Введение
Replace the LCD screen without the inverter, cables, or bezels.
Инструменты
Video Overview
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Use a coin or spudger to rotate the battery-locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.
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Unscrew the three evenly-spaced Phillips screws from along the rear wall of the battery compartment.
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Rotate the L-shaped memory cover so it clears the battery compartment opening and lift it up and out of the computer.
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Remove the following 3 screws:
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One 11 mm Phillips#00 in the middle of the case. (Head: 5mm dia. x .75mm thick)
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Two 14.5 mm Phillips #00 (Head: 5mm dia. x .75mm thick)
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Remove the following 3 screws from the rear wall of the battery compartment:
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One 3 mm Phillips #0. (Head: 2.75 mm. dia.)
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Two 4 mm Phillips #0 on the either side. (Head: 2.75mm dia.)
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Remove the two Phillips screws from either side of the right wall of the battery compartment (not the ones closest to the battery connector).
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Two 6.25 mm Phillips #000. (Head: 4 mm. dia. x .5mm thick)
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Remove the four indicated Phillips screws from the front wall of the battery compartment. When working from the left, remove the 2nd, 4th, 7th and 9th screw.
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Four 3.25 mm Phillips #000. (Head: 4 mm. dia. x 4mm thick)
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Remove the following 4 screws from the back of the computer:
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The longer screws go on the inside, shorter screws on the outside.
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Two 11 mm Phillips #00, with Shank (2.2mm dia. x 2 mm len.) (Head: 3.2 mm. dia. x .5mm thick)
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Two 7.25 mm Phillips #00, with Shank (2mm dia. x 3.75 mm len.) (Head: 3.2 mm. dia. x .5mm thick)
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Remove the two Phillips screws from the optical drive side of the computer.
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Two 5.2 mm Phillips #00, with Shank (2.3mm dia. x 3.5 mm len.) (Head: 3.2 mm. dia. x .5mm thick)
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Starting near the display and working around to the front of the computer, pry up on the upper case. A plastic opening tool or a medium hard guitar pick may help you to do this.
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While holding up the upper case, pull up the black tab of the silver cable away from its connector.
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While you have the upper case removed, you may want to take the opportunity to remove dust, hair, etc. It's best to use a can of compressed air, though if you use a brush, make sure that its bristles are made of a material (usually animal hair) that doesn't generate static electricity, which can destroy electronics.
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Grasp the white plastic tab attached to the hard drive and pull it to the left, removing the hard drive from the computer.
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Remove the two Phillips screws from the front edge of the optical drive.
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Two 3.25 mm Phillips #000, (Head: 4 mm. dia. x .3 mm thick)
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Disconnect the orange optical drive ribbon cable from the logic board. This cable can also be disconnected by prying straight up using a spudger.
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Disconnect the newly revealed display data cable. If there is no pull-tab on the top of the connector, it may be helpful to use a spudger to disconnect this connector.
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Peel up the foil tape between the fan and the optical drive. Lift the foil tape from the fan side, leaving it attached to the optical drive.
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During reassembly, be sure to route the cables beneath the tape before reattaching it.
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Pull up the display data cable from along the edge of the optical drive to reveal a silver Phillips screw.
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Remove the 2 mm Phillips #00 screw securing the optical drive.
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The Bluetooth cable may be covering the screw. If so, carefully push it aside. You may need to unscrew the cable clip to free the cable enough.
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Lift the front edge of the optical drive and slide it up and out of the computer.
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Remove the following 3 screws:
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Two 3 mm Phillips near the right speaker.
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One 6 mm Phillips threaded through a hole in a plastic finger above the subwoofer.
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Using a spudger, gently pry up the white plastic slot and slide the metal c-channel to the right and away from the display.
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Use a spudger to carefully disconnect the microphone cable from the logic board. You'll want to work from side to side, and slowly wiggle the connector out of its socket.
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Lift up on the black right speaker cable with one hand, and deroute the microphone cable from the silver metal clip just above the right RAM slot.
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If you didn't remove the ground loop screw in step 20 above, remove it now. It's a 7 mm (may be 4.2 mm in Santa Rosa/Penryn models) Phillips screw securing the ground loop in the right speaker cable and microphone cable to the metal framework.
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Deroute the microphone cable and the black display data cable from the tabs at the bottom of the subwoofer.
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Remove the single 3 mm Phillips screw securing the ground loop in the display data cable located just above the Bluetooth board.
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Disconnect the three antenna cables from the Airport card. There may be a square foam piece over the logic board connector.
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Remove the following 2 screws from the right hinge mount:
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One 6 mm Phillips on the left side of the hinge mount.
