Students: Read this before claiming any of my pages.
If you are part of a student group and claim one of my Device pages or Wikis, please respect these guidelines:
- Only change content that needs to be revised. Leave working content alone.
- If the original content is mostly usable, it's best to do a revision with the original content and formatting preserved as much as possible.
- If any information is removed without replacement, verify it is inaccurate if known by others. If there is not enough time to verify it, please understand I did so personally before including it.
- If you find any content you can't verify but think it needs work (Ex: Information on how to use a certain game controller on PC), revise it in its current form.
- If such content is included, only replace the parts that need replacement - do not remove it or change everything. I've personally tested it and know it to work.
- Do not change the following:
- Non-patrol reputation (This is set high enough to prevent problems for me and established users who know what they are doing).
- TOC inclusion (Note: If removed for editing, add it back. This is fine if you need to remove it for the project term).
If these guidelines are respected, I do not have a problem with student edits. I know how I handle it is more unconventional then other pages since I will centralize common problems (and their workarounds if I know what to do) to make the information easier to find.
Regarding major changes beyond normal editing: If you are considering a major change, it's best to err on the side of caution and use the existing formatting and replace that section. In most cases, the content is (generally) laid out in such a way that the only requirements are a rewrite on the section that is being changed. In most cases, there is no need to completely rework how I wrote the original content.
CompTIA A+ CE
PC Pro Certification
Marchman Technical School Certificate of Completion
School and Experience
- Sunlake High School (Dual enrollment)
- Graduation: 2014
- Marchman Technical Center
- Graduation: 2014
- Linux (I often have a second dedicated Linux computer)
- Intermediate board level repair and data recovery
- Gaming (Limited to older games without excess DLC and microtransactions; PC only since Xbox One and PS4 launch)
Разборки, над которыми я работаю
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Инструкции с моим вкладом
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Guides I've Helped Translate
How long will my battery last?*CoconutBattery data* While I am not giving up on this notebook over the battery as I can replace it when things get worse (a...
Is it possible to test the SSD cache? (Seagate SSHD)I retired this drive from my Latitude a long time ago due to performance issues that were concerning since I had a WD Black 7...
I need a battery pinout for this system.Since I have largely given up on my A1181 (Late 2006) since the charge issue looks to be extensive and it needs other parts r...
When do I need to worry about the hard drive cable?I have a 2011 13” MacBook Pro, which replaced a 2006 MacBook. I did not need to worry about the drive cabling on the 2006, bu...
How can I spot a fake online?I know the only way to get a new one that isn’t fake is to buy it through Apple, but the machine I am getting is on the older...
Does the A1048 USB ports work well with flash drives?I currently use a G4 era keyboard with my iMac G5 ALS and I’ve had issues with a specific type of flash drive I use a lot of ...
Can I fix this without wiping my phone?This has happened for a while on and off but for the last few weeks it happens almost every other day. In lieu of wiping the ...
Why is the laptop shutting down?**NOTE: The seller included a 45W charger and did not make right on it. I need to get a 60W unit - I know.** I’ve had this Ma...
(Dell OEM) Radeon 7570 1GB fan noise OR where can I get a new GPU fan?Video of the sound (Wear headphones): https://photos.app.goo.gl/6sGcSj7ER1Kj8t... I can clear up the sound temporarily when i...
(Vizio M220VA) Vizio TV has display issuesThis has gone on for ~8 months and the TV has held up so far, but I’ve always had some concern this could be a sign there’s a...
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Answer to "Can I add more memory to my HP Stream 11-r010nr notebook?"The SSD is soldered as it is eMMC. The RAM is also soldered and most of these only include 2GB of RAM. The problem with these is they’re 8.1 with Bing systems and they have special requirements in terms of specs that Microsoft expects to get the discounted licence. They need to have 32GB or less for storage (type doesn’t matter, but most use eMMC) and less then 4GB of RAM (most use 2GB to be safe). You will need a laptop with an actual upgrade path if you want to be able to upgrade anything.
Answer to "Part of my keyboard backlight isn' t working?"I would be more concerned about killing your keyboard at a physical level over killing half the backlight. The backlight isn’t essential and you can live without it, but if the keyboard dies you’ll need a palmrest (keyboard is riveted in on this model) to fix it. See how your keyboard lasts for at least the month from when you did it. If it continues to work, live with the damage and consider yourself lucky. If it gets worse, you need a keyboard or palmrest. The stuff they put in nail primer isn’t much better then acetone in the amount of raw damage done.
Answer to "Purchased battery in 11/2017 have not yet installed it 6/2019"Batteries don’t age well without being charged continuously. Try charging it without installing it and see if it works or not and how badly the capacity is affected. If the impact is minimal, it may be okay. If it’s severe, get it exchanged.
