Введение
Upgrade your storage with a new hard drive.
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Power down your Mac mini, disconnect all of the cables, and flip it over.
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Insert the Jimmy into the crack between the aluminum top housing and the plastic lower housing.
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The Jimmy should reach a stop about 3/8" down.
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Gently bend the Jimmy outwards to pry the crack open a little larger and lift the lower housing up a small amount.
Patience is your best friend.
Do not insert “jimmy in too far. Marking a line from tip upwards on the tool will prevent too far insertion, possibly breaking tabs or damaging internal components.
To prevent the cover closing back up, small strips of matchbook cover (os equivalent) can be inserted about half inch hold prevent closure.
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Once you have the first side free, rotate the Mac mini and start prying up on the front edge.
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Use the same prying motion to both bend the clips inward and lift the lower housing up out of the top housing.
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You may need to move the Jimmy along the edge to pry up all of the clips. Be patient and do a little bit at a time.
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Flip the Mac mini back over and lift the top housing off of the lower housing.
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Grasp the Airport antenna board and lift it off of the two plastic posts holding it in place. You may need to push back the black plastic tab jutting through the lower left corner of the board.
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Remove the yellow tape securing the power button cable to the black plastic framework.
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Remove the three black Phillips screws securing the plastic framework to the logic board and lower case.
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Grasp the optical drive and mass storage unit in one hand and lift up enough so that you can see beneath it.
I just put in a 1G RAM chip that just came in the mail from iFixit. And though I followed every step this step (removing the HD, cooling fan, and drive unit) was not needed. I put the chip in, put everything back in place then removed and replaced the RAM with no problems. So it would seem that for a/my PowerPC Mac Mini (I have a 1.33 Ghz processor) it was not a needed step.
BTW, it took about 15 - 20 min even with my experimentation.
Цитата от(из) mbob518:
I just put in a 1G RAM chip that just came in the mail from iFixit. And though I followed every step this step (removing the HD, cooling fan, and drive unit) was not needed. I put the chip in, put everything back in place then removed and replaced the RAM with no problems. So it would seem that for a/my PowerPC Mac Mini (I have a 1.33 Ghz processor) it was not a needed step.
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With your free hand, pull the Bluetooth cable up from Bluetooth board and unplug the Airport antenna cable from the right of the Airport card. Caution: both of these connections are very small. When re-assembling unit after repair, you may want to remove the two screws holding the airport card to the assembly and lift the card up and out to re-attach the cables.
Same problem here on this one. There seems to be no way to get them off and I can't seem to unscrew this thing. I think this otherwise great guide should be more precise about how to get the antenna cables out of the way :-(
Antenna cables just pop off - straight up.
Must be perfectly aligned when reconnecting as well before you re-seat them.
Small needle nose pliers may be useful or a spudger or flat jewelers screwdriver to pry up on the cable as close to the connector as possible.
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Remove the three long, black Phillips screws from the corners of the fan. These screws are strongly threaded, and will offer significant resistance.
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Peel up the yellow tape securing the speaker and fan cables to the bottom of the hard drive.
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Use a #1 Phillips to remove the two screws attaching the right side of the hard drive to the plastic framework. You'll need to angle the screwdriver down to get access to the lower right screw. Be sure to apply steady force to the screws and turn slowly so as not to strip them.
If one has a thin screwdriver, there is a hole in the plastic to keep the screwdriver straight when removing the lower right screw. That hole is closed with a piece of yellow tape to keep the airflow, so after replacing the drive, one needs to use a piece of scotch tape to cover the hole again.
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Use the same screwdriver and steady force to remove the two screws attaching the left side of the hard drive to the plastic framework.
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Use a spudger to pry the hard drive away from the interface board. Wedge the flat end of the spudger between the interface board and the far right side of hard drive and wiggle back and forth until the hard drive slides out about a sixteenth of an inch. Then move to the other side and repeat the procedure. Go back and forth until the hard drive slides free.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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10 Комментариев
Pulled the 40GB drive from my Mac Mini G4 and replaced it with a solid state drive (mSATA to PATA enclosure with a 120GB mSATA drive). Since my Mac Mini runs MorphOS instead of OS X, it’s been absolutely screaming; MorphOS booted in 10 seconds on the HDD, and now it’s “blink and you’ll miss it” fast on the SSD! :)
I dropped the three screws on the floor and can’t find them. What size are these screws so I can buy new ones?
I made those changes with an PATA to SATA adapter but my SSD isn’t recognized, do you have a solution or a specific accessory?
Another problem I have is in C704 capacitor (closely to the processor backward from DVI port) that is broken...Do you know what are the main characteristics of it to change it? Thanks…
@fordeverblue Check the jumper settings on the drive. The optical drive and the hard drive share the same channel, so one has to be set to primary and the other to secondary (“master” and “slave”). “Cable Select” won’t work AFAIK. A lot of Apple combo drives have no jumpers and are always primary, so the HDD has to be secondary. Some PATA to IDE adapters have no jumpers or have jumpers without documentation, so some trial and error may be in order.
Hi, thanks for your advice. I was thinking that the HDD was the primary but if you say that the Combo Drive is I will try to put the Jumper as Secondary.
Which PATA to SATA adapter did you guys use successfully for an SSD replacement? (specific links please) I mistakenly bought a 40-Pin IDE to SATA Converter (the StarTech one), which worked great for replacing HDs to SSDs in two G3 iMacs, but obviously this won’t fit this config. Not only is the pinout wrong (NOW I know the difference between IDE and PATA) but the adapter won’t even fit into the drive enclosure. Thanks all. Looking to complete my plan to supercharge this 1.25 Ghz Mac Mini with the SSD as well as 1 gig of RAM.
I always make my own IDE drives from an 1.8" mSATA SSD and a mSATA/IDE case. Has always worked great in everything from the G3 Pismo on up.
The steps I used to install Leopard on my new hard drive (PATA) are shown here: https://archive.org/details/osx-leopard-...
or here:
I started with a new hard drive and formatted it using a Vantec IDE/SATA to USB 3.0 adapter (best $20 I've spent) on a mac running High Sierra. Using disk utility, I clicked on the new drive, then "View" and then "Show all devices". I clicked on "Erase", and the option for "Apple Partition Map" appears, and Mac OS Extended (Journaled), and ran that to format the drive. Then put the drive in the computer.
I downloaded the ISO file onto my computer. Formatted the flash drive to Mac OS Extended (Journaled), and clicked on "Restore", using the iso file for the "restore from" option, and the flash drive as the destination. This is the boot drive.I put the flash drive was in the computer and booted it into Open Firmware by clicking option-command-O-F after the chime. The drive happened to be inserted in "USB1", so I typed Boot usb1/disk@1:,\\:tbxi
If "usb1" doesn't work, try "usb0"
The hard drive may require partitioning....the first time I formatted it as Mac OS Extended (Journaled) I created a Guid partition. I don't know whether the partition is required for the drive to function, but it didn't hurt anything, once I had the correct formatting (above).
wyrra -
A spackle knife makes these steps go much faster.
jouniseppanen - Ответить
A double sided letter opener or a thin non-serrated butter knife will suffice.
To prenent cosmetic blemishes, place a matchbook cover or similar thin cardboard on the outer perimeter under the “jimmy”.
Mike - Ответить
Despite mentioning recommended tools at the top I think it’s really worthwhile making a point about narrow Philips screwdrivers at this point before people start putting the case apart.
Matt D - Ответить