jkgarrett17

My wife's MacBook Pro was dropped a while back. Ever since it has made a low humming sound that drives me crazy. It seems...

I'm fixing an A1095 for a friend. She had been having some software problems with the interent that I fixed. She also...

Perhaps someone can help me. I just disassembled mine and got to the very end. I can't see anything wrong with my home...

I've got an A1226/A1260 MacBook Pro. (I'm not sure which; the label has faded.) Maybe 18 months ago I dropped it on its...

Try booting to safe mode. If that doesn't work, call Sony and they will send you a new one.

It is the NVIDIA issue. I took it to an Apple Store instead of buying the cable, since that was free. They diagnosed it as such and are repairing it for free, as well as formatting and installing the OS on the HDD for free. If it's not fixed when it gets back, I'll update with more info.

Sounds like he wasn't much of a Genius. Technically he can't give you that advice, and if he does he is liable for it. (Or Apple is anyways, you can't do anything to him but you can to the company and they can to him.) If he made any disclaimer this wouldn't apply, but if he did you could try fighting it. Most likely you wouldn't win, but legally you have a case. As far as disassembling, if the residue is simply remaining liquid, then yes you can clean it off. But if there's any damage already done to the display or the glass you may not be able to repair it or would have to replace the part. I wouldn't be able to answer without actually seeing the phone with the screen off as to whether the display is damaged or not. If it seems like liquid is just moving around in there, I'd say your fine. But if it seems like the picture is changing, as if the electronics or the display is changing like when you press on an older LCD screen, then you may have a problem that cleaning won't fix. There's no harm in trying...

Why didn’t you simply use a sharp knife blade to carefully / gently slice through the adhesive, as suggested by various contributors? No pressure at all needed then.

Hi Rod,

My repair guide was written following the dissasembly/teardown instructions, so that is why I, myself, did not include using a knife blade for the repair.

As to why iFixit did not recommend such, I assume it has to do with the risk of accidentally cutting something other than the glue, or unintentionally scratching your device. Their iOpener kits are designed to break before damaging your device, and I can attest to the many times using iOpener tools and spudgers have saved me many regrets, when the tools broke because I was applying too much force, instead of placing a nice gouge in my device (or worse!) from using tools intended for other purposes, without such safety features.

The screws on the outside of the case are Pentalobe.

The screw for the SSD is Torx.

Both drivers are (now) on the list of required tools.

(However, my devices both have a T6 head, not T5. May have been after-market.)

Both of my A1398 computers (Mid-2012 Retina 15” and Late 2013 Retina 15”) have a screw that my T6 bit fits perfectly. If using a T5 screwdriver/bit makes your screw seem stripped, try the T6.

(The 2012 was purchased second-hand, and the 2013 was purchased from a dealer known for unauthorized upgrades; it is possible my screws were swapped.)

I am not aware of this part being sold separately. You might want to search eBay. That's where I find most of my non-iFixit supplied parts.

So sorry for the delay. I doubt iFixit will restock the part. I would recommend searching on eBay. You can still find new parts on there sometimes, or used parts with warranties. I replaced my lassr deck (not the whole drive) in approximately 2010, and I have not had a problem with it since. If I remembered the seller, I would refer you, but there are plenty on there selling both the laser deck assembly and the drive itself.

1. Your assumption is correct. I am unfamiliar with the seller. 2. IFixit is funded through sales. Parts are sometimes higher; plus, they are warrantied. Time is also a factor. I assume prices are not adjusted when there is no stock. 3. I am not sure. This is the only part I have had to replace in my PS3. You mentioned a whirring noise: possibly a fan, though unlikely. Or a gear somewhere (though most likely within the optical drive you intend to replace).

I took another look at my shopping history. It looks like the Laser Deck Assembly is this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Sony-PS3-Las.... (I am not endorsing the seller.) It seems not that there are two different lasers, but rather that a hardware chip is built into the Laser Deck Assembly that can read the PS2 disks. Again--it's been a while, but the more I look, the more my memory seems to be reinforced. Hope this helps.

I can't guarantee that this is your problem, but from my memory, it seems mine was doing the same thing about five years ago. And yes, I meant CECHA01, not H01. That's what I get for second guessing myself and reading upside down :-)

The secondary laser is for PS2 games. They removed it to decrease costs. Newer models recognize a PS2 disk using the BluRay laser, which is what you are describing with yours. But newer models give an incompatibility message, rather than trying to load the games when selected, and then being unable to due to the apparent hardware failure of the second laser. The part you are looking for is here: Sony PlayStation 3 CECHA & CECHB Blu-ray Drive, though it is unavailable. You can buy the whole drive, or just the laser assembly, depending on your skill. I found the laser assembly a little more challenging, but reasonably manageable, and bought it off of eBay.

Make sure you have truly have a BWC unit by checking the model number. If it's a CECHH01, you are safe. Not sure about the other BWC model numbers. Non-BWC units will still play original Playstation games, but not PS2 games, so that could be your problem.

If you do have the correct unit, if my memory serves correctly, there are two pieces of hardware on the Laser Assembly, one that reads BluRay discs, and another that reads the PS2 format DVDs. One can go out without affecting the other. So in short: yes, the BluRay laser assembly could affect your ability to play PS2 games without affecting your ability to play PS3 games. Again, if I remember correctly, I have replaced the BluRay laser assembly twice for this reason, though feel free to double check this with other users.

The wireless controller turning off is normal. Whenever you switch from the PS3's XMB to the emulation software to play BWC games, the controller will turn off, and you have to turn it back on. Nothing wrong here.

Comment back if needed

I have also updated the difficulty to moderate from easy.