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Вопросы
It's been a while since I did a phone repair but it's time to replace my iPhone SE 2020 (2nd gen) battery. There are so...
Читать далееWhile scraping the glued side of the cable off of the board, I hit the touch-ID connector and scraped it off. I'm dying...
Читать далееI've been asked to upgrade this iMac 21.5" 2013 (model A1418) with an SSD because it's slow and I have to say it's not...
Читать далееI took an LCD assembly from an A1932 2018 and mounted it on a A2179 early 2020. I was led to believe these are...
Читать далееSeveral years ago I opened up an iMac (either A1418 or A1419, I don't remember) and I found NO PCI-e (12+16pin) connector...
Читать далееI don't love working on phones but I have a client who wishes to have his iPhone 11 screen and battery replaced. I'm...
Читать далееI have an iMac that is not powering on anymore. After removing the display to inspect the interior, I noticed white spots...
Читать далееAre there any anti-repair boobytraps in this device? Touch-ID of course is probably coupled with logicboard I'm going to...
Читать далееSo this MacBook Pro 15" touchbar 2019 has a faulty touchbar which flickers green and black. After opening up the MacBook...
Читать далееSo I have an iMac that won’t enable WiFi (greyed out) in Big Sur. I booted externally from on old High Sierra external SSD...
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Ответы
Alright, it's confirmed. I've mounted two other SSD's with High Sierra and Catalina pre-installed, both same issue. I have learned something that I did not know before: EFI lock will prevent hard drive replacement!
Читать далееThe keyboard connector is very close to the battery. Open the flap carefully on the keyboard connector and slide out the flex cable - then slide it back in and try to push it deep in the connector and close the flap again. Power on your macbook and test it. If that didn't work, remove the flex cable and inspect it for tears or damaged pins. Also inspect the connector on the motherboard for damage.
Читать далееHi Misha, Layer 2 is a acryl (or acryl-like) layer. The top pushes against the edge of the frame where the LCD rests on. The bottom pushes against the backlight bar. You can't simply put this layer down and move it into place like all other 4 layers. This acryl panel needs to be bent vertically. I recommend bending, pushing the top edge on the frame and then the bottom edgea gainst the backlight. Hope that answers your question. But I have a feeling you didn't mean the acryl panel layer although you refered to by mentioning “layer 2” which is the acryl panel. Edit: No, the second layer (the acryl panel) does not have any adhesive.
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@nuru9 same here, had to pry the plate off the rubber
What about the constant repeating message that “could not check if battery is genuine”. Does it stop showing up on the screen?
But thats the CPU temp sensor, not LCD