Hi There, With the back glass on this device, you need to use a lot of heat. I see in your post you tried this. We use around 60-80 degrees C on our heat pad then use thin metal cards to get under the glass. Once we have that in we switch to plastic cards and run them around the edge. The phone needs to be basically so hot you cant hold it. Hope this helps. Eric

Hi, Sounds like you may have a damaged display. If you have done a hard reset and the issue still persists you’ll need to get it replaced either via DIY or a professional repairer.

Hi Sara, In the repair shop, we use 99% isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush. You’ll need to take the controller apart and assess areas you suspect of having water damage. Corrosion usually turns blue if it’s old. From memory, the controllers use a T9 Security bit. You need to use this exact tool as trying other sizes/types can strip out screws and make it way harder to get into. The sooner you remove water damage the higher the chances of fixing the issue. Hope this helps.

Ive had this issue on the old Air 2. The way we fix this is by reinstalling iPadOS on there. If you can get the device into DFU and do a full reinstall that may help. Apple just released an update for most of their products. If you go into recovery, try to update it and see what happens. Do you have any way of reading the power draw while plugged in?

Hi, This is a common symptom of a damaged OLED panel. Are you able to send some photos? Unfortunately, there is no other way to fix this other than replacing the whole screen. On this model, the replacement parts are pretty expensive and if you want genuine parts they almost cost the same as a new device.

I have had this issue a couple times with the iPad Air 2. One of the methods to fix this is to do a full DFU restore. Im not sure why this works but it has done on several occasions. Let me know how you get on. https://www.hardreset.info/devices/apple...-ipad-air-2-wi-fi/dfu-mode/

I see this a lot. Just because there is no visible water lest in the device doesn’t mean there isn’t a puddle under a shield. Water damage is a extremely time sensitive repair and you did the right thing by acting fast. Unfortunately the device needed a ultrasonic wash in isopropyl or acetone. Nail polish remover might have been a good option at the time. If the device has been sitting for a week with even a small amount of salt water id say she’s done. As a last ditch effort i would do an ultrasonic wash anyway. Replace the screen and battery and see if you have any life. Id also try a new charge port and if you have a current meter, test to see what the device is drawing from the wall. Hope this helps.

We replaced the whole frame and front LCD Assembly (one piece) and it started working. If you know why that helped please let me know

There isn’t any software as far as i’m aware. You can type *#0*# into the dial pad and use Samsungs QC tools.

If the device was water damaged the board should have been ultrasonic’d no matter what. Having the device on could be causing severe damage. Even if you cant see water doesn’t mean it hasn’t gone deep into the logicboard At this stage i would take the board out, ultrasonic. Use new components to test. Battery, screen, chargeport. Upside is that the home button might still work i guess..