Перейти к основному содержанию

Введение

Use this guide to replace the hard drive.

    • With the hinge free to move, the iMac will be unbalanced and hard to work on. Repairs are fast and easy with an iMac service wedge, but can be completed without one.

    • If you are using the iFixit cardboard service wedge, follow these assembly directions to put it together.

    • Before beginning any work on your iMac: Unplug the computer and press and hold the power button for ten seconds to discharge the power supply's capacitors.

    • Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.

    The wedge is an extremely tight fit for this model. I was worried that the amount of force needed to use it as shown might damage the stand, so I used it with the long side down instead. It worked fine that way and didn’t need anywhere near as much force to insert.

    roberttrevellyan - Ответить

    Here are a couple tips from me:

    1) Expose the adhesive to extreme temperatures. I did this by transporting my iMac in my car, screen-down on a piece of cardboard on a cold February morning (in Chicago). When I went to pick up the iMac, the screen practically fell off the chassis. I would have been distraught by this if I hadn’t already planned this replacement. So it was a happy accident.

    2) Remember to expell the residual power from the power supply by pushing the power button while the iMac is unplugged. This does NOT guarantee it’s safe to touch, but when I accidentally brushed the solder and exposed capacitors, I didn’t get shocked.

    jerrid_foiles - Ответить

    Instead of using the wedge, I placed the iMac faced up with the top side (web cam) facing me while I ran the pizza roller around. It worked out great!

    Sam Fung - Ответить

    “All iMacs also come with a traditional hard drive” mine doesn’t!! it’s HDD bay is completely empty, no SATA cable or anything. I guess I’ll have to upgrade the PCIe SSD instead.

    Chris Hughes - Ответить

    There is no replacement glass for this model, it is part of the LCD and impossible to remove or replace- the entire LCD has to be replaced unfortunately if the glass is cracked or damaged. You will have to Google search for a replacement. Also be careful with some of the lock tight tork screws as I broke one of my screw mounts taking one out.

    Phil Tesone - Ответить

    I used this service wedge but also found it a very tight fit. The same stabilization can be achieved by using a big rolled up towel.

    Ernst - Ответить

    While this is a good instruction guide, I recommend to also look at OWC’s instruction video about drive installation, before starting the exercise. Those install videos are very detailed and useful.

    Ernst - Ответить

  1. Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the iMac Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear enclosure. The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert no more than 3/8" into the display. Otherwise, you risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage.
    • Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the iMac Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear enclosure.

    • The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert no more than 3/8" into the display. Otherwise, you risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage.

    Don’t get too worried about starting exactly where the picture says. The glue is stronger in some parts so just start wherever is easier and then work slowly and patiently around in the direction shown.

    Richard Cook - Ответить

    As this guide doesn’t cover replacing the adhesive strips, I found referring to the following was useful (noting that it’s not for the same model of iMac, so the modification they mention wasn’t necessary): iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2544 Adhesive Strips Replacement

    Alan Digby - Ответить

    It is very easy to crack the glass in front of the LCD during this step. I used the guitar pick, maybe it was too thick… crack is just on the frame but anyway it is disappointing :(

    Nikolay - Ответить

    This part of the exercise should be done with extreme patience. I took my sweet time with the opening tool, rolling it through the entire panel and enclosure gap over and over again, until I was very sure no parts were sticking together anymore. And when I thought I was I done, I decided to do it over again.

    Ernst - Ответить

    You can "warm up" the adhesive before try to cut it with the tool using a hair dryer. Heat the edges for about a minute, keep moving it so you don't cause stress in the glass. Also the above note.. use the tool and then the cards. Do not use a guitar pick or other objects as the thickness will cause you to break the front glass, which is a bonded part of the display (expensive).

    Carl Schultz - Ответить

  2. Use the tool like a pizza cutter—roll it along through the gap, and it will cut the foam adhesive through the center. Be sure to always push with the handle behind the cutting wheel. If you pull, the wheel might get pulled out of the handle. Run the tool up along the left side of the display.
    • Use the tool like a pizza cutter—roll it along through the gap, and it will cut the foam adhesive through the center.

