Jesse Hooton

I have a customer that dropped off a studio because it had died. She used it the night before and went to use it the next...

I have this used Dell desktop I’m trying to use but it’s protected by a BIOS or HDD password. Is there any way I can reset...

I have a customer with some eTalk flip phone from verizon and it is currently having an issue where it automatically...

Are you certain it’s the front microphone on the proximity sensor? There’s a total of 4 mics in the 8. Two at the bottom attached to the charge port, one at the top attached to the proximity sensor, and one by the rear camera. You also may have received a defective proximity sensor assembly depending on where you sourced it from.

As far as I know the proximity sensor shouldn’t effect the front camera but they are attached to the same assembly. I would replace the front camera assembly. Just be aware that when you do change that assembly, you do lose TrueTone.

I would maybe try a factory reset next. I’m wondering if optimized battery charging is having an issue. Do you use a lightning cable or wireless charger?

If the X and above don’t have an OEM charge port or can’t communicate with the charge port properly, it may lead to an issue like this. Try replacing it with a premium port from Mobile Sentrix.

Yes components with TouchID or FaceID are tied to that specific motherboard. So when you swap over the donor board make sure you transfer it’s associated home button to maintain TouchID.

As far as I know there isn’t any programmer available for programming TrueTone on the iPads but if the LCD is fine you might be able to find someone who can refurbish the display by just replacing the glass. Do your research on whoever you choose to do the work to make sure they know what they’re doing. Just be aware that it may take a couple weeks or more. Or just take it to apple.

What do you mean by it’s not charging? Is the device powered on and not taking a charge? Or is it completely dead and not turning on no matter how long you leave it on the charger for? You can purchase a USB ammeter off of amazon that I’ll link so you can try to diagnose the issue yourself. https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Multimeter-Multifunctional-Electrical-Capacity/dp/B00J3JSEG6/ref=sr_1_13?crid=...-13 Plug this device into the charging brick then plug in the lightning cable to the device and connect to the iPad and tell us what readings you’re getting. Pay attention to the numbers in blue. The numbers in red is the voltage coming from the charging brick and the numbers in blue represents the amps or how much current the device is drawing. Also let us know what state the device is in meaning it boots up to the lock screen or if it’s completely dead. You can also connect it to a computer and open iTunes to confirm it’s not in DFU mode. If it’s in DFU mode the computer will detect it and say the device will...

The 5 series of iPhones like the iPhone 5/5C/5S/SE are notorious for having delicate displays and often have display issues after battery replacement, even if you don’t disconnect the display and I speak from experience. Go ahead and order a replacement screen kit from iFixit and you should be good.

I would take it back to wherever you had it fixed to have them address it. I’m wondering if maybe your battery has started to swell which would typically cause the left side of the screen to pop up. You could try to pop it back into place but you run the risk of either damaging the display or if the battery is in fact swollen, you run the risk of shorting or puncturing the battery which can lead to severe burns as seen from the Note 7 fiasco.

If TouchID is working on the aftermarket screen then it should be pretty obvious that the refurb display is defective, which does happen from time to time. Contact the supplier and get them to warranty it.