From the description, says digitizer screen to frame. As for batteries, I typically use double sided tesa tape. I’ve done surface pros using tesa tape and it works out just fine btw. "This adhesive film secures the front glass digitizer screen to the frame of your Microsoft Surface Pro 1/2 13.5". Complete your replacement of the front glass with new adhesive. There is no measuring, cutting, trimming, or shaping needed with these custom cut adhesive strips."

Quick google video search was easy enough, i’m assuming the model is correct but not 100% sure as it could span multiple series of laptops, but general idea is same for all unibody laptops: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=okGj8bnF...

From the looks of it, might have some bad leds or led backlight strip. Replacement process is lengthy and tedious but doable, here is a video demonstrating the process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fHhx12Ax...

Next step, would be to use a flashlight and see if you can see any picture, assuming tv is staying on after chime and possibly audio is heard while using the remote arrow keys. Best case scenario its bad led strips.

Can you provide photos of the affected area?

Next step in diagnostics is to see if you have picture at all, by using a flashlight and shining it through after display goes dark. Also does backlight come back on momentarily as you turn tv back on?

If you can source the part or if it’s a standard usb 3 printer port, then i’d say the job can be diy’d with good soldering skills for under $50, using low melt solder. Idea is same with all through-hole components, mix the low melt solder into joints and pull connector out. Hot air station helps but is optional. All standard ports i’ve seen are 5-2-2 pin layout with 2 support legs, all fairly close together.

Yes, the port can be replaced, but it will cost you, as Microsoft doesn’t sell parts for this device and used a proprietary mini displayport connector (2 rows of 10 pins vs 2x 6+4pins sold by mouser/digikey). Only option that i found, was to pull a port from a donor board. Cheapest compatible board was $50 so not the most cost effective repair but i already got the bad connector off, using low melt solder, so might as well finish the job and not gimp this device. Hope this info helps someone, just very surprised that parts were not available.