    • Be sure to always push with the handle behind the cutting wheel. If you pull, the wheel might get pulled out of the handle.

    • Run the tool up along the left side of the display.

    Erreur de traduction: "de bas en haut" et non de" haut en bas" sur le côté gauche de l'écran

    Moreau - Ответить

    If re-opening a screen that was opened and re-attached using iFixit’s adhesive strips, I would strongly recommend heating it first with an iOpener, heat gun or hair dryer. 20 minutes after attaching with the iFixit adhesive I tried to open it again with the pizza slicer to fix something and cracked the screen on the left-hand side.

    plasticpool - Ответить

  3. Continue running the tool up around the top left corner. Continue running the tool up around the top left corner. Continue running the tool up around the top left corner.
    • Continue running the tool up around the top left corner.

    Ne pincez pas l’écran avec l’autre main. Vous exercez une pression inutile sur le verre et empêchez la roulette de couper le joint.

    phfoglia - Ответить

  4. Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display. Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display.
    • Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display.

  5. Continue along the top of the display. You may want to run the tool back and forth through what you've already cut a few times, to ensure you get as much of the adhesive separated as possible.
    • Continue along the top of the display.

    • You may want to run the tool back and forth through what you've already cut a few times, to ensure you get as much of the adhesive separated as possible.

    In this step can I cut along the display without make any damage to the front camera?

    arisnordico - Ответить

    Hi! Actually - there is no need to cut the tape around the camera area - there is no tape to cut at all! And so, the way go is easy - just pass 10 mm to the left and to the right from camera and start cutting!

    P.S. Just did the whole procedure to replace a RAM and to add SSD on PSIe an hour ago! Seems to be different reading the instructions... you know - 2/10 and so on. But it's really not that hard, trust me. I'll give it 5/10.

    P.P.S. By the way there is one trick to pass the difficult steps. Any action which requires pulling smth (motherboard, speaker, power supply unit) from the narrow crack (or should i say - slit?) at the bottom of your Imac is really not so easy.

    And the trick is to first remove a thin metal stripe with some kind of insulation on it which held by 5 small (very small!!) screws at the bottom of your Imac. After you done it - it's easy to pull everything! Pay attention to the fact that one of this 5 screws at the center are more shortly than others.

    dv1977 - Ответить

    After doing the replacement the adhesive still sticks quite good enough to hold the screen in place. Maybe this isn't rock-solid, but enough for me.

    Mirko - Ответить

    I did all steps like this manuell but now the Display wont work only some colered strips are to see! Whats happend??

    Can anybody help me ? Maybe the connector cable is broken?

    djfanta - Ответить

    Check both connectors, probably one of them not seated well

    pzhivulin -

    You can add a SATA SSD if you already have a PCIe SSD Factory?

    kaserlik - Ответить

    If you're changing cracked EMC 2638 display to new assembly, there's two more steps:

    Step 24: Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.

    Carefully pull the display data cable from its socket on the display assembly.

    Step 25: Use the tip of a spudger to unplug bracket of the thermal sensor small cable near display data cable.

    Carefully remove scotch tape covering thermal sensor. Using iSesamo or flat tip of the spudger carefully peel the thermal sensor away.

    pzhivulin - Ответить

    omg - forgot to switch the termal sensor from the old display...

    now fan runs like crazy...

    Andrei Balotescu -

    The key thing is to never put any force on the opening tool when working through the tape. Just roll it back and forth with ease.

    Ernst - Ответить

  6. Push the tool around the top right corner of the display. Push the tool around the top right corner of the display. Push the tool around the top right corner of the display.
    • Push the tool around the top right corner of the display.

  7. Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display. Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display.
    • Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display.

  8. Finish pushing the opening tool to the bottom of the right side of the display. At this point, you'll want to run the tool back around the entire display, to ensure you cut as much adhesive as possible.
    • Finish pushing the opening tool to the bottom of the right side of the display.

    • At this point, you'll want to run the tool back around the entire display, to ensure you cut as much adhesive as possible.

    Yes, do it many times to loosen the adhesive.

