Danger
Potentially Dangerous
Injury may result if this procedure is not followed properly. Use caution and follow all warnings.
Danger

Introduction

I took my power brick apart in order to clean it. The power settings for my Xbox had been left on "Instant On" from the day of launch until earlier this year. With your system in Instant On the fan runs continuously drawing .16Amps/19Watts. Putting your console in its Energy Saving mode only draws .03Amps/4Watts. The amount of filth inside your power brick will depend on several factors such as the energy mode you keep your system set to. If the fan isn't running, obviously it isn't drawing in more dust/debris than it would if it was on. The last step has pictures that show just how filthy your electronics can get over time and the importance of cleaning them in order to keep them functional.

  1. Unlike the X360 Power Brick, these rubber boots require no tools to pry them up. Simply get your fingernails underneath and gently pull them up.
    • Unlike the X360 Power Brick, these rubber boots require no tools to pry them up. Simply get your fingernails underneath and gently pull them up.

    • Remove the 4 screws with your T10 security bit driver.

    Falls das nicht gelingt mit den Finger-Nägel: Einfach Holzschraube oben vorsichtig eindrehen, Gummifuss löst sich ab bzw. kann an der Schraube herausgezogen werden. Das “Loch” der Schraube sieht man nachher so gut wie nicht mehr.

    Flagsoft - Reply

    TIP : If you have problems remove the rubbers: Just use a wood screw and gently screw it in the center until the rubber lifts up !

    Flagsoft - Reply

  2. Using the point end of your plastic spudger, or your fingers, gently pull back the tab holding the fan power cord in place.
    • Using the point end of your plastic spudger, or your fingers, gently pull back the tab holding the fan power cord in place.

    • Gently pull the cable up and away from the circuit board.

    • If you look inside the yellow box, top left corner, you will notice a grey color on top of a capacitor. I'm not positive what this substance is but it has a consistency of sticky tack, if you remember playing with that as a kid. When I first opened the power supply the fan power cable was pressed into it rendering it stuck. Gently pull the cable up

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    • Use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the two larger screws.

    • The two smaller screws (orange) were a little tricky. They are screwed down very tight. I started with a #0 phillips head and slightly stripped the screw head. Not enough to destroy it. I recommend using a #1 phillips head on these. I also used a small rubber grip in order to get a better grip on my screwdriver. Made it much easier.

    • Once screws are removed lift the plastic frame from the left side and remove it from the top of the power brick and flip it over.

    • Unlike the X360 power brick, the light diffuser does not need to be removed from the power supply. If you want to remove it anyway simply grab it with your fingers and lift it out.

    • When I used a can of air duster to clean the inside, the smaller metal sheet (left side) immediately blew out. If this happens don't panic. There's tape on the bottom side. Simply put it back in with a little pressure to hold it down and you're good to go.

    • These screws serve no purpose. There was nothing under there. Unless you have a different variation than mine there is no need to remove these screws.

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    • Lift the fan from the side furthest away from the cable.

    • Pull the cable threw the hole in the frame and place the fan off to the side.

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    • Remove the 4 screws using a #0 Phillips head and remove the top of the fan housing.

    • Gently grab the fan and lift it up.

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    • Here is the info for the fan label in case anyone needs it for reference.

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    • Just under 3 years from the day it was purchased (Nov 22 2013) and now (Aug 12 2016) this is the amount of filth my power brick accumulated. I am only recently getting into electronics repairs which is why this didn't happen sooner.

    • After 1 year your Xbox/PS warranty becomes null and void unless you purchase an extended warranty. Clean your consoles before dirt and dust destroy them!

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Finish Line

28 other people completed this guide.

Navy Vet 2015

Member since: 06/25/2015

2,931 Reputation

9 Guides authored

20 Comments

Would this help with the orange light I am getting from the Xbox one power Brick?

angelorestrepo - Reply

Me too having the same question please help!!

kingasd -

What specifically is the problem angelorestrepo and kingasd? The orange light is an indicator that your system is in energy saving mode. What happens when you power up the unit?

Navy Vet 2015 - Reply

http://support.xbox.com/en-US/xbox-one/c...

Mind you at this point I have no idea what's really going on with either of your systems but it's possible this may be a really simple fix. Check this link and try these simple solutions if you haven't already.

Navy Vet 2015 - Reply

So i have a power brick that isnt getting any power at all... what do i go about replacing in the brick to restore my power supply??

