The 2 #00 screws in the A1379 are 3mm in length

For some reason, I was awarded “-100 A comment was marked inappropriate by the community and deleted. “ for further information which included a repair guide along with part numbers.

I have fixed hundreds of these things - so I DO KNOW what I am talking about.

30 years of APPLE ACCREDITATION gave me this knowledge on this particular item.

I have used CCC for years and years. It is an excellent program!

When upgrading MAC OS to a new version, I always clone a drive before starting the upgrade.

Make sure that this cap is discharged !!

Pointless making a repair guide as I’ve found that there is only one common failure.

You’ve already dismantled the unit … now look for a 22uf 50v capacitor in the primary circuit. Replace it and your unit will be working again.

I can give you very good guidance on fixing these.

They all suffer from a VERY common problem.

The heatsinks in the primary stage could well be carrying over 300V DC. It won’t kill you - but it will hurt.

Not all PSU discharge. I know, I have scars.

To discharge properly - treat it like a CRT and do it the correct way.

The preferable procedure and hold the keys down until you have heard THREE startup tones.

This is dependant on the age of your MAC.

Very early models have a button switch soldered to the logic board as well.

Mine has never lost connection. Batteries last for about a month.

Only had two problems with mine. Micro-switch replacement and battery cover kept falling off. Never did cure the latter! Battery usage was excellent though.

A really reliable machine. I still have mine and use it for video editing. Yes, a bit slow … but it gets the job done with no dropped frames.