Ответ на "Display Clamshell will not stay closed?"Did this problem suddenly appear or did it start after an unrelated repair or disassembly? The tension on the hinge screws is not relevant, the only possible causes are improper placement (or omission) of the magnets which provide tension to hold the screen assembly shut, poor alignment of the display assembly (which is pretty easy to do if you removed it, getting it right is something of an art), or other damage to the machine's top case or display which make the screen require more tension to close than normal. Those magnets only provide the minimal amount of force to keep things shut so you can easily pop it open with one hand . . . . it takes only a bit of crookedness to make them ineffective. This is assuming you are working with a Unibody Macbook Pro as it shows in the description of the post. If its a different machine the problem might be elsewhere. I've seen improper close issues on Macbooks, Macbook Pros, iBooks, and Powerbooks. While not terribly common such issues aren't exactly rare either. It...
Ответ на "video graphics and boot issues"Bill Gander : The instructions I posted were specifically meant for the later generation iSight models of the iMac G5. If you have an older iMac without the iSight camera the issue probably lies with bad electrolytic capacitors. Those caps are found both on the logic board and inside the power supply, and sometimes can be faulty even without appearing deformed. The first thing I do with those is always replace all suspect capacitors and that solves every problem present 90% of the time or so.
Ответ на "video graphics and boot issues"I've found this is a recurring and extremely common problem in iMac G5 iSight systems. Everyone always says "capacitors!" when talking about G5's, but the caps in these machines are almost always nice and flat. The issue is indeed in the GPU. In order to repair these machines, I've taken a similar approach to other BGA soldering related problems and gone with a heat gun solution. Oven/toaster/etc reflow will NOT work here due to the through hole electrolytic caps on the board which can NOT take solder reflow temp. Here are the steps I take: 1: Remove the logic board from the machine. iFixit of course has excellent instructions. 2: Remove the two small heatsink assemblies from the front and back of the board. They are held in by four spring-loaded plastic clips which can be released with a pair of needle nose pliers. Be careful! If you break the clips replacements are impossible to find, and those heatsinks are necessary. 3: Fold 3-4 layers of heavy-duty aluminum foil. Use this folded shield to cover the...