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Введение

This motherboard includes all ports on the left side.

  1. Use a coin or spudger to rotate the battery-locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.
    • Use a coin or spudger to rotate the battery-locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.

  2. Lift the battery out of the computer.
    • Lift the battery out of the computer.

  3. Unscrew the three evenly-spaced Phillips screws from along the rear wall of the battery compartment.
    • Unscrew the three evenly-spaced Phillips screws from along the rear wall of the battery compartment.

    • The screws are captive to the metal memory cover so you cannot lose them.

  4. Rotate the L-shaped memory cover so it clears the battery compartment opening and lift it up and out of the computer.
    • Rotate the L-shaped memory cover so it clears the battery compartment opening and lift it up and out of the computer.

  5. Remove the following 3 screws:
    • Remove the following 3 screws:

    • One 11 mm Phillips#00 in the middle of the case. (Head: 5mm dia. x .75mm thick)

    • Two 14.5 mm Phillips #00 (Head: 5mm dia. x .75mm thick)

    • If the screws stick in the case, you can use a magnetized screwdriver to draw them out.

    • The shorter of the three screws goes in the middle.

  6. Take extra caution with these screws as they can strip easily!
    • Take extra caution with these screws as they can strip easily!

    • Remove the following 3 screws from the rear wall of the battery compartment:

    • One 3 mm Phillips #0. (Head: 2.75 mm. dia.)

    • Two 4 mm Phillips #0 on the either side. (Head: 2.75mm dia.)

  7. Remove the two Phillips screws from either side of the right wall of the battery compartment (not the ones closest to the battery connector).
    • Remove the two Phillips screws from either side of the right wall of the battery compartment (not the ones closest to the battery connector).

    • Two 6.25 mm Phillips #000. (Head: 4 mm. dia. x .5mm thick)

  8. Remove the four indicated Phillips screws from the front wall of the battery compartment. When working from the left, remove the 2nd, 4th, 7th and 9th screw.
    • Remove the four indicated Phillips screws from the front wall of the battery compartment. When working from the left, remove the 2nd, 4th, 7th and 9th screw.

    • Four 3.25 mm Phillips #000. (Head: 4 mm. dia. x 4mm thick)

  9. Remove the following 4 screws from the back of the computer:
    • Remove the following 4 screws from the back of the computer:

    • The longer screws go on the inside, shorter screws on the outside.

    • Two 11 mm Phillips #00, with Shank (2.2mm dia. x 2 mm len.) (Head: 3.2 mm. dia. x .5mm thick)

    • Two 7.25 mm Phillips #00, with Shank (2mm dia. x 3.75 mm len.) (Head: 3.2 mm. dia. x .5mm thick)

  10. Remove the two Phillips screws from the optical drive side of the computer.
    • Remove the two Phillips screws from the optical drive side of the computer.

    • Two 5.2 mm Phillips #00, with Shank (2.3mm dia. x 3.5 mm len.) (Head: 3.2 mm. dia. x .5mm thick)

    • It is not necessary to remove the similar screws on the other side of the computer.

  11. There's a trackpad and keyboard ribbon connecting the upper case to the logic board, so don't pull the upper case off entirely just yet.
    • There's a trackpad and keyboard ribbon connecting the upper case to the logic board, so don't pull the upper case off entirely just yet.

    • Starting near the display and working around to the front of the computer, pry up on the upper case. A plastic opening tool or a medium hard guitar pick may help you to do this.

    • The upper case is likely to stick at the connection above the optical drive. If this is the case, first free all other sides, then proceed to pull upward on the upper case from either side of the optical drive opening.

    • If you stand the base on end to get a better look you may displace the total of 4 grey plastic clips that hold the keyboard in place. Don't panic. They slide into slots at the top right-most edge near the CD drive.

  12. While holding up the upper case, pull up the black tab of the silver cable away from its connector. If there is no black tab, you can also use a spudger to gently pry the connector from its housing.  This connector is tall, so be sure to pry straight up. If you happen to break your upper case cable when removing the upper case, we stock the cable individually and we have a guide that makes replacing it easy.
    • While holding up the upper case, pull up the black tab of the silver cable away from its connector.

    • If there is no black tab, you can also use a spudger to gently pry the connector from its housing. This connector is tall, so be sure to pry straight up.

    • If you happen to break your upper case cable when removing the upper case, we stock the cable individually and we have a guide that makes replacing it easy.

    • While you have the upper case removed, you may want to take the opportunity to remove dust, hair, etc. It's best to use a can of compressed air, though if you use a brush, make sure that its bristles are made of a material (usually animal hair) that doesn't generate static electricity, which can destroy electronics.

