So I think this is a corrupt BIOS. You mentioned in the comments that it lost power during a factory reset… while I don’t know that this would need to interact with BIOS at all I wonder if it might have done that. As far as I’m aware there’s only two ways to fix this issue. The first would require you to hookup a BIOS programmer card to the BIOS chip on the motherboard. The second option is to buy a new BIOS chip. eBay usually has tons of these. Just make sure they match your needs. If you are comfortable with soldering and using a heat gun you can remove the old BIOS chip from the board and replace it with the new one. Of course there are some motherboards with dual BIOS and a toggle switch but this isn’t common on laptops. Since this is a budget laptop I would be pretty surprised to see it there.

It’s a bit tricky to tell from the photo but you should be able to solder this connection back together again. Soldering is relatively simple, but you’ll need a soldering iron, and some solder to do it. You’ll also want to cut back the wrapping on the wire as to make sure you can get a good amount of wire. As an alternative you could also buy a cheap wire connector and just splice the two sides together… this isn’t a great way to fix this issue though.

You mentioned that you had tried some possible solutions? What were they? This kind of sounds like a controller dead zone issue. Sometimes controllers' analog sticks don't return perfectly to the center, especially over time as they gather up dirt and other grime. This is where dead zone's come into play. They essentially add a radius offset from the center which makes anything within that radius effectively 0 and not able to register any action. Have you tried to tweak the dead zone settings in your emulator? They'll typically have one. Apologies if you’ve already tried this.

Got some info from you in the comments and we believe this to be a corrupt BIOS flash. I believe the easiest and cheapest way to correct this would be to replace the BIOS chip on the motherboard. There are several options online for replacement chips. This will require reworking tools, such as a heating station and various soldering equipment. If you've brought a repair tech in already you could probably get them to do this if you don't have the tools or are uncomfortable attempting the repair yourself. If you search for your laptop and BIOS chip on eBay there should be plenty of options to choose from. I don't have a suggestion on which one to pick. Just make sure they have decent feedback and seem legit like with anything on eBay. Good luck!

After viewing the repair manual for this particular TV it seems like this is likely one of two issues. Sony provides a chart that shows what the LED flashes mean. I would first check that the molex connector isn’t defective as this is likely the cheapest component. You can inspect it for bent pins but that most likely won’t tell you much. It’s not unheard of for these cables to just go bad over time. You might be able to wiggle the cable a bit while the TV is on and see if it gives you a display at all. The other, probably more likely issue is that the LCD panel is dead/dying. These aren’t worth the time to replace and are generally too costly to do so anyway. Given the age of the panel this wouldn’t be all that surprising. You might be able to source a new panel but given that 55’’ 4K HDR TVs are like $300 I don’t really think it’s worth your time or the cost of a new panel.

I've heard that over time the rollers in the disk drives can become worn out. You might need to take the disk drive out and see if that might be the case. They can also just be really dirty so you might just clean them if they. There should be plenty of guides online for this. Here's an iFixit guide showing how to remove the drive PlayStation 3 Blu-ray Disc Drive Replacement

So I got my adapter for SATA to USB and plugged in an external hard drive which allowed me to update the bios… this is where it gets kinda funny. I think at some point I must have changed the boot setting from UEFI to Legacy which for some reason makes the drive not show up in the BIOS. This was likely due to the fact that the internal drive wasn't bootable (coulda sworn I installed Windows 10 and tested it on my desktop) I switched it back to the proper setting and realized that the drive, in fact, was not bootable. So I set up a USB drive Windows installer and installed Windows on the drive. Everything is working fine now. Interesting that you don't seem to be able to update the BIOS from a USB drive… good to know for the future I guess.

There’s not a lot of useful information in your question. You left out some details about the vehicle’s specifications and a few other details. Based on the information that you have provided I believe the bolt you’re looking for is M14x2x120

I was able to fix this simply by replacing the old screen. After looking at it a bit more I believe the backlight had been broken by some of the damage sustained by the device. Unfortunately, it’s difficult to get a decent screen replacement for these things. There are a lot of different Chinese manufacturers with varying degree of quality that seem to be flooding the market a bit. The screen I purchased was from eBay and the seller assured me it was OEM. I do not believe it is though. My replacement screen has obvious backlight issues as well as green discolorations throughout that are especially noticeable on white backgrounds. This is with little use on the display with no heat on the display besides from just turning it on. Unless you can buy these things very cheaply I would just stay away from Surface products in general. They seem to suffer from the same issue that the original Xbox 360s had; cheap manufacturing. I feel really bad for anyone who buys these things new. For the $2700 price tag this...

Couldn’t figure out what exactly blew on the speakers. My best bet is that it was the voice coils. I have since replaced the speakers and the Sonos Play:1’s are working fantastically!