Yes you can replace your SSD with a 1tb model. However make sure you purchase one that is designed to work with that model as apple designed a proprietary connector for that model. I would recommend purchasing a SSD made by OWC, you can purchase it on iFixit here for the same price the manufacturer sells it for. Here is a step by step tutorial to replace the SSD.

Does the problem persist regardless of the image on the tv? If so it sounds like you are experiencing some dead pixels which are unfortunately not repairable. I would recommend contacting the manufacturer about a warranty as this does sound like a defect.

Sounds like issues happened while installing an operating system update. I know saying this is a little late for this issue but for future Please make sure to backup your computer before upgrading operating systems. Now that that’s out of the way lets see what we can do. First things first, lets try to get your data off that ssd. I would recommend using a data recovery tool (below are two links) as their cost (50-100) is much less than the 600-1500 you could potentially spend with a data recovery service. If your data is highly valuable go with the data recovery service, it will save you time and a troubleshooting headache. A list by Tech Radar on the best data recovery tools in 2020 '''Stellar Data Recovery Professional for Mac Tutorial''' Assuming there is nothing wrong with your ssd aside from weird formatting issues, you can run data recovery software without worrying about damaging your Data or SSD. However if the SSD is failing, you might only get a few attempts at this, and with each successive disk...

Sounds like you need to give that display cable a little push to connect it. complete up to Step 17 of this tutorial and then put your iPhone back together (do the steps counting down from 17). Alternatively, reach out to whoever repaired your screen and request their assistance since it sounds like they didn’t connect it.

Hi Mayer, Here is an excerpt of an answer to a similar question which I believe answers yours. “All MacBook generations after the original MacBook1,1 Core Duo 1.83-2GHz one will run OS X 10.7 (the original MacBook will only run 10.6.8). The three generations shipping in 2007 top out at OS X 10.7.5. The only A1181 MacBooks that will run 10.8 or later are the Early and Mid 2009.” What is the highest OS X I can run? Update (08/20/2020): Hi Mayer, Some research into this problem has clarified the issue and potentially solved it? Lets break down what would prevent you upgrading an old MacBook: The limiting factor for upgrading an old MacBook is its processors system architecture. Specifically the lack of support for SSE4.1. MacBook Models with a Merom intel core do not support this and as such are structurally incompatible with operating systems past 10.8+. Luckily, some research into the model of computer you have (MB404LL/A) states that it was one of the few early 2008 MacBook laptops with a Penryn CPU!...

Hi Eric, Unfortunately the retina displays are essentially a black box when it comes to replacement parts for them. The only solution based on your described problem is to replace the display assembly. If you do this yourself and purchase the assembly from somewhere like ebay, you could potentially spend as little as 300. Having apple repair this would likely cost between $550-$750. Which is pretty close to the price of a newer computer. I would still recommend taking the laptop into Apple even if you don’t plan on having them repair it, as they will always provide free diagnostics. If you are comfortable repairing the computer yourself, below is the link to a guide to replace the display. MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2015 Display Assembly Replacement Hope this helps -David

Hi Alan, In the interest of thoroughness, have you tried these troubleshooting techniques? 1 Plugging your Mac Mini into a different display. 2 Plugging your Mac Mini into a different outlet. Did any lights on the Mac mini itself come on? If so, I would suggest trying to boot into the recovery partition, or a network image. To this with your Mac Mini, Click the Power Button while Holding down the command + R keys, Keep holding down Command + R until an image appears on the screen. If you are able to boot into recovery, open Disk Utility and check your hard drive is mounted and recognized. It may be a good idea to try reinstalling your Mac operating system. If no image appears, Send it in to Apple, at worst they will give you a free diagnostic of the device. Hope this is helpful!

Hi David, before continuing reading this: Remove the battery as soon as possible and DO NOT CHARGE! If a device is exhibiting symptoms of water damage the first step should be opening the device up to just double check that there isn't water still in it, shorting something out. (I have opened a phone up that got wet and was dried months ago, and still had water in it on the motherboard.) 1) Open it up, if water is there disconnect all power sources (including battery if possible), 2) next remove the water, (see footnote 1) this can be accomplished by drying with a hair dryer (not on high), 3: next put in a bag with some dessicants (see footnote 2) for 2-7 days, reassemble and voila! Footnote 1: an optional but highly recommended step here is to pour 97% isopropyl alcohol in the device (but try not to pour on a screen, it can mess with adhesives) the benefit of this is the alcohol will often displace the water, meaning you now have a device that is now soaked in alcohol, still not ideal but way better...

Hi Andrzej, I am not sure if this will entirely solve your problem but it should at least answer a few of your questions. The metal panel that you removed serves as a heat barrier between the screen and the internal components of the iPhone as the backlight can generate a fairly large amount of heat. It also serves as an electromagnetic barrier to prevent the high voltages used for the backlight/screen from adversely affecting the phones internal components. I would suggest you reinstall it but thats up to you. As for why Touch ID isn't working, there are a few potential causes. It could be that the metal barrier not being there is causing interference with the cable, so I would first try reinstalling that. Then check the contacts of the cable, and make sure the connection points are clean (95% isopropyl alcohol and a q tip with some type to dry are great cleaners). It could also be that you tore/kinked the cable when reinstalling: in which case replacing the cable should fix the problem. If you have a...

Hi John, As a primarily self/internet taught electronics repair person, here would be how I would approach this. Assuming you are a beginner to this and don't have a lot of tech toys to troubleshoot this we will only use a multimeter (available for $5-$70 depending on how many bells and whistles you want, this one for $6.40 on amazonshould work perfectly fine). for a description on why you want a multimeter/why it is useful, see footnote 1. I will also assume that we don't have a schematic of the device in question because lets face it, most of the time you don't. Lets take your scenario, in which a customer (friend) tells you their device (a smartphone for example) doesn't turn on. first try to ask them what they think happened. If this is a device that doesn't turn on randomly, or if it was acting odd (i.e. erratic performance, not attributable to a single point of failure) before it stopped working, then odds are it is water damage, (to treat this look at footnote 2.) If it doesnt sound like water...