    • Upon reassembly, there are 4 grey plastic clips on the optical drive side of the keyboard (refer to second picture). They must be installed in their slots for the keyboard to snap in properly.

    • To make the reassamble process easier, it's better to pull out the clips first by pulling it straight up gently. Be careful not to put too much strength because it will break.

  13. Disconnect the MagSafe board cable from the logic board by pulling the snap-in connector out (to the right).
    • Disconnect the MagSafe board cable from the logic board by pulling the snap-in connector out (to the right).

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  15. Remove the single 9 mm Phillips screw securing the left speaker to the lower case.
    • Remove the single 9 mm Phillips screw securing the left speaker to the lower case.

    • Lift the left speaker out of its housing and set it to the side.

  16. Remove the following 3 screws:
    • Remove the following 3 screws:

    • Two 7.5 mm Phillips from either end of the left I/O frame.

    • One 9 mm Phillips from the middle of the left I/O frame.

    • Remove the small black plastic spacer at the bottom of the left I/O frame.

  17. Lift the left I/O frame up and out of the computer. Pay attention to the thin metal EMI fingers, as they may catch as you remove the left I/O frame.
    • Lift the left I/O frame up and out of the computer. Pay attention to the thin metal EMI fingers, as they may catch as you remove the left I/O frame.

    • The speaker wire may be hooked onto the I/O frame. Lift it out of the catch and don't forget to put it back when you are reversing the procedure.

    • The part of the shield you are removing is attached to other part by little hooks underneath that are hard to see until you have it apart. They're located over the headphone jack and the firewire port.

  18. Peel up the foil tape between the fan and the optical drive.
    • Peel up the foil tape between the fan and the optical drive.

  19. Use a spudger to move the gray display data and black speaker cables to the right. This will reveal a silver screw securing the fan housing to the lower case.
    • Use a spudger to move the gray display data and black speaker cables to the right. This will reveal a silver screw securing the fan housing to the lower case.

  20. Disconnect the orange optical drive ribbon cable from the logic board.
    • Disconnect the orange optical drive ribbon cable from the logic board.

  21. Peel up the small black rubber cover from the right side of the heat sink.
    • Peel up the small black rubber cover from the right side of the heat sink.

  22. Disconnect the black fan connector and two temperature sensor connectors from the logic board by pulling/prying up. If you have a MacBook Core 2 Duo Santa Rosa/Penryn/Early 2009, there is only one temperature sensor.
    • Disconnect the black fan connector and two temperature sensor connectors from the logic board by pulling/prying up.

    • If you have a MacBook Core 2 Duo Santa Rosa/Penryn/Early 2009, there is only one temperature sensor.

    • The heat sink in early 2009 MacBooks may look slightly different.

  23. Remove the following 6 screws: One 3 mm Phillips on the right side of the fan.
    • Remove the following 6 screws:

    • One 3 mm Phillips on the right side of the fan.

    • One 6 mm Phillips on the left side of the fan.

    • Four 9 mm Phillips securing the heat sink to the lower case.

  24. Hold the heat sink with one hand and the fan with your other hand, and lift the heat sink and fan assembly out of the computer. The fan is attached to the heat sink only with a strip of black felt tape, so be sure to remove both parts as a unit.
    • Hold the heat sink with one hand and the fan with your other hand, and lift the heat sink and fan assembly out of the computer. The fan is attached to the heat sink only with a strip of black felt tape, so be sure to remove both parts as a unit.

    • If you need to mount the heat sink back into the laptop, we have a thermal paste guide that makes replacing the thermal compound easy.

  25. Disconnect the three antenna cables from the Airport card, and the black inverter cable from the logic board. If you have a MacBook Core 2 Duo Santa Rosa/Penryn/Early 2009, there are only two antenna cables and the black inverter cable is in a different location. If you have a MacBook Core 2 Duo Santa Rosa/Penryn/Early 2009, there are only two antenna cables and the black inverter cable is in a different location.
    • Disconnect the three antenna cables from the Airport card, and the black inverter cable from the logic board.

    • If you have a MacBook Core 2 Duo Santa Rosa/Penryn/Early 2009, there are only two antenna cables and the black inverter cable is in a different location.

  26. Remove the following 2 screws from the Airport card:
    • Remove the following 2 screws from the Airport card:

    • One 3 mm Phillips from the left side.

    • One 8 mm (with a large 2 mm head) Phillips from the right side.

  27. Grasp the Airport card at its top and slide it toward the screen and out of the computer.
    • Grasp the Airport card at its top and slide it toward the screen and out of the computer.

