Введение
This is it, folks—the new generation of consoles arrives this week, starting with the Xbox Series X. Buried in a blizzard of buzzwords like “teraflops,” “true 4K”, and “ray tracing” is a new device—Microsoft’s statement on gaming for the next several years. It’s time to see what Redmond put out and what holds it together. It’s teardown time.
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The name might not be all that different from the last gen, but everything else is. Let's look at the spec sheet:
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AMD custom 8-core 3.8 GHz (3.66 GHz with SMT) Zen 2 CPU
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AMD custom RDNA 2 GPU (1825 MHz with 52 compute units)
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16 GB GDDR6 RAM
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1 TB of SSD storage (with an optional 1 TB expansion card)
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HDMI 2.1 connectivity with support for 8K video at 60 Hz, or 4K at 120 Hz
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4K UHD Blu-ray drive
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Next-gen Velocity Architecture
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Slim is no longer in—this year's flagship Xbox is rocking a fuller figure and, judging by that huge grille, packing some serious cooling.
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The Series X has a smaller footprint than the One X, even if you lay it on its side. But it's 60% larger by volume—let's hope your entertainment cabinet can adapt.
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More grilles grace the back of the console, along with the usual ports and a new storage expansion slot.
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In an excellent accessibility move, the ports come with some tactile identification in the form of tiny raised dots, making the finding-and-plugging process easier not just for the sight impaired, but anyone trying to reach into their TV cabinet without turning the whole console around.
Wenn ihr schon so cringy Wörter wie “schniecke” verwenden wollt, dann bitte auch richtig geschrieben ;-)
https://www.duden.de/rechtschreibung/sch...
(Ihr könnt diesen Kommentar nach dem Ausbessern gerne löschen)
Hallo Thomas, danke für deine Anmerkungen! Wenn du über den Text hoverst, siehst du über den Absätzen den Button “Übersetzen”. Da kannst du (wie bei der Wikipedia, nur viel einfacher) selbst am Text arbeiten und ihn verbessern. Wir freuen uns über jede helfende Hand. ;)
Lächeln, Fabian
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The new Xbox controller looks much like the last one, save for a new share button, an upgraded D-pad, and a USB-C charging port.
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We're not dismantling this thing just yet, what with a whole console to tear apart—but our pals at Creative Electron provide a different kind of inside look.
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With X-ray vision, you can see the four vibration motors (two in the handles, and two near the triggers), the metal joystick hardware, and all the beautiful cables and circuits doing the connecting.
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Compare this sameness to Sony's new DualSense controller, which is different from its predecessor in almost every way.
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And despite its flashy new design, the DualSense now shares a number of similarities with Xbox controllers. Maybe Microsoft and Sony are finally converging on the perfect controller shape?
Auf dem Kanal von “Ben Heck” gibt es einen Teardown des “neuen” XBOX Controllers. Dieser ist auch mit den Verbauten Chips und Komponenten zu gut 95"% gleich dem 2016er XBOX Controller.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Mako Driver Kit - 64 Precision Bits$39.95
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Two bright green T8 screws suggest an official Xbox welcome into the machine, and yet those screws are hidden under stickers and a trap door. Microsoft, do you want us to get in or not?
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Regardless, it won't stop anyone armed with our Mako driver kit. Spin the driver, pop a few clips, and you're in. So it's user accessible, but not User Accessible.
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We've got our crosshairs dialed in. Primary removal target? The beefy 130 mm fan. It's pretty get-at-able for cleaning—a big plus. If your X stands up tall, this is upward exhaust—so hopefully not many dust bunnies will nest there.
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Speaking of big fans, Microsoft went out of their way to hide Master Chief in here. A welcome Easter egg!
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You could remove this friendly Seattle Frisbee from the bottom just for a quick toss, but we're not here to play around. There are, in fact, more screws hidden underneath.
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The optical drive comes out next. And much to our amazement, it's the familiar old drive returning from the Xbox One S and Xbox One X—same model number and all!
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That said—just like the One S and One X—if you can de-solder the board from your original optical drive and transplant it into a new drive, you're back in business.
