washer showing error Ld
The machine won't start and has code Ld
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mamajtown, Ld code is for Long Drain: this could indicate that the washing machine is taking longer than 5 minutes to drain out enough water to reset the water pressure switch. This can be caused by a clogged or blocked drain hose(remove drain hose and check for clog or colasped/pinched hose), a clogged drain pump or a defective drain pump(remove pump disassemble check for debri,etc., test pump for function/replace pump if not working).
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mamajtown just to add to the excellent answer from @lpfaff1. It could be that you have a defective drain pump or something in the pump preventing it from draining. You could always try to unclog the pump. Here are some decent instructions:
Things You Will Need
5/16-inch nut driver
Unplug your Maytag Bravos washer from the electrical outlet.
Slide the washer forward to access the drain and water supply hoses. Turn off the Bravos’ water supply at the wall. Use pliers to turn the water supply hose connections at the back of washer counterclockwise to remove them from the appliance. Use a bucket to catch any water left in the hoses. Pull the drain hose from the appliance drain hose or utility sink.
Secure the washer lid to the cabinet with a piece of duct tape. Tilt the Bravos washer forward and let the front of the appliance rest on the floor so you can reach the drain and recirculation pumps.
Locate the drain pump on the top left side of the washtub and the recirculation pump on the top right of the tub. Short, elbow-shaped inlet hoses connect both pumps to the bottom of the washtub. Discharge hoses connect to the side of the pumps and run up the side of the washtub. Two hose clamps hold the inlet hoses to the washtub and to the pumps.
Use pliers to squeeze the ends of the inlet hose clamps closest to the pumps. Slide the clamps halfway up the inlet hoses. Squeeze the ends of the discharge hose clamps and slide them away from the pumps.
Find the three 5/16-inch hex head screws holding the drain and recirculation pumps to the bottom of the washtub. Use a 5/16-inch nut driver to remove the screws from the pumps.
Unsnap the wire covers from the ends of both pumps to reach the wire harnesses. Unplug the harnesses from the pumps.
Look inside the inlet opening on both pumps. Use needle-nose pliers to remove any cloth or debris clogging the pump inlets. Look inside the inlet hoses still connected to the underside of the washtub for any cloth or debris clogging the pump inlet hoses. Use the needle-nose pliers to remove debris from the inlet hoses.
Reconnect the pumps to the bottom of the washtub. Attach the inlet and outlet hoses to the pump. Slide the hose clamps back to their original positions. Plug the harnesses back into the pumps and snap close the wire covers.
Return the Maytag Bravos washer to its upright position. Reconnect the inlet hoses to the back of the appliances. Insert the drain hose into the drain pipe or reconnect it to the utility sink. Turn on the water supply, plug the appliance into the wall and push it back into its original location. from here
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I ran the washer’s self test (search for Maytag Bravos Diagnostic Modes) and found that the drain step (C7 or C8) did not drain. Definitely pointed to drain pump issue.
I followed the instructions to check the drain pump. It was clear, so used a pair of Disconnect Wire Connectors attached to the male end of an old power cord to connect the drain pump to AC power and found it would drain the washer.
My next step was to unplug the washer and then take the control head off (3 screws) to get at the control board. Before taking anything off the control board take pictures of the wiring harnesses and pressure sensor tube, then number each connector as you disconnect it. Note that the blue wires on connector P4 run to the drain pump. At this point you could order a replacement control board for about $150.
Before spending $150 I wanted to look at the control board to see if there was anything obvious. Use a wrist strap if you have one (otherwise ground yourself on one of the chassis screws) to remove the control board and place on an anti-static mat or bag. Following the blue wire connections on P4 I found that the drain pump was controlled by power relay K9 (I think that was the number - follow the traces to double check). All the solder connections looked OK so I suspected the power relay failed. I ordered a Omron G5Q-A4 DC12 from Newark Electronics ($1.37 + shipping so I got 3). With a soldering iron, solder sucker, and solder I was (after figuring out the technique) able to remove the old power relay and install a new one. Using the anti-static procedure I used earlier I re-installed the control board, reattached the connectors and pressure sensor tube, and reattached the control head.
I re-ran the washer’s self test and was very happy it completed. I have since run a few full loads and it’s still draining. Hopefully there is not a problem with any of the power circuitry on the control board or with the drain pump that will cause the relay to fail again, but only time will tell.
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