  28. Use a spudger to disconnect the left speaker connector from the logic board.
    • Use a spudger to disconnect the left speaker connector from the logic board.

    • Lift the left speaker out of the computer.

  29. Disconnect the display data cable by pulling up on the black plastic pull-tab. If there is no pull-tab on the top of the connector, it may be helpful to use a spudger to disconnect this connector.
    • Disconnect the display data cable by pulling up on the black plastic pull-tab. If there is no pull-tab on the top of the connector, it may be helpful to use a spudger to disconnect this connector.

  30. Disconnect the newly-revealed hard drive cable from the logic board.
    • Disconnect the newly-revealed hard drive cable from the logic board.

  31. Use a spudger to disconnect the speaker connector and bluetooth connector from the logic board. If you have a MacBook Core 2 Duo Santa Rosa/Penryn, disconnect the PRAM battery cable. If you have a MacBook Core 2 Duo Santa Rosa/Penryn, disconnect the PRAM battery cable.
    • Use a spudger to disconnect the speaker connector and bluetooth connector from the logic board.

    • If you have a MacBook Core 2 Duo Santa Rosa/Penryn, disconnect the PRAM battery cable.

  32. Use a spudger to carefully disconnect the microphone cable from the logic board. You'll want to work from side to side, and slowly wiggle the connector out of its socket.
    • Use a spudger to carefully disconnect the microphone cable from the logic board. You'll want to work from side to side, and slowly wiggle the connector out of its socket.

  33. Deroute the microphone cable from the silver metal clip just above the right RAM slot.
    • Deroute the microphone cable from the silver metal clip just above the right RAM slot.

    • This metal clip may not be present on some Santa Rosa/Penryn models.

  34. Use a spudger to carefully pry the battery connector up and disconnect it from the logic board.
    • Use a spudger to carefully pry the battery connector up and disconnect it from the logic board.

  35. Remove the three 3 mm Phillips screws securing the logic board to the lower case.
    • Remove the three 3 mm Phillips screws securing the logic board to the lower case.

  36. Lift the logic board up from the right side, and slide it up and out of the computer.
    • Lift the logic board up from the right side, and slide it up and out of the computer.

  37. Turn the logic board over.
    • Turn the logic board over.

    • Peel the PRAM battery up from its location on the logic board, removing tape as necessary.

    • If you have a Macbook Core 2 Duo Santa Rosa/Penryn, the PRAM battery is not located on the logic board. Please skip this step.

  38. Disconnect the PRAM battery cable from the logic board and remove the PRAM battery from the computer.
    • Disconnect the PRAM battery cable from the logic board and remove the PRAM battery from the computer.

    • If you have a Macbook Core 2 Duo Santa Rosa/Penryn, the PRAM battery is not located on the logic board. Please skip this step.

  39. Pull back on the metal lever and slide the RAM chip out of the logic board.
    • Pull back on the metal lever and slide the RAM chip out of the logic board.

    • Repeat this process for the other RAM chip if there are two RAM chips currently installed in your computer.

Заключение

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

156 участников успешно повторили данное руководство.

iRobot

Участник с: 24.09.2009

1 Репутация

Автор 624 руководств

Комментариев: 12

Thanks so much for this guide! My mac wouldn't turn on after spilling some wine on it a few days before. After I followed these steps and let the parts lay out to dry overnight (after cleaning everything with rubbing alcohol), I put it back together and it turned on!! Thank you a million times!

tracy - Ответить

Double-sides sticky tape is very useful (to keep the screws together) on top of numbered post-it notes for the steps.

Joe - Ответить

The shop wanted over $700 ($600 for parts, $90+ for labor) to fix it, which I definitely wasn't going to pay, so I decided to fix it myself. I spent right at $150 for a new logic board, magsafe board, and RAM upgrades and delved into the depths of the Macbook. I followed every step of the guide closely and she started right up after reassembly. Great guide, thanks!

Landen - Ответить

Great Guide - i used zip-lock bags for screws and wrote the step numbers on each.

I've managed to replace a macbook 1,1 logic board with a macbook 2,1 (2GHz) one, and replaced a 4,1 on another machine (which looks interchangeable with older ones)

It is NOT possible to replace these older boards with a newer macbook 5.2 board because ALL the connectors are different, and the screw-holes are in different places.

jonathan ansell - Ответить

Managed to revive my years old dead Macbook! Glad I found this guide and helped me diagnose and fix the problem. (Only wish I would have found this BEFORE I started disassembling my Macbook. Half the beginning screws don't have a home now. Whoops) Overall great guide. The alternate pictures were great since they were more in-line with mine. Easy to follow, and everything turned out great. Thanks!

Nathan Linerode - Ответить

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