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In any case, one of these chips might be responsible for the intimate motherboard/optical-board bond:
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Microsoft MS0DDDSP03 ARM—probably the optical drive controller
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Texas Instruments TPIC2050 9 channel motor/laser driver
There is actually a small tab that can be lifted slightly which will allow the disc to be rotated off without any trouble.
i was literally thinking about that while reading this step lol, it clearly appears to twist off based on the shape of the holes the clips go in
Did it just now, there is a small tab to lift to the left by the usb board, lift it with a spudger and the base comes off with ZERO effort
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With the disc drive out, the remaining innards are contained within this massive assembly, which is mostly just heat management strapped to some boards. Teardown complete? No. I think we're just getting started.
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If you're wondering about the black rubber strap, its primary purpose seems to be isolation—from vibration, and noise. This extra bit of cushioning helps prevent any harshness from disturbing your gaming.
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Microsoft didn't waste any space inside this thing—check out how much volume is dedicated to the heatsink. Thermal design is a big part of any console creation, and it's clear the Series X is built to run cool and quiet.
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Mounted up front is one of two antenna boards inside the tower. The redundancy might serve to ensure a solid connection in either of the console's two orientations: tower mode, and awkward mode.
“unbeholfener Modus”? Echt?
“awkward mode” ist zwar eine schwierige Vorlage - aber die Übersetzung solltet ihr nochmal überdenken.
(Auch diesen Kommentar könnt ihr nach einer Korrektur gern löschen).
Was ist denn dein Vorschlag?
In the third image here, is that board for the wifi for connecting to the internet or is that for the Bluetooth controllers?
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Moving along to a box within the box, we lift the power supply away from the main assembly.
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This PSU's primary rail outputs up to 21.25 amps at 12 volts, which equates to 255 juicy watts.
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How well does this power brick stack with its contemporaries? We asked power adapter expert Ken Shiriff of Righto.com:
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Overall, it looks like a compact, high-quality power supply. They're not cutting corners to save costs. That said, the power supply doesn't reach Apple's level of density and complexity.
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The power supply uses pricier but longer-lasting polymer capacitors instead of electrolytic ones to filter the 12V output.
“Hauptbahn”?
Der Zug ist abgefahren ;-)
“Hauptschiene” ist hier der geläufigere Begriff.
Siehe z.B.: https://www.pc-max.de/content/news/netzt...
Danke! Wenn du an solchen Dingen Spaß hast, wie gesagt, wir freuen uns über deine Hilfe. :)
What exactly does it mean to operate the Xbox below 2,000m ? Is that elevation or power input? If I read it correctly, I believe it to be elevation. But why ? 🤔
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The Series X packs in a board sandwich, but unlike the iPhone X, this isn't to save space, but to make it. The aluminum block in the middle helps direct air between the boards and cool these hot boys. Here's what's on the first board:
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Microsoft M1139994-001 T6WD5XBG-0004 Southbridge I/O controller
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Texas Instruments LM339A quad differential comparator
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Realtek RTL8111HM gigabit ethernet controller
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CT08E 2020F1—possibly a Challenge Electronics sound transducer
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ON Semiconductor NCP186AMN080TBG 1 A / adj. low dropout linear regulator
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Nuvoton ISD8104SYI 2W Class AB audio amplifier
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Richtek RT6256BHGQUF and RT6256CHGQUF synchronous step-down converter w/ LDO
Why there is an “Xbox One” on the southbridge but no Xbox one Xbox one s or Xbox one x uses that kind of southbridge?
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Next, the meat of this board sandwich—the aluminum center chassis.
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Its main purpose is to soak up High-Performance Gaming Heat™ (hence the bright minty thermal compound for the SSD and storage expansion slot).
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Speaking of storage: the Series X uses an m.2 2230 NVMe SSD, namely a custom 1 TB SN530 by Western Digital. We heard it's super-fast PCIe Gen 4.0, too—this is high-end stuff!
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Let's take a closer look at the bits that give this SSD its oomph (ignoring a pretty boring back side):
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SanDisk 60662 1T00 1TB NAND Flash Memory
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SanDisk 20-82-10048-A1 NVMe SSD Controller
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Qorvo (formerly Active-Semi) 90430VM330 Power Management IC
SN530 is a PCIe gen 3.0 (that can not reach the advertised speed when in x2 mode) drive that does not look like this one, I think some prototype XSX went out with the SN530, but this is another drive IMHO…
Hey Roger!
This drive is labeled as an SN530, as you can see on the photo of its backside, and Western Digital mentioned that it has a custom ASIC to support PCIe 4.0. Looks like a custom solution!
