When I look at the pictures you posted you included a picture of the connector for your door on the dryer side - 1 white wire and one blue wire. The wires are in PIN1 and PIN3 only on the dryer side. That means you can ignore the switches middle wire. When the switch is not closed you should have resistance between PIN1 and PIN3 on the switch (reading infinity depending on your meter). When you close the switch the resistance should drop to zero so the dryer know the door is closed. You do not need to worry about the circuit breaker and/or fuse in your electrical panel. It appears that this dryer is a gas dryer so you should have both a gas line and power cord. You already said you get power to your dryer because you already plugged in other electronics and your plug works. Is your gas/pilot light ignited? You can see most of the parts for your dryer here. Open a page and you will get an exploded parts diagram. https://www.partselect.com/Models/LGR463... I am not as familiar with Gas dryers but you have...

You already verified there is power at your dryer because other items work when plugged in. That confirms the issue is inside your dryer. Does your model have a wiring diagram inside it? Some appliances like this have one that is just inserted or one that is glued to the sides. When you test the door switch - on the door switch harness - you need a meter to show when the switch is not closed there is no continuity (door is open). When you press the switch you should get continuity (door is closed). Did the power cord melt somewhere or rub through inside or outside the dryer? Is there a second fuse in the dryer (not the thermal fuse). You could just have a failed control board. Do you have the exact model of the dryer?

When water is spilled on a board you can not simply dry it out. The water does evaporate but leaves behind residue and corrodes parts - often not visible without a microscope. You have to clean it to get it to work properly provided the damage is minimal. Sometimes the water will damage parts that leave the device unusable without board repair/replacement. As mentioned by @mdrecovery you can try to use alcohol. Your best option is to find someone with an ultrasonic cleaner. I agree you can remove the removable parts (which should be obvious) but do not pry or pull on anything that is soldered.

I use a company called The Repair Depot to service my companies devices. You can see if they can help. https://www.therepairdepot.com You may also be able to get the parts from Tech Orbits. http://www.techorbits.com I have never had to repair the specific device you own. The screen does not seem to be easy available online.

I had this problem with an e-reader and it turned out that it quit charging. After placing the e-reader on a new charger it started working again. The models we use in our school are all nooks but this may help you out too.

The led flashes should be timed (like Morris Code). That timing should tell you what is faulty in your main circuit board. Since this is a laptop you can remove some things like the DVD, Hard Drive, RAM, and USB devices and try to power on the laptop. See if you get different errors. For example you may get beeps with the RAM out. The pattern of the LED's will be critical to diagnose the issue. I think the main circuit board (aka motherboard) may need to be replaced.

What program are you using. In most cases you can drag an e-mail from your inbox to a folder or if the message is open there is typically a button that allows you to select a folder to move a message into.

Most of the time this is due to software misbehaving. First update your Dell hardware drivers and BIOS. The driver updates may be difficult if your system will not reboot after installing them - you may need to switch the system off an back on so set restore points during this process. You can get all of the updated drivers from Dell's website for free. Once your drivers are updated look for updates for your programs. There can be notification area processes (programs by your date/clock like Dropbox, Antivirus, and others) running that are stopping the shutdown. If possible uninstall any applications you are not using using the control panel. Finally look for viruses and malicious software. You can use multiple tools to make sure nothing is overlooked. If these options do not work to solve the issue post back and it will be possible to try other steps.

This sounds like a sensor issue on the main logic board. If I am correct, Apple recommends replacing the board. Basically what happens is a sensor reads a bad value (too hot, low voltage, high voltage, etc..) and lowers the PC to it lowest possible settings to protect the hardware. The result is a machine that cannot be used in the crippled state. This happens a lot with the power adapter. Since you are traveling you likely cannot find an apple service center. You may end up being force to buy a new machine. Your other option would be to find someone who may service Apple devices but that is rare - Apple does not provide service info to third parties.