Answer to "What is easier to replace? The expansion port or the motherboard?"The issue with replacing the port is it’s mounted with SMD soldering so you can’t easily replace it. Unless you have a donor secondary board and really good soldering skills, you will mess up the connector if you even try removing it. That said, it’s rare for the connector to fail in general (unless you spilled Mountain Dew on the port). Try doing what @mayer suggested and look for burned resistors and capacitors. Unlike the connector, it’s practical to replace SMD parts on that level. It also wouldn’t hurt to protect the connector with kapton tape to err on the side of caution.
Answer to "TI-30XS calculator repair in the USA"The screen is installed with hot bar soldering, so there’s no nondestructive way to replace it. You can replace it on SOME color graphing calculators, but any B&W model probably uses a hotbar. It’s almost certainly a limitation based on what is available with how common it is. I’m sure you could use a ZIF daughterboard and hotbar the display onto a subassaembly, but that’s not something the manufacturs will likely ever do. Not even good ones like the TI-84 Plus are modular but the CE is.
Answer to "Laptop not booting up after about a week"Is the charger you got a knockoff? A lot of those things fail for no good reason and in some cases, they take out the motherboard because just dying on it’s own isn’t good enough for many of them. Been there multiple times when I get the notebooks pre damaged by these things or they were unwillingly forced on me by people who don't know better. If you got an aftermarket, stop using it NOW before it makes the problem worse. Find a genuine one (even if it’s used) and try to see if that solves the issue. If it still doesn’t boot, then you got a knockoff that wanted to kill a motherboard for no reason. You’re gonna need a board repair on this because it uses eMMC.
Answer to "Updating from MacOS 10.7.5 on early 2011 MacBook Pro"High Sierra is the most modern version I’ve been able to tolerate right now. The problem with Mojave is APFS isn’t optional (even on a spinning drive) so you end up using a filesystem that’s not designed for the drive it’s being forced on. If you still find a way to opt out, Apple won’t provide system updates. You either become an APFS user against your will or you won’t get updates. Stick to High Sierra for the time being. It’s not much less feature rich then Mojave anyway, so you aren’t losing much. I got my installer from the dosdude1 patcher. Mojave sits on my drive uninstalled since I grabbed it thinking I may do it sooner then I thought I would initially. I don’t think so - at least until Apple realizes that APFS is not for spinning drives and these should default to MacOS Extended (Journaled) AND provide a easy APFS opt-out for those of us who do not want it.
Answer to "Will the logic board from a 13' 2012 MacBook work in an early 2011"From what research on compatibility I did, it looks like it will work, but you probably also want the newer WiFi card to get BT 4.0 out of the system. There isn’t anything specific on chassis catches, so you may want to check the board layout yourself against a 2012 board to confirm all of the holes line up 100%. It looks like the card iFixit sells is the BT4 one for both machines. You will also need to replace the heatsink as the 2011 one won’t carry over to the 2012 board. Build this into your estimate at a averaged price since it may not be as cheap as you want it to be. When I got mine (Late ‘11 with livable cosmetic issues at a discount), I was told that there is no real performance gains with the 2012 i5, so you probably want an i7 board to make the bump meaningful. Without that, the only expectation I would hold if you do this is to only benefit from native Mojave and Catalina support without patching the installer. In addition to that, I looked at the boards for the 2012 and 2011 and the holes match u...
Answer to "Is my Battery OK?"Is it one of the external 3 cell 18650 HP’s? Even when they were new, they’re known for bad battery life on anything other then a Celeron model from Walmart. This is one of the few laptops left you need a 2nd battery in your bag to not need to keep the charger on you. The problem with these is the battery is too small to be long enduring on systems with good hardware (i5/i7 or A8/10 APU). As soon as you drop to 80% capacity, the runtime goes out the window as well. The p263nr is one of the worst ones with this battery since you’re combining a low capacity battery with an A10 APU. On top of a high end APU, you’re putting that battery onto an AMD notebook, which is historically known to be more power hungry then Intel’s high end chips. Since the battery is still new, you have time to calibrate it and get a realistic metric of what to reliably expect for 1-3 years. I’ve detailed the process here. A lot of the information applies to older laptops that have seen some use, so some warnings may not apply to you.
Answer to "Drilling stripped screws out"Drilling isn’t for the feint of heart - be careful you don’t damage the PCB. However, it can be done if you take precautions. Cover the PCB with kapton tape so you can shake the shards off and blow on the board for good measure as well. What you need to do is drill the screw out until it looks like the top is compromised - do 2-3 20-30 second runs (5-10 for mobile devices) to ensure it is truly broken off before going to the big bit, because you need this to break off cleanly to avoid damaging the PCB. Once the head is compromised, take the bit one size up and drill it until the head breaks off. Once you see it snap, stop or you WILL do damage to the PCB. If you use a modern 20V Lithium drill, cut the times in half - I still use a NiCd drill. That’s all there is to it. You will never be able to get a screw in again (most likely), but you can remove the board.
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