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Since this SSD comes in a standard m.2 form factor, we popped in into our desktop workstation for a peep at its contents.
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If you were expecting it to be partitioned a lot like the hard drives found in prior Xboxes, you're way ahead of us.
Great Futurama call out. You are too neutral.
If I die tell my wife I said hello
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Peeling the final layers off this tasty thermal parfait we free the final board from the heat sink assembly, finding more
tooththermal compound and yet more chips: -
"Project Scarlett" 100-000000388 SoC (includes 8-core AMD Zen 2 CPU + AMD RDNA 2 GPU)
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Micron D9WCW 1GB and Micron D9WZX 2GB, for a total of 16 GB of GDDR6 SGRAM (
Super-GreatSynchronous Graphics RAM) -
Monolithic Power Systems MP86965Power Phase Modules w/ MOSFET
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Monolithic Power Systems MP2926 Multi-Phase Controller w/ PMBus Interface
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ON Semiconductor NB7NQ621M 12 Gbps HDMI/DisplayPort Level Shifter/Linear Redriver
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Texas Instruments TPS568230 Synchronous Step-Down Regulator
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With the motherboards gone, we take a moment to admire the full cooling system. What a cool cookie sandwich.
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On the left: Fins pull heat from the copper vapor chamber to be wicked away by cool air, pulled in through the bottom of the console by the fan.
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Next up—along with the copper plate, this metal frame acts as an EM shield. It also transfers heat away from the hot-tempered voltage regulator modules via thermal pad.
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The "CCS" (that's "Center Chassis") provides rigidity, aids in shielding, sinks heat, and maximizes board cooling.
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Finally on the far right, a Faraday-cage-like EM shield protects the other motherboard while allowing air to cycle through.
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This may be Microsoft's ultimate gaming machine, but by volume it almost feels like an air conditioner with a graphics card. Cool stuff.
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A relatively modular and repair-friendly design is partly overshadowed by some software barriers. Our tests indicate that both optical drive and SSD repairs will be problematic at best—which could be an issue if you want this thing to play games, or boot up.
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We're delighted to have two Master Chiefs living inside our Halo machine, but how will this tower of terror fare in the repair arena? Scroll down to read the verdict.
Hallo. Könnt ihr den Fan genauer beschreiben. Meine Xbox Serie X hat nämlich seit heute einen Lüfter der nicht mehr funktioniert… Ist das ein handelsüblicher oder Eigenbau?
Wenn deine Xbox so schnell nach der Lieferung den Geist aufgibt, empfehle ich dir, auf die Garantie zurückzugreifen.
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- Very few tools are needed to completely disassemble the console.
- All screws are standard T8 Torx fasteners.
- Once inside, the modular design allows for easy fan, optical drive, PSU, and wireless board replacements.
- The SSD is a modular, off-the-shelf part, but requires quite a bit of disassembly to access.
- Some critical component repairs are complicated by software locks.
Заключительные мысли
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47 Комментариев
Microsoft usually doesn’t make money on their Xbox consoles, since they already make enough money from their cloud service and selling data of Windows 10 users—in fact, they actually lost $125 for every original Xbox sold. But that’s good for the consumer, since we have what’s basically a beefy Zen 2/RDNA2 high-end gaming PC (in terms of hardware) at that price.
Ethan Z -
They probably make a lot of money with the games too, I'd imagine. What, with Halo Infinite and all
Alright, iFixit, we need help with something:
The blue “toothpaste” “““thermal paste””” you mentioned several times isn’t, in fact, thermal paste per se, but something similar actually called “thermal putty”. Yes, both are pretty much the same, but thermal putty, from what I understand, is a lot more viscous than thermal paste. Like a middle point between paste and thermal pads.
What matter about this is that thermal putty isn’t actually something the general consumer can buy. It seems to be only for industrial applications or repair shops. The problem here is that when we eventually have to replace thermal paste, you HAVE to use thermal putty for RAM, SSD and MOSFETs, since thermal pads, even of you measure the space between, may be inadequate. Thermal putty is applied because it feels uneven spaces a lot better. I tried replacing thermal putty with pads in an Xbox One X and it didn’t work because pads, even new, are too stiff and even.
Could you help us know what to actually use? You have the contacts. Help!
Hi Spudgeboy,
You’re right in that this stuff does seem to be something different compared to thermal paste and thermal pads, and it’s not easily available. The best alternative we found is a product called K5 Pro. It’s designed to transfer heat over larger gaps. When we can find a source for the “thermal putty”, we’ll post an update on the site!
