jayeff

Hi, I think that the fuse is shown best in the 4th image from the bottom. Here’s a zoomed in image of what I think is the fuse. (click on image to enlarge for better viewing) It says 1A (Ampere) 135° C and also has a designation of F5001 (F=Fuse). There is no mention of the fuse’s voltage rating but it is the current rating that matters as long as the voltage rating is the same or higher than the supply voltage. If it is a fuse then if you have an Ohmmeter you can check if it is OK or not. A good test = short circuit. If it is blown then finding a replacement may be hard as it says on the board risk of fire, replace only with same type and rating of fuse.

Hi @pdet , I don’t know whether or not it is cheaply repairable as far as parts go but here’s the maintenance and service guide for a HP Pavilion 15-eh0000 series laptop, which may help. It gives information on what tools are requires to disassemble the laptop and the necessary pre-requisite steps and procedures to remove all the individual components. It also has an illustrated parts list so that if a replacement part is required you can search online using the part number only to find suppliers and you will know that it is the correct one.

Hi @Keith Turner, That late in the cycle I’m wondering if there is a problem with the heater. It may be the start of the drying cycle and I think that the heater is turned on to ensure good drying, but I may be wrong about this. ;-) It could also be a faulty thermistor (or sensor), part #25 pump and motor parts diagram but this is less likely I think as it monitors the water temp at the start of the wash as well. But maybe still worth checking. The tech sheet gives the details - see Note 2 diagnostic cycle time chart notes Try running the diagnostics using the [документ: Tech Sheet - 8537797 - Rev C] for the dishwasher and see if you get any error codes. (see p.2 bottom right side) Hopefully this may be of some help.

Hi @leej Seems as though the recovery partition may have been corrupted as well as the boot partition. Try using a Win 10 recovery USB and see if that fixes it. A Win 10 recovery drive can be created from any known working Win 10 computer. All you need is a 8GB USB flashdrive and 40-60 minutes of time. In the host computer go to Control Panel > Recovery > Create a recovery drive and follow the prompts. To get to Control Panel, type Control Panel in the Windows search box on the desktop and then click on the app that appears. When you have the USB recovery drive, start the laptop and get into BIOS. You didn’t state the model number so you may have to check how to get into BIOS for your model. When in BIOS change the Boot order to USB as the first boot option and also enable Legacy USB or CSM (not sure what you will have), save the changes, plug in the USB into the laptop and restart the laptop. It should boot from the USB drive into the Windows Recovery Environment menus. Once there go to Troubleshoot >...

Hi @tom97 , That’s a MOV (metal oxide varister) or surge suppressor if you like. (the board designation for the component is MOV1). It protects the equipment from overcurrent situations by shunting it away, but if you apply too much voltage (assume you plugged 240V into it) then it will blow as this is too much The hard part will be to get the correct value replacement. Maybe try very gently to see if there are any component markings left on the side of the MOV closest to the C14 capacitor that it is next to. Do not touch it with your fingers as sometimes they rub off easily. If there is nothing left then here’s a link that may help to get you out of trouble. You could try the MOVs as suggested and see how it goes. Hopefully there is nothing else amiss and it is only the MOV that failed It’s just a matter of unsoldering and removing the old and soldering in the new. They are not polarity dependent. The worst that could happen is that it blows again but I assume that you will have the coffee maker connected...

@rjr0877 You didn't say what was getting too warm, the freezer compartment, the refrigerator compartment or both. Also which thermostat did you change? If you haven't already done so check that the bi-metal defrost thermostat, part #6 airflow parts diagram is OK Here’s a video that shows how to test it.

Hi @plot12 , Try searching for ALR8638 to get suppliers that suit you. Though searching online seems to indicate that a new complete locking fuel cap may be the cheaper option

Hi, Some checks to try and isolate what and where the problem may be: Can you view the settings menus in the camera's LCD screen, you didn’t say? If you can’t see the settings menus try taking a few pictures and then downloading them to a computer. I realize that you cannot “see” what your taking. If the pictures are OK when viewed on the computer then there is a problem with the camera’s LCD screen, its connection to the motherboard, the motherboard or all three possibilities. With the camera on try shining a torch at an angle close to the camera’s LCD screen and check if you can detect any images at all. If you can see images in the LCD screen, then there is a backlight problem with the screen. Again the problems could be the same as listed above but you are one step closer if the problem is on the motherboard and not a faulty LCD screen or its cable connection. If the pictures are just black images then there may also be a problem with the camera’s CCD image sensor as well....

Hi, Things to try and see if they resolve the problem. i). Wipe the cache partition and check if it now works OK. ii). Start the phone in safe mode and check. If it works OK in safe mode, then a downloaded app is the cause of the problem. The tricky part is finding out which one. You will need to uninstall each downloaded app, one by one and test the phone in normal mode between each uninstall to see if it works OK. When it does then the last downloaded app that was uninstalled is the culprit. A downloaded app is one that you downloaded and installed on the phone and didn’t come pre-installed with the phone.

Hi @skaur , I don’t know what the cost would be, you would need to contact a reputable, professional laptop repair service and ask them. If you wish to try repairing it yourself then here’s the maintenance and service guide for the laptop. Go to p.119 to view the necessary pre-requisite steps and then the procedure to remove the display assembly. It is during this procedure that the hinges can be accessed. On p.38 Item #5 you will find the part numbers for the different types of hinges available, depending on the different types of LCD panels that can be used in the laptop. Search online using the appropriate part number only to get results for suppliers of the part.

The 3rd wire from a battery is usually connected to a thermistor attached to the battery which signals the temperature (resistance value changes with temp) to the battery management circuit in the motherboard.

Charging will be halted to if it got too hot before being fully charged, which may create problems e.g. a fire

If leaving the 3rd wire disconnected, the battery should not be left unsupervised whilst it is charging

Hi @captainsnowball ,

FYI

voilà French exclamation - meaning “There it is!” or “There you are!”

The “red thing” in Step 3 is most probably an IR filter, to filter out visible light to improve IR operation