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Cord that connects to door switch in dryer no longer starts

I've had a Whirlpool dryer for 17 years and it worked fine until it recently stopped working. It was plugged in, the door was shut properly, and the power outlet works when I plug in something else into it. Now it doesn't run at all. No turning or heat. I also confirmed continuity between the 2 metal pins on the thermal fuse

I thought the former door switch was the problem because I got a multimeter and last week it detected continuity in the female end that connects to the control board but found no continuity between the pins in the old door switch

I ordered a new door switch from here: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlp...

After I finally received the new door switch and confirmed there was continuity between its pins, I just inserted it into the dryer, but it still won't start. I then checked for continuity in the female end that connects to control board but it now no longer has any detected continuity

If this is confusing, I attached some photos: https://imgur.com/a/BMT1sj8

The bottom photo is the female end I'm talking about that no longer has continuity

Did I not correctly check for continuity in the female end? Was I supposed to check the continuity between its pins and the blue and white cords in the very bottom of the first image?

Ответ на этот вопрос У меня та же проблема

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When I look at the pictures you posted you included a picture of the connector for your door on the dryer side - 1 white wire and one blue wire. The wires are in PIN1 and PIN3 only on the dryer side. That means you can ignore the switches middle wire. When the switch is not closed you should have resistance between PIN1 and PIN3 on the switch (reading infinity depending on your meter). When you close the switch the resistance should drop to zero so the dryer know the door is closed.

You do not need to worry about the circuit breaker and/or fuse in your electrical panel. It appears that this dryer is a gas dryer so you should have both a gas line and power cord. You already said you get power to your dryer because you already plugged in other electronics and your plug works. Is your gas/pilot light ignited?

You can see most of the parts for your dryer here. Open a page and you will get an exploded parts diagram.

https://www.partselect.com/Models/LGR463...

I am not as familiar with Gas dryers but you have the thermal fuse and the thermostats. You will want to check all of these items. There is no secondary fuse for the electrical system in your dryer according to the parts lists. They should be at 0 ohms (no resistance). Look at the parts diagram on the "BULKHEAD" page for parts 6 (thermal fuse), 8 (thermostat internal bias), 15 (Thermal Cutoff). These parts will keep your dryer from turning on. You will also want to check your start switch. It should have infinite resistance when not pressed and drop to 0 resistance when pressed. If your start switch has failed your dryer will not start even with everything else in working order. Look at the "TOP AND CONSOLE" page from the link above and investigate part 27.

I don't think you need to look at gas components yet.

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Did you check the circuit breaker? Perhaps the dryer isn't getting any power.

Unplug the dryer, and check the other electrical parts for continuity. There may be another part that is also bad.

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You already verified there is power at your dryer because other items work when plugged in. That confirms the issue is inside your dryer. Does your model have a wiring diagram inside it? Some appliances like this have one that is just inserted or one that is glued to the sides.

When you test the door switch - on the door switch harness - you need a meter to show when the switch is not closed there is no continuity (door is open). When you press the switch you should get continuity (door is closed).

Did the power cord melt somewhere or rub through inside or outside the dryer? Is there a second fuse in the dryer (not the thermal fuse). You could just have a failed control board.

Do you have the exact model of the dryer?

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How do I check for the circuit breaker, control board, or second fuse? The model is Whirlpool LGR4634JQ1

When the door is open, when I check the 1st and 2nd pins of the door switch I get an initial resistance of .3 ohms and then it decreases to 0 after a couple seconds but there is no continuity between the 1st and 3rd pins. When the door is closed, I get the opposite: when I check the 1st and 3rd pins of the door switch I get an initial resistance of .3 ohms and then it decreases to 0 after a couple seconds but there is no continuity between the 1st and 2nd pins

I did not see a wiring diagram inside it or glued to the sides.

I did not see the power cord melt somewhere or rub through inside or outside the dryer

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