Chris Green

I've had a broken 80GB classic buried in my closet that I found yesterday (I think it came with a lot of broken iPods that I ...

Hello, I recently dug up my old Squire Mini-Stratocaster guitar. It's been sitting in my house's attic for around 10 years. I...

Hello, I have a Power Mac G5, and it isn't producing any sound (Out of the Internal Speaker) I noticed that there appears to ...

Earlier today, I picked up a broken PowerMac G5 from a flea market. It's a dual 1.8Ghz model from June 2004. (A1047) The unit...

Hi, I'm about to buy a second-hand Black MacBook Core Duo to replace my PowerBook G4. It's used, and has a non-functional opt...

Recently, my monitor died. It refused to turn on, and after some research, I traced the problem to capacitors in the power su...

Hi, just recently, I bought a used PS3 with the YLOD to fix, jailbreak, ect. The console is a CECHB01 (All Black, 20GB, Backw...

So a few days ago, the lock button on my friend's iPhone 3GS stopped responding. When pressed, it does nothing. This makes us...

The console's have noteable physical differences, but the controller port appears to be the same. Will They?

Hi, I've had my mac mini since late October 09' and after a month or two, it started acting up. It might boot to a grey scree...

I've seen this happening with a Phantom 3 standard before. For me, it wasn't the battery or the cable, but the actual USB connector on the controller. It seemed like they didn't do a great job in the factory soldering the USB connector to the printed circuit board that it sits on. Once you've ruled out that your issue isn't a bad USB cable/charger, you may want to consider this. If you look at this picture, you'll see that the USB port is attached to a little circuit board that is wired to the rest of the controller. I was able to repair the connection between the USB connector and that board with a fine-tip soldering iron, if you're handy with a soldering iron you may want to try the same. If you aren't experienced with a soldeirng iron, I was able to find a replacement part on eBay (but nowhere else so order soon!). Good luck!

You can paint the heat spreader, but there are a few things you'll need to take into consideration. First, a coat of paint will probably make them less effective at removing heat from the memory sticks. Second, you should be extra careful to avoid getting any paint on the electronics or the connector. Ideally you should remove the heat spreader before painting it. If you can't remove the heat spreader from the memory to paint it, then you should cover any exposed circuit board before painting. Some paints are conductive, and that can wreck havoc on electronics. You also need to be careful not to get paint on the electrical contacts where the RAM is inserted to the motherboard. Honestly, I wouldn't recommend painting the sticks because aside from appearance you risk damaging the memory at worst and degrading it's thermal performance at best. That being said, it's definitely possible to do.

Are you looking for the actual headlamp assembly or bulbs? The bulbs should be available at any auto parts store, but the actual headlamp assembly seems to be more tricky. The GM part numbers are GM2502316 (driver side) and GM2503316 (passenger side), but I can't seem to find them in stock at reputable parts sites. I usually shop at RockAuto for stuff like this, and I'd be willing to bet that they'll restock eventually. There do appear to be a couple listings on eBay if you'd like to go that route. One thing to note is that all of the parts I've seen online are very pricy. Even though the XLR isn't a very common car, it may be a good idea to call up some of the local junkyards and see if they happen to have one of those cars that you can take the headlight assembly from. I've found that to be a great way to save money on otherwise expensive or hard-to-find parts.

If they're just bent (I can't tell for sure because the picture is a bit blurry) I would recommend using something like a small flathead screwdriver and gently attempting to straighten them. If you get it close enough, the cable should mate to the connector without much issue. Those look like they're just contacts and not pins so they don't need to be perfectly straight. According to what I've read those pins are for display power so they're pretty important.

The radiator fan relay is located within the engine compartment fuse box. This is under the hood on the driver's side. I'm not sure which year car you have so I can't tell you for sure, but in your owner's manual (and possibly on the fuse box itself) you should be able to figure out what relay corresponds to your radiator fan. You should be able to find a suitable replacement at any auto parts store or website.