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One 10 mm Phillips on the right side of the hinge mount.
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For Santa Rosa/Penryn models, see second picture and remove:
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One 3 mm smalller diameter Phillips on the far left.
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One 5.2 mm larger diameter 4.2 mm head Phillips in the middle.
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One 10 mm Phillips from the far right.
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Lift the right hinge mount with the small plastic piece out of the computer.
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Hold the display with one hand while removing the screws from the left hinge mount.
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Remove the following 3 screws from the left hinge mount:
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One 7.2 mm smaller diameter Phillips from the right side.
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One 5.2 mm larger diameter Phillips from the middle.
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One 10 mm Phillips from the left side.
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Lift the left hinge mount with plastic piece out of the computer.
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Check that the cables on the right are not trapped under other cables.
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Grasp the display assembly on either side, and lift it up and out of the computer.
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Use a thin plastic card to release the tabs holding the front display bezel to the display assembly. There are five tabs along the left side of the display bezel.
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Lift up the front display bezel from the top and use your plastic card to free the tabs along the bottom edge of the display bezel.
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After freeing all holding tabs, lift the front display bezel away from the display assembly.
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Use a metal spudger or another thin tool to carefully pry the gray plastic clips off the tabs molded into the front display bezel. A 0.8mm flat screwdriver may be useful for this step.
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Insert the longer end of the retaining clip beneath the edge of its recess cut into the LCD bracket.
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Use the edge of a metal spudger to push the shorter tab on the other side of the retaining clip into the recess cut into the LCD bracket.
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Remove the three 4.2 mm Phillips screws securing the clutch cover.
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While holding the display down with one hand, use your other hand to lift the clutch cover off the clutch hinges.
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Lift up the right side of the clutch cover and guide the display data and iSight cables through the gap in the clutch cover.
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Lift the clutch cover out of the display assembly.
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Remove the small piece of foam tape stuck down above each of the bezel covers.
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Use a spudger to slide the left bezel cover towards the LCD panel.
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Lift the left bezel cover off the display assembly.
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Use a spudger to slide the right bezel cover toward the LCD panel.
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Lift the right bezel cover off the display assembly.
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Lift the inverter out of the display slightly and disconnect the backlight cable from its right side.
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Place the inverter back down in its recess.
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Remove the single 3.2 mm Phillips screw securing the display data cable to the right clutch hinge.
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Move the display data cable out from under the mounting arm of the right clutch hinge.
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Remove the twelve 4.2 mm Phillips screws securing the LCD assembly to the rear display bezel.
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Lift the LCD assembly out of the rear display bezel, minding any cables that may get caught.
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Turn the LCD panel assembly over so that the screen is face down. You may want to use a cloth on your worksurface to prevent scratching the screen.
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Peel up all the yellow tape securing the display data and iSight cables to the back of the LCD panel.
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Lift up the display data and iSight cables and move them to the side. It is not necessary to entirely remove these cables from the display assembly.
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De-route the microphone cable from the right side of the LCD assembly.
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Remove the two 3.1 mm Phillips screws securing the iSight holder to the top of the display.
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Lift up the LCD panel by its bottom edge and slide it out of the metal mounting brackets.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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Комментариев: 11
This guide is fantastic and has worked well for me. As other commenters have said and noted in the "Difficult" difficulty, it does require some skill and repair knowledge. The most important thing here is to keep track of your screws. I use a bead organizer for some perspective. All things said and done, be patient, keep your head, have the right tools and this fix is a piece of cake.
The directions are excellent! I did it... and it worked!!! The whole thing took me about 2 hours or so. While you have the computer apart, it's probably a good idea to replace the backlight inverter too (only about $20). I used the top and bottom of an egg carton to sort the screws by step, then reassembled using the screws in reverse order.
Quick Question: I seem to have an "extra" cable on my White Macbook (2007, IIRC) LCD. If you look at foto for Step 52 above, I have a thin BLUE cable running down the right-hand side - near the silver one - that goes down between the hinge and the edge of the back cover and then along the edge behind the inverter and then behind the other hinge, then goes up towards the LCD panel and is taped together in a 3-cable bunch with the 2 thin cables you can see on the left of of foto 52. This blue cable has the same "tip" as the other 2 in the foto.
Any ideas? Thanks.
In reply to Matt; there are 2 types of airport cards that come on these machines, some require 2 antennae leads and others use 3 (I believe the newer type uses 2). Some machines have the older style 3 leads even though they used the newer airport card, so they just left the tip off the unused lead.
To replace JUST THE CCFL BULB, would I really need to do all of this? Can the face of the LCD be removed to reveal the bulb enough for removal?
