaker cable beneath the screw in the lower right corner when replacing the heat sink.

    • If you have a MacBook Core 2 Duo Santa Rosa/Penryn, the two Philips screws on the right are in a different location.

    • Lift the heat sink out of the computer, making sure the black tape doesn't catch on the heat sink.

    • If you need to mount the heat sink back into the laptop, we have a thermal paste guide that makes replacing the thermal compound easy.


To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

98 участников успешно повторили данное руководство.


Участник с: 24.09.2009

1 Репутация

Автор 623 руководств

Комментариев: 6

what if the black felt tape is dissolve itself in step 13? do i have to renew it or doesnt metter? it just crumbled.

laurids wiemer - Ответить


I love these guides, they have helped me to replace the airport card, replace the keyboard cable and modify the optibay to install a 2nd drive.

The last 2 jobs I have completed were to remove the cooling fan to clean it and the exit of the heat sink and later to remove the heat sink to renew the thermal paste conducting material.

My suggestions would be if you are going to remove the heat sink take out the cooling fan first. This is just because the removal of the heat sink is much easier if the fan is out and it's really not too much more work and when you re-assemble make sure the black tape is really sticking down, if it's not the full cooling will be lost and funnily enough the noise of the fan increases.

Thanks ifixit team, you have been life savers.


Martin Batho - Ответить

I used the guide and had no problems getting to the point of replacing the heatsink. I see how the rear heat sensor (250) clips onto the logic board but for the life of me, I cannot see how the longer sensor attaches. I see two contacts but other than the felt thing, there is no way to attach. . . What did I do wrong. . . HELP. Milt King

Milton King - Ответить

To refit the temperature sensors, ensure the cables are rooted under the clips of the heatsink. The connectors then just push down on to the motherboard pins.

Antony Gibson - Ответить

Question about part compatibility: the guide doesn’t show part number IF186-091-1.

Does this heatsink have sensors that need to be plugged in on the motherboard?

cubytus - Ответить

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