Check in the engine compartment fuse box, it should be near the battery under the hood. The cover should be pretty easy to remove. The fuel pump should be connected through a fuse in slot 48. If that fuse looks good, then you may want to check the fuel pump relay (also inside the engine compartment fuse box). The fuel pump relay is #18 in the fuse box. Start with the car off, and have somebody else put the key in the cars ignition and attempt to start the car while you listen to the relay. If you can hear this relay make a "clicking" noise as the car attempts to start, then it is working properly. If this doesn't solve the problem, make sure that the engine is actually turning when you attempt to start it. If you can hear the starter motor turning but the engine isn't turning (look at the belt) then the starter may not be engaging (in your car I believe this means that you must replace the whole starter). You can remove and test your starter to confirm whether or not the solenoid is engaging the starter. Asid...

You said click works, but can you also move the mouse pointer around with one finger? If so, test to see if other multitouch gestures work. If any of them work you can rule out the possibility of a hardware problem. There could also be an issue with Mac OS X settings that is causing multitouch not to work properly. If you have OS X install media (or the ability to create a bootable USB drive), boot the computer off of that and see if the gestures work in the OS X installer.

I can't tell for sure, but after looking at pictures of the back of the unit, it looks like the fuse may be inside of the power jack. If the jack looks like this up-close, you may be able to pop off a small cover to change it.

For the wifi issue: you may want to follow this guide to locate the wifi antenna, and clean/re-seat its connection to the motherboard. It isn't incredibly likely that this will fix the problem (because toggling wifi seems to fix it also), but if you're opening the phone it may be worth investigating. For the digitizer issue: you mentioned that the problem goes away with pressure applied to the top right corner. Since that area is where all of the display cables connect to the logic board, you may want to open the phone, re-seat those cables and see if the problem still persists.

I'd be willing to bet that that component isn't what went bad in your machine. Before attempting a risky and difficult repair on a board that (for the most part) probably works, look into replacing the top case or repairing the keyboard. You shouldn't have too much difficulty popping the shift key off, just remember not to use excessive force, that's your worst enemy when working with these things. From there you can remove the key mechanism and clean things out. That may be all it takes. If that doesn't work, you can also replace the top case, iFixit sells it here and you could also probably find it from other vendors as well, probably without the same warranties though. As a side note, I've never worked on these machines but it may be possible to separate the keyboard from the top case and replace just that. It would definitely be cheaper but someone with more experience might be able to give some better insight than myself. It looks like just the keyboard assembly is available on eBay if you want to pursue...

Uggghhhh, Microsoft is still using X-Clamps. Didn't they learn anything from the original 360?

Could it really be? Just a little bit of user-serviceability?

Quote from Tom:

Yup, you're right. Didn't cross-check everything. Still wonder why the FCC version gets that chip and connector populated if they didn't put a cam on theirs. It could be just a debug port for non-production versions.

When they originally flash the firmware to the device, they have to put it in somewhere :)

ONYX might be the codename for the processor, or the codename of the GSM-based (AT&T) version of the phone.

Quote from Edis0n:

Except for the WiFi chip, all others are from 2007 (or before), so Apple had this going on for some time.

Probably not, these chips were most likelly used in older iPods, and provide legacy support (Since AAC Encoding hasn't changed much i the past 5-7 years) and the touch drivers were most likelly for the older iPods and iPhones, with slightly different instructions.

What interface does the drive use? SATA, or a proprietary connection?

Quote from Threedays:

No modchip now success. this machine will be a flop unless someone finds a means to mod it.

There really isn't much modding that can be done, it supports ripping games to the hard drive, it can browse the internet, the only reason I can see to mod it, would be to restore playability for PS2/PS1 games.

Since it has it's own power supply, will it still charge when connected to a USB port on a PC(Or a Mac)?

This is a great teardown/guide! you should email one of the iFixit staff members and have them post it so the whole community can see it!

Quote from Kyle Wiens:

Most of the photos were inverted; we're fixing them all now and will be uploading soon.

This is great, I can't wait for the full teardown tommorow!