Okay so after looking, the closest thing I could find to the blue or green stuff is TG-PP-10 from t-Global on DigiKey. It’s 10 W/mK, so probably a good bit better than the blue or green stuff which is usually 1-6 W/mK. IIRC other manufacturers of this stuff are Bergquist (now Laird?), Henkel, Dow Corning, but t-Global sells the most reasonably priced one for small quantities at just 28$ USD for 50 grams.
Common search terms that might be helpful are “thermal putty”, “silicone thermal putty”, “one part gap filler”, “gap filler”. among other things like that. Many of these are non-curing, so if you carefully scrape what you have into a little mound, you may be able to reuse it.
For all the talk of people saying they replaced the TIM on their console, laptop, GPU, etc, the idea that you HAVE to do it eventually seems greatly exaggerated. Sure it will help keep thermals lower, but I’ve never once HAD to do it personally and only console I’ve ever had fail is the original Xbox 360.
Sorry, but you guys are getting a bit sloppy. You missed the Wi-Fi module mounted on the “antenna board” as you call it.
The SSD is actually quite terrible and anything but super fast, as it’s DRAM less. Sure, the SN550 isn’t bad, but it’s far from super fast by anyone’s standards if you know anything about NVMe drives. 2230 NVMe drives are also very rare and only found in a handful of laptops. The only other company I can think of that makes one is Kioxia.
You also missed at least six power phases mounted on the opposite side of the main PCB and a couple of other components on the SoC side, although the latter is most likely related to the power delivery anyhow.
Interestingly the chipset PCB appears to have space for an eMMC chip and a CMOS battery, parts that weren’t included in the final product, as well as a “tweeter”, i.e. an internal speaker.
According to WD and Tom’s Hardware, the SN550 actually uses Host Memory Buffer (HMB), which allows the drive to utilize system memory (set at 64 MB for the consumer version, but we don’t know how much it is for the Xbox Series X). Also, I would think that Microsoft has done lots of optimization to make sure the drive performs as well as possible.
The tweeter in the Xbox 360 was used for making the startup noise when you pressed the power button. I would have liked to seen it present in this Xbox as well, but oh well.
Ethan Z -
My bad, it appears there’s support for two types of internal speakers on the chipset PCB.
The part marked CTO8E 2020F1 appears to be a tweeter/buzzer as well. Similar to this if you look at the + marking:
Those are likely to be hardware debug leftovers, or devkit leftovers. Extra hardware features are needed for game developer kits, like a CMOS battery, extra buttons and displays for example.
Tom Chai -
The speaker appears to be made by https://www.challengeelectronics.com/
It’s CT08E, not CTO8E. The 2020F1 model doesn’t appear in their catalogue though.
Thanks for the tip! It does look like a sound transducer. I’ll update the chip ID with the info.
The Xbox Scarlett items for their put around the new machine are to cost around each other and that is asta to cause a fire but if they're coming answering them it will cause a fire somewhere down the line in somebody's property why do they do something now I'm recall that Xbox Scarlett back in if they're done then do some about it now then there will be too late and where we stayed done something about it but Microsoft don't do nothing about it because they think about money first but I know this sounds a bit harsh but PlayStation always think however selves because they think before their lunch there machines anthonymarks1245@gmail.com
What? Are you talking about the videos of people blowing water vapor into their consoles to make them look like they are smoking?
RockL79 -
Is it just me or does the interior, ID, fit, finish of everything in here just look absolutely sub-par for 2020. It looks like a prototype. Like when are they going to put the finished parts in?
Not sure I agree it looks like a prototyp as such, but it looks like a poorly cost optimized design for sure. There are also a lot of space on the PCB for optional parts, such as eMMC, as well as a lot of measurement points, which you normally don’t see outside of PC motherboards designed for overclocking. I guess the next revision should be able to be a lot more cost optimised and most likely also somewhat reduced in size.
Can anyone confirm that the green panel at the top of the inside of the Box comes out easily? I want to have one manufactured in clear acrylic with LEDs along the side.
Rest of the IC Identification: https://electronicsprojectsandmore.wordp...