Mark Gomes II - Reply

Those stupid first screws are borderline inpossible to get out

WrinkleyPotato - Reply

My “rubber boots” did not come out easily AT ALL, in fact I’m pretty sure they made a deal with the devil to seal those little suckers in there forever…. I had to nearly destroy the pads to get them out….

Kilik Jones - Reply

The rubber pads in mine were so tight, I had to tear them off and push a screwdriver into the middle and then they came out. Since the PS sits on the floor it’s no big deal. One could always attach felt pads if needed. The Torx 10 needs to be a security version that has a hole in the middle of it to fit far enough into the head. Remember, these are not consumer serviceable items and they try to keep the uninformed out. The fan clean out fixed mine.

libertyguy - Reply

This guide was great for getting mine apart as it blew the other day while i was on the xbox

Maty87 - Reply

Thanks Maty87! Always happy to hear my guides are helping others!!!

Navy Vet 2015 -

i also have noticed the pcb is different in mine would you like the photos updated I can get new photos

Maty87 - Reply

No, don’t change the photos. It’s labeled Day One Edition for a reason. If you change the pics it might confuse people. You should make a guide adding the new additions.

Navy Vet 2015 -

My Xbox One runs just fine without any USB devices connected to it. Once I connect an external HDD or Kinect it the power brick just turns Orange :( remove all USB devices and Voila its alive again.. could it be the Power brick is just time for replacement or a quick clean could resolve the issue?

Nicola Calisse - Reply

It sounds like your causing a short within the system when you plug in a USB powered device which would explain why it shuts down after plugin. If this is in fact the case I don’t believe cleaning the brick would be beneficial. Start with the simple stuff first. Blow out the USB ports on the console and devices you wish to plug in. If this doesn’t resolve it then I’d recommend opening the system, paying particular close attention to the USB ports. If a wire or solder contact has gotten loose then solder will need to be applied. It’s quite possible there’s something wrong with the systems USB port itself and simply needs to be replaced.

Navy Vet 2015 -

My Xbox one will be fine for a while, then shuts off out of nowhere. The power brick will have no lights at all once it shuts off and will not restart until I unplug it and plug it back in.

John LoFaro - Reply

Its time to buy a replacement brick my dude. I'm in the same boat. Bought a xb1 for $40 doesn't turn one at all. Took apart the brick. A capacitor is swollen. Not getting enough power to turn it on.

That guy Heist -

If you unplug and replug does it turn on immediately? This almost sounds like a overheating issue.

Navy Vet 2015 -

@ That guy Heist In your case your brick sounds like it just needs a replaced capacitor. This is an easy task even if you don’t have much solder experience. If left in place it may eventually burst and leak fluid on the board which can corrode the PCB. Check for markings on the side of the swollen cap so you know what to replace it with. If your cap has already began to leak take a Q-tip and a little vinegar to the leakage. This will neutralize the acidity. Often an entire device is replaced when only a .25 cent part is all that’s required to return to normal function. Hopefully this helps.

Navy Vet 2015 - Reply

I just wanted to say thank you for your time and effort, this is the most concise and well formatted instructions on XB1 PSU I've found, even if it did point out my ID-10-T error from only checking one foot pad, it helped immensely. My brother’s XB1 PSU’s fan sounds like somebody trying to herd cats. I looked it over for the “proper” opening method, using my experience in comparable fastener locations, but the one skid foot that I removed had the cover plug under it, so i assumed they were elsewhere. I looked for the retention methods a long while without finding them, and didn't want to aggressively separate it, and break it. I admitted defeat, and was happy to find clearly labeled pictures, but extremely grateful that you listed the bits needed, saving the time of test fitting a handful of loose bits.

allenjohnston031882 - Reply

You also mentioned that it's a security bit to inform people there's a difference, instead of suggesting to knock out the screw’s center pin with a drill/hammer like alot of instructions out there. For the desperate that can't readily access/buy a security bit, take a same sized/type standard bit and drill a 1/16 inch indentation about 1/8 inch deep into the center of the fitting end, it's once only, and if you make an error the only cost is the cheap bit, not the item you wish repaired, and any similar fasteners are taken care of in the future. I've had many people bring me items, from drones to cars, for costly damage repair from their failed attempts to remove that security pin.

allenjohnston031882 -

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