    Noah Ralston - Ответить

    Would be good data to show the 3 areas (wifi antennas where the "tape" is larger and covers them. The rest of the "tape" is 1.4" and easy. Also after removing the display, be sure to remove the old "tape" from both the display and the rubber parts of the case. Use the spudger to start an end and it should pull off easily. Careful on the baackside of the display as you can scratch off the black paint/covering.

    Carl Schultz - Ответить

  9. While the opening tool cut most of the adhesive, the display will still be slightly adhered to the case. A plastic card will be necessary to free up the last of this adhesive. Set the iMac face-up on a table. Starting from the top right corner of the iMac, wedge a plastic card between the display and frame.
    • While the opening tool cut most of the adhesive, the display will still be slightly adhered to the case. A plastic card will be necessary to free up the last of this adhesive.

    • Set the iMac face-up on a table.

    • Starting from the top right corner of the iMac, wedge a plastic card between the display and frame.

    • Be careful not to insert the plastic card more than 3/8", or you may damage internal components.

    this step is extremely important NOT to stick in the cards too far….. doing so, you risk a 600 euro replacement as I experienced………

    Edgar Broekema - Ответить

    I drew a 3/8” line on my cards with a marker first.

    Max Romano - Ответить

    I’m reading this on the EU store, please change all measurements to cm/mm.

    Morgana Devina - Ответить

    @ifixit The next batch of cards you create should have a line printed on the card 3/8” in from the edges. Would make a nice reference.

    Richard Giratd - Ответить

    Here’s where OWC provides glass removal suction cups, which is a better solution than plastic cards.

    The suction cups help to easily lift the glass panel, without risking the damaging of any internal wiring that the plastic cards could cause.

    Ernst - Ответить

    Better to remove stand wedge at this point? Can’t see from pics

    derekrobinson - Ответить

  10. Gently twist the plastic card sideways to create a gap between the display and frame. Move slowly and be careful not to stress the display glass too much—you only need to make a gap of about 1/4".
    • Gently twist the plastic card sideways to create a gap between the display and frame.

    • Move slowly and be careful not to stress the display glass too much—you only need to make a gap of about 1/4".

    This part must be done very carefully or you can damage the flat cable from display, despite it was under a iron cover.

    Cassio Machado - Ответить

  11. Slide the card toward the center of the display to cut any of the remaining adhesive along the top right corner of the iMac. Be sure to stop before the iSight camera, or you may damage it. Be sure to stop before the iSight camera, or you may damage it.
    • Slide the card toward the center of the display to cut any of the remaining adhesive along the top right corner of the iMac.

    • Be sure to stop before the iSight camera, or you may damage it.

    You don't need to do it like this, simply open the iMac bendidng the LCD completely and use the pizza cutter to remove the adhesive.

    Felix - Ответить

    Agreed. The card is too thick to cut through the adhesive in this way. Use the pizza cutter or a sharper blade at this point.

    Max Romano -

    Using glass removal suction cups will avoid running this risk of damaging the camera (or any wiring).

    Ernst - Ответить

  12. Wedge the plastic card into the top right corner once again, and leave it there to prevent the adhesive from resticking. Wedge the plastic card into the top right corner once again, and leave it there to prevent the adhesive from resticking.
    • Wedge the plastic card into the top right corner once again, and leave it there to prevent the adhesive from resticking.

  13. Insert a second plastic card into the gap between the display and frame near the top left corner of the iMac. Insert a second plastic card into the gap between the display and frame near the top left corner of the iMac. Insert a second plastic card into the gap between the display and frame near the top left corner of the iMac.
    • Insert a second plastic card into the gap between the display and frame near the top left corner of the iMac.

  14. Gently twist the card upward, slightly increasing the space between the display and frame. As with the other side, twist slowly to allow the adhesive time to separate, and be careful not to over-stress the display glass.
    • Gently twist the card upward, slightly increasing the space between the display and frame.

    • As with the other side, twist slowly to allow the adhesive time to separate, and be careful not to over-stress the display glass.

  15. Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera. Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera. Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera.
    • Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera.

  16. Wedge the plastic card back into the top left corner. Wedge the plastic card back into the top left corner.
    • Wedge the plastic card back into the top left corner.