What is the HDMI port type? I need to replace mine
I am pretty sure its hdmi 2.1
RockL79 -
Airflow question. I have the Series X stood vertically in a book filled bookshelf, with around 4 inches open up top and a 5 inch open channel from the wall behind it open to one side. Would it be a bad idea to plug in one of those small flexible USB fans into the back port, and point it in a certain direction?
The goal being to prevent the hot air from bouncing off the roof of the bookshelf back into the machine, without cycling it back in through the bottom vent. Any cooling experts have any thoughts? How best to push the hot air away? would pointing the fan to the open side behind the books deprive air to the bottom intake?
Thanks in advance. Much obliged
It wouldn’t help unless its pulling fresh air from somewhere. But 5 inches in the back should be perfectly fine.
RockL79 -
Are you sure that blue stuff isn't toothpaste? Well, I guess I can answer that myself unless Microsoft thinks toothpaste is going to cool their beefy console.
How “beefy” can it really be? For the money, i’d expect to see a top of the line Intel processor. AMD is junk.
You’ve clearly not been paying attention.
Yeah you def haven't actually done any research into the performance of AMD Zen CPU's.
First off Intel is JUST NOW finally getting off 14nm process node while AMD has been at 7nm since the launch of Ryzen years ago. Second in benchmarks they have been outperforming Intel by a good amount in everything except gaming (due to single threaded performance) and even in gaming the difference was at worst about 8 percent in some games. The Series X/S and PS5 use Zen 2.
However AMD pulled ahead in gaming performance as well when the Zen 3 chips came out. Intel is just now starting to get competitive again with their 12th gen CPU's. Intel sat on their a** until AMD released Ryzen. Before Ryzen yes AMD CPU's lagged way behind, but that isn't the case anymore. There is a reason AMD CPU market share is growing so much so quickly. Especially in the very high end (ThreadRipper) and server/data center market (Epyc).
Sean -
The solution for the NVme location is RIBBON connector from eBay, on one side is just a NVme conector and the other is where you sit the full side Nvme, I have done it to my PC where the MOBO had NO SPACE for my NVme western digital with a heatsink block. Now the Nvme is sitting on the front of my case with plenty of air, thanks to the ribbon cable. 20 bucks and some DIY.
Is it a gen IV nvme cable? Last I checked they were only gen III.
You missed one of the most intriguing parts: the green light/glow at the top. At the Series X introduction everybody speculated it would be a real light. Microsoft’s renders also implied that. However, it’s just a trick, using a green piece of plastic below the top vents. One of your photos shows the green plastic, but I’d like to see it in more detail.
Hi
will I be able to repair the power supply, if it ever gets damaged due to power surge.
Or is there a site I can purchase one to replace. Thanks
“The Series X packs in a board sandwich, but unlike the iPhone X, this isn't to save space, but to make it.”
MAKE IT WHAT?!?!?!
What happened to talking about simply replacing the thermal paste? So just go ahead and replace it?
Xbox series x is made 100% better then playstation 5 hands down
Xbox One Series X S Schematics
Got a mate who decided that, "This isfreaking cool, but..." and, combining his use of drafting/machining software, a used 3D printing machine to make a mock-up, developed a billet aluminum case for his Series X internals long enough to allow the installation of a SECOND 130MM fan to the opposite end of the lot and just for the heck of it, managed to squeeze in a Cooler Master liquid cooling system (radiator with triple fans) as well.
You have to remember this is the silly bloke who built his ROG based gaming PC to literally have the motherboard with CPU, all normally air cooled with a fan, sitting in a tank of non-conducting mineral spirits with a pump causing the fluids to flow through radiators at the top of the whole affair. I think he could build an atom bomb with a wrecking ball and rubber mallet.
Excellently explained and very informative. I thoroughly enjoyed reading through this alongside watching the deep clean video included in your dust removal page. I am fairly new to disassembly, cleaning and repairing equipment so I got such a rush when I put this back together to find that a) it works and b) it's much quieter! I wonder what else in my household is in desperate need of maintenance...think I've caught the bug...
Overall, it looks like a compact, high-quality power supply.
I don't believe anything about "high-quality" of the power supply, as someone who replaced the power supply twice and has seen numerous reddit threads about people having the exact same issue (xbox does not turn on) and replaced their power supply.
And can't agree on the repairability sctore. What a pain it is to get that power supply out. I am good enough at this so that the whole process takes about 1 hour. Many people spend 2 hours or more (as can be seen here).
What size are the the black screws with the big flat head?
