iPad mini 4 LTE Logic Board Replacement
Введение
Перейти к шагу 1Follow the steps in this guide to remove or replace a faulty or water-damaged logic board in an iPad mini 4 LTE.
Note that if you replace your logic board without a paired home button, you will lose Touch ID functionality.
Parts of this guide were shot with a Wi-Fi model and as such the internals may look slightly different from the LTE model. The procedure is the same for both models except where noted.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Safety Glasses$3.19
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If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered. For particularly bad breaks, you may need to lay down two layers.
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Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the left edge for two minutes.
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Apply a suction cup halfway up the heated side.
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Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal.
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While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap.
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While holding the glass up with the suction cup, insert the point of an opening pick into the gap between the glass and body of the iPad.
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Insert a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
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Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive.
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If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.
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Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.
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Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.
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If you have a flexible iOpener, you can bend it to heat both the upper left corner and the upper edge at the same time.
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Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.
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Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera.
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As you reach the front-facing camera, pull the pick out slightly and continue sliding it across the top edge.
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Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera.
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Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, where the first pick just was. Slide it back to the corner to completely cut any remaining adhesive.
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Leave the second pick in place to prevent the corner adhesive from re-sealing as it cools.
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Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.
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Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.
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Reheat the iOpener and place it on the remaining long side of the iPad—along the volume and lock buttons.
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Insert a new opening pick and slide it down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
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Continue sliding the opening pick down the right edge of the iPad, reheating the edge using an iOpener if necessary.
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Leave the opening picks in place and reheat the iOpener.
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Set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad and let it rest for a few minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.
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Insert a new opening pick at the bottom right corner of the display, below the last opening pick you used to slice down the right edge.
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Rotate the new pick around the lower right corner of the device.
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Slide the pick from the bottom right corner along the lower edge of the device. Stop about half an inch shy of the home button.
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Insert a final opening pick at the lower left corner of the iPad, directly below the existing one.
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Continue sliding the pick at the lower left edge of the display toward the center of the iPad, until it is roughly half an inch from the home button.
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Twist the two picks at the top edge of the iPad to break up the last of the adhesive holding the display assembly in place.
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Lift the display from the top edge to open the device.
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Remove the four 1.2 mm Phillips screws over the battery/display connector bracket.
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Use the flat tip of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector from its socket on the logic board.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the display data connector from its socket on the logic board.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the digitizer cable connector from its socket on the logic board.
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Run the pointed end of a spudger between the looped tape and the plastic cellular antenna housing to make it easier to peel the tape up.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Tweezers$4.99
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Use tweezers to peel up the looped tape adhered over the upper component cable bracket.
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Remove the following four Phillips screws holding the upper component bracket in place:
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Two 2.1 mm screws
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Two 1.2 mm screws
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Press a paper clip or SIM eject tool into the SIM eject hole.
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Remove the SIM card tray.
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Use a spudger to disconnect the upper antenna interconnect cable from its socket on the logic board.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the rear-facing camera cable connector from its socket on the logic board.
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Lift the sensor cable connector from its socket.
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Disconnect the right cellular antenna from the logic board.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera press connector.
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Lift the Facetime camera ribbon cable out of the way and disconnect the headphone jack ribbon cable directly underneath it.
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Use the point of a spudger to lift the volume control cable connector from its socket on the logic board.
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Be careful to lift up only on the connector itself, not the socket on the logic board.
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Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the two lower antenna interconnect cable connectors.
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Use the tip of a spudger to lift each of the two ZIF connector retaining flaps.
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Peel the lower antenna interconnect cables away from the corner of the rear case.
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Remove the four 1.5 mm Phillips screws securing the Lightning port to the rear case.
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Use an opening pick to separate the adhesive connecting the lightning connector cable to the iPad case.
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Continue to slide the pick under the Lightning port cable until you reach the end of the logic board.
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Leave the pick in place to prevent the adhesive from re-adhering.
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Bend back the battery connector over the battery, out of the way of the logic board.
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Reheat an iOpener and lay it on the backside of the iPad near the SIM slot for at least two minutes.
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Once the adhesive has softened, carefully push the opening pick under the logic board.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Plastic Cards$2.99
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Once the opening pick has lifted a corner of the logic board, you can insert a plastic card under the board.
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Slide the plastic card under the logic board, toward the top of the iPad, near the cameras.
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Insert a second plastic card underneath the first one.
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Slide the second plastic card up to the top edge of the logic board.
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Lift up on the edges of both plastic cards to pry the logic board from the rear case.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Отменить: Я не выполнил это руководство.
7 человек успешно провели ремонт по этому руководству.
Один комментарий
This guide needs amending urgently before more people destroy their LCD displays by cutting through the tape holding the backlight to the LCD glass, or pushing a pick or other tool between the LCD glass and touchscreen glass.
The guide states:
Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display.
This is WRONG and will destroy your display. The black bezel is 5mm wide, this is beyond the 1mm wide adhesive and into the LCD display and backlight assembly. Do not insert anything more than 2mm down the sides of the display.
Any further than 2mm and, like me, you will be looking at a very expensive LCD display replacement.
Thanks IFIXIT.COM for publishing an incorrect guide that has destroyed my display.