  17. With both plastic cards inserted as shown near the corners, gently twist the cards sideways to increase the gap between display and case. If there are any sections that seem to stick and won't separate, stop twisting and use one of the cards to cut the remaining adhesive. Begin to lift the top of the display up from the frame.
    • With both plastic cards inserted as shown near the corners, gently twist the cards sideways to increase the gap between display and case.

    • If there are any sections that seem to stick and won't separate, stop twisting and use one of the cards to cut the remaining adhesive.

    • Begin to lift the top of the display up from the frame.

    • Only lift the display a few inches—the display data and power cables are still connected to the logic board.

  18. Use a pair of tweezers to flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable. Carefully pull the display data cable from its socket on the logic board. Be sure to pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.

    • Carefully pull the display data cable from its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket.

    Does anyone know where to find a replacement display cable for the 2014?

    PN: 923-00047

    PBMedic is out of stock

    Brian Hernandez - Ответить

  19. While holding the display up with one hand, use the other hand to unplug the display power cable. Lift the display up enough to have easy access to the connector, but not so much that you stretch the cables and stress their connections (about 8").
    • While holding the display up with one hand, use the other hand to unplug the display power cable.

    • Lift the display up enough to have easy access to the connector, but not so much that you stretch the cables and stress their connections (about 8").

  20. Lift the display up to a near-vertical position. At this point there is still a strip of adhesive along the bottom of the display, that will hold the display to the frame like a hinge. You can loosen this adhesive by working the display up and down a few times.
    • Lift the display up to a near-vertical position.

    • At this point there is still a strip of adhesive along the bottom of the display, that will hold the display to the frame like a hinge. You can loosen this adhesive by working the display up and down a few times.

  21. Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply (boxed in red). Grasp the small tab at the end of one of the bottom edge display adhesive strips and pull the adhesive toward the top of the iMac to remove it. Repeat this step with the other adhesive strip and remove it.
    • Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply (boxed in red).

    • Grasp the small tab at the end of one of the bottom edge display adhesive strips and pull the adhesive toward the top of the iMac to remove it.

    • Repeat this step with the other adhesive strip and remove it.

    • If either adhesive strip breaks before it's removed, use a plastic card to slice through the remaining adhesive.

  22. Lift the display up from the frame and remove it from the iMac. It may be necessary to slowly lift from one side, to peel against the remaining adhesive. Be very careful handling the display—it's big, heavy, and made of glass.
    • Lift the display up from the frame and remove it from the iMac.

    • It may be necessary to slowly lift from one side, to peel against the remaining adhesive.

    • Be very careful handling the display—it's big, heavy, and made of glass.

    • If you're replacing the display with a new one, you may need to transfer some components from the old display to the new display.

    • During reassembly, head over to our display adhesive guide to install the new adhesive.

  23. Remove the following screws securing the hard drive bracket to the rear enclosure:
    • Remove the following screws securing the hard drive bracket to the rear enclosure:

    • Two 21 mm T10 Torx screws from the left-hand hard drive bracket.

    • One 9 mm T10 Torx screw.

    • One 27 mm T10 Torx screw.

    Pay attention to this photo and where the fan is. It is 180° from where the previous step shows it is oriented to you.

    Max Romano - Ответить

  24. Remove the left and right hard drive brackets from the iMac. Remove the left and right hard drive brackets from the iMac.
    • Remove the left and right hard drive brackets from the iMac.

  25. Lift the hard drive from the edge nearest the logic board and pull it slightly out of its recess. The hard drive is attached by a single SATA power/data cable, do not attempt to fully remove it from the iMac. The hard drive is attached by a single SATA power/data cable, do not attempt to fully remove it from the iMac.
    • Lift the hard drive from the edge nearest the logic board and pull it slightly out of its recess.

    • The hard drive is attached by a single SATA power/data cable, do not attempt to fully remove it from the iMac.

