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Видео обзор
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Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
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Remove the two 6.7 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.
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If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Anti-Clamp$24.95-
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
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Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
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Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the top, and one on the bottom.
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Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
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Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
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Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
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Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
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Heat an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.
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Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
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Skip the next three steps.
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Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute.
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If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.
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Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
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Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.
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Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.
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Gently pull the right edge of the display down slightly (in the direction of the Lightning port).
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Insert your pick into the top-right corner of the phone.
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Continue pulling the display down (toward the Lightning port) as needed in order to make a gap large enough for the pick.
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Slide the pick to the top left corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.
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Pull the small nub on the suction cup to detach it from the front panel.
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Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
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Prop the display up against something sturdy.
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To access the screws in the following step, tilt the display by slightly lifting its lower edge.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Magnetic Project Mat$19.95-
Use a Y000 driver to remove the three 1.1 mm-long screws securing the battery connector bracket.
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Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
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Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally contacting the socket.
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Use a Y000 driver to remove the five 1.1 mm screws securing the logic board cover bracket.
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Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the LCD panel cable connector.
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Disconnect the digitizer connector next to it.
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Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.
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Remove four screws securing the speaker/sensor assembly:
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Three 1.6 mm Phillips screws
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One 1.3 mm Y000 screw
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Use the point of a spudger to gently pry up the top edge of the speaker.
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Flip the speaker assembly over—down and away from the top edge of the display.
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Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the top front of the display for 1-2 minutes, in order to soften the adhesive securing the sensors.
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Carefully slide the edge of your opening pick underneath the flex cable below the microphone.
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Twist gently to separate the microphone, while being careful not to strain or damage the flex cable.
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If needed, use the point of the spudger to finish separating the microphone from its notch in the front panel.
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Use tweezers to slide the small bracket straight up and off of the ambient light sensor.
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Use tweezers to wiggle the ambient light sensor and lift it from its notch in the display.
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Working left to right, slide an opening pick beneath the flex cable and underneath the proximity sensor + flood illuminator module.
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Gently wiggle and lift to separate the module from its notch in the front panel.
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Remove the earpiece speaker and front sensor assembly.
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Proximity sensor
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Flood illuminator
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The module must be positioned so that these components are not obstructed by any adhesive.
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Use a Y000 driver to remove the 1.1 mm screws securing the LCD shield:
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Three screws on the side nearest the display cables
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Two more screws on the opposite side
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Remove the remaining 1.1 mm Y000 screws from the top and bottom edges of the LCD shield:
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Two screws near the camera cutouts
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Two screws at the bottom corners
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Apply a little heat from an iOpener (or hair dryer / heat gun) to the back of the display, in order to soften the adhesive securing the display cables to the LCD shield.
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Insert an opening pick between the display cables and LCD shield.
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Slide it toward the bottom edge of the display to begin separating the cables.
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Stop when you reach the end of the first cable.
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Re-insert your opening pick, this time between the two cables.
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Slide the pick to the bottom edge of the display to separate the cables from each other.
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Peel the entire digitizer cable away from the LCD shield, and fold it aside.
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Insert an opening pick under the top edge of the LCD shield, and twist to separate it from the display.
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Grab the LCD shield by its top edge and swing it upward a few degrees.
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Using your spudger, press gently on the lower part of the display cable, pushing it through the cutout in the LCD shield.
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Raise the top edge of the LCD shield a bit higher, and feed the rest of the display cable through the cutout in the shield.
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Raise the LCD shield up at a higher angle, until you can see the rest of the display cable stuck to the back.
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Slide a spudger between the LCD shield and the display cable, and separate them completely.
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As you lift the LCD shield, note the metal prongs on the bottom edge.
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172 участников успешно повторили данное руководство.
23 Комментариев
I am a repair technician from California, and I use your company’s tools and I gotta say that I love them. Very sleek, and the powerful magnetic bits help me get the job done. I did 5 repairs yesterday and each one finished was a good feeling of satisfaction. In the future, if you guys decide to make some sort of in-depth manual for the newer iPhones, that would be great because diagrams are not only a great way for me to sharpen my own skills, but will help make training new techs a breeze.
Cheers all the way from Fresno!
Hi, I replaced the display independently, not in the Apple service, to my disappointment I found a message in the device that warned me that the part is not original, consequently the FaceID was disabled. Can you tell me about ear? Thank you
Getting a message saying not genuine is known issue. there is no workaround yet. as far as face ID not working, you need to check for tear on the flex as you probably damaged it during transfer. If it’s broken, there is no way to fix.
The Important Display Message can be removed, check here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLo0_p7O...
Ricky LV -
Great repair guide. My only issues:
1. There are no instructions for removing the metal panel from the back of the old screen (nor how to reinstall it).
2. There are no instructions for removing the old, black adhesive from around the edge of the old case (nor the much needed instructions for reinstalling the new adhesive without damaging it or compromising the purpose of replacing this adhesive). This info is also missing from the adhesive replacement page for the iPhone 11.
I was able to patiently work my way through both of these issues and complete the repair on an iPhone 11. Covering these issues as additional steps of the repair guide would be very helpful for future iFixers.