My dad and i completely took apart one of these this summer on the driveway, did a whole paint job in a nice blue too. We have the briggs&stratton 18hp model. little older. You have done an excellent job troubleshooting the issues! i don’t blame you for just replacing parts, we felt like it, but it was fun to take it all apart too - the carburetor is the main problem with these engines . We watched some videos on you tube to lean about it. Now that you have replaced the pump, the fuel line, and inspected the fuel tank, the only possible thing it could be is that the pump is not getting power or not ‘turning over’ properly - meaning many liquid pumps need to be 'primed' - sometimes even a small air bubble in the impeller will stop the whole show. First what i would try is test that the fuel pump is working - as you said i believe you have, but its going to be 12v so maybe mock up a wire to it directly from the battery, and put the end of the fuel line in a gas tank, turn it on and off repeatedly, moving it...

Here is how to rest the controller to zero the left and right stick: https://en-americas-support.nintendo.com/app/answers/detail/...-to-reset-the-l-and-r-control-sticks-to-a-neutral-position-on-the-wii-u-pro Try it a few times, turn off the system and try it again, then turn on the system, let it load to the menu, and try again If that doessn’t work, i can think of two options, disconnect the battery inside for short time, then repeat the process. Finally, i had the same problem with my wii U Main (With the screen) controller, and the controller part inside had to be replaced from playing Splatoon too much :) - i got it for $10 and did it in 5 minutes. Try exhausting the resetting techniques first. Report back.

Tapy’ Tap Tap :) No problem, in general Oxidization on copper/lead/steel battery terminals is surface cosmetic, if left for say 10 years, then it could get a ‘little’ destructive, but really just some helpful taps with a hammer, or focused taps using a flat blade screwdriver/hammer where the seams should move. Next try giving it a good shoot of penetrating oil and leave it for a night - use a good brand like $6 to $15 bucks. Lastly get some battery contact spray, a good name isn’t coming to me now, but it will look like a deep red when you spray it on, and i mean alllll over the area, saturate it. Then it should last another 5-6 years before replacing the battery. PS. Gloves and Safety glasses are a REALLY good idea when doing stuff with corroded battery terminals, that stuff sucks in the eyes!

Most definitely Fix the charge port, however, first i would clean the contacts on both the charge cable and the macbook with good alcohol and cuetips. if the port is damaged on the laptop, it's no problem to change it out, and the part can be ordered for a reasonable price. You've come to the right place! There will most definitely be a guide here with your machine, or close enough to get you through it. any other details you can provide about the situation?

W O W Ultimate iFixit Blast from the past, i commend you for not throwing this out. when i was little i had a few walkmans in the early 90’s, and i’ll tell you all the things i did to make them work again. Ok you replaced the belt, is there a way you can ensure it has a good amount of tension? Not too much though. Then i would suggest making sure it’s getting the right amount of power, try different batteries. That was the problem 90% of the time. It doesn’t sound like a tape read head issue, but a good cleaning will eliminate that. with the age of this device, there is a possibility it is the motor, a drop of some good gun oil will free it if it’s guming up. Or you may look into finding a replacement small motor, albeit more involved. Finally, the button can for sure be printed! This is a perfect project for a 3d printer. you will need to do some measurements, and profile-it a bit, and likely prototype the suitable friction fit slot inside (assuming its like the ones i had, with a metal spigot - which...

Try plugging it in and leaving it for a night, then, try using a different power cord, if it takes AC directly. Sometimes you have to sort of “push and pull” the cells to get them to start taking a charge again. sealed lead-acid batteries are practically bullet proof. but if nothing works, gotta crack it open, and change the cell - find a electronics parts store’ - they will give you a reasonable price for the battery - Also remember you can sometimes join 2 batteries together to make the final voltage you need, if you want to Frankenstein it. like if it needs 12v - and you can only find two-6v cells, as long as the amperage is the same or more then they can be joined using a pigtail, i did this for mine a while ago. BUT you would need to read up on doing that properly to not cause a meltdown. errrrr, you can check the fuse with a meter :)

Apple very much solders everything to the board now, including the ram. I believe your only choice is to add additional storage via an external thunderbolt device, there are some excellent options for this. i would get something sleek, and with that interface you wont notice any speed difference.

There are ‘Laptop LCD Monitor Sites’ which may have the exact screen you need, but i would start by searching like this: Dell Inspiron 15R (N5110) Replacement LCD - find the exact model designation. and note the ‘Connector type’ [there’s only a few types] Then search for that Specific screen - Ebay will usually pop up first. Scrutinize what you are offered however, and you should find one for around $100 bones

Assuming it is connected properly and it’s powered on/warmed up Are you using windows? which version? Win8 / Win10? there is built in projection options with those. alternatively, it could be a setting within the projector itself, they are all so very different, you may have to ensure it is on the proper input selection. I would start there.

A friend of mine had a similar problem to this on his macbook air This may not be the case here, and i don’t want to jump to conclusions, but in the end for him, it was a build up of bad sectors on his SSD, and he had to replace it (ebay) In this case, it may be something much simpler, take the advice from dan, OR Have you tried to boot into safe mode? - Hold down Shift (⇧) after pressing power, and continue to hold until you boot into safemode OR - Read these other simple tricks - like holding down ' D ‘ for apple diagnostics https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201255