    During the reassembly process I found it very difficult to plug the power/data cable on to the new hard drive. On my machine it’s very short and the fact that the cable comes into the plug from below at 90 degrees means it’s hard to keep straight on to the drive. I found this process could be made much easier by undoing 2 x T10 screws and CAREFULLY (there are cables attached) moving the adjacent speaker assembly a little away from the drive, reattaching once done. Hope this helps

    Jerry Frost - Ответить

    Moving the speaker helped tremendously! Thanks

    lucas -

  26. Use a spudger to disconnect the single SATA power and data combo cable. Use a spudger to disconnect the single SATA power and data combo cable. Use a spudger to disconnect the single SATA power and data combo cable.
    • Use a spudger to disconnect the single SATA power and data combo cable.

  27. Remove the hard drive from the iMac.
    • Remove the hard drive from the iMac.

    I found that there is one more torx screw underneath the hdd when you take it out. If you remove this it seems to be easier to reattach the SATA cable to the new drive.

    jeffjeffmurray - Ответить

  28. Peel the flexible hard drive sleeve off the top left corner of the hard drive. Peel the flexible hard drive sleeve off the top left corner of the hard drive.
    • Peel the flexible hard drive sleeve off the top left corner of the hard drive.

  29. Continue peeling the hard drive sleeve off the adhesive securing it to the hard drive. Remove the sleeve from the hard drive.
    • Continue peeling the hard drive sleeve off the adhesive securing it to the hard drive.

    • Remove the sleeve from the hard drive.

    • Hard Drive remains.

    Followed the instructions in this guide using the included tool that I got with the strips. Everything worked great. Put in a brand new Samsung 850 Evo 250GB Drive. The guide makes it sound a little bit more complicated but everything went pretty smooth. Just took it slow and easy.

    Michael Conrad - Ответить

    About torx is this good or what should I buy? https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B00CIIM...=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Matteo Raggi - Ответить

    If replacing with an SSD, do you just use a mount? (I’ve don't this replacement in 27” models and the hard drive doesn’t have a silicone casing so I’m wondering how to get around this)

    Arispa Weigold - Ответить

    Great guide. I wanted to upgrade my late 2012 as much as I could to accommodate my large iTunes library. So with a little bit of cutting on the rubber hard drive cushion, I put a 15mm 5 TB hard drive and replaced the 120GB blade SSD with OWC’s 1 TB blade SSD. Now have 5.95 TB of fast usable space with my fusion drive.

    tednmandy - Ответить

    No temperature sensor issues on this? I know the 27” needs a temperature sensor adapter.

    Chris Harding - Ответить

    I couldn’t get the SATA cable connected again with the rubber sleeve on. Luckily my iMac had it in two separate pieces to stick to the long sides only, so I plugged it in first and carefully attached the bumpers after.

    Max Romano - Ответить

    What’s the trick to connect the SATA cable to the disk?? There’s very little play in the connector. Am unable to position it properly to get a connection. Maybe my fingers are too large.

    Also, the photos are a bit misleading with regard to disconnecting the data display cable - show tweezers pulling on the distal end of the cable, which, is very fragile. Pictures should be improved and better description of that step added.

    George Guess - Ответить

    Success! For those contemplating this, it takes some persistence and a perfect diagonal positioning of the SATA cable connector to attach the hard drive. Geez - Apple always seems to make things so easy for us average joes and janes.

    George Guess - Ответить

    I was very impressed with the instructions above, took my time and was patient all through. I had to spend some time in the installation of the OS, care is required and attention to restoring a good backup is necessary. I had great success and would recommend undertaking this task. Many thanks IFIXIT.

    Liam Foster - Ответить

    Successfully replaced harddrive when original crashed in Big Sur upgrade. Excellent instructions.

    Heikki Hanhimaki - Ответить

    Is the hard drive you remove accessible once removed? Can you pull data off the drive once removed? Great job explaining the removal process.

    Paul - Ответить

    Paul, you would have to get a external case inclosure to install the drive into. There are USB and SATA versions.

    B Jack - Ответить

    Since I unplugged a SATA cord to remove, will I need a SATA case? Gonna connect to new 24” iMac (M1) and try and grab the pics and music.

    Paul -

    The IFIXIT kit I bought included a SATA case, which I used to pull the data off the old hard drive which was on its last legs. Thank you, IFIXIT!

