Введение
Use this guide to replace the MagSafe DC-In board.
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Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:
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Two 2.3 mm P5 Pentalobe screws
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Eight 3.0 mm P5 Pentalobe screws
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Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.
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Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case.
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Remove the lower case and set it aside.
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Remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.
This plastic cover wasn’t included with the new battery so I placed the original one back in. Was it supposed to go back in? This detail wasn’t clear since the original cover didn’t fit exactly over the newer battery connector. Plus any stickiness of adhesive that may have been there was gone.
Hi, any issues with you computer after a year? I didn’t put mine back in either…
Kevin, I forgot to place mine back in! How is your laptop doing without it?
Is it ok if I did put the plastic cover back in?
yes, it is okay
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Remove the following screws securing the battery connector board to the logic board:
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Two 2.8 mm T6 Torx screws
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One 7.0 mm T6 Torx shouldered screw
Top screw in this image was not a T6. I found that a T5 bit fit this one.
I can not put back top screw holding the plastic part. Help please
The colors of the circles marking the locations of the screws in the photo are reversed.
stop abusing
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Use tweezers to remove the small plastic cover located near the bottom right of the battery connector board.
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Remove the wide head 6.4 mm T6 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board assembly.
I lost this screw! How important is it? Will it be okay with just the 3 previously removed screws?
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Carefully lift the battery connector board up off the logic board.
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It is recommended to bend the battery cables just slightly, to keep the board suspended up above the logic board and out of the way.
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Grasp the Interposer with tweezers.
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Lift the Interposer off the logic board and remove it.
WHy to remove battery contact board? Replace can happen without it also, right.
You don’t want to work on a live system as you could damage parts
Dan -
you must lift it absolutely vertically, or it fouls against the locator pin in the corner- you can easily get the impression that it won’t come over the end of this pin- almost like it’s rivetted in. it isn’t. get a good grip on it with the tweezers in the centre hole & one of the sides, & lift it STRAIGHT up.
What happens if the Battery Contact Board fails?
Be extra careful when tightening down on the interposer. When I powered on upon completion, the battery was not connected. When I opened it back up, I saw that one of the little metal nubs holding the interposer in place had snapped off (the one on the side, not the corner). I was able to carefully tighten the wide head screw back in, watching the alignment, and the battery was successfully recognized. Hopefully the connection holds up.
So something similar happened to me. One the the metal alignment nubs snapped off, and when I went to screw down the interposer it started emitting a burning smell. Do you guys think I fried the board? There doesn’t look to be any visual damage but the computer wont turn on.
Geremy C -
Where can I buy a replacement interposer? I may have lost mine in the process of replacing the battery.
земля пухом братан, ты приехал
I really dont understand why to unplug so many parts if the SSD can be easily removed without all this effort. its not even connected to the battery..
I was reassembling and put the interposer back and when the battery contact board touched the interposer, there was a little spark. Should I be worried?
I skipped this step but still OK.
Warning to all: I snapped off the alignment nub as well, as I removed the interposer, and now it won’t start with a brand new battery. Any solutions to a “snapped nub” issue?
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Remove the following screws securing the heat sink to the logic board assembly:
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One 2.4 mm Phillips #00 screw
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One 3.4 mm T5 Torx screw
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Four 2.7 mm T5 Torx screws
Hi,
found 4 rubber spacers on the 4 2,5mm screws
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Lift and remove the heat sink up off the logic board assembly.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right side of the I/O board data cable connector up off its socket on the I/O board.
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Wedge the flat end of a spudger beneath the left side of the I/O board data cable connector.
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Gently twist the spudger to disconnect the I/O board data cable connector from its socket on the logic board.
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Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.
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Pull the right fan ribbon cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
Hey! You skipped a step!
What about the cable (don't know what it does) that runs right across the fan, interfering with pulling the fan out.
It's still in place in Step 14, but here in Step 15 it's magically removed itself, and can be seen resting luxuriously on top of the Airport card.
How do we get that outta there?
Like @victorgav mention, Just need a step before this one, which is to remove the cable that goes across the top of the fan.
Thanks for bringing this up! It looks like the guide was missing the iSight cable disconnection steps. I’ve added the missing steps.
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Remove the three 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the right fan to the logic board assembly.
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Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.
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Remove the three 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the left fan to the logic board assembly.
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Use the tip of a spudger to push the edges of the I/O board connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.
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Wedge the flat end of a spudger underneath the keyboard backlight connector and the logic board.
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Gently twist the flat end of a spudger upwards to pry the keyboard backlight connector up off its socket on the logic board.
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Grab the black pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.
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Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
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Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.
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Grasp the plastic pull tab and pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket.
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Use the flat edge of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.
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Grasp the plastic pull tab and pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.
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Repeat the previous procedure to disconnect the Trackpad ribbon cable from its socket on the logic board.
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Wedge the flat end of a spudger beneath the right speaker cable connector.
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Gently pry the right speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the SSD cable connector up off its socket on the logic board.
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Wedge the tip of a spudger beneath the left speaker cable connector.
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Gently pry the left speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board.
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Remove the nine 3.3 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board and MagSafe DC-in board to the upper case.
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Carefully grasp the corner of the logic board (opposite of the I/O ports) and lift the logic board out of the upper case.
When re-installing the Logic board, be careful not to trap any of ZIF cables under the board.
You’ll need to tilt the board up from the end away from the DC-IN board in order to get the IO connectors inserted all the way. Be careful with the little fingers on top of the IO connectors.
I had previously replaced the battery with the Newer Tech battery. The battery cable is not as flexible as the original battery, making the removal and insertion of the trackpad cable difficult.
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Gently push the edges of the MagSafe cable connector away from its socket on the logic board.
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Pull the MagSafe cable connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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Один комментарий
Great tutorial. I would add two comments. Firstly between steps 14 and 15 there is a cable that needs to be unconnected (see other tutorials where it is detailed) - it needs to be "walked" out, and you ned to remember to reconnect this. Secondly when putting the logic board back in be sure not to trap any of the connectors underneath it. It is a real struggle! I ended up undoing the 6 screws that hold the main battery assembly in and lifting this slightly to give me space and allow me to reinsert the ribbon cables on that side of the board. The reason I needed to disassemble my laptop was that it kept going into sleep mode, sometimes every few seconds. Apple wanted to charge £550 to fix it. I found the problem was with the micro-switch that detects if the lid is closed (it would work fine in clamshell mode). Switch is between the thunder port and USB sockets. Sprayed with contact cleaner, isopropyl and antistatic spray and dried with hairdryer, been working a treat since! Cost of a pentalobe driver!
If don’t have one of those neat project mats, then you can use small pieces of flattened blu-tack to hold the screws. If you arrange them in the shape of your mac book cover, and put the screws down methodically, you can get a one-to-one mapping of the screws to the correct screw holes.
Toby Thurston - Ответить
Or you can use an ice tray where you put the screws and the parts in separate bays in the same order as they come in the instructions.
timofej.se -
The colors of the circles marking the locations of the screws are reversed.
Homer Hegedus - Ответить
On my model A1425 these were all 1.2mm P5 screws. They all looked the same to me.
bigfish333 - Ответить
This is great! I used a small magnetic white board, and wrote on it to identify the parts as I went. This whole process, from the fast shipment to the great instructions to the complete, high quality, tool kit has been great. I’m typing this comment on my resurrected laptop. Thank you! Sue
Susan Greer - Ответить