Введение
Did your laptop go for an accidental swim? Logic board fried? Use this guide to install a new logic board in your MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Early 2013.
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Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:
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Eight 3.0 mm
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Two 2.3 mm
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Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.
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Set the lower case aside.
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Using the flat end of a spudger, gently pry the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.
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Bend the battery cables back and out of the way, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.
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Use a spudger or tweezers to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board.
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Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable's plug toward the fan and out of its socket on the logic board.
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Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the rubber heat sink cover on the right fan.
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Slide the spudger underneath the length of the cover, releasing the adhesive.
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Lift the cover and flip it back so that you can access the cables underneath.
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Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan.
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Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the rubber hinge covers up off the left and right hinges.
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Using the flat end of a spudger, pry the I/O Board connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.
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In a similar fashion, remove the I/O Board cable connector from its socket on the I/O Board.
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Remove the I/O Board cable from the MacBook Pro.
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Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort card to the logic board.
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Grasp the sides of the AirPort card and lift it up to a shallow angle (5-10˚) to separate the light adhesive adhering it to the logic board.
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Pull the AirPort card parallel out of its connector on the logic board to remove it.
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Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.
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Starting at the top of the cable, slide a plastic opening tool under the right fan cable to free it from the logic board.
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Remove the following three screws securing the right fan to the logic board:
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One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw
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One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw
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One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar
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Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the rubber heat sink cover up off the left fan.
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Remove the following three screws securing the left fan to the logic board:
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One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar
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One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar
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One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw
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Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.
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Starting at the top of the cable, slide a plastic opening tool under the left fan cable to free it from the logic board.
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Lift the left fan out of the device.
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Remove the single 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.
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Slightly lift the rightmost side of the SSD and firmly slide it straight away out of its socket on the logic board.
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Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the I/O board data cable lock and rotate it toward the battery side of the computer.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to slide the I/O board data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
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Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board to the logic board.
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On some models, also removing the silver 3.5 mm T5 Torx screw from the heatsink can aid in I/O board removal.
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Carefully lift the I/O board and remove it from the lower case.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.
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Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board
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Peel back the tape covering the top of the keyboard ribbon cable connector.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to push the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad ribbon cable connector up out of its socket.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.
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Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.
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Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket.
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Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.
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Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry off the rubber screw cap on the raised screw head near the MagSafe 2 connector.
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Remove the following six screws securing the logic board to to the upper case:
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One 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw
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One 2.5 mm T5 Torx screw
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One 5.5 mm silver, raised-head T5 Torx screw
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Two 5.7 mm T5 Torx screws
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One 3.8 mm silver T5 Torx screw
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Lifting from the side nearest the battery, rotate the logic board toward the top of the MacBook Pro.
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Using the flat end of a spudger, carefully push the MagSafe 2 connector out of its socket on the bottom of the logic board.
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Remove the logic board assembly from the MacBook Pro.
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Second photo, clockwise from top: battery, right speaker, keyboard backlight, AirPort/camera, display, microphone, left speaker, keyboard, and trackpad.
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Remove the four 3.5 mm T5 screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.
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Grip both ends of the heat sink and lift it up from the logic board.
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Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the metal retaining flap on the HDMI data transfer cable.
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Gently pull the HDMI data transfer cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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Very interesting. Thanks.
Question: is it possible to replace a Early 2013 Logic Board with a Late 2013 Logic Board? To be precise replace a Logic Board with GT 650M with a GT 750M ?
They are both for model A1398, they looks similar for positions of ports but I was not able to find anything that is confirming that they can swapped.
I have this same question! Did you find anything?
vnbiggs -
The only difference I know regarding the A1398 is the display connector with a different number and position of the pins:
# A1398 Early 2013
# A1398 Late 2013/2014
# A1398 2015
the display connector and display circuit board is different on each of these, so if you want to swap the motherboard you should also swap the LCD assembly.
Here is the best Disassembly video for A1398 with dedicated graphics with commentary for beginners: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mz5I2ITi...