    This was my first attempt at opening an iMac for anything but RAM upgrade (when it was possible easily on older iMacs). I too took it easy and slow. Replacing the hard drive was the easiest part of all this! The hardest part, which I'm still struggling with, was unplugging and replugging the display data and power cables. I was able to install an OS on the new SSD but in order to close the machine I had to unplug the display cables, and it seems that one of them did not seat properly, since the computer starts up but the display is black. Sigh. I will have to do the cutting and pasting of the glue strips all over again. Apple really doesn't want us doing these repairs.

    Amacl - Ответить

Заключение

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse and use our Adhesive Strips Guide to reattach the display glass.

67 участников успешно повторили данное руководство.

Комментариев: 18

Is there a problem with the fan if I install SSD?

asrugo770 - Ответить

Yes. There is a thermal sensor, which is going crazy after replacement.

And also have a problem with kernel_task after upgrade...

markeev -

is there a solution about the termal sensor and the kernel_task issue?

Roberto Bonilla - Ответить

is there a solution about the termal sensor and the kernel_task issue?

i have the same problem, CPU 700 %…

roro974 - Ответить

I’ve run into the same thing: fans are running constantly with a new 1 TB 2.5” drive that I pulled from a 2012 iMac. I can use MacsFanControl as a 3rd party fix, but if anyone has a better (command line?) solution, I would be grateful!

Aaron Schine - Ответить

SSD Fan Control is doing the job perfectly !

Jose Vilar -

Thank you for posting this. Awesome! I am an IT Admin at a school and have Techie Students that help with the smaller things. One of the iMacs went bad. I had him follow this guide and he was able to replace the hard drive successfully!! Thank you!

Patti Braun - Ответить

What do you have to do with the temp sensor to make the fans behave normally after installing a SSD in an originally hard drive based iMac?

Andrew spoelstra - Ответить

Install the SSD into the HD bay and download the SSD Fan Control application to avoid fan noise (easier, but less legitimate)

Install the SSD into the HD bay with the OWC thermal sensor (Extremely difficult, considerably more expensive, but works properly). Link for thermal sensor: https://eshop.macsales.com/item/OWC/DIDI.... Link for SSD Fan Control: http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/

pfrohwein - Ответить

You should have installed the OWC inline thermal sensor.

MacFans is the only other solution.

https://eshop.macsales.com/item/OWC/DIDI...

rockpiano54 - Ответить

This guide is for the Mid-2014 21.5” 2808 machine, which does not have any thermal sensor on the STANDARD 2.5’” HDD. I just completed mine, and it’s totally silent, no fan issues as I’m typing this. I suggest some of the peeps above are posting in the wrong guide, and may have 27” machines with 3.5” HDD with the thermal sensor issue. A great guide, well written and illustrated, excellent 10/10.

Phil Reed - Ответить

Exactly. I just replaced my HD with an SSD and absolutely no fan noice.

Also a 21.5” imac a1418 emc 2805.

Pretty straight forward repair.

Christian Tørring -

I’ve just replaced the internal HDD by a Samsung 850 Pro SSD 256 GB. There is no need for any special cable, thermal sensor or additional software, the SSD runs fine. Model is a Mid 2014 iMac 21.5”, EMC 2805, 1.4 GHz i5, no Fusion Drive.

kriechel -

The issue with the fan is easily sorted with the software solution SSDfancontrol is free and works 99% of the time for me.

macfixer - Ответить

Outstanding kit by iFixit for replacing the HHD.

Great guide, I followed it step by step and had no problem but one: when reinserting the cable into the new SSD, I had no room for my fingers. I had to loose the black plastic cover to the left in order to have a bit more room and succeeded.

Then, I added an extra check before sealing the screen, powering on the Mac just to be sure I reconnected correctly the screen cables.

Now the Mac is super fast!

Aran Banjo - Ответить

Good guide, thank you very much :-)

Dariusz - Ответить

Thanks for the manual and the parts/tools to do this repair. It took me a lot more time than listed though :-)

David Shelton - Ответить

Добавить комментарий

Просмотр статистики:

За последние 24часов: 13

За последние 7 дней: 56

За последние 30 дней: 267